Any opinions on paint?

[jmorrical]

I'll resurrect this thread.

Soon I will be ready to paint. So far I plan using PPG Delfleet Evolution single stage paint. There is a local PPG automotive so it's a good option for me. My scheme is the CubCrafters yellow on silver that I've seen in promotional photos like the one below.

IMG_1839.JPG

Today I had a discussion with Steve Michael from Chattanooga, TN who is part of the kit support team. He offered a suggestion that I consider clear coat over the Poly Spray gray. It's a good color for me I guess, but never thought of that as an option. Jon Delamater told me the rebranded PPG Delfleet Evolution code for the yellow in this photo is 80502 and the silver is either FDGH 35027 PPG Polyurethane or Polytone Nevada Silver. PPG says the FDGH 35027 is a metallic gray.

I have talked to PPG and have estimates for paint, but haven't seen the actual color yet.

My Poly Spray has a good smooth finish, but I don't know that it's ready for clear coat. How do I tell? Should I clear coat it do I need to lightly sand before clear coating this finish. I'm not a painter, but have learned lots in my booth using my HVLP with the Poly Brush and Spray. I'm watching lots of YouTube on painting clear coat especially.

Any advice?

[Daveembry]

Jim,

I’ll jump in here but clearly saying that I’M NOT A PAINTER EITHER but I have painted almost 5 CC now and spent probably hundreds of hours learning. I’ll just pass on what I have learned for what it’s worth.

One thing I have commonly heard and believe is that clear coat should not be used on fabric as it is just not flexible enough not to crack, especially in places like around the grab handle at the rear of the fuselage. One CC dealer (who has done several planes in basecoat/clear coat) told me every single one of them cracked.

With fabric there were 2 concerns that are not concerns of metal airplanes. 1) fabric moves so you need flexibility in the paint 2). Poly Fiber products (poly tack; poly brush; poly spray; poly tone paint) “gas off” .....and for a long period of time. You should always hold off painting a topcoat polyurethane (or clear) over the poly spray for a week or so to let it gas off.

Now, as the reducers, etc. in the products gas off, they will gas off both sides of the fabric, both inside and outside the part. Polyurethane paints or a clear coat will completely seal off that outside covering leaving it to try and gas off only to the inside.

Poly Tone paints do not do that and since it’s just another poly fiber product, it can still gas off through it but most people aren’t using it any more because everyone wants “shiny” airplanes now and poly tone is a dull, matt finish. To get glossy, that is the polyurethane or clear coat that does that.....and again that is a barrier to gassing off.

A “basecoat/clearcoat” process is what’s most commonly used on metal surface like your car and metal airplanes. The basecoat is the color coat and is not shiny but dull. You then can spay on multiple clear coats over that to get the degree of shiny you want. But.....herein is the problem.

Now, my understanding is that CC at one time painted 5 airplanes with a basecoat/clearcoat. Then several (or all of them, I’m not sure) started to mold and the color to look nasty under the clearcoat. What happens is that when you spray the color basecoat over the poly spray, the poly fiber products will continue to gas off and go through that basecoat. Then when you spray the clear coat over that basecoat, you seal that side of the airplane and now that colorcoat is trapped and is gassed off into from the poly products as they continue to gas.

I have heard that a way to prevent that from happening is to first spray a clearcoat over the poly spray coat; then the color coat/basecoat over the clearcoat and then clearcoat again over the basecoat as before. This first clear coat over the poly spray will stop it rom gassing off into the colorcoat and causing it to have problems.

Also, you notice CC only recommends putting 2 total coats of poly spray and not 3 “cross coats” (6 total coats) as Poly Fiber says to. Well the reason is that using the poly Tone paints as poly fiber does, it has no UV protectors in them like the polyurethane paints like we are using from PPG does. So 2 coats of the poly spray under the polyurethane is enough.

So, there is what I have learned. It sounds like what Steve said of putting the clear coat over the poly spray should work fine except possible for the cracking potential problem. Steve should know.....and perhaps they have begun putting more flexor agents into the clear coats now so much flexing plastic on todays autos?

You can also just spray the PPG paint that Jon gave you and have color and poly/UV protection.

Also, I have always purchased all my paints from CC and not directly from PPG. I don’t know the pricing difference if any. I just like keeping the least number of people involved with a project. If I have a problem, I make 1 phone call to 1 place and CC has always been great at handling any problems.

Would love to hear any others experiences using basecoat/clearcoat applications.

I'll resurrect this thread.

Soon I will be ready to paint. So far I plan using PPG Delfleet Evolution single stage paint. There is a local PPG automotive so it's a good option for me. My scheme is the CubCrafters yellow on silver that I've seen in promotional photos like the one below.

IMG_1839.JPG

Today I had a discussion with Steve Michael from Chattanooga, TN who is part of the kit support team. He offered a suggestion that I consider clear coat over the Poly Spray gray. It's a good color for me I guess, but never thought of that as an option. Jon Delamater told me the rebranded PPG Delfleet Evolution code for the yellow in this photo is 80502 and the silver is either FDGH 35027 PPG Polyurethane or Polytone Nevada Silver. PPG says the FDGH 35027 is a metallic gray.

I have talked to PPG and have estimates for paint, but haven't seen the actual color yet.

My Poly Spray has a good smooth finish, but I don't know that it's ready for clear coat. How do I tell? Should I clear coat it do I need to lightly sand before clear coating this finish. I'm not a painter, but have learned lots in my booth using my HVLP with the Poly Brush and Spray. I'm watching lots of YouTube on painting clear coat especially.

Any advice?

[Gary H]

Jim,
Dave is right, just stick with what we know works best. If you use the poly system,,,,stick with it. If you want a shinny finish use aero-thane. It’s easy to use, flows great and,,,,,,,,it’s aircraft paint for fabric. I’ve painted 4 fabric airplanes,, one with poly tone and three with aero-thane. I like aero-thane better.
Good Luck.
gary
FBDDE078-A695-48B2-BBF2-3CAD31183296.jpg

[Rick Bosshardt]

Nice looking plane, Gary!

[jhonmichal333]

How long did take you to paint the plane Gary? I find commercial style paints and primers last a long time such as this corrosion inhibiting primer BR6747-1. It contains no VOCs which is helpful.

[jhonmichal333]

.....

[Gary H]

The prep work is what takes the time. Squirting color on is easy. Take your time, get it right. Remember: Paint covers nothing, it only enhances the surface in which you’ve prepared. Take that to heart.