Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Pull Rivet "Tip"

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Hayesville, NC
    Posts
    123

    Default Pull Rivet "Tip"

    I meant to post this earlier, when I started on my first wing. Those that are just starting, or still building their wings may get some value (or you may just tell me that everyone knew this but me).

    When I started riveting the center ribs on, I just wasn't happy with how the tops of the rivets just didn't pull up tight against the ribs. No matter how hard I pushed, the manual rivet puller, or my big air puller just couldn't get into the tight fitting area. So, I remembered an EAA video where they were using a small wedge to put between the puller and the rivet. I made my own, except it is not a tiny wedge, rather a more substantial piece of steel that holds the rivet straight, holds the rib tight against the spar, and lets you pull the rivet from the side of the rib where you have plenty of room. Below is a picture for any that want to build their own.

    For mine, I used 1/2" square cold roll steel that I had laying around (this could be thinner) that has been milled on the top at a 12 degree angle, and a hole to go over the rivet stem. The bottom held against the rivet is flat to hold it tight. The end is rounded and 1/4" thick. You can grind or use a cutoff wheel to make the top angle if you don't have access to a milling machine.

    Tony

    DSC_0045.jpg

  2. #2
    Administrator Pete D's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Yakima, WA
    Posts
    1,158

    Default Re: Pull Rivet "Tip"

    Very nice! I too have seen the EAA video or may have seen this technique in a magazine or something, but have never had the need to try it. Thanks for the reminder, maybe someday I'll use this on my own Carbon Cub wings :-)

    Pete D.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Yakima, Washington
    Posts
    157

    Default Re: Pull Rivet "Tip"

    Tony

    This is a really good tip. Would you take a picture of just your spacer block and post it. At the factory we use an offset air puller, but they are pretty expensive. This seems like a good way to achieve the same result.

    Thanks
    Mitch

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Hayesville, NC
    Posts
    123

    Red face Re: Pull Rivet "Tip"

    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch View Post
    Would you take a picture of just your spacer block and post it. At the factory we use an offset air puller, but they are pretty expensive. This seems like a good way to achieve the same result.
    Mitch,
    Absolutely, I will take some more pictures this weekend, and update the post. I just couldn't justify the expense of the 781 head to pull the few rivets for two wings. Although it may be slower, I can use the straight pull head and get the same results. I do need to correct the type of steel in my original post, which is hot rolled in the picture as identified by the scale still on it. I made a couple of these, one from cold roll, and didn't pay attention which was in the picture. It really doesn't matter which steel you use - whatever scrap you have should work.

    Pete,
    I'm looking forward to your posts on your wings.

    Tony

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Hayesville, NC
    Posts
    123

    Default Re: Pull Rivet "Tip"

    Here's an update with close up pictures of the tool:

    DSC_0005_005.jpgDSC_0006_006.jpgDSC_0007_007.jpgDSC_0008_008.jpgDSC_0009_009.jpg
    The rivet stem gets bent over so that the rivet puller is at an angle away from the rib for those tight areas. The stock I used was 1/2" square, 1/4 to 3/8" thick before you mill/grind the angle is plenty heavy for this purpose. The angle that I used was 12 degrees, but I think anywhere from 10-15 would be ok.

    Tony

  6. #6
    Administrator Pete D's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Yakima, WA
    Posts
    1,158

    Default Re: Pull Rivet "Tip"

    Thanks for the detail photos. So simple, but works so well!

    Pete D.

  7. #7
    Member rlinford's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    42

    Default Re: Pull Rivet "Tip"

    Built one of these and it worked great for the ribs, now I'm trying to pull the upper and lower cherry max rivets in the inner and outer alieron brackets. The Marson hand puller wont sit flat on 3 out of 4 of the rivets so the stem just snaps off early before the rivet is set. It seems like this tool is so thick that when I try to use it on the cherry max rivets the gun wont grip the top of the rivet stem. Any ideas? After three attempts and three drilled out rivets I'm crying uncle. The offset rivet gun shown in the picture would sure be nice.....

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Yakima, Washington
    Posts
    157

    Default Re: Pull Rivet "Tip"

    Rob

    Modify your rivet puller a bit and make it as thin as you can. Also you need to make sure the hole is the right diameter, or the cherry max rivet won't pull correctly. The size needs to be .126 -.001 + .003. A number 30 drill bit will be sufficent. You shouldn't need to use the shim

    Thanks
    Mitch

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Hayesville, NC
    Posts
    123

    Default Re: Pull Rivet "Tip"

    you can grind the tool as thin as you need to get a bite on the rivet stem. i used this on the ss and cherrymax rivets, although i used a pneumatic puller with a straight head and not the marson hand riveter. the offset head was almost as expensive as the pneumatic riveter is why i made this tool. also make sure the hole the stem comes through is plenty big and smooth so it doesn't create drag and break early. bend the stem over with needle nose pliers before you start.

    tony

  10. #10
    Member rlinford's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    42

    Default Re: Pull Rivet "Tip"

    Thanks for the tips but still no good. Ground the shim down to get a bite, countersunk the hole in the shim a bit to make it easier on the stem, pre-bent the stem a little but they are still snaping prematurly. (3 more down). Double checked the hole too Mitch and they are #30.

    Ever seen a bad batch of rivets? It's like the stems are overly weak. They are snapping much sooner than the others I have set. The others took quite a bit of force and these are pretty easy to pop.

    I'll drill these out and order some new ones from Aircraft Spruce, hopefully it's just some defective rivets.photo.JPG

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •