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Thread: General Electronics & Avionics

  1. #11
    Senior Member jmorrical's Avatar
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    Default Re: General Electronics & Avionics

    Well, I bent the small positioning tab on the C/Bs without damage so I've moved on.

    I'm looking for a definitive guide for best practices for general electrical system installation. I've looked briefly thru the FAA's 8083-30a Airframe and Powerplant Mechanics General Handbook and a couple Advisory Circulars they've published, but don't find answers.

    Since I am wiring power distribution I wonder where I should install these white rubber electrical terminal nipples like the one in this photo. There was only 1 large and 2 small in my kit. Should they all be covered?

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    Last edited by jmorrical; 12-20-2020 at 07:21 PM.
    Jim Morrical

  2. #12
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    Default Re: General Electronics & Avionics

    I cannot answer your question specifically, but my EX-2 kit came with at lease 10 terminal nipples (both small and large).

    What does the inventory sheet say for quantity. If they are in one of the plastic boxes, the quantity number will be on the description label.

    Just my rule of thumb on usage; high amp wire, close proximity to two poles or fuselage/grounding potential, etc.,..

    I think I counted at lease 7 in this photo (starter solenoid, master solenoid)



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    Dan Arnold
    KEUL

  3. #13
    Administrator Pete D's Avatar
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    Default Re: General Electronics & Avionics

    Quote Originally Posted by jmorrical View Post
    So simply bending the pin over with my pliers won’t break the plastic case?
    No, bending them over 90 degrees won't harm the case of the breaker. I usually use a pair of "duckbill" plier and grab it with the side of the plier. (twist of the wrist) vs the end of the jaws.

    The tab is too long for most of the locations this breaker is used and if a locating hole was placed in the panel adjacent to the mounting hole the tab would protrude through the front of the panel and cause the overlay/placard to not sit flat around the breaker.
    Pete Dougherty
    R & D Shop Manager
    Cub Crafters Inc

  4. #14
    Senior Member jmorrical's Avatar
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    Default Re: General Electronics & Avionics

    My Garmin G3X panel includes a panel mounted Garmin GTR 200 radio. I want to remove it while I install the panel and G3X wire harness. It won't slide out. A hex key thru the face unlocked it just like the one for the remote transponder, but I'm still not able to get the radio to slide forward out of it's mount. I'm assuming it pulls straight out face and all. Is there something else I need to do to free it?

    I do not want to bend the panel, the tray or damage the radio.

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    Jim Morrical

  5. #15
    Senior Member Andy's Avatar
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    Default Re: General Electronics & Avionics

    It should be fairly easy to see the rotation of the latch in the tray slot when looking at the bottom of the mounting tray. If the latch is rotating clear of the slot then the only thing retaining the radio should be the force required to un-mate the connectors.

    There are subtle differences in extracting tray mounted equipment and I don't know any trick for the GTR 200. I could find no installation/removal instructions in the GTR 200 installation manual but there are good drawings of the tray:

    http://static.garmin.com/pumac/190-01553-00_n.pdf

  6. #16
    Administrator Pete D's Avatar
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    Default Re: General Electronics & Avionics

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy View Post
    It should be fairly easy to see the rotation of the latch in the tray slot when looking at the bottom of the mounting tray. If the latch is rotating clear of the slot then the only thing retaining the radio should be the force required to un-mate the connectors.

    There are subtle differences in extracting tray mounted equipment and I don't know any trick for the GTR 200. I could find no installation/removal instructions in the GTR 200 installation manual but there are good drawings of the tray:

    http://static.garmin.com/pumac/190-01553-00_n.pdf

    Andy has it right, you should be able to see the latch at the bottom. Usually unscrewing with the Allen key will push the unit out of the tray far enough to disconnect the pins. I have seen the bottom edge of the hole below the ratio catch on the key sometimes, you may have to rotate the key back and forth to get the legs of the key to clear the lip of the panel below the ratio slot.
    Pete Dougherty
    R & D Shop Manager
    Cub Crafters Inc

  7. #17
    Senior Member Andy's Avatar
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    Default Re: General Electronics & Avionics

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete D View Post
    Usually unscrewing with the Allen key will push the unit out of the tray far enough to disconnect the pins.
    That's a "subtle difference" that I was thinking of. Some rack mounted equipment may be self extracting but some is not. The KX-170B can be severely damaged if the latch screw is forced CCW in an attempt to extract the radio. I just repaired one that had a frequency switch wafer broken when the latch was forced past its CCW stop. (It was an inexpensive eBay purchase not one I broke). On the other hand the MX-170B will allow the screw to come all the way out and drop the latch bar where it jams the radio in the tray.

    I was surprised that the GTR 200 installation manual did not have explicit instructions on how the radio should be extracted from the rack.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Andy's Avatar
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    Default Re: General Electronics & Avionics

    This video confirms the GTR 200 is self extracting:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwA6...annel=SteinAir

  9. #19
    Senior Member jmorrical's Avatar
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    Default Re: General Electronics & Avionics

    Well, thanks for the info here on removing the GTR-200. It did not self extract. It took lots of two hand thumb pressure on the back while griping the sides of the tray to force it to start. Even then it didn't slide out except with lots of force. The edges of the radio are scarred up front to back where the tray contacts.

    When I took delivery of the panel I unwrapped it to inventory and wrapped it back up again until now. I didn't notice the front to back scratch on the bottom of the radio. The fact that it wouldn't slide out as expected made me think I was missing some detail. This scratch came from an edge of the formed area where the locking mechanism engages. I wonder if I should file it down where is seems to have made the scratch? Now that it's extracted their are good scratches on the edges where it sides. There is no way you would pull the radio from the front of the panel for maintenance. The lock is an ingenious little thing.

    Expect this is not the norm. Should I just bend sides a little to loosen the frame fit if I can or ask CubCrafters for a replacement?

    Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

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    Jim Morrical

  10. #20
    Senior Member jmorrical's Avatar
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    Default Re: General Electronics & Avionics

    I am building an EX(1) not an EX2/3. I am trying to figure how I should initially position and route the main G3X harness to give the G3X Touch Screen connector enough slack to connect or disconnect it.

    How do I give that plug enough slack to pull the screen out from the panel so I can disconnect it outside the panel OR does the connector just reach the screen installed in the panel and I plug or unplug it by reaching up behind the panel?

    And is this the approach thru the V frame or do I go around aircraft right side of this V structure?

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    Jim Morrical

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