Amps, ADSB and Air.

[Pete Brown]

I just spoke with Mark about this, but will not have time to look at the airplane for a few days likely.

Bruce Catlin asked me to address a couple things on his 45 hr EX2, mainly heat and ADSB. I was able to increase the heat input temp from 90 to 115-120 at the cabin inlet, and addressed numerous cold air inflow points.
Regarding this, it appears to me that the open wingroot area (between panel and skylight is the main source of vacuum sucking air out of the cockpit. As there are intake restrictions from the heat source, volumes of air are sucked in from the tail or any unsealed opening with this pressure differential.

I am going to suggest a full Velcro or snap cover between rear seat storage and aft baggage, to help slow cold air intake down and help suck more hot air in from the front. We need to have airflow to get the heat in, but ideally not from the tail. Has anyone sealed that up, or added foam above the wingroot panels to slow the outflow volume? I’d rather keep the flow going to suck in the heat, but less Overall flow might help as well.

Second issue -
Glenn Symon has this same issue and Mitch was able to walk him through the configs to correct it, but we have not on Bruce’s. With G3X touch and 345 R, we have ADSB out, but no IN or it’s not displaying traffic. I will be checking the rs232 connection but if someone has specific config to verify we are correct that would help.

Third issue -
Alternator is displaying as if running backwards. Not sure if this has been since the build or it is a new issue, but with Engine off the amps are showing a positive 10-13, as if the alternator is charging. When running and no load aside from master and ibbs, amps vary between -3 and 1. Add a load and now -3 to -4. Battery voltage appears to hold steady over 3 hrs. But, pull the field or alt breaker and the amps jump up to a positive 10. (In flight)
So assuming wiring is correct, either there is a tremendous constant load with engine on, a bad battery(?), breaker or alternator is simply whacked. ???? Any thoughts?

thanks,
pb

[Clay Hammond]

When I was keeping a Carbon Cub at ORA over the winters I had two pieces of foam cut to match the the cross section between the top longerons there in cabin and the curved piece above it, filling the void in between. Slight press fit. I used off cuts from the upholstery memory foam bin in Yakima. Worked great and made a dramatic difference. On longer trips I would hang a blanket or sleeping bag from the rear headliner draped down to the floor. Significantly improved the poor cabin heat performance of the older models.

[40m]

When I was keeping a Carbon Cub at ORA over the winters I had two pieces of foam cut to match the the cross section between the top longerons there in cabin and the curved piece above it, filling the void in between. Slight press fit. I used off cuts from the upholstery memory foam bin in Yakima. Worked great and made a dramatic difference. On longer trips I would hang a blanket or sleeping bag from the rear headliner draped down to the floor. Significantly improved the poor cabin heat performance of the older models.

Works wonders in newer models also. But I do wish Jim would get to work on this heat project instead of tempting those gators on the Peace! Chop Chop.

[DRL]

I just spoke with Mark about this, but will not have time to look at the airplane for a few days likely.

Third issue -
Alternator is displaying as if running backwards. Not sure if this has been since the build or it is a new issue, but with Engine off the amps are showing a positive 10-13, as if the alternator is charging. When running and no load aside from master and ibbs, amps vary between -3 and 1. Add a load and now -3 to -4. Battery voltage appears to hold steady over 3 hrs. But, pull the field or alt breaker and the amps jump up to a positive 10. (In flight)
So assuming wiring is correct, either there is a tremendous constant load with engine on, a bad battery(?), breaker or alternator is simply whacked. ???? Any thoughts?

thanks,
pb

The alternator is definitely not running backward, but the EMS sensor from the ammeter shunt may not be installed correctly to provide the EMS with the proper readings. Worse case, it may be the shunt is in the wrong location, but it could be simply a matter of swapping the pins to the sensor inputs at the EMS. I am not familiar with the Garmin setup, we have Dynon's EMS, but this would be a good place to start.