General Cover Questions

[jmorrical]

I am building an EX, not EX2 or EX3. This week I'm tapping tail feathers. I will rivet my wings. The elevators and horizontal stab have been rib laced. My rudder came drilled for rivets so I elected to rivet it. While getting ready for tape I noticed because of the rib design the line of rivets are offset comparing one side to the other.

Do I use one continuous tape top to bottom and balance the difference between both sides? Or do I tape the top and bottom with separate cut tapes in order to keep the rivet line centered in the tapes?

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[Mark Keneston]

I am building an EX, not EX2 or EX3. This week I'm tapping tail feathers. I will rivet my wings. The elevators and horizontal stab have been rib laced. My rudder came drilled for rivets so I elected to rivet it. While getting ready for tape I noticed because of the rib design the line of rivets are offset comparing one side to the other.

Do I use one continuous tape top to bottom and balance the difference between both sides? Or do I tape the top and bottom with separate cut tapes in order to keep the rivet line centered in the tapes?

05qYURhwTzqsCWvo00joEA.jpg

Here we go Jim. There are many ways to do this as you will hear and see. Our manual points to using different tapes top and bottom or rather seperate and not a continuous tape. The rib tapes go on first and then the long tape along the spar goes on over top the ends of the rib tapes. Think about how the plane goes thru the air. The long tape helps hold each rib tape down. You cut seperate tapes and try to make them all match. Mine have rounded or arched ends on them rather than straight, flat cut ends. Same with the rudder. Tape the rivets on each side, then run a vertical tape to cover those ends. ANother trick is to dob extra poly brush on each rivet head when you put the tapes down to help avod air bubbles at the rivet. Hope this helps. Dave Embry and Jeepgord are master builders on here and can help a bunch too. Lots of info right here. Just ask. Great people all over here. Thanks Yankee 1

[Mark Keneston]

I am building an EX, not EX2 or EX3. This week I'm tapping tail feathers. I will rivet my wings. The elevators and horizontal stab have been rib laced. My rudder came drilled for rivets so I elected to rivet it. While getting ready for tape I noticed because of the rib design the line of rivets are offset comparing one side to the other.

Do I use one continuous tape top to bottom and balance the difference between both sides? Or do I tape the top and bottom with separate cut tapes in order to keep the rivet line centered in the tapes?

05qYURhwTzqsCWvo00joEA.jpg

Keep rivets centered and use seperate tapes side to side not one continuous. Also the outer edge tape goes on last and over top the rip tape tails. Same with leading edge tape on rudder, it covers rib tapes. Thanks Yankee 1

[Daveembry]

Check out Post 20 & 21 here http://forum.cubcrafters.com/showthr...%93EX3+tips%94. you may have already done that.

Yes, on each side of the tail feathers the rivets are offset a small amount. I personally run 1 piece of tape starting with a straight scissor cut on the tape in the center of the curved (front) tube and wrap it around the round (aft) tube meeting again with a straight cut in the center where you started. The rivets may be slightly off center a bit but pretty much unnoticeable, even if you are looking.

If it bothers you, can can just as easily put a separate piece on each side with the rivets perfectly centered. Just do the same thing and use a straight scissor cut on both end of each tape in the center of each tube. There will be a tape over all these ends and using straight cut scissors, you can not see the ends under the tapes, so it doesn’t matter if they are off a little.

Just whatever suits your fancy. Do note on my posts thought the way the tapes are done on the rudder as the manuals were wrong and the new manuals didn’t correct the cover manual I don’t think.

I am building an EX, not EX2 or EX3. This week I'm tapping tail feathers. I will rivet my wings. The elevators and horizontal stab have been rib laced. My rudder came drilled for rivets so I elected to rivet it. While getting ready for tape I noticed because of the rib design the line of rivets are offset comparing one side to the other.

Do I use one continuous tape top to bottom and balance the difference between both sides? Or do I tape the top and bottom with separate cut tapes in order to keep the rivet line centered in the tapes?

05qYURhwTzqsCWvo00joEA.jpg

[jmorrical]

I'm PolyBrushing the fuselage for tapes, inspection rings, etc. The tail feathers went just fine, but now that I'm on the fuselage I'm seeing lots of little bubbles in first and second coats. In south east Texas we see 60% humidity on a good day and 85% on most others along with temperature ranging from 75-95*F. I go early morning when temps are around 80-85*F.

My first thought was to switch from R 65-75 to FF-8500 PolyFiber Reducer. PolyFiber says FF-8500 is recommended for temps above 85*F and warm humid weather. $150 later I don't see any difference. Working time isn't any better either.

I'm puzzled.


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[Daveembry]

I’ve found that it’s just when I’m putting it on too thick that it does that. Try not having your brush so wet. You photo shows it waaaay too wet. It shouldn’t drip off your brush at all.

I'm PolyBrushing the fuselage for tapes, inspection rings, etc. The tail feathers went just fine, but now that I'm on the fuselage I'm seeing lots of little bubbles in first and second coats. In south east Texas we see 60% humidity on a good day and 85% on most others along with temperature ranging from 75-95*F. I go early morning when temps are around 80-85*F.

My first thought was to switch from R 65-75 to FF-8500 PolyFiber Reducer. PolyFiber says FF-8500 is recommended for temps above 85*F and warm humid weather. $150 later I don't see any difference. Working time isn't any better either.

I'm puzzled.


450347C8-AEE9-4F38-8C91-B52F85E445A8.jpg

[jmorrical]

I’m working on the patch for the fuel drain bottom of my EX. I got two patches with the same part number called out in the Cover Manual. SC15205-003 - one is not quite 4” and the other not quite 5”. Can’t figure the intent and the figure in the manual doesn’t show enough detail. Do both go down in some order for some extra protection or pick one?

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[Daveembry]

Looks like a goof up from the factory. Just use 1 and just make it fit over the grommet with some space around the outside of the grommet like the other grommets. Not a big deal or critical.

I’m working on the patch for the fuel drain bottom of my EX. I got two patches with the same part number called out in the Cover Manual. SC15205-003 - one is not quite 4” and the other not quite 5”. Can’t figure the intent and the figure in the manual doesn’t show enough detail. Do both go down in some order for some extra protection or pick one?

5D3FF4D8-14B5-4E9D-A2D5-7B1DEB531E54.jpg

[jmorrical]

There were clear cautions to glue these areas well with Poly-Tak as fabric was put down. Now that I’m heading to paint soon how much fabric on the strut attach and stabilizer brace wire fitting and should I cut back? Or none?

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[Mark Keneston]

There were clear cautions to glue these areas well with Poly-Tak as fabric was put down. Now that I’m heading to paint soon how much fabric on the strut attach and stabilizer brace wire fitting and should I cut back? Or none?

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no need to cut it back at all. Paint it up and then use a dreamer and wire wheel to clean off where strut forks slide on. It’s necessary to ream those holes after paint and before the gear goes on. Protect your finished paint with cardboard and tape when teaming and installing struts. Roll on ! MK