<Archive Thread> Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

[Daveembry]

FUSELAGE - Finishing Up

Remember back when we were installing the floorboard and we trimmed the front of the heat tunnel? Well now is a good time to check that out again as well with the actual firewall in place. I used the long straightedge remember to check and trim a lot of it off but you can see here it needs more trimming at the top of the round tunnel so the rest of the firewall will sit flush along the bottom as you can see. Just mark it now and trim it more when you remove the boot cowl.


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You can see in the photo how the floorboard is not flush with the firewall there? A pretty good gap on the right side of the heat tunnel and a little on the left as well. It's just because the top of it is hitting the firewall. Trim until it all fits flush.

I now use a BLACK RTV silicone (JB WELD) here and on the engine baffles instead of the red. It looks MUCH nicer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BWZ1W3A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think installing the tunnel is pretty well covered in the video and manual so I won't go over that.

I will now go over every 1/2" of the fuse built looking at all the nuts, bolts, rivets, etc and be sure they are all torqued (and torque sealed unless castellated nuts), rivet installed and correct, wiring, etc etc. The last thing I do is to run back through every page of the manual AGAIN! (I know....we are all sick of manuals by this point). This is a checklist to be sure you have done everything.

Fuselage finished! Next we will cover it.

I have 67 hours and 15 minutes in the fuse build and a total of 186 hours up to this post as you've seen in the posts (wings built and covered; fuse built and tail feathers covered)


COVERING THE FUSELAGE

i have 5 videos on COVERING THE FUSELAGE and several on installing the grommets and patches. Here are some links:

PART 1: https://youtu.be/2MMnNW5cvfs. The belly fabric.
PART 2: https://youtu.be/fYKjhSSrZSE belly fabric after first shrink
PART 3: https://youtu.be/Z7IjrBBQIg8. Main fabric install
PART 4: https://youtu.be/kjbrwHu5XLM. First shrink and details on covering the baggage door frame and windows
PART 5: https://youtu.be/9B2nkugesU4. Grommets and poly brushing patches.
FUSELAGE COVER TAPES AND PATCHES - PART 1 https://youtu.be/oWKlcViX3IA
PART 2: https://youtu.be/6vJ6877ahwI
PART 3: https://youtu.be/hmsxvbR94uk

The manual details getting the fuselage all prepped for paint. Seems easy but it took me over 4 hours to do this. It took over 3 rolls of 2" masking tape. Try to put the paper everywhere you can and try not to put the masking tape directly onto any tubes, etc. if you can avoid it. You'll be glad later when you have to remove all this!

It's a little different actually for us because at the factory they install the electronics and wiring hardness before they cover and paint it so they refer to using the blue paper to cover the inside of the fuselage under the panel area but we don't do it that way, so just cover the tubes and inside tubes.

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Another builder recently sent me a picture of him using clear plastic wrap (like Saran Wrap, etc) instead of paper around all the tubes. Sounds like a good idea and I used 1 - 200 sq ft. rule of it on my current built and it works great.

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The last thing I do before starting the cover is to run my hand over every place the fabric will contact on the fuse checking that it is smooth with no rough spots, globs of meth or glue, etc. I run my hand down each stringer (sides, top, bottom), each longeron tube, rudder fin, etc. Some 320 sandpaper works well to take any little things out. Anything on these areas will show up when you put the fabric over it.

Check in your kit and see if you got all your grommets and patches. In the last 2 EX3 Kits I have been missing the extended baggage door patch; the fuel drain patch and 3 of the rectangular patches so before you start, be sure you have those so you can get them sending them while you are covering.

[Daveembry]

COVER FUSELAGE

NOTE: THE COVER MANUAL HAS 1 MISTAKE ON THE LOCATION OF THE DATA PLATE PATCH (aft, right side, small, rectangular patch). It says it’s 15.0” from the aft end of the fuse but it really should be only 14.p” or so. You can see where the data plate goes and the pre drilled holes in the plate it attaches to under the fabric and you will see that if you out it at 15”, it will not be right.

A combination of the Cover Manual and the Fuselage video pretty much covers everything here I think.

MY YOUTUBE VIDEOS ON FUSE COVERING:

PART 1 https://youtu.be/2MMnNW5cvfs
PART 2 https://youtu.be/QeBKhxs6H2o (this one out of order. Covering installing grommets and patches)
PART 2 https://youtu.be/fYKjhSSrZSE
PART 3 https://youtu.be/Z7IjrBBQIg8
PART 4 https://youtu.be/kjbrwHu5XLM
PART 5 https://youtu.be/9B2nkugesU4
PART 6 https://youtu.be/YsdEFhqTgmw

FUSELAGE TAPES AND PATCHES:
PART 1 https://youtu.be/oWKlcViX3IA
PART 2 https://youtu.be/6vJ6877ahwI
PART 3 https://youtu.be/hmsxvbR94uk

There are also a number of videos there covering applying the polybrush and polyspray to the fuse.


NOTE: The Dropbox Cover Manual on pages 77-82 made some changes in the part numbers for the tapes that are different from the normal tape numbers. The "Normal" tape part numbers that will come in the kit are 70200-12 (which is the 2" light tape) and 70200-13 (3" light tape). You will see the tapes in the wings tape figures around page 90 but if you look at the other pages for the tailfeathers and fuse on pages 77-82 you will note the numbers RM9001-005 (which are the 2" tapes) and RM9001-007 (3" tapes). For some reason it appears CC changed the part numbers but Mitch says that's what they refer to and when you actually get the tapes in your kit, it will be the 70200 series of numbers. I also noted even DIFFERENT numbers on Page 80 referring to RM9001-002 and -003 which also appear to be the 2" and 3" tapes. So there are just 2" and 3" tapes to use in these locations.

Also, the fuse figure C2 on Page 78 refers to the "Angled" rectangular grommet SC15208-001. This is a new patch they switched to and are not in the first EX3 kits shipped out. You can just use the regular rectangular patch that is not "angled" if you don't have it. A metal cover goes over this anyway so I'm not sure why they are putting the "angled" part in there. That is the grommet used on the XCub.

As I said in an earlier post about covering and applying the polybrush, etc. applies here too. Keep your polybrush nice and thin as directed but note that it evaporates quickly from your paint container as you use it so only pour a smaller amount into your cup and refill it with fresh, thin material as it begins to thicken. The problem with it getting thick when you are just doing the 2 coats of polybrush, pre-tape areas, tapes and then the coat after the tapes are installed, is that the edges of the material will get too thick. Later you are going to spray and brush in the 1st full coat of polybrush on the parts and it will blend all the edges in IF THEY ARE THIN. If you get them too thick, they will stand out. You can always get a rag with MEK and go around any thick areas and wipe some off so it will blend well.

Let me copy and past CHUCK & RYANS post regarding installing the patch around the baggage door. Good info here. Pay special attention to this because it really stands out later. I actually like to put an extra coat or 2 of polybrush around this patch to really help smooth it around the edges. When you paint, it seems the door (being very dense and smooth carbon fiber), the patch around it and then the regular fuse fabric shows up a bit different.

One thing I found that helped holding the fabric that folds back around to the backside of the baggage door is to first use the iron to iron the bend into the patch/fabric before you use the polybrush to it. Then use your clothespins about 1/2" apart all the way around the baggage door to hold it in place until it dries good.

Extended Baggage Fabric
The fabric around the extended baggage door presents some challenges. Here is what I learned:

1.Apply light weight body filler around the opening to assure an absolutely smooth surface. Any imperfections will show through. I final sanded it with 320 grit paper. A couple of additional applications were needed to make sure any imperfections were addressed, Do NOT prime it. (Details discussed in prior post)

2. Before covering, masking tape was applied parallel to the opening and about an inch to inch and a half away to establish a sharp demarcation line for the Poly Tak. A generous coat was applied on the surface that would contact the cover and left to dry. A second coat was then applied. Don’t forget to remove the masking tape before putting the fabric cover in place.



3. After the fuselage is covered and pre shrunk (avoiding the glued area) to 250 degrees the Poly Tak can be activated with MEK. I used the MEK rather generously to assure good adhesion, and let it dry overnight before proceeding. You can see the color change when the Poly Tak soaks through signaling it is working. There were a few small spots where it did not appear to stick and those were of no concern.



4. Pencil lines were drawn where cuts were to be made to facilitate wrapping the fabric. It must be wrapped into the recessed lip where the door fits, then around and under the back side of the opening. The pencil lines were coated with a thin line of Poly Tak and permitted to dry before cutting with a straight scissors, rather than pinking shears. The Poly Tak prevented fraying.



5. The fabric was first glued to the recess with aid of the hobby iron. After it had set up well, the fabric was glued to the opening. After that the ‘tail’ was cut about a half inch beyond the inside opening with a pinking shear and then glued to the underside of the opening in sections about 4 inches long to make it easier to work with. A section of aluminum was used as a tool to push the fabric in place on the back side of the opening as it dried. This took some time.



6. When finished, the opening was wiped down with MEK to assure a smooth surface, being careful not to use too much or the glue will soften and it will come apart. The final shrink to
350 ^ was done before moving on to the application of the grommet.



7. The grommet was set in place and centered, using the longeron on top and the stringer below as reference points. It was temporarily taped in place and a pencil line drawn around the outside.



8. Two coats of Poly Brush were applied along the outer surface as well as the surfaces around the opening where the fabric would contact, allowing time to dry between coats. A third coat was applied to just the outer surface and the grommet applied.

9. Once dry, cuts were made, making the cuts in different location than the underlying fabric so there would be at least one layer of fabric covering all surfaces. Using the Poly Brush the fabric was glued down. To hold the fabric on the back side of the lip, a short piece of aluminum was used, moving it inward as the Poly Brush set up. This took some time.



10. Finally any bubbles or imperfections were ironed out with the hobby iron set around 180 to 200^. A final coat of Poly Brush was applied. Job done.




Thanks Chuck.


Here are a few pictures of the patches and polybrush on my fuse. It's ready to take to the paint booth and spray and brush 1 coat of polybrush on; then 1 sprayed coat of polybrush and then 2 coats of polyspray. Then let these "gas off" for a week or so before applying your final topcoat of paint.


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NOTE THAT THE SMALL RECTANGULAR PATCH SHOULD GO OVER THE DATA PLATE MOUNTING ATTACHMENT AND THE MANUAL SHOWS IT TO BE 15” FROM THE AFT SIDE AND IT SHOULD BE ONLY 14. YOU CAN LOOK THROUGH THE GABRIC AND SEE THAT THE MANUAL IS WRONG.


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One thing to note on this spar/gear attach patch and fabric is that you will not have room on the spar end to slide over this fitting if you have fabric on it, so be sure it's removed back over the holes going through it.


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You will note that in the manual these tapes along the window go 1-1/2" out leaving 1/2" that gets tucked into the window slot just like you did the fabric. The difference with the fabric portion though was that you were using PolyTak and not just PolyBrush as you are now when installing the tapes. I could never get it to stick well enough with just the polybrush, so I went ahead and used polyTak on the 1/2" portions that I was tucking into the window slots on both sides.


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This is the area where the top 2" tape goes down the top and up the fin. You just have to make this go in 3 pieces. 1 from the front to where it just starts to bend upwards, then 1 down from the top, front of the fin to where it just starts to bend, and then the smallest piece you can get to fit between them. Use lots of polybrush to get the little short one good and wet first (it will bend and flex more). Then when putting polybrush over this joint, put an extra coat or 2 over it and use your iron set to 250 and run over the joints and it will melt together pretty much.


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COVERING THE BOTTOM V TUBES WHERE THE BELLY PAN WILL GO.

You should have pre-glued the tubes there at the belly pan V (if you didn’t, no big deal. See below.) The current manual is good at explaining how to do it (except I don't put on the 1-1/2" tape...no need). When they say to put tak on the inside of the 3/4" tapes, they are talking about just putting some along the inside edge of each side of the tape where you will razor cut the fabric that will wrap around the tube there after you cut it.

I also cut the fabric here and glue it around the tubes in the "V" after the first 250 iron...NOT THE 350 iron. The reason is that at 250 it will get the fabric pretty much in the right place and it probably won't pull the fabric away from the tubes where you have "pre-glued" and activated with MEK. If you iron it to 350, it's a very good change it will pull away from that little bit of tak. So shrink at 250 and then cut the fabric and glue it around the v tubes. Then you can continue to shrink at 350.

Go over everything with the iron and get anything out you didn't catch before. Run over all the edges of the tapes and get them flat (and they will melt into the fabric more) and any bubbles or glue edges still left.

Ready to go paint! 23 hours and 55 minutes for me to cover and install tapes.

[Daveembry]

COVERING TAIL PARTS -

NOTE: BEFORE COVERING THE ELEVATORS BE SURE AND CHECK OUT POST #65 ABOUT MATCH-DRILLING TRIM TABS FIRST.

Back to finishing the cover of the rudder and other pieces of the tail, a little thing I do when putting the polybrush on the parts is to use a couple of 2x4's about 8-10" long and tape some rags on them to make them smooth and then grab a couple of 5 lb weight bags.


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You can put the blocks under the part where it isn't touching any of the areas you will be applying polybrush for the tapes and then put a weight on top of each one to hold the part flat while you put on the polybrush.


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This lets you put a coat on the one side and edges and then flip it over and do the other side.

The rudder gets one of the round patches (SC15205-001) around the light. Cut it in half first and do 1 half at a time.



The center edge was cut with a straight scissors before polybrushing it in place along the center seam.





INSTALLING TAPES AND POLYBRUSH AROUND RIVETS

OK. I made a very short video here showing how I install tapes over rivets with no air bubbles. PolyFiber people and Cubcrafters say it's pretty much impossible but I've found a way that works. So use this over your wing and tail feather rivets when installing the tapes.

Make sure you have nice and fresh (translated....THIN) polybrush that has not thickened up. The trick here is that if you QUICKLY put down the polybrush and then the tapes, you can PUSH out the air bubbles around the rivet heads and the edges of the reinforcement tapes but if you let it get thick or start to dry, the edges of the tapes will stick down so quickly that you can't push the air out.

Thoroughly wet the reinforcement tape and around the rivet heads with LOTS of polybrush and make the fabric around it where the tape will lay very wet as well. Then install the tape down on the rivet heads and then using the side edges of the brush, go down JUST the center where the rivets and reinforcement tapes are and work out the air bubbles before you get the edges stuck down. Then just go over it all evenly. You have to do all this quickly.

[Daveembry]

POSITIVE PRESSURE PAINT BOOTH

OK....so this isn’t about building the EX3 but in the past I have been using a friends paint booth. It was a traditional negative pressure booth that was only 10’ wide and got a bit cramped so I decided to build a positive pressure paint booth in my hangar that was about 14.5’ wide by 22’ in length and 7.5’ tall. It isn't real pretty but it actually works much better than my buddies professional and traditional negative pressure booth because we were always fighting hard to be sure every crack was absolutely sealed airtight because any and all dust would be sucked INTO the booth.

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Because I didn’t want to have to add 220v wires to run an electric compressor, I bought a nice, portable compressor that is 19.5 scfm @ 40psi, which is more than enough. I got it at Harbor Freight for $1150. https://www.harborfreight.com/30-gal...iii-62779.html. I mounted it on a heavy duty wheels and can just push it out of the hangar for the exhaust and sound to be out of the way.

Next I got a roll of heavy duty visqueen from my building supply place (not Home Depot, etc but a builders supply/lumber company has these). It was 32’ wide by 100’ length so it would go up the walls and across the ceiling without having a joint. I only needed about 37’ of the length (7.5’ up the front wall, 22’ down in length and 7.5’ down the other end wall). Since the height was 7.5’ tall and 14.5’ wide, this was 29.5’ in total width leaving a foot or so overlap onto the floor on either side from the 32’ width of visqueen.

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I then put another piece on the floor and overlapped it up the wall about 18” or so and taped it to the side walls. This would keep any fumes, overspray inside the booth so it won’t be pushed out with the positive pressure.

Check out the zippers! You can get these at Lowes in the paint section where all the plastic drop cloths, etc are. They are especially made to attach to plastic work areas and has very strong adhesive that sticks to the plastic. 2 come to a box and are 7' in length so I put them about 7' off the ground and 7' wide to get the parts in and out of the booth.


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Next I put heavy duty cardboard down on top of the visqueen floor. It’s easier to walk on (doesn’t get slippery) and can be tossed out every so often. I taped the joints so I didn’t trip no them.

With positive pressure you don’t have to have very much of a structure (like lots of side walls, ceiling joists, etc) like you have to have on traditional negative pressure systems and since you are PUSHING air INTO the booth instead of sucking it out, it INFLATES a bit and expands making the room actually a little bigger. The BIGGEST thing is that all the air is trying to get OUT of the booth instead of sucking in so any dust goes OUT and does not get sucked in!!


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I used a big Harbor Freight fan that comes on a stand and then just took cardboard boxes around it (a plenum) and cut out holes to place air filters all around. I have 4, 16” x 30” filters on it now but can add even more if I need more air flow (which I don’t). So we are filtering the air before it gets to the fan and into the booth. https://www.harborfreight.com/30-in-...fan-61845.html


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I kept the fan up around 5’ level and also had the exhaust side about the same so the air would travel more across the booth at that level. I later (after the pictures) added some plastic to seal up the sides of the fan on the inside of the booth so it wouldn't suck any air from inside.

On the opposite end I got a cool box that a big a/c unit came in and it made an exhaust chute large enough to slide in a cheap Walmart fan that is sucking air out of the booth and helps draw it out they exhaust. I used flex duct used in a/c house systems to tie into the big box and just run it outside my hangar side door onto the grass. I don’t think you need this exhaust fan but I had it and used it. I know you have to be careful with electrical and paint fumes but I’ve used this fan in the booth before with no probems.


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I got some LED T8 bulb fixtures since they use almost no amps. I have 8 of the 6 bulb fixtures at the ceiling angled downward (4 on each side) and 8 of the 2 bulb fixtures (4 on each side) down on the lower side walls. I then took thin plastic and covered the fixtures and electrical wiring to keep over spray off.


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I can run the regular hangar lights; all 64 T8 LED bulbs; the fan pushing; the fan sucking and play my Bluetooth boom box and all on the 15 amp standard breaker in the hangar.

Works great. Total cost maybe $2,000 including the compressor; fan; air filters, dryers and regulators. Let me know if you have more questions.

[Daveembry]

ELEVATOR COVER

NOTE: If you watch the videos, they show they are putting the seams of these envelopes for the rudder and elevators in the center of the tube. WRONG....... You will see in the COVER MANUAL, Page 15.2 (for elevators) that the seams actually go to ONE SIDE of the tube......the side you won't see. Look at the figures in the manual and you see that and that's the way they are made. The elevator fabric envelopes are labeled right and left.....so the seams will go on the BOTTOM of each one.

I was waiting on the correct fabric covers for the new EX3 elevators as I mentioned way back early on in this thread. The elevators changed a little in the EX3 to allow for fixed, elevator trim tabs that are carbon fiber. They will be riveted to the elevators after final paint but it's much easier to match-drill them to the elevator frame now than later after covering. PLUS, when you go to paint these little trim tabs, you will need some holes to hang them by when you paint.

Here are the figures related to it:

NOTE: Dec, 2022. Note that the current Finish Manual (9/20/2022), Page 15.1; Section 2-15 "Elevator Trim Tab Installation" states that elevators ordered in 2021 or earlier, will have the below sized holes pre-drilled and use the larger cherrymax rivets.

If you get the newer elevators, note that they will have smaller holes and use the AN530-4R4 screws instead of the cherrymax rivets shown in these drawing. Refer to this section of the manual to clarify which you have.


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First get the XC81031-001 trim tab that will go on the LEFT elevator. The left elevator will be the one with the screw tab on the horn facing UP and the outboard end of the elevator on your left. The trim tab mounting tabs on the frame will be UP.


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Get a few clamps and first measure .635 from the inboard edge of the trim tab and then draw another line 1.8" parallel with the leading edge of the trim tab. This line you will line up with the aft edge of the elevator and that .635 measurement will be where the first mounting tab should be on the elevator. The aft edge of the trim tab should slant UPWARDS from the aft edge of the elevator.


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Check the hole locations after clamping and if OK, drill with a #30. Deburr the holes and that's it. They will be riveted to the elevator with a piece of UHMW tape (the clear tape you used on the fuse where the cables might rub the tubes) between the pieces on final assembly.


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(Note how the trim tab faces upwards if you have the correct trim tab on the correct elevator)

[Dan L]

That looks nicely done Dave and a smart idea.

i wonder though why elevator trim tabs would be needed with a trimmable stabilizer? That seems like the old belt plus suspenders reasoning? Without a compelling need I’m thinking I’d leave them off if it were mine.

[Daveembry]

Im not sure Dan. I know there was some thought and effort put into it because they redesigned the elevators themselves in that the EX3 elevators are squared off at the aft, onboard areas and the trim tabs are added to that area and pitch upwards.

Mitch said engineering redesigned then to improve airflow. Maybe to counter the more forward cg due to the increased weight of the prop and governor? The EX3 has to have the 3x3 gear due to this as well. But I don’t really know for sure? I’ll see if I can find out more specifics.

That looks nicely done Dave and a smart idea.

i wonder though why elevator trim tabs would be needed with a trimmable stabilizer? That seems like the old belt plus suspenders reasoning? Without a compelling need I’m thinking I’d leave them off if it were mine.

[Daveembry]

FLAP HANDLE ASSEMBLY

For one of my Youtube videos on this assembly, go to this link: https://youtu.be/FN_OgUtCrIo

Go to the ASSEMBLIES MANUAL, Page 2.1 for figures and instructions. The parts are listed on and in your Finish Kit parts lists, SKP 1.

When pulling parts note that the 2 pins used to secure the handle in Assembly Manual, Fig. AM1 is listed as MS16562-225. That is the "alternate" number on your Tote part list. The primary number is MS16562225 which is Tote 1 in my totes.

Be SURE and ream out the 2 holes in the flap push rod attachment (1 on each side) with a 1/4" bit. These will take an AN4-7 bolt on each side. If there is powder coat in the holes and you don’t clear it now, it’s almost impossible after it’s all installed. I am just going to jump ahead to the flap installation section of the FINISH MANUAL Page 12.1; FN1-13 and install the hardware that goes into these 2 holes now because they are hard to get to later when we install the flaps.

Also put a little white grease on the bolt shoulders where they will pivot.


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Go to the FINISH MANUAL, Page 12.2; FN1-13. I like to go ahead and attach the fork fittings MS21252C5LS now as it's much easier than having to do it after it being on the fuse. Note that the figure calls for using AN416 washers on the inside of the fork end turnbuckles but you will have to use 1 AN416L (half washers) and 1 AN416 to make it work. The 416's on both sides are too thick and won't fit. Note that the AN316-4L nuts on the ends of the forks screw on COUNTER CLOCKWISE. This is MUCH EASIER to do now than having to do it later when installing the flaps and the flap rods. There is very little area to work on getting these all installed later.

When the manual says to bend the rod, do it by turning the flap handle sideways and then just bend the rod to go down the center of the flap handle. It's hard to see in the manual and photos, but the 90 degree bend in the rod (the bend at the very left end of the rod in this photo) inside towards the center of the flap fitting when looking from the where the front of the plane would be. The easiest way to be sure it's right is to go ahead and install the spring, pawl and trigger and then you can see how it bends. You have to bend it in 2 directions. Photo 004 does not look right for the rod. It looks like the angled tip is pointing up and it should actually be pointed to the left and the round connector on the bottom end of the rod should be standing on end, sideways...and not lying flat.

Grease the pins in the trigger and pawl and any other parts that might rub. After you install the pins in both of these, spray some lubricant up into the flap handle on both ends until it works smooth.

On this one I just couldn’t get the cap on the chromed flap handle to start with the plastic hammer so I finally had to take my Dremel tool with sanding drum on it and sand down the inside of the flap handle a little to get it started and then it takes a pretty good pounding with the plastic mallet to get it to seat all the way. Just be sure the opposite end is sitting on a piece of wood when you strike it with the hammer. Don’t forget the loctite 680. That is a a "retaining compound" and is green, not red as in the photo (but I don’t think it will ever come off even without it!!)


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Lining up the holes for the pins in the pretty, chromed flap handle can be tough. First spray on a bit of Amoral to help it slide and then I got it started and then GENTLY put a big vice grip with lots of paper towels in the jaws, onto the very end of the handle where the knob is and then gently worked it back and forth until I could take a small drill bit (#35) through the holes to line then up perfectly. Then take a hard, metal hammer to drive in the pins. Be sure the opposite end of the handle is on some soft wood so it won’t get damaged when you hammer on it.

Also, once you start the pins on one side and drive them almost through, turn it over and using an awl or pick, align the end of the pin with the hole before driving it through all the way.

Note that I am NOT using the drill bit to DRILL through the holes....only to use to line up the holes. A pick works just as well. I use the bare, uncut ends of the drill bit. It helps to show you how centered the holes are in the chrome handle piece.

I do the complete assembly as shown in the FINISH MANUAL and actually install the flap handle onto the fuselage now. Note that you will need to first put the ratchet part (XC32204-001 on FN1-14, Page 12.3) through the completed flap handle part before securing it to the fuselage with the bolts as shown in FN1-13 on page 12.2. So don't put the cotter pin in that ratchet part where it attaches to the fuse until you've run it through the flap handle (top where the pawl it). You should see the pawl will grab the "notches" in the ratchet..

[Daveembry]

Well, after almost 6 weeks of getting paint work done my panel has arrived and this week am looking forward to getting back to work installing the Executive Glass Panel and all the wiring, etc.

CubCrafters and I worked on a new color of metallic pearl paint that is really nice but was a challenge to both match and mix the paint (BMW Blue) from PPG Delfleet process into the PPG DUHS single stage paint and for me to get the painting experience to make it work. Metallic painting is different but adding the pearl really makes it challenging and is quite a bit different than spraying regular DUHS single stage paint. This paint was used in a different process (basecoat/clear coat) for a demo plane Chuck Kinburger had and was later owned as a demo by Mike "Bam Bam" Sasser in Texas. This was the first Carbon Cub I ever flew in and loved the color.


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(The demo when Chuck owned it)

As usual, Mitch and Cubcrafters were unreal in their support actually video taping (while also Face timing me live) the painters at the factory spraying a test panel with it. The painter Dale actually did this on his time off one afternoon. It's just super important to builders to have this kind of factory support.

Currently they offer this type of metallic/pearl paint in what I think they call "Volcano Red" but may be adding this new color of blue to their charts.

This difficulty is the pearl in the paint makes it more translucent and shows any variations in the metal. Normal HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) paint systems uses maybe mid 20's to low 30's psi at the gun and sprays from maybe 8-10" away from the panel. If you spray this paint like you would a normal DUHS single color paint with wet coats that flow out normally, the metal will "move" with the paint as it flows and tend to bunch up into what looks like little rivers and valleys. The pearl in the paint really makes this very apparent since it's more translucent and you can see down into the paint in what looks more 3D. If you spray the paint with a very DRY coat to make it not flow and let the metal move, then it doesn't flow out and you get more of a dry, "orange peel" look. So I couldn't figure out how to get it on dry enough to not move the metal, yet wet enough to give it the nice "glossy" look. Just as I was about to give up....CubCrafters and Mitch to the rescue!

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(One of my first test panels. See the metal making little “rivers”? They look like dark lines)


Cubcrafter painters of course knew how to do it. In this case, we increased the air pressure to an incredible 50 psi and moved back around 14-15" from the panel. This increase in the psi lets the paint (with all that micro metal) atomize into very small particles and disburses it very evenly across the panel and moving further back lets the paint/metal go on dryer to prevent any real "flowing" of the paint. Using the metal, any flowing will gather metal and let it move instead of staying put in an even disbursal. I had test painted 12 panels myself trying to figure out a combination that would work before actually spraying the fuselage.

The first 2 coats are then sprayed at 50 psi at 14-15" and is sprayed wet enough so that the paint is glossing over maybe 3 seconds after hitting the panel with a 50% or more overlap. Let the first coat tack up at 75 degrees (longer if cooler, less if hotter) about 15 minutes. The paint should not stick to your gloved finger when touched. Spray the 2nd coat the same except have plenty of paint mixed and ready to fog on a 3rd coat.

This extra 3rd coat is sprayed on as a "fog" coat as is done immediately over the 2nd wet coat. NO TACK TIME. Fogging means we are going to back off to probably about 20" or so at the same 50 psi and spray the same 50% overlap pattern going slowly being sure to hold the gun perpendicular to the panel. What we are doing here is evenly disbursing the metal "dry" into the wet paint. This makes the metal stick into the wet paint very evenly and being this far back makes it stay put because it's really hitting the panel surface more dry and disbursed so it won't flow at all. When you go out into the sun....all that nice metal just shines through the pearl and look outstanding!! The colors actually looks different depending on where you are looking from in relation to the sun.

Here is a link to the video Mitch made showing how it's done.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d2Z...ew?usp=sharing

So now that the fuselage is painted, it's time to bring it back home from the paint booth and get to "finishing" it.

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Here is my beautiful panel I just received. You will notice I do something different to the standard CC panels. I get the panels and then send them out to a local fella who "hydro dips" parts. In this case, the instrument panel and both header panels are dipped into a titanium carbon fiber process which is more silver than the standard CC carbon fiber color. This give it a nice contrast and the clear coat he puts on it makes it shine beautifully. I then send the panels back to CC and they install the components. The cost is about $200 to do this process.

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Stay tuned, next I'm going to start wiring.......

[Daveembry]

WIRING G3X TOUCH EXECUTIVE GLASS

Just a note on Dropbox manuals. I like to go to the Dropbox link for the EX3 manuals and when it opens the manual in the browser, go to the top right and click on DOWNLOAD and then select DIRECT DOWNLOAD in the drop down box. This will install the manual on your hard drive. Then locate it from where you downloaded it to and open it in Adobe Reader. It's faster moving between pages and Adobe is much easier to use for rotating (press and hold CTRL and SHIFT and then press the "-" sign and it will rotate it left and the "+" sign will rotate it right). Great for quickly rotating figures to see better. You can also zoom in and out quickly as well as going directly to a page you are looking for by just typing it into the box at the top with the page numbers on it.

Also, if you direct download it you don't have to have internet service to access it. Great if you are out at the hangar or other location where you don't have internet. One thing to note however is that if Mitch updates that dropbox manual online, you won't have those changes......so you can go back every so often and re-down load it (to simply replace your existing file).

OK so just finished painting the fuse and boot cowl. I know the manual is a bit fuzzy here on when to install the boot cowl and also it shows going ahead and installing the boot cowl before paint BUT DON'T. The factory installs all their instrument panels and wiring harnesses before they cover and paint the plane for some reason but we don't. So ignore the parts about that.

I don't install the boot cowl and drill the holes until after I've painted it and mounting it over the instrument later. You may have to put it up in place if you are painting a scheme that has stripes going from the fuse onto the boot cowl. The one I am doing now has these so after painting, I just went ahead and installed the boot cowl according to the Finish Manual but I didn't install the screws or drill out the larger holes into the boot cowl itself (see the manual). I fit it perfectly and then drilled the smaller holes (#42 or 43 bit) through the boot cowl and into the fuse fabric spacer and installed clecos to hold it in place while I marked the paint stripe location. I just held the temp instrument panel in place with some clamps while I fit the boot cowl. Later, when permanently installing the boot cowl after all the wiring is done, I will drill out the boot cowl holes larger per the manual. I don't like installing the holes, etc before paint like the manual shows. If you do this, the 2 coats of polybrush; 2 coats of polyspray and 2 top coats (and maybe more if stripes are going across) will fill the holes pretty good and you will have to relocate them later and there is just no reason to do it in advance. Just be sure it fits well and all trimmed per the manual before you paint it.


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Sorry, I can't seem to figure out any way to make the picture rotate correctly no matter what I do. This the boot cowl mounting so I can mark the paint change, stripes, etc. The manual shows a figure giving distances between the screws but it's not quite right. I just put 1 about 1-1/2" up from the bottom edge of the boot cowl and then 1 up at the top being sure it is far enough down to go into the fabric spacer metal OK (leaving .25" edge distance from the aft side of the boot cowl). Then I just divide up the distances equally between the hole in between these 2 to get 10 screws total. The manual calls for 2.8" but it will be a little different. I just think it's important to set the top and bottom correctly instead of just coming up 1.8" from the bottom and starting to measure. Note that you do need to come up about 1-1/2" from the bottom because if you go any lower, you will hit one of the fuse tubes.


So after paint, remove all the paper, plastic and masking tape and check out your paint job. It's fun to see the plane now looking cool! You can see what a pain regular masking tape is. I like to use the blue, green, etc. painters tape if the tape will be on more than a couple days because it sticks and falls apart so quickly. "Goof Off", "Ooops" (best for me), etc. is good for removing adhesive or you can get the 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (Part 051135-08984) if you want to pay more money.

Be sure and do like the Finish Manual says and install some tape down between the floorboard and the fabric now before starting anything. Anything you drop will fall down this area and slide under the fuse and may be impossible to get. A good magnet can help with washer, nuts, etc. When I'm finished and before installing the interior panels, I always flip it over (it's on a rotator) and shake the fuse around a little so anything that I might not have caught might work it's way back out! I also blow the inside out after removing all the paint paper, plastic etc.

NOTE THE ORDER OF THE THINGS I'M DOING. So, where do we go from here? After paint this is the order I do things.

I won't go into detail of everything except confusing areas but this will give you a road map of the best order in which to do all this. If you've watched Mitch's latest production of wiring video, you will find this much easier I think. Also I'm going to give you a BIG CHEAT SHEET when we start wiring that is going to make all this real simple.

Before wiring, I like to install the flap handle and header panels first. The flap handle is harder to get to the screws later when the wings and header panels are installed.

Go to the FINISH MANUAL, Page 12.1, Section 1-12 for installation instructions for the flap handle. Before doing that, ream out the powder coat from the hole where the flap ratchet piece (XC32204-001) bolt will go through. A #11 or so bit will do that for the AN3-5 bolt. Don't actually install the flap ratchet piece to the fuse yet, just attach the bolt, washers and castle nut onto it now or if you do install it to the fuse then don't install the cotter pin yet as you will have to remove this bolt later when you go to install the flaps. THIS IS WAAAAAY EASIER TO DO NOW!

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The Door Header Panels start on Section 2-1, Page 1.1.

Install the flap handle first and then the header panels. Note that on the EX3 they started calling out to use a locking washer XC32207-001 under the head of the bolts mounting the flap handle. These parts haven't been in the last 2 kits I had and the bolt heads are drilled, so I safety wired them instead. I also used a full size washer AN960-10 instead of the 10L to make up for that washer. By putting the headers on now, you can go ahead and finish the wiring to them while we are doing the wiring.

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Note the safety wires 2 bolt heads mounting the flap handle and the fork end pieces we installed previously onto the flap handles.

If the TRIM PRIORITY SWITCH is not installed or the hole drilled in the left panel, here is where you drill the hole:

Locate position for toggle switch in left wing root panel,
a. Preferably between fuel sight gauge placard and pilot jacks /controls.
b. Suggested placement with rough dimension see Figure 1: 3.5" forward of the "PILOT ANR" hole is specified.
c. Ensure routed harness reaches intended switch placement.
d. Drill Ø 0.5" hole in left hand wing root for toggle switch.
e. Install Placard.
f. Install toggle switch so it toggles forward and aft with MB36A20O goes to the top center. I think this is usually the side of the switch with the writing on it. I have had some with "2-1" written on top in sharpie.
g. Drill Ø0.625 inch hole in seat base for aft control stick harness and install grommet MS35489-40. Hole should be about 1.1" from the left edge of the seat base and about .8" up from the bottom so that is is to the left of the torque tube.

Clean the 2 grounding taps on the front of the fuse (see Exec Glass Manual Page 29 for hardware callout AN526C1032R8 & AN364-1032A) and the big one under the seat. You will need to get/use a 5/16" fine thread nut for the one under the seat. I have to use a flat razor blade to scrape off the tape they put on before powder coating, then sand. Ream/clean the holes with #10 bit if needed.

Next, I will be referring to the EXECUTIVE GLASS manual (which is the manual with the wiring schematics, etc. and has the long pages.)

NOTE: AS OF THIS DATE, FEB. 2022, THERE IS A COMPLETELY NEW EXECUTIVE GLASS MANUAL WITH A FULL RE-WRITE. It isn’t in Dropbox yet but keep checking as it’s still being completed but is very good.


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Solenoids. Page 23. Note that the nuts MS21083-N3 are the same as AN364-1032A (see primary and alternate #'s on your parts list).

NOTE: AUG. 2020. THESE POSTS WERE MADE PRIOR TO THE USE OF THE NEW "MODULAR PANELS". I WILL FOLLOW UP WITH A FUTURE POST WITH THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THIS STANDARD PANEL AND THE MODULAR ONE.

NOTE: FEB, 2022. MY LATEST BUILD NOW I AM INSTALLING A FULL IFR PANEL AND WILL ALSO ADD INFO ON THE DIFFERENCES FOR THIS AT THE END OF THIS WIRING SECTION AS WELL.

Before installing the tray it's easier to install the ADHRS unit into the tray first. The hardware is called out in the manual. (OLD MANUAL)......Page 27, bottom center shows the bolts AN3-10A bolts with AN960-10L washers, etc. needed and page 28 - top right - shows the tubing. Note that the new manual dated 02/07/2022 is wrong in that it shows the FACTORY way of mounting the ADAHRS unit (GSU25C). The factory mounts this unit out on the left wing and the kit versions mount it behind the panel on the tray. Also the shunt is shown in the new manual mounting on a tube. That is wrong...kit versions mount on the aft side of the tray in the center and probably comes already installed at the factory but you will have to install the GSU25 yourself on the tray.

Note that they have now changed it so that you can install nutplates instead of using the AN364-1032A half nuts. Use MS21066L3 nutplates (with HDW-04-00981 pop rivets) with the AN3-10A bolts and washer. The newer kits/panels are shipping with these nutplates so if you will have to order them or use the half nuts.

I install the "T" white plastic fitting VP-9050-003.......onto the VP-9050-001 "elbow" onto the aft fitting on the ADHRS.

Note that the "T" has not been in my last couple of kits and no part number called out in the manual. This last kit I have I actually found it in an UNLABELED bin in Tote 1 of the G3X-EX3 tote.

You can see the orientation of the unit with the connectors on the left side of the aircraft and the tubes facing upwards. Later in the setup of the G3X you may have to tell it that it's mounted "forward to aft with connectors to the port and facing up", or something to that affect.


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TRAY

When I placed the tray, placing it about 6" from the front of the tray to the aft side of the front, firewall tube seemed to work about right. BEFORE installing the tray, first install the AN526C1032R6 screws into the 2 empty holes on the left side tubes that aren't used.....right where the tray will sit. One of those aft holes is hard to get to after the tray is installed.

Also if you have to install some connector plates onto the backs of your transponder (this is a Garmin 345R unit which is a remote mount), it's also easier to do it now. The screwdriver tip is pointing the plate I'm referring to. The plate here that goes onto the transponder is installed onto the back of the mounting bracket it comes in. Remove the unit from it's bracket by using a 3/32" allen wrench in the front hole and turning counter clockwise until it unlatches. You can see the latch on the bottom of the unit. My kit was missing this plate on the current build but the others it was just zip tied to the tray. If you don't have it, call CC.


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Slide the unit out and use the 4 screws that came attached to the bracket you are installing to mount it on the outside of the slide in mounting bracket as shown in the photo above. You will have to screw the screws in from the inside of the bracket. (You can partially screw the screws into the bracket and then you can see that the tray has a place you can slide it in and over and then finish tightening the screws.)

Before re-installing the transponder unit, you will also need to attach the connector P3251 in the G3X Wiring Harness. See below on the COM connector on how to do that but do it before you install the unit back onto the tray.


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Here you can see the locking mechanism that turns with the allen wrench.

You will also have to put one on the back of your comm radio if you have a panel mount head. It's a little different but easy to figure out. There is a bracket that mounts onto the back of the radio tray. Slip it into position and then when you lay out your G3X Harness, the P2001 connector that will plug into the back of the radio....you will remove the 2 screws that hold the connector in place in the harness....then put the connector into the hole that it fits in on the bracket and then reinstall those 2 screws from the inside of the tray back into the connector.

I think the manual pages are self explanatory in putting the battery brackets and ignition boxes together and onto the fuse. The manual shows having to install more clamps onto the tubes but the new fuselages have tabs with holes in them already welded in the proper places, so that isn't necessary now. Part number SC91020-001 is incorrect, it should be SC91024-001 (little "arm" piece that goes from the top, left side of the battery box up to the tab to mount).

To mount the backup battery, the new manual (2022) actually changes this to use AN526C1032R6 screws instead. Also it changes the nutplates to HDW-A4972-5-3 as well. Page 38 of new manual.

Note that you will have to drill a hole in the upper, left battery bracket support (SC91024-001). After mounting the bracket onto the fuse, just match drill this hole. Be sure all your screw heads are to the inboard side because when replacing these we will access them by removing that front, right interior panel and want to be able to easily remove the screws, etc.

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You’ll notice that I don’t have the lower battery that hangs below the upper one. I was missing the 3 clip on nut plates and the screws that go here so will have to wait to install that battery. The manual says you have to drill the holes in the battery but you won’t have to, they are already in the battery I have. The kit comes with this battery but you will have to purchase the upper battery shown here. It’s a Power Sonic PS-1221S and I get mine at www.techbatterysolutions.com for $24. Also, the clip-on nut plates they call for....and supply in the totes .....is HDW-A1789-8Z-1 (Tinnerman Nut)......will not fit onto the battery as they are too long to go all the way on. I just took my dremel and cut off the ends of them enough so the holes lined up. NOTE THAT THE NEW MANUAL THAT IS COMING OUT IN EARLY 2022 CHANGES THOSE NUTPLATES TO THE HDW-A4972-5-3 THAT WORK MUCH BETTER.

IGNITION BOXES: Write a big R...right and L...eft on each of the ignition boxes. When we install the wiring, we want to keep them separate. Exec. Glass Manual Page 24 for parts callout.

NOTE: I put nutplates MS21059L3 onto the 2 top mounting locations where the ignition boxes bracket mounts to the fuselage tabs and used the AN526C1032R6 screws. The reason is that if you ever have to get to these boxes and remove them later, it's really hard to get to those 2 nuts if you have to remove the boxes. The lower to are easy to get to so I don't put nutplates on those (plus, the nutplates won't fit right on those lower holes.

Set your instrument panel just like you did when you built the boot cowl. I remove the G3X Touch panel from it first to make it easier to install some wires. Just unscrew the 4 screws that are in each corner and it will just pop right out. Also go ahead and remove the com radio if you have that head installed in the panel as well.

Page 40 of the Finish Manual has the callout but I think the R7 screw is a little short so I used R8's to give more threads exposed through the locknut. BUT BUT BUT......If you look at the Exec. Glass Manual, Page 19, G3X21; Detail A, you will see they call for R8 screws as well.....in conflict with the Finish manual that says R7.

ALSO NOTE that the Exec. Glass DETAIL A calls for using a nutclip HDW-A-4972-5-3 to mount the panel instead of nuts....these are in the totes. This is much easier than the locknut.

The easiest way I have found is to find your 3" marks on the tubes where the front of the panel will sit flush with and then be sure it's equal distances on each side from the tube, then clamp the panel to a tube to hold it in the correct place.

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Next I use the hemostats to pull the adel clamp over the panel and hold it in place and then I match drill up from the bottom with a #12 bit.


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Then use some .41 safety wire and safety wire the adel clamp together until you can get the bolt secured. The hemostats will have to be removed because they take up the space on the clamp where the washer and nut have to go so I just use it to clamp it tight until I can safety wire it. Sometimes you can just use the hemostats to hold it and have enough room to fit your nut over the screw so you don't have to safety wire.


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