<Archive Thread> Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

[Daveembry]

Well the latest version of the manual shows to round them off. They use to come rounded but now they stopped cutting that curve I guess. It says to cut a curve in it that matches the door frame there I guess.

Dave:

This is perfect. This is the part I'm working on now and a lot more makes sense.

But to clarify, I don't need to round off the two baggage door extensions, as shown in the pictures?

Thanks a bunch for your help and insight.

Macon

[Daveembry]

THROTTLE QUADRANTS

Page 11.1. FUSELAGE MANUAL

This is a fun little project but a little confusing.

I did a short video showing the completed quadrants if you want to take a look https://youtu.be/JBjvsyJXHJY

NOTE: There is a SERVICE INSTRUCTION SK-Sl001, Propeller Lever Spring Retrofit. To see all Service Bulletins, you can go to this link http://cubcrafters.com/c/publications/. This specific one is down in the list and the direct link to it is http://cubcrafters.com/c/wp-content/...SKSI001-10.pdf. The is an "optional" change and it says its through serial number 72 but I just received 94 and it was not upgraded in the kit so I got this and installed it. It just changes 2 parts so a spring can be added to help keep the prop lever forward without having to tighten the friction knob so tight. Since it's "optional" I guess is the reason it isn't included in the kit and they will in fact charge you $155 if you want it.

It replaces XC99002-001, Lever, Prop Control with SK99002-001; SC58102-004 Spacer FWD Controls with SK58102-001 and adds a spring SP99001-001, Extension Spring.

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HOWEVER, Figure FS15 IS WRONG. This figure seems to be calling out for the new part for the Service Instruction SL001 regarding the installation of the spring on the prop lever.

Fig. FS15 calls for part SK58102-001 which is the new part number used with the Service Instruction to install the spring onto. However, the kit DOES NOT HAVE THIS NEW PART SHIPPED AND DOES NOT HAVE THE SK58102-001 lever or the SP99001-001 SPRING.


So, either we need these 3 new parts as part of the kit (instead of having to install them as an "optional" Service Instruction) or the manual needs to be changed to reflect the old part SC58102-004 that is used where it indicated the SK58102-001.


So if you are not getting these new parts then replace the callout in FS15 for the SK58102-001 with the original part which is shipped with the kit SC58102-004. Everything else in the figure will be correct.

Also note that Screws/bolts AN23-27A (bottom screw) and AN23-21A (2 top screws) are called out for that go from the top of the quadrants into the fuselage. Originally, there were no welded nuts on the fuse. You'll notice the Figures call out for an AN364-1032A nut on those bolts but now they are welded into the fuse so those aren't needed. HOWEVER, since they changed this....note that those bolts won't fit correct without an additional washer or the shoulder of these bolts will bottom out before you can completely tighten them into the fuse. So we need another spacer. So I used an AN960-10 washer between the last (outboard) part and the fuse, before screwing them in so the screws would not bottom out on the shoulder before getting tight.

HERE WE GO:

I start by getting all the main parts together and then I take a silver sharpie and I write the part numbers on the larger, black parts as I take them out of the plastic bags so I can see the part numbers as I put the puzzle together.

I separate the parts into the front and the rear and work on 1 at a time.

Notice on the Fig. FS15 that the 2 main areas are the bottom and the top parts of the FRONT quadrant, because it is different and a bit more complicated than the rear (Fig FS16) because there are 2 screws everything mounts onto at the bottom of the quadrant and the rear is just 1.

The 2 pieces that go between the prop and throttle handles that have little arches in them, the arches go down so the straight part of them goes up.

Be sure and install the little metal piece that "latches" over the tension knob BEFORE you install in onto the fuse because it won't fit over it after you slide in it place (needs to be OVER that knob before installing that latch with the screw that holds it.) Be sure the prop and throttle handles have the countersunk sides facing OUTBOARD where the screws will install. I don't install the knobs right now because you will have to remove them to fit and later install the interior panel there....so I just pull the screw parts now and screw them into the handles and put them in my FINISH box where everything goes that I know won't be used until I've installed the wings and finishing it up at the hangar.

Here is my figure notes on the front showing the BOTTOM OF QUADRANT and the TOP OF QUADRANT. (Fig. are shown from old manual)

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Here are photos of the quadrants installed. These are the front one first.

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Here are photos of the rear quadrant.

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NOTE that I had the parts SC58102-004 and -005 reversed in the packages. (the factory had the pieces labeled wrong....they swapped the part numbers) The triangular piece goes on the rear and the one with the 2 holes on the bottom, goes on the forward quadrant.

I also take a qtip dipped in white grease after I'm finished and swab it in between the plastic parts that the throttle and prop handles slide on. You can put the knobs on the handles for now if you want but they will have to come off later when you install the interior panel over the top.

[Daveembry]

STRINGERS

Here is a Youtube link to a short video I did going over the finished install: https://youtu.be/k6uS0uLyz2I

The stringers are not as hard as they are made out to be. Remember, the purpose of them is to simply hold the fabric out away from the fuse tubes so you just want to put them in the correct places and then use your "eyeball" to see if they are straight (from front to aft) and not bowed out when you look DOWN on onto it from above.

First just put the stringers where they HAVE to go on the fuse.....which is on the aft "tubes" (2 on each side in the rear); 2 on the right front end and 1 on the left front end.. Just use a spring clamp to clamp it into place there to start with and another clamp towards the front somewhere just to hold it in place until you can measure the front for the location.

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Next measure up from the BOTTOM of the fuse tube up for the various stringers (14-1/2" to the center of the upper; 7-5/8" at the middle, left side, etc etc per the manual). Once I have the front and the rear in the locations they must go, I just stand back and "eyeball" the outside, center point of the stringers and see if they look straight.

NOTE: The measurement given on Page 12.1 Dropbox, Photo 047. I can't make that measurement of 10 3/8" work. If you have the front at 14 1/2" and the middle one at 12 3/8"....and the rear one that has to go on the post on the fuse........the 10 3/8" measurement is too high to be straight. I made it work with about 9-1/2" at that measurement. Just "eyeball" it and make it straight.

String lines don't really work that well because of the bow. Just look at it and go down the stringer and place a couple more spring clamps on the tabs that mount onto the fuse tubes. Keep "eyeballing" and adjusting those center clamps up and down until it looks nice and straight to you.

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Next, just look along the stringer and make sure none of the clamps locations you used (don't put clamps on every single tab or tube, just use enough to hold it up and straight) aren't PULLING the stringer in too hard against the fuse. If it is, take it off and put in on another tube and let the stringer come on out to it's natural position. If you are having put a lot of pressure on the stringer to make it go in and touch the fuse tube, you will be making it BOWED in and you don't want to do that. As the manual says, leave it out and use the meth to fill the gaps between the stringer tabs and the fuse tubes up to 3/8" so the stringer stays straight and not bowed in. See the photo below. In this example, I will NOT push the stringer in, but instead just fill this gap with meth when I bond them all.

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After they all LOOK good to you, then take a silver sharpie marker and mark where each tab contacts the tube it will attach to like this. This is so when we take the stringer off to scuff the fuse tubes and apply the meth, we can easily just line it back up where we have determined it sits best.

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Where each stringer meets the posts on the fuse in the rear and front, take a straight edge and hold it along the stringer over to the main tube next to it and be sure it's flush (or slightly inside the straight edge). If the end of the stringer is sticking OUT then you will need to sand the inside of it to make it fit more flush. Remember, we are just making it look good so imagine the fabric is stretched across the stringer to the fuse tube next to it and you don't want it to protrude out and make it look bad. It's all about looks here. Just visualize the fabric and where it will touch the fuse/stringers, etc and be sure it will look good.

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Here you can see where this stringer end will stick out and needs to be sanded on the inside.


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This one looks good to go.

Once it's all good, remove the stringers and scuff the fuse per the manual and clean it and then apply the meth. No need to put more spring clamps on than the small number you used when you straightened it out. In fact, you should just put the spring clamps on the tabs that meet the tubes flush when you align them and then use the same places to put the clamps back on when you meth it.

Don't worry about the bottom stringers in the front section (both right and left sides) where the end sticks out. We will address these ends much later on PAGE 21.2 of the manual when we install the top stringer and side fabric spacers.

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SEAT BASE (Page 14.5)

THE SEAT BASE ACTUALLY SCRATCHES VERY EASILY, SO IT'S IMPORTANT TO KEEP IT PROTECTED WHILE WORKING ON IT. I use shop towels, etc to lay on it while I'm working.

Also, the seat base reinforcement rails are part numbers SC22103-001 (left outside) is countersunk. SC22103-003 are 2 of the parts for the inside of the seat base and are NOT countersunk and SC22103-002 (right outside) is SUPPOSE to be countersunk and mine was not. I went ahead and countersunk the holes myself, no big deal....but just note that you might have the same problem.


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Also the 2 holes either side of the pilot seat at bottom needs to be enlarged enough for the stick connector (left pilot side, bottom) to go through and if stainless steel brake lines, the right side also.


BATTERY BOX INSTALLATION

I want to skip ahead here and go ahead and install the battery box. It's MUCH easier to drill and rivet now instead of later on the finish doing this with the floorboard already installed.

Go to the FINISH MANUAL, Page 7-2 and Fig FN2-3 (and the rest of the description and photos there) and install the hardware now (nutplates) and then remove the box and set it aside until the finish. I put all the screws/washers in a small ziplock, label it and tape it to the battery box and set it aside. It is also now in the new Executive Glass Manual, Page 41 but it still doesn't tell you how big to drill the holes!

NOTE THAT THE FIGURE FN2-3 IS SOMEWHAT WRONG with the number of parts needed. There are 7 holes so you need 7 screws (AN507C632R8); 7 washers (HDW-A3236-012-935); 7 nutplates (MS21059L06) and 14 rivets (MS20426A3-6) to install the nutplates. They "tell" you to drill a 7th hole in the center of the bottom, forward lip of the battery box.

This is where an inspection mirror works well so you can look up into the top of the seat base as you install the nutplates (so you can see that your rivets are going through the holes in the nutplates OK and to inspect them after squeezed.).

Also, the rivets that go into the 1 nutplate that is in the center of the lower level of the box, that part of the carbon fiber may be too thick for the rivets to go through it and the nutplate and still be able to be squeezed. Check it and if it's too thick, just get your dremel tool with sanding drum on it and sand the box down thinner underneath (on the bottom of the floorboard).

Not listed in the manual or figure is that you will also need to countersink the holes in the top of the battery box so that the tinnerman washers will fit flush.

DRILL HOLES FOR BATTERY LEAD WIRES. It doesn't show you anything about holes and grommets for the holes you will need to drill into the battery box to put the leads through. You can see the photos how they go. If using the Odyssey batteries that factory (and me) use, I put the battery in the box and see a good height to have them coming through. You will drill 5/8" holes and use 2 MS35489-11 grommets.

Lastly, while I'm in this section of the FINISH MANUAL, go ahead and look at FN2-4 on page 8-2 and pull the hardware that is used to mount the seat onto the seat base. I just stick the bolt through the hole with the washers and lightly install the locknut inside. Just leave these here until you install the seat which will be once of the last things you do on your plane when you are finishing it.

Also when pulling the parts I noticed that the seat takes 2 AN3-7A and none were shipped with my kit so I can get this request into Mitch and have them when I really need them later. Put an AN960-10L under the bolt head on the outside and use 2 of the AN960-10 washers with 2 AN365-1032A locknuts inside the seat base for the seat screws. Note that SC15000-015 is a bushing that fits in the slots and slides. Be sure and out a little white grease on it.

AFT STICK HOLE FOR WIRE HARNESS

I go ahead now and also drill the hole and put in the grommet for the hole that goes through the seat base to the rear stick. This drawing is found on a drawing for the rear trim installation in a separate file in Dropbox. Just drill a 5/8" hole and install a MS35489-11 grommet per this drawing.

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TORQUE TUBE - Page 14.7

PROBLEM: One thing that seems to be pretty common is that the torque tube ends up being too tight and stiff when the bolts are installed and torqued to 90 in lbs.

WATCH THESE 2 SHORT YOUTUBE VIDEOS OF ME EXPLAINING THE PROBLEM AND HOW TO FIX IT AS EXPLAINED HERE.

BE SURE AND WATCH BOTH VIDEOS FIRST BECAUSE SOME CHANGES ARE RECOMMENDED IN PART 2.

https://youtu.be/qa6xeu3D468 Part 1

https://youtu.be/Dp_FKeVJ8Gw Part 2

The tube sits in a front and rear set of "blocks". Your blocks probably have some sharpie marks in silver on them on one side. Probably something like 3 marks across one side of the opening and 1 on the other. This shows how the blocks were "mated" at the factory when they were cut for the torque tube to sit in, so be sure you are using them with the marks lining up from each side of the block when you put the torque tube in them.

PROBLEM SOLVED. What I also found was that what was causing the tightness wasn’t actually just the size of the torque tube but the ANGLE of the blocks on the floor board. (see the videos) I would have one fitting nicely in the blocks but then I noticed once torqued down, no matter what, it would be tight. Then I noticed the blocks sit at a slight angle on the floorboard. Unless PERFECT in alignment with the torque tube, it would then BIND onto the tube when you tightened it down and it then hit the tube at an angle and makes it hard to rotate freely. THIS IS TRUE ON BOTH THE FRONT AND THE REAR SET OF BLOCKS.

So the block has to be either sanded to make the bottom block fits tight against the floorboard while at the right angle to the torque tube (look at where the blocks meet the back side of the front mast. Push the mast up against the blocks and there should be no gaps all the way around the mast if the block is correct. If there is more gap at the top than the bottom, you need to either sand the front of the block until it does sit correctly on the floorboard or shim the back side up). NOTE that you have to do all this before you install the rear mast so you can remove the bottom block.

On Page 14.8, FS20, the "measurement" that is important that is referred to in the 3rd paragraph is referring to making the top block on the front 0.93 from the seat base to the center of the hole.

Once again you will see in Fig FS20 that the nuts used are using the "Alternate Part Number" of MS21083-N3 which is really an AN364-1032A.

NOTE THAT BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE REAR MAST YOU FIRST HAVE TO PUT YOUR WHITE GREASE ON THE BOTTOM OF BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR TORQUE TUBE BLOCKS. Once you install the rear mast and the torque tube is on the blocks, you won't be able to.

Be SURE and watch the video and read the explanation for getting the bottom of the front blocks correct before installing the rear mast because I found out later that the blocks change when you install the floorboard into the fuse (because of the slope of the front part). I would wait to match drill through the front torque tube stiffener until after the install of the floorboard so you can see where it sits after installation.

AN4-24A bolts go through the front & rear torque tube blocks (Page 14.8; FS20 & FS33) and AN970-4 washer and AN365-428A nut on the bottom (Page 14.8, FS20). Note that when you drill these holes and install the bolts, be sure they move freely and the blocks are not jambed when you insert the bolt. Check by moving the stick/tube back and forth and that it does not bind up. When tightened, the blocks but be completely flush up against the mast all the way around. Any gaps means the blocks are not sitting properly on the seat base causing it to be cocked and will jamb up the torque tube when torqued.

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I also like to sand/round the corners of these stiffeners just to knock the sharp corner off (so when I wear sandals and bump my heel into it I don't curse).


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PAGE 14.11, CONTROL STICK STUBS

I also go ahead and pull the bolt, washer and nut for the top hole in the stub (where the stick will later mount to) and install it loosely in the hole so I don't have to go back later to search for the correct part numbers. See FS22.

REAR TORQUE TUBE BLOCK AND COVER PLATE (formerly called Aileron Stop Plate)

On PAGE 14.10 of the manual, at the very end in RED it says the rear torque tube block will be installed in a later section. Install these after you install the floorboard to be sure the angles stay the same on the floorboard and blocks and stiffeners after you install it.

REAR TORQUE TUBE BLOCKS. Page 15.6. This is pretty self explanatory but the figure to use is FS28 on Page 15.5 and Page 16.6, FS33 is a larger one. Note that I have found that the rear blocks have to be shimmed on the forward side just a bit so that it also sits up flush against the rear mast all the way around. Again, if it's not when the bolts are torqued in the blocks, it will bind the torque tube.

Also, if you haven't already done it earlier, I would also go ahead and install the aileron limit screws shown on that same figure and do that before installing the blocks as it will be a little easier since you can still move the tube (and rear mast over since it has a piece on the bottom that sticks down through the floorboard). Later you will use these bolts to adjust the aileron travel when you set the angles when installing them, it's just much easier to get them in now than later after cover, etc. The bolts are NAS428-4-14 with AN364-428A nuts. No washers.



Note that the call-out for the screws into the seat base from the torque tube stiffener is AN525-10R8 and there are none (and never have been any in any of the kits for some reason). There are AN525-10R9's in the kit and this is what I used. They are just a tad longer screw which is fine and I don't think they are used elsewhere.

AILERON STOP PLATE

In the EX2 this stop plate was used to actually set the max travel for the elevator angles so it was set to be centered on the stick when it was perfectly vertical and then later, on final when installing the ailerons, you would actually file away the side of this plate until the max travel of the rear stick hit the side of this plate at the right max angle of aileron deflection.

Now on the EX3 they changed and welded the stop bolts onto the bottom of the fuse (we just installed them above). So for now, this is just a cover plate. I imagine later they will change the floorboard and just make it the right dimensions and no plate will be necessary. So just center the plate on the opening so it looks nice and install the hardware. The hardware is called out in FS28.

Yes, you will actually have to screw the plastic washers onto the screws. They do this on purpose I'm told. I used a #28 bit.

Don't install the round COVER PLATE yet. You will first have to install the pulleys and then you can install it per FS33 hardware.

[Daveembry]

HEATER DUCT AND HEAT SHIELD

Manual Page 14.3. Note that I found the heat shield piece fits best onto the bottom of the floorboard area when you let the piece overhand the front of the floorboard about .75". Just slide it back and forth until the sides fit best and FLAT to the floorboard and then mark the bottom with a silver sharpie. Then cut off that .75" that overhangs the front.

NOTE: NOV. 2021. The last one I got fit fine without trimming. Looks like they have made it better and trimmed it down now so that it doesn't go over the screw holes like the earlier ones.


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You can see on the bottom right where I'm holding a ruler showing the front overhangs about .75".


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In the photo above, you can see the outer sharpie marks which shows where the panel would lay if the front was flush with the front of the floorboard. But, if you do this, you will notice the sides don't fit very well and the panel will not want to sit flush with the floorboard. The inner sharpie outline is the correct one.

You will also probably need to trim out on the panel around where the 2 screw holes are coming through the floorboard.


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I use clothes pins on the front so it doesn't smash so much of the meth out as happens when using the big spring clamps. I also use several small lead diving weight bags to keep it all down tight while it dries.

I also go around the exterior again after the weights are on, with meth and get a bead of it under and around the edge and smooth it in to make a good seal. You don't want any of your hot air coming in to escape, so make a tight seal.


RUDDER/BRAKE PEDAL INSTALL

- Page 14.14
The written description on the first page is all wrong as it refers to the fig. numbers. The relevant figures are FS24 -FS27.

On page 14.17 where it shows using clecos, the GOLD ones are just barely big enough but if you don't have any, you can just use a couple of punches to drop into the holes to hold them into position until I install them onto the floorboard.

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You will have to match drill the holes through the heel plates and also through the back of the back brace. I used a #12 bit.

To clarify which way the back brace goes (chevron's go which way??? )...... you can see in my photo that the wider side of the brace goes towards the FRONT of the floorboard.

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You can see here where we match drilled from the rear of the floorboard on either side of the heater tunnel and installed the R8 screws.

REAR PEDALS

Manual is pretty clear here. On the rear pedals, the front, single hole in the pedal (not the 3 in a row) will line up with the OUTSIDE hole of the 2 that are pre-drilled. So cleco the rear rudder pedals to that OUTSIDE hole (so the other hole will be on the INSIDE of the floorboard) and match drill the other 3 holes and install the screws (with #12 bit), big washers and nuts. Remember those part numbers shown are the "alternate" part numbers on the tote parts lists.

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Before installing the floorboard in the fuselage, I go ahead and install the connecting rods SC96004-001 and -002 to the pedals as shown on FS26 & FS27.

Page 14.21 & 14.22 has FS26 and FS27 showing all the hardware to connect the brake connects and rudder cables.

Be sure and put a little white grease in the pivot areas.

AFTER YOU INSTALL THE FLOORBOARD LATER.........Both rudder cables are the same and I just go ahead now and lay them back in the baggage area coiled up and connect the front of each one now while I'm doing the hardware. Starting at the rear, pull the cable through the fairlead holes (4 on each side) with the small end going up to the rudder cables.

NOTE THAT YOU MUST FIRST INSTALL THE RUDDER CABLES IF YOU WANT TO COMPLETELY SET UP THE BOTTOMS OF THE PEDALS. Go to Page 23.1 to see how to route the cables up from the rear of the fuse to the pedals before hooking them up.
You will need to first install the 2 piece fairlead Segments in the 7 places (4 on left and only 3 on right) side because 1 is the one we installed with the grommet in it already. You can also ignore this for now and do it later.
.
You first have to thread the rudder cables starting in the rear with the looped end going towards the front rudder pedals. Run the cables through the aft hole (behind the extended baggage area), through the holes you drilled in the back piece of the extended baggage area, up through fairlead piece at the forward sides of the baggage area and through the 1 other hole in the fuse on each side about where the rear seat is.

Note that I don't install that right side fairlead we have to rivet to the right, forward side of the extended baggage area yet unless you followed my instructions about fitting that right, rear interior panel in place first so you can see where the "tube" part of that panel is. You can't center the cable in the fairlead because it won't fit well into the interior panel. I found it to be correct at that 28" forward of the rear baggage compartment and 5" up from the bottom ......centered in the fairlead.

The fairleads that go through all of these areas are 2 pieces so you can install them after you run the cables. Put the circle clip on and silicone them to the fairleads. The 2 longer fairleads go through the rear extended baggage area and the 5 short ones go in the other holes.

INSTALLING FLOORBOARD INTO FUSE

Set the floorboard into place in the fuse. It's easiest to use a headlamp to help you look down into the holes in the floorboard and fuse to line up the holes. Take an awl and just go to a few places on each corner and line up the holes. The screws that you will use 32 of are not called out in the manual (of course). Use AN526C1032R8 screws for these 32 holes. Use (2) AN3-5A bolt with (2) TC9004-004 washers to go into the rear pedals (that front, center hole) and use (4) AN507C1032R10 screws in the front pedals (2 each pedal). This equals 38 total screws. The last 2 you will use are (2) HDW2503-0 with 3 AN960-10 washers under it. These are pieces of hardware that are used on rifles to attach to the stock so you can attach your sling. It will be used later to install the rear seat as the seat will actually have the "swivel" fitting just like on your rifle sling, that will attach to these. In one of my kits, I was missing these but on the last couple of kits, they have been included. No big deal, they can be added anytime. Photos 15.4 on Page 125 shows the 2 holes these go in so don't put the R8 screws in these holes.

The holes usually do NOT line up very good. It's easiest to put the floorboard in place first and mark all the misaligned holes with a sharpie. I draw where the hole should be. Then I remove the floorboard and drill out all the holes with a #5 per the manual. I then use that same drill bit and using some pressure, move the hole over however much is needed for that hole to line up with the fuse. It's REALLY LOTS EASIER to do this now than before trying to install it.

Now, you might be lucky and all the holes in the floorboard line up with the fuse holes but I doubt it. None of mine ever have. IF...... you didn't get the holes right like the paragraph above says then......What I do is to go ahead and put a little BLUE loctite on all the screws that have the holes all lined up nice. I install the screws through the front pedals first since they are harder to "fix" later if they are off. Don't tighten the screws all the way, just get them started with a hand screwdriver for now to be sure they will actually "start" in the holes.

After you have all the "easy" ones done, use your Dremel tool with a straight bit (not sure what you really call them). The sides of the tip cuts so you can stick it down into the floorboard and cut enlarge the hole a little in the direction it needs to go. Your headlamp here helps. Be care full and try to pull the floorboard up just a tad when you do this and don't get your bit down into the fuse hole where it's all tapped out already or you will mess up the threads. Just enlarge the hole enough to get the screws started and then once all the screws are fitting, I use a drill set to the highest torque and tighten them all down (with BLUE loctite on them all). Take a peek under the fuse and be sure your floorboard is flush against the fuse tubes everywhere to be sure the screws tightened the floorboard good.

Don't tighten (or really even better, don't install them at all ) the 2 most rear screws (1 on either side) yet. You will need to lift the rear of the floorboard up later to match drill the 5 screws that go into the rear fuse when you put the rear baggage area floorboard in next.

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Don't use a drill bit because it WILL go down into the tapped out hole in the fuse and you will really have some work cut out for you!


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You can see the blue circles around the holes that gets the rifle sling fitting type screws. TC9004-004


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Also, when installing the springs on the front pedals on FUSE Page 15.8, the springs have a habit of coming loose on people I've heard. It's happened to me once but since then I take a pair of pliars and close up the hooked ends of the springs. After I install the end onto the pedal, I bent it closed and before installing the other end onto the clamp on the fuse, I close it up.

RUDDER PEDALS HARDWARE

To finish installing the front baggage floor, go back to the Extended Baggage Manual, Page 11.1.


So to clarify,

1. Match drill the rear of the floorboard to the 5 fuse holes with a #10 bit and then enlarge to a #5 bit.
2. Place the forward, extended baggage floor down and be sure the forward part fits flush into the recess groove in the rear of the floorboard and then match drill the 5 holes you just drilled in the forward floorboard (start with #10 and then enlarge to #5).
3. Match drill now the seat belt screw holes into the forward, extended baggage floor in both corners with a 1/4" bit and then enlarge to 5/16". The rear of your main floorboard should already be cut away in this area, so it won't have to be match drilled.
3. Screw in the 5 AN526C1032R8 screwsinto the joint See Fig. EX10
4. Match drill #40 bit the rear of this and install 7 rivets HDW-AD32BS into the rear of the forward extended baggage floor.

Connect the cables to the torque tube masts per FS30 on Page 16.2.


Just FYI, I have 29 hours 15 minutes into the fuse build so far. Remember, this is my 3rd one so probably much faster than you but hopefully this thread will help cut down alot of grief as you can see how many things are not in the manual that you would be scratching your head and trying to reach Mitch on!

[Daveembry]

FUSELAGE

PEDAL SPRINGS

Hint: Hook the spring on the pedal first and then put the other end in the clamp. It's much easier than vice versa.


PULLEYS & CABLES

Page 16.1. Note that you FIRST have to run the front end of the cable THROUGH the cable guard (see FS41; SK91003-001) before connecting to the front stick. Then you can secure it to the floorboard.

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One thing you can do that makes it easier on the finish is to label (or keep the part number tags) on the aft cable ends that will connect to the elevators. Then on the label, write UP or TOP on the SC97300-003 cable that is connecting the rear stick and DOWN or BOTTOM on the SK95300-001 cable that connects to the front stick. Later when you have to connect these to the elevators, it will make it easier so you don't have to track down which cable is which at that point.

When you install these cables in the rear of the floorboard, double pulleys, the rear stick cable (SC97300-003) will go on the LEFT side pulley.

FIG FS32 shows the hardware. There are 4 washers on the inside of the built in pulley bracket (floorboard) and they are a little hard to get all lined up but here is the best way.

First, put a good dab of the white grease inside each pulley hole and on the bolt first. Then put grease on either side of the 2 pulleys and on each side of these 4 washers and STICK the washers on the sides of the pulleys and line them up with the bolt or awl or whatever.

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First be sure the cables are THROUGH the pulley bracket with that front stick one on the RIGHT side (aircraft right from pilot seat). As you look down from the top of the floorboard into the pulley bracket, then you should see the 2 cables lying there on the bottom of the bracket floor in the correct position.

Stick the bolt (with the 416 washer under the bolt head) just a little into the hole from right to left side of the pulley built in pulley bracket. Then take the first pulley and from the topside, put it down into the bracket being sure the cable is correct and under that pulley and IN that pulley and slide the bolt through that pulley until it just barely protrudes. Then slowly work the last pulley into place being sure the STUCK ON washers are centered on the holes. As I stick it down in the hole, I take my awl from the other side of the pulley bracket and stick it into the hole a little and then as I push the pulley down from the top, I slide the awl into the pulley hole. Then you can push the bolt on through. Double check all the washers are in fact installed and didn't slide out.

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Route the cable to the back, double pulley bracket and install those pulleys. They are back on FS11 on page 6.2. I wrote about it earlier in these posts (make sure the pulleys turn freely in this bracket as it tends to be too tight.) Also you can go back to my post #38 here to see me talk about this pulley. (Probably need to cut the washers in half) https://forum.cubcrafters.com/showth...ll=1#post22079P1050964.jpg


Lastly, you need to be careful how you route these cables to the rear and how they go through the area around the electric trim platform. Here is a drawing Mitch send me that shows how those cables go through the fuse. If you look carefully, I have labeled each cable and colored them differently. You don't really have to worry about these as you can always move them around by reaching up from the bottom inspection opening when you go to install the elevators, but it's easier now to just route them correctly.

You DO have to get the right cables attached to the right sticks and run them through the pulleys in the correct locations NOW though!

SC97300-003 cable attaches to the rear stick and goes on the pilot LEFT in the double pulley. SC95300-001 cable attaches to the front stick and goes on the right side of the pulleys.

You can see the BLUE cable is coming from the rear torque tube mast; goes on the pilot LEFT side of the pulley; and is going to the top elevator - UP. It goes through the fuse on the LEFT side of the pulleys. Look closely how it passes through the fuse as it comes up from the bottom to the top of the elevators. If you notice, the trim platform that the trim motor is mounted on is on the diagram inside a YELLOW TRIANGLE of fuse tubes. This BLUE cable goes directly under the trim motor and after being attached to the elevators, it will be very close to the diagonal tube that goes from the left side on the bottom to the right side on the top. There is a diagonal tube going from bottom left to top right so cable will be above and to the left of this diagonal tube and the cable will almost touch the trim motor itself. The anti-chafe tape will go on this diagonal tube as well.

The other cable is shown in RED and is coming from the FRONT STICK; is on the RIGHT side of the pulley and you will note it goes under the trim platform but not in the same "YELLOW TRIANGLE" that the trim platform is in but in the other YELLOW TRIANGLE and will attach to the BOTTOM of the elevators.


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(Here you can see that the LEFT cable is going UPWARDS.)

When you look upwards from the bottom of the fuse, the cable will almost be directly vertical.


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(Here you are looking up from the bottom inspection hole and looking towards the front of the plane from the rear and can see the cable going right under the trim platform and right beside the trim motor and the other cable under the diagonal tube. The first one is the BLUE cable coming from the rear stick and left side of the pulley.)



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(See here the LEFT cable going UPWARDS where it passes under the trim motor platform. It looks in this photo like it is going DOWN in relation to the other cable, but it isn't. It will go to the TOP of the elevators. So looking at the left side of the photo, the cable that is highest in the photo is the LEFT cable in the pulley and is coming from the rear stick and goes up to the top of the elevators.)


I also like to go ahead right now and install the barrel connectors that will be installed on the ends of these cables usually later as you finish the plane and install the elevators. It's much easier to screw them on now than later after cover and you have very limited space to work in. Here is a picture of that drawing showing the parts in yellow highlighter which connector goes where. The shorter one goes on top and the long one on the bottom. NOTE.....these barrel connectors will only screw onto the ends of the cables COUNTER CLOCKWISE and it will only work on 1 END OF THIS CONNECTOR. So try to screw it onto the cable counter clockwise and if that doesn't work, flip it over and the other end will screw on.


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Then just put a few tie wraps together and just pull them up tight and out of the way of the cover until you go to finish the plane later. By labeling the cables UP and DOWN and installing these connectors now, you'll save yourself alot of time and effort later.

ELEVATOR ADJUSTMENT SCREWS. I also go ahead and screw in the NAS428-4-11 bolts with AN315-4R nuts into the back of the fuselage shown on the figure there at the back side of the fuse. These bolts will later be used to set the angles of the elevator when we rig everything up and easier to get them started now while we have lots of room to work.

Now is a good time to sand the powder coat off the back of one of the screw holes in the data plate holder. Later we will have to put a ground wire on this little bolt that goes through here holding on the data plate. I sand the bottom, aft hole as it's easiest to reach later when the plane is covered and painted.



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(sand back side (inside) of this bottom, aft hole of the data plate holder)


The front floorboard pulley cover hardware is the HDW-S4R.25TA. Use #50 bit to match drill.

SEAT BELT SCREW HOLES. Be sure and drill out the front seat belt holes Page 15.7.

I HAVE 32 HOURS AND 30 MINUTES TO THIS POINT IN THE FUSE BUILD. I'm also on jury duty all week, so the build will go slowly the rest of the week.

[Daveembry]

FUEL LINES, Page 17.1

Here is one of my Youtube videos going over this install: https://youtu.be/W6meHtv3qzQ

The manual is pretty self explanatory. Just use FS35 to see where the lines go. Just run them a little long and tape in place to start with and when we put the connectors/fitting on, we will trim to exact length as we go. just start around the fuel selector valve and work out from there.

Looking (and enlarging) the Dropbox manual figures are always easier to see/read than the printed version. On Dropbox, you can select to DOWNLOAD in the top, right corner and save the manual to your hard drive on a pdf. Then you don't need to be online to use the manual and also the pdf is easier to work with I think. You can press and hold ctrl and the shift key and then while holding both down, press either the "-" or the "+" key and it will rotate the pages making it fast and easy to flip some of the figures around to read more easily.

A little tubing cutter makes it easier but not necessary.

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I just go ahead and cut the fuel line to fit and connect them loosely to the connectors as I go but you may want to just lay them out and then go back like the manual shows. You can always run the excess out the top of the fuse where they go to the fuel tanks (4 places, front and rear on each side)

In about an hour I have them all run and here is how they will look before we do any of the chase protection, etc.

NOTE: The photo below actually shows 1 wrong fuel line routing. The one that goes from the front, right fuel tank across the front by the firewall and around the left side. In this photo I have it going OVER THE TOP of that top tube on the top left side of the boot cowl/instrument panel area and if you look at the figure, (coming from the right side of the aircraft to the left) as it comes across the front of the fuse and turns back towards the rear on the left side of the boot cowl area, it should go UNDER that top tube and angle downward towards the fuel selector and not OVER like it is in this photo. I corrected it later when I was double checking everything.

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NOTE: This photo is WRONG. The fuel line goes UNDER the tubes there on the left side before it goes back through the grommet and then attach to the T.


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NOTE: You don't need to leave as much excess coming out the tops of the fuse in the 4 locations where it will attach to the fuel lines. Probably 6" out past the tabs is enough. If you use as much as I did you will probably run short about a foot for the fuel line, so cut it a little tighter.

Also, a hint to installing rubber hoses onto fitting or in this case, pushing fuel lines through tight rubber grommets in the fabric spacers on the sides is very easy if you spray the grommet and the hose with some Armorall. It will evaporate away with no residue and the hoses will just slide right on.


CONNECTORS

A habit I started was blowing hard through every segment of the fuel lines before I connect them all together just to be sure there isn't anything in them before sealing up. I immediately cover the open ends of the fuel lines with tape. You never know when a spider, or bug or other "stuff" could get down in one. I never take the tape off the masking tape that comes on the fuel tanks until the time I get ready to put the caps on them and put fuel in them either.

Go back to my post #40 and see the photos and info on installing the fuel line inserts into the compression nuts.

Here is a run down of the metal and plastic fittings:

1. All the plastic fittings/nuts. Put a reinforcement insert into the end of the fuel line before screwing on the nut. You will use NO THREAD SEALER OF ANY KIND.

NOTE: The last kit I got has the inserts in TOTE 1 and it was numbered 259N06 and the manual called out for an HDW-261-765 on Page 17.6 and Photo 199.

2. All the metal compression nuts (all the fittings that have the fuel lines going into them) will have the same reinforcement insert into the end of the fuel line itself and will also.have the plastic compression fitting that goes into the nut and goes through the nut (see my previous post showing these). You will use NO THREAD SEALER OF ANY KIND.

3. We discussed the fittings that go into the actual fuel selector in a previous post in this thread so you can go refer to it. It will have Loctite 567 thread sealer on their threads.

In the photo below, the red and yellow arrows point to the plastic and metal fitting that will all get the insert into the fuel line and use no thread sealer and the green arrow points to the fittings into the fuel selector valve that will have 567 thread sealer.


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You will install all the fitting. For the plastic fittings see page 17.14 and it will show that after you "finger tighten" the plastic nuts, put some sharpie dots a shown in the photo and then tighten them further 1-1/2 to 2 turns more.

For the aluminum nuts, 2-1/2 turns past finger tight or until it bottoms out. SEE PAGE 18.5 at the end of the chafe protection section.

[Daveembry]

FUEL LINES

Protective tubing

UPDATE Feb/2023. Now I see they have updated to use the clear, plastic RM1004-001 "spiral wrap" instead of the previous method of installing the pieces of larger tubing. So in these instructions where it shows the tubing, just replace with the spiral wrap.

I don't "slide" the larger "protective tubing" over the fuel lines, I cut it open and just put it over the fuel line where I need it (the manual says this is OK in the first paragraph in red). There are some obvious places now where you will want to put this but many of the places, especially around the front of the fuse where the electronics and boot cowl will go, are better to just wait until later and see exactly where it needs to go. When you put in the instrument panel, wiring harnesses, etc., you will probably shift things around a bit while you are working and best to just wait and secure this area then.

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Also, the interior panels have cut-outs built into them so they have to go in a specific place. The chafe protection that goes over the fuel lines and the protective tubing just wraps around it, so it's very simple later to spread it open and apply the protective tubing later as you see where it's needed.

If you look at PAGE 17.11 and Photo 161; those 2 standoffs should be about 10" and 12-5/8" forward of where the A pillar meets the top tubes there where they will be installed. If you put that front, left panel in place, then you can see where the 2 cutouts are (at the dimensions I just gave). If you attach them to that top tube at the 10" and 12-5/8" spots, then it should work. Also, the bottom of the fuel line coming in front of that can not be any lower than 2-1/4" below the TOP of that tube.

You can put the protective tubing and friction tape in place but don't tie wrap it onto the fuse yet until after you have put on the chafe protection around all the fuel lines.

At the tops/ends of the 4 fuel lines that are going up to the top of the fuse for the front and rear tank lines, just run the chafe protection for now up past the window attach fitting and don't secure it there yet because you will be trimming this to fit when you install your wings at finish.

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Here I will copy CHUCK AND RYANS BUILD TIPS regarding the fuel line protective tubing and leak testing. Thanks again Chuck & Ryan!



Fuel Lines

1. After setting the fuel lines in place, test fit the forward left and right interior panels. They have cut outs for the fuel line supports and you will know if you got the supports in the correct location while they can still easily be relocated.




2. Protective hose about an inch long is supposed to be slid on to the fuel line to protect the line when the plastic ties are pulled tight. Yea, sure. Sliding a section of that covering line a few feet is like pulling up a 50 pound boat anchor without a windlass. Once the one inch pieces were cut we simply split one side length wise and snapped it over the desired location, then taped the ends with friction tape to hold it in place per the manual.





3. We checked for leaks per the updated on line manual: using a bit of compressed air and soapy leak tester. BORING. Did not find any evidence of leaks and had a soapy mess on all the joints. I much prefer the balloon technique, which I have now refined to a fine art since an earlier post.

First, the fuel tank lines on the left side were connected with a section of 3/8” hose. The clamps have to be really tightened down to prevent any slow leaks.

Second, a balloon is placed on the right side, aft tank line. This is the most distant point from the gascolator. I placed a short section of 3/8 hose and put the balloon opening over that hose to assure a tighter fit. Electrical tape made a good seal around the balloon.

Third, the aft drain was sealed with a threaded plug. The forward drain and the right forward fuel tank lines were sealed with a bolt, section of hose, and hose clamps. This left only the gasolator line open.



Fourth, a balloon was inflated and taped on the fuselage as a ‘control’. Finally, the balloon on the aft right fuel tank line was inflated by blowing through the only open line to the gascolator (No compressor necessary!) After the balloon was inflated it was sealed with a section of hose, bolt, and clamps.



Now the hard part. Waiting. I set this up a several days ago and both the control and test balloon are still inflated. I am much more confident that the system is leak free with these balloons than with the silly soapy mess.

THANKS AGAIN CHUCK & RYAN.



Now I'll add just a bit info and more photos. I did sand down the stringer on the right side under the baggage door where the fuel line goes down through and put protective tubing there as well. There was no hole or opening there for the fuel line to go through so I just sanded a slot in it to let the fuel line go down without any pressure being on the stringer.


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To do the fuel line leak test, you will need to find your fuel selector switch handle (the red one) and be sure the fuel selector is pointing UP which is for BOTH TANKS.

NOTE: Test with the fuel selector switch is all 4 positions. I spray a little soapy water on the fuel selector itself around the handle. There were some problems (me included) that had fuel selector switches that had bad o-rings in them. Later they began to leak and stained the finished paint and are a paint to replace after cover and interior panels are in place.

Just rotate the selector around several times from BOTH to RIGHT, LEFT, OFF, etc. to be sure there are no leaks in all these positions. If it does, get the replacement o-rings from CC and they are easy enough to replace now. See a few later posts about replacing the orings in the fuel selector (around post #196 or so). Usually if the fuel selector valve has sat for some time on the shelf, the grease on the orings may get a white "chalky" substance on them and they can "seep" or leak slowly. These can usually just be cleaned and new oring lubricant put on.

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You will also need to put a plug into the rear, low point drain. Just use the quick drain plugs with the kit SP60002-002.

The rest I think you have explained above OK. Here's more photos.

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I have the balloon connected to the front of the right fuel tank line. It really doesn't matter because all the lines are linked together with the fuel selector on BOTH.


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Here you can see how we use the fuel line, clamps and bolt in the end to put over the fuel line.


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The balloon is just put on the fuel line after using denatured alcohol to clean the fuel line of all grease, etc. and wrapped with electrical tape stretched tight.


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Here are the 2 lines that will go through the firewall. The top one is coming from the fuel selector and send fuel to the gasolator that will be just on the other side of the firewall. The bottom line is going to the front low point drain. Both of these lines are also blocked off.


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Here you can see how you can just run a longer piece of rubber hose and connect the 2 ends of the fuel lines on the left side of the plane. This way the air can just go right on through.

NOW I KEEP MY FINGERS CROSSED AND HOPE TOMORROW MORNING THE BALLOONS WILL STILL HAVE AIR IN THEM!!

On the next page, I'll have more photos of the fuel lines installed.

[Daveembry]

FUEL LINES

Here's just a few more photos of the fuel lines run before chafe protection being put on.

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If you stick the panels in place now, just leave them and I will go over the prep we will do to them now before we cover. We will do 2 things, drill the holes in the panels that go into the floorboard and other panels to join them and will install some "web pockets" in the panels to hold maps, sick bags, etc etc.

[Daveembry]

VERTICAL FIN

Page 19.1 in the manual. Self explanatory but wanted to let you know that the pins you need TC3029-003 are found in your FINISH KIT/PACKING LIST. Mine was in SKP 4.

Also, you are going to need a LOOONG 1/4" drill bit. I got a set of 3 at Harbor Freight and a pack of 3 is almost free. This is so you can drill out/ream the pin fittings for the stabilizers, rudders, elevators, etc.

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FS38 Section A-A shows the hardware that goes in the aft part. Don't worry about the front one right now. A bracket is going to first be installed on it.

Careful when you sand down the posts to adjust the max rudder angle.......just a little sanding moves it alot so just take a little off and measure.

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Attachment 8404


ELEVATOR TRIM INSTALLATION

Page 20.1 & 20.2. Looking at FS41 You will probably have to ream the bracket hole out for that pulley bolt a little with the 1/4" bit. Be sure and grease it all up good and that the pulley rotates freely. For some reason, they have all the bolt heads on the left side of the aircraft, contrary to all the rest of the aircraft where you put the bolt heads on the right side?????




Also, the last fuselage I got, the aft hole where the front of the fin goes into is NOT pre-drilled like shown in the manual, so you have to drill it out yourself. I just put it down level with the pre-drilled hole that is in front of that where the jackscrew will go.

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If you are installing a G3X Touch Exec. Glass system, then you will need to install the trim sensor. See the EXECUTIVE GLASS MANUAL on page 32 & 33 for the details on installing it. You first have to use 2 AN507C44R6 screws with AN363-440 nuts; to secure the sensor to the sensor bracket (countersunk holes on bottom where the rivet heads go) and be sure you have it so the lip on the BACK where it sits on the trim motor platform is facing DOWN.

At the end of page 20.1 the last sentence in red says to test fit the jacks crew into the fuselage. Most likely it will NOT FIT and "Spin Easily". None of mine have so far. So how do you ream out this big hole that it slides down through? You get some 100 grit sandpaper to start with and tape it to a long drill bit and wrap it around the bit. Then stick it down in the hole and sand the inside until the jack screw does go down easily with the small end in the place it goes at the bottom.

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Before installing the jackscrew and yoke assembly, I use a q-tip and put lots of grease into all the areas in the fuse where the jackscrew will go and rotate as well as inside the yoke. Then really grease up the jackscrew itself.


Well, after 2 full days my balloon is still full of air in the fuel system test so I'm removing the balloons, etc. and be sure I have all the tie wraps installed over the lines, etc around the extended baggage/floor pieces.

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I will also go ahead now and apply the Super Glue (Loctite 401; RM0568-010) to all the threads of the plastic fittings AND I will put some weigh into the bottom of the baggage floor and now take my meth and go around and apply it to all the sides, back and bottom of all the aluminum pieces.

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[Daveembry]

TRIM MOTOR INSTALLATION

As I said in the previous posts, go to the Executive Glass Manual, Page 32 & 33 for the info on installing the trim sensor. It will also have a separate wiring harness that you will run along the same left stringer that you will run the trim wiring harness. That harness also has the longer wire coming off the end that is the rudder light wires, so just route them to the rear.

Follow the manual (page 20.4) but note that before putting the trim motor in place that you will have to put the Jack Screw - Gearmotor Coupler SC97004-001 onto the shaft of the motor before installing it.

I take a blue sharpie and put some blue on the flat part of the trim motor shaft before putting the coupler over it. Later we will want to be able to look through the bottom hole in the coupler and be sure it's over the flat part before match drilling it and installing a pin and this makes it easier.

Here are a couple of photos of the old Exec Glass Manual which had some better figures with more detail than the new manual. Notice they changed the parts to install the trim sensor mounting bracket to the motor base to screws. THESE SCREWS AND NUTS ARE NOT IN THE KIT SO YOU NEED TO CONTACT CC AND HAVE THEM SEND THEM.

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NOTE: PER CC, YOU SHOULD USE BLUE AND NOT RED LOCTITE ON THE BOLTS AS SHOWN ON FS46 (bolts into trim motor). Also the new manual states this on PAGE 20-13.


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Be SURE you put 2 of the AN960-616L washers as shown on FS49 onto the jack screw. 1 goes on top and bottom (Between the jackscrew and coupler) of the fuse piece that holds the end of the jack screw. Many people don't get BOTH of these installed I hear.

FIGURE FS43 IS CORRECT BUT On page 20.4 there is an error regarding installing the Jackscrew bushing SC82103-001. (It's the bushing on TOP of the jackscrew) Drill using a LETTER F (.257) drill bit. Install XC98005-001 Sleeve, Thrust Bushing into that hole and then install the AN3-12A bolt through the sleeve and AN365-1032A lock nut on the end. So the little, green sleeve goes through the bushing. It shows this in the figure but doesn't mention it in the written portion.

NOTE: I have had big trouble on every one of my fuses on that top nut that is welded onto the trim motor platform that holds the R28 screw for the trim stop. The screw will NOT go through it and if you try and force it, it will jamb completely up and you can't get it out. So, I run the top screw down from the top first to clear it or you may have to run a tap through them if you can't get them to go all the way in but DON'T try and force the screw through that. I think the welding heat causes problems. The screws just won't fit. I've been cutting off those top screws about 1/4" so they don't get bound up.

Moving to FS43 and FS47 I have written in which switch goes on the top (UP) and bottom (DOWN) positions on the yoke. This comes from FS48 shown later.

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Note that the AN936-A3 part numbers called for along with the 3-48x .50 screws and AN960-C3L washers that mount the trim switches to the yoke are for star washers and ARE NOT IN THE KIT.

You will have to hook up the power wires to the trim motor. The wires in the harness are marked Pos (+) and Neg (-) and Pos goes to the red wire on the trim motor.

Route the wires per the manual up through the front fabric spacer and the ORANGE WIRES all go down and through the space on the left side of the floorboard and then just tucked up out of the way in the belly for now. The 2 WHITE WIRES LB15A18W-4 from the rudder lights and GEA0B24-3 from the trim motor position sensor will end up hooking up to the wiring harness under the boot cowl/instrument panel area so just bring it up in that area for now and secure it.


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Regretfully, the yoke I received was not tapped out for the jackscrew so I am waiting to get another one from CC, so will come back later on Post #58 to install the yoke and jackscrew, limit switches, etc. later.

NOTE.....I FINISHED THE INSTALLATION OF THE TRIM MOTOR ON POST #58.

SIDE FABRIC SPACERS

NOTE: It's a bit easier to fit your interior panels before installing the side spacers if you are going to install screws and nutplates (like I do) to install the panels instead of the black, plastic push rivets they call for. That's because it will make it easier to install the nutplates that will have to go in the floorboard there behind the fabric spacers and they are impossible to get to after the spacers are installed (or at least "harder". You have to use a pop rivet instead of a squeeze rivet if you do.

The side fabric spacers are pretty straightforward. I like to use clothespins on the fronts. I use the rudder pedal to use a tie wrap and pull in that bottom stringer flush then use the meth per manual.

You will see in the manual how both bottom stringers at the front will have to be pulled inward and held with tie wraps and then meth applied to hold them inwards. Just move them in enough to be flush with the fabric spacers.

Also, the left side middle stringer may need to be trimmed on the inside, front end so it can be pushed back so it also does not push out on the fabric spacers.


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You can sand/cut the stringer down where it touches the fuse here just where the finger is pointing.


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You can see looking down, where that stringer is pushing the fabric spacers out.


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