<Archive Thread> Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

[Daveembry]

This is a closed archive thread of EX3 tips and hints posted by user Daveembry. - CubCrafters Admin.

If you need help with your Carbon Cub, please call CubCrafters kit support at (509) 248-9491 or email:

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[Daveembry]

INDEX OF POSTS AND SUBJECT IN THIS THREAD

This is a last minute add-on I added after the thread was finished to help find certain subjects in the thread since different subjects are covered in different posts. Generally, I have followed the order of the build in the thread......in other words.....I wrote this thread as I actually built the airplane. Most of the time you will notice it pretty much follows the order of the manual but in many instances, I have found that doing certain items out of order makes it easier and in a few instances, I had to skip ahead and start other sections while waiting on missing parts to be delivered.


ALSO, I have a YouTube channel with over 100 videos showing how I did many of the more difficult areas.

https://www.youtube.com/user/daveembry85/videos

• Post 1 - General Information about the build and the process
• #2 - TOOL LIST. DRILL BIT SIZES CHARTS
• #3 - TOOL LIST ATTACHMENT; WING BUILD START; ORGANIZING PARTS & INVENTORYING; ROTATOR INFO
• #4 - WING BUILD/DIAGONAL TUBES; MAKING "DOUBLE RIBS"; SPAR ATTACH FITTINGS
• #5 - DRAG WIRES; MACHINED RIBS
• #6 - NOSE RIB PREP; TRAMMELING THE WING
• #7 - REAR SPAR REINFORCEMENT; PULLEY BRACKET

• #8 - TAIL RIBS; MACHINED CLIPS
• #9 - NOSE RIBS; CAPSTRIP ON #5 DOUBLE RIB
• #10 - CAPSTRIP ON #1 & #3 DOUBLE RIBS; BOTTOM CAPSTRIP ON #1 DOUBLE RIB
• #11 - #3 RIB BRACING; #2 FALSE RIB; FLAP FALSE SPAR INSTALL; AILERON FALSE SPAR; AILERON HANGAR BRACKETS
• #12 - AILERON FALSE SPAR more detailed. WING WIRING
• #13 - PITOT TUBE TUBING; LANDING LIGHTS; RIB FAIRLEADS; LEADING EDGE SKIN PREP
• #14 - OUTBOARD RIB AND CROSS BRACE (Jump to post #22 to finish leading edge skins and wing)
• #15 - MAGNETOMETER BRACKET AND WIRING IN RIGHT WING

• #18 - CAPSTRIP PART NUMBERS LISTED FOR RIGHT WING

• #19 - COVER; TAILFEATHER COVERING; GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS ABOUT OVERING, USING POLY TAK AND POLY BRUSH; ELEVATOR COVER; STABILIZER COVER
• #20 - STABILIZER COVER FINISH
• #21 - COVER - RUDDER
• #22 - LEADING EDGE SKINS INSTALLED
• #23 - LEADING EDGE SKINS FINISHED; LANDING LIGHT LENS HOLDER
• #24 - WING TIP BOW; NUTPLATES AROUND FUEL TANK
• #25 - FUEL TANKS

• #26 - PULLEYS & CABLES; FUEL TANK GROUND WIRES; RIB SPACER BLOCKS; ADDITIONAL HOLES FOR FABRIC; HARDWARE ON CABLE ENDS - Shackles
• #27 - COVERING THE WINGS (PREP & COVER)
• #28 - SUMMARY OF COVERING THE WING

• #29 - TAPES; GROMMETS & FABRIC PATCHES ON WING; LANDING LIGHT DETAIL
• #31 - WING TAPES & PATCHES & RIVETS; TIPS ON USING POLYBRUSH ON TAPES
• #33 - POLY FIBER TIPS ON MIXING AND USING BRUSH & SPRAY

• #37 - PUTTING FUSE ON BOGERT ROTATOR; FUSE INSPECTION; BRAKE LINE CONNECTORS FOR STAINLESS STEEL LINES; PEDALS & TORQUE TUBE INSTALL; FUEL SELECTOR ASSEMBLY; FLOORBOARD INSTALL; REAM FUSE HOLES; INSTALL UNDER SEAT PARTS IN ADVANCE

• #38 - BOTTOM PULLEYS & CABLES; EXTENDED BAGGAGE PANELS & DOOR

• #39 - EXTENDED BAGGAGE DOOR ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION
• #40 - REAR SEAT CABLE INSTALL; RUDDER CABLE FAIRLEADS; ELT ANTENNA INSTALLATION; ELEVATOR CABLE FAIRLEAD BLOCKS; FUEL LOW POINT DRAIN
• #43 - THROTTLE QUADRANTS
• #44 - STRINGERS; SEAT BASE; BATTERY BOX; TORQUE TUBE INSTALL; CONTROL STICK STUBS; AILERON STOP PLATE
• #45 - HEATER DUCT; RUDDER/BRAKE PEDALS; INSTALL FLOORBOARD
• #46 - PEDAL SPRNGS; PULLEYS & CABLES; SEAT BELT SCREW HOLES

• #47 - FUEL LINES

• #48 - FUEL LINES CONTINUED
• #49 - VERTICAL FIN; ELEVATOR TRIM COMPONENTS
• #50 - TRIM MOTOR INSTALL; SIDE FABRIC SPACERS
• #51 - INTERIOR PANELS; ADDING POCKETS
• #53 - MAP POCKETS
• #54 - INTERIOR PANELS FITTING
• #55 - RUDDER CABLES; AFT CABIN HEAT DUCT

• #58 - TRIM MOTOR INSTALL & TEST; BODY FILLER

• #59 - BOOT COWL BUILD PART 1
• #60 - BOOT COWL BUILD PART 2
• #61 - FUSELAGE FINISHING UP FOR COVER; COVERING FUSE PREP
• #62 - FUSE COVERING
• #63 - TAIL FEATHER COVERING; HOW TO ADD BRUSH AROUND RIVETS
• #64 - MY POSITIVE PRESSURE PAINT BOOTH
• #65 - COVERING ELEVATORS; PREPPING FOR ELEVATOR TRIM TABS

• #68 - FLAP HANDLE ASSEMBLY

• #70 - WIRING G3X TOUCH; INSTALL FLAP HANDLE; DOOR HEADER PANELS; SOLENOIDS; INSTRUMENT PANEL
• #71 - WIRING CHART I MADE; CONNECTING WIRES
• #72 - WIRING CONT.
• #73 - WIRING - SETTING UP AND TESTING THE SYSTEM
• #74 - AUTOPILOT SERVO INSTALLATION - ROLL SERVO
• #75 - AUTOPILOT SERVO INSTALLATION - PITCH SERVO
• #76 - PREP BELLY PAN FOR SCREWS; THROTTLE & PROP CABLES; TAILWHEEL INSTALL; 3X3 GEAR INSTALL

• #77 - SEAT BELTS; BOOT COWL; FIREWALL CABLES & WIRES; FUEL PUMP; GASOLATOR

• #78 - DEFROSTER INSTALL; HEATER BOX; MANIFOLD PRESSURE FITTING

• #79 - FIREWALL WIRE ROUTING & INSTALLING BOOT COWL; ENGINE MOUNT; INSTRUMENT PANEL VINYL; CONNECTING FUEL LINES TO GASOLATOR AND LOW POINT DRAIN
• #80 - FIREWALL POPULATING WITH PARTS AND WIRES
• #81 - ENGINE INSTALL - PRE-INSTALL ITEMS
• #82 - ENGINE INSTALL CONTINUED. INSTALL ENGINE TO MOUNT
• #83 - ENGINE INSTALL - COMPLETING INSTALL
• #84 - ENGINE INSTALL - THROTTLE BRACKET; ALTERNATE NOICE FILTER; OIL PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT; PROP GOVERNOR INSTALL; BAFFLES;
• #85 - ENGINE INSTALL - CHT PROBES; BAFFLES (CONT); OIL COOLER; GROUND WIRE ATTACH; SNIFFLE VALVE; BAFFLE SEALS

• #88 - STARTER WIRE; SIDE DOOR; IGNITION SENSORS; MIXTURE CABLE; THROTTLE CABLE; FIREWALL HOLE SEALING; FUEL PUMP DRAIN HOSE; EXHAUST PIPES

• #89 - HEAT MUFFS; ALT AIR ATTACHMENT; EGT PROBES; BAFFLE SAFETY WIRE; IGNITION COIL MINI-SENSOR ADJUSTED
• #90 - PROP INSTALL
• #91 - ENGINE COWL
• #92 - ENGINE COWL CONT.; OIL DOOR
• #93 - DOOR HANDLES; EXPERIMENTAL STICKER; STATIC PRESSURE LINES; HEATER BOX/DEFROSTER HOSES; REAR BAGGAGE CARPET; WHEEL TORQUE PLATES; INSTALL EXTENDED BAGGAGE DOOR
• #94 - BRAKE LINES; INTERIOR PANELS; PLACARDS; D WINDOWS; FLAP CONES; WINDOW FRAMES (continued in #95)
• #95 - WINDOW FRAMES; LATCHES/CATCHES(CONT); BATTERY BOX; REAR SEAT AND SEAT HOLDER; HORIZONTAL STABS; MOUNTING TIRES ON RIMS; WHEEL/BRAKE INSTALL ON LANDING GEAR; GETTING ITEMS NEEDED FOR CERTIFICATION

• #103 - PAINTING VORTEX GENERATORS; MAGNETOMETER MOUNTING
• #104 - BRAKES & WHEELS; WING PREP; STALL WARNING; VORTEX GENERATORS; TURTLE DECK RIVETS
• #105 - RUDDER & ELEVATOR TRIM TABS; WING & RUDDER LIGHTS; FLYING WIRES; RUDDER CABLE HOLES IN FUSE
• #106 - FLYING WIRES (cont.); ELEVATORS
• #107 - TIPS FOR ELEVATOR INSTALL BY PETE DOUGHERTY

• #108 - MORE TIPS FOR ELEVATOR INSTALL

• #109 - ELEVATORS - ADJUSTING; RUDDER & RUDDER CABLES
• #110 - WINGS; JURY STRUT I-BOLTS; HARDWARE LIST FOR WINGS & STRUTS
• #111 - REGISTERING THE AIRCRAFT WITH FAA
• #114 - JURY STRUTS; PITOT TUBE HOSES; FUEL SIGHT GAUGES;
• #115 - FLIGHT TESTING
• #116 - WINDSHIELD
• #117 - WINDSHIELD (cont.); A PILLAR WIRING; HEADSET HOOKS; AILERON CABLES
• #122 - AILERONS

• #123 - FLAPS
• #124 - SKYLIGHT & TURTLE DECK; ANTENNAS
• #125 - GETTING READY FOR THE FSDO OR DAR INSPECTOR
• #127 - FUEL TANK COVERS; FLAP GAP SEALS; OAT PROBE INSTALLATION
• #128 - SNAP VENTS; SIDE WINDOWS
• #131 - FUEL TESTING; CONNECT PITOT TUBE; AUTOPILOT SERVOS. - PITCH & ROLL; BELLY PAN INSTALL

• #132 - FRONT SEAT; BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT; BEFORE FIRST ENGINE START; G3X SETUP; SETUP ADHRS; ADSB; AUTOPILOT; MAGNETOMETER; WT & BALANCEFUEL QUANTITY RESET; TRIM POSITION INDICATOR SET; FIRST ENGINE START
• #133 - OIL DOOR LATCH
• #134 - CONNECT ELT COAX TO ELT; FILLING/BLEEDING BRAKE MASTER CYLINDERS
• #135- CHECK FLYWHEEL TIMING RING
• #138 - FIRST FLIGHTS - ENGINE OIL; “BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT: DOCUMENT; CHECKLIST BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT; COMPLETE LIST OF ITEMS TO DO BEFORE FLYING
• #139 - TESTING & TROUBLESHOOTING; TAPE OFF OIL COOLER; OTHERS ITEMS OF CONCERN

• #143 - ALERTS VOLUME ADJUSTMENTS (MINE WAS TOO LOW)
• #144- PILOT OPERATING HANDBOOK
• #145 - BATTERY TENDER; EAA SEMINAR ON G3X TOUCH LINK
• #146 - ALERTS VOLUME ADJUSTMENT FOR THE COM RADIO
• #147 - AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE MANUAL (PDF)
• #148 - AUTOPILOT SETTINGS
• #153 - PART CHANGE NOTIFICATION FOR ELEVATOR BUNGEE CABLE

• #160 - Carbon Cub Tool List on Excel Spreadsheet
• #162 - List of EX3 data such as consumables (oil, plugs, grease, oil, etc) and G3X Settings and Manual location
• #164 - Connecting the front stick#wiring to the harness
• #165 - Window Latches on wing
• #167 - Testing the magnetometer wiring
• #168 - FDGH PPG new paint Mixing instructions and links to PPG Spec Sheets
• #171 - Fuel Flow form to measure and document fuel flow for FAA (not required but highly recommende)
• #178 - Adjusting the Acme Stinger Tailwheel
• #187 - Link to many Youtube videos of installation of many EX3 parts
• #190 - 40 amp fuse replacements
• #199 - Fuel Selector maintenance/repair
• #202 - Index of posts
• #206 - Wiring the IFR panel with GNC 355, GMA245R, GTR20R, G5

TOOLS

NOTE: Look in the next post (#3) for an Excel File I added with a full list of tools, where to get them and prices, etc. This was done by Jon Hullsiek and passed on to me in October, 2019. I couldn't add it to this post because you can only put 12 files (photos, files, etc) per post and this one was already full.

ALSO.....(Update Nov 2021). I found some of the original invoices where I did my tool purchases and made a pdf copy of them and they are also found as an attachment in the next post #3. You can see exactly what I ordered and from whom.

The manual has a good list of tools and I think you can order the "kit" directly if you want. Aircraft Spruce and of course Amazon is a great source as well as Cleveland (who bought out Avery) http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Browse...departments/1/. Here are some links to the more common tools.

• Pneumatic riveter. I use these for pop rivets and also will pull the cherry max rivets. https://www.amazon.com/pounds-Pullin...atic+rivet+gun
• Tubing cutter (for fuel lines, etc.) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• Microstop countersink. (You will use this alot for countersinking rivets. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
• Hand rivet squeezer. You will use this alot. There are many types of these but you will need also need the dies that have the flush head (for setting countersunk rivets with flat heads) and also the dies for the round headed rivets. https://www.amazon.com/SQUEEZER-TUBU...+hand+squeezer. You will also need the dimpling dies in 2 different sizes.
• Compass. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• Spring Clamps. You need about 60. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Ha...vZc266Z1z0r0cf
• Drill Jig used for drilling spar for leading edge skins, etc. It's a bit nerve wrecking when drilling into the spar to be SURE you are not hitting the bulb inside. This gives you peace of mind if you are building an EX2 because those skins are not pre-drilled. However the EX3 skins are pre-drilled correctly so this isn’t needed for them. Just see post 22 and as I explain, just be sure the skins are flush with the bottom of the spar and then match drill. These jigs are sold here https://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/d...aspx?id=AE1145

Spar drill jig.jpg


Spar drill jig 2.jpg

• Dremel Tool. I use the dremel to do all my cutting on metal and carbon fiber using a metal cutoff wheel and sandpaper drums to smooth out cuts. Works great and more precise than a larger, air tool.
• Flameless solder tool. The kit will use mostly "solder sleeves" to solder wires together. Much easier than hand soldering. It uses sleeves with solder and heat shrink all in one and you use this flameless tool to melt the solder ring inside the sleeves. https://www.amazon.com/Steinel-Therm...inel+flameless

Attachment 7743

3F499CB8-02AE-4272-8FED-AA278101591B.jpg

Solder Sleeves. You will get some with the kit but this is what they look like. https://www.amazon.com/26-24AWG-Waterproof-Terminal-Connectors-Soldering/dp/B01APDKV3W/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1528205878&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=solder+sleeves&psc=1

P1050594.jpg

• Hemostat clamps. I have 3 sizes of these. You will be surprised how many times these come in handle to lock onto and hold things. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RPL3O8...ing=UTF8&psc=1
• Drill bits. Beside a good set of the numbered drill bits you will also need a G; C and N letter bits. They are on Amazon as well. I also just order a package of size 30 and 40 bits and toss them when they get dull. Don't forget to get the 12" long #30 and #40 bits.
• Hand Rivet Gun. I got a really cheap one because we are going to grind it to pieces to make it work! Put it on the grinder and grind it until you see the guts and then keep going!!

P1050508.jpg

P1050507.jpg

• NUT PLATE DRILL JIGS. Make drilling holes for nut plates much easier and nicer. https://www.amazon.com/Aircraft-Tool...late+drill+jig

P1050579.jpg

• Hole Finders. https://www.amazon.com/Aircraft-Tool...ds=hole+finder
• Deburring Tools. I use 2 types. https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools...deburring+tool and another I can't seem to find a link to that is hand turned. Here is a picture. It is actually an Avery Tool but I can't find it.

countersinnk.jpg

I have a chart from Cleaveland Aircraft Tool Company that I hang on the wall here and use very often. One part has the numbered drill bit sized in decimal format so I can use my Digital Compass to check my drill bits before I use them and to compare sizes between maybe the #'d bits and the regular bit sizes. You can probably find one online to print and keep handy as you will find it handy.

P1050651.jpg

P1050652.jpg

I also use lots of Denatured Alcohol. It's great for cleaning the plane and it will not interact with MEK (the ingredient in the Poly tak, brush and spray) or hurt paint or anything else in the airplane build that I am aware of and its great for getting rid of any oils, etc. on the surfaces before applying brush, spray, paint, etc.

P1050593.jpg

Also, it works great for removing any sharpie marks you have made. I just wait until I'm ready to start covering the parts and I use an air nozzle and spray everything off very good being sure to get rid on any metal shavings, rivet washers, etc etc and then go over everything with a rag and some denatured alcohol. Stay away from any silicone based lubricants like WD40. If you spray that in the garage where ANY little bit of it in the air gets on a covered surface.......problems. (fisheyed paint)

[Daveembry]

WING BUILD

Aileron False Spar

FIRST, INSTALL THE 2 TAIL RIBS BETWEEN RIBS 7 & 8 WE LEFT OUT PREVIOUSLY UNTIL WE HAD INSTALLED THE AFT RIB REINFORCEMENT BRACKETS.

The manual is pretty straightforward here. Just note the the aileron false spar has 2 sections. The INBOARD end of the INBOARD section (XC31034-001) (in the inboard end of the aileron false spar) goes UNDER the flap false spar piece where it meets the machined rib and .........

the INBOARD end of the OUTBOARD part (XC31033-001) of the 2 piece aileron false spar goes OVER the OUTBOARD end of the INBOARD PART where it joins at tail rib #9 ON THE TOP OF THE WING and goes UNDER the inboard piece on the BOTTOM OF THE WING. You will notice that it has to go this way in order to match drill through the parts into the tail rib because the OUTBOARD end of that INBOARD piece is pre-drilled.


P1050616.jpg
(This photo is showing where in INBOARD part of the aileron false spars meets the outboard end of the flap false spar. The false spar is on the left.)



P1060821.jpg

(This photo is the view of the right wing, rib #9 joint and shows that the inboard end of the outboard aileron false spar goes OVER the outboard end of the inboard aileron false spar.)



Also you do not have to bend the jointed areas as the manual states. The new aileron false spars have been altered by the factory to have a gap between them now so they won't actually nest into each other.

Wiring

NOTE: The latest manual update of 1/14/2022 is wrong on a couple of items here.

1. On Page 43.1 on G3X ACCOMODATIONS....this is wrong. CC confirmed they made an error putting this section in. It shows putting the GSU 25 (ADAHRS) on the front spar of the left wing. This is done on the FX builds but not on the kit builds for some reason. So DISREGARD THIS ENTIRE SECTION. Ours mounts on the tray behind the panel.

2. Page 43.2 PITOT MOUNT BRACKET. Part of it is wrong where it says to install the AN3650-1032A nuts on the bracket. You probably already installed the nutplates there....so no nut.

3. Page 44.1 WING WIRES. About 3/4 of the way down that paragraph it says "Photo 175 shows the nav ground to the outboardmost rib,....". This is wrong. Perhaps this is referring to the GSU25 ground but the wingtip wiring harness that goes out the outboard end of the front spar to the nav and strobe light does not ground there. You will notice a pre-drilled hole about 13.5" inward from the lower part of the outboard end of the front spar ....on the inside. You will also note that the orange ground wire attached to the wiring hardness has a ring connector right about at that location. Just screw or rivet the ground wire into that hole and not onto the outside rib like they say to in photo 175 (which is really a figure and not a photo on Page 44.2)

Here are pictures of the ends of the wires. You will have to drill a #40 hole in bay #9 (outboard of the intermediate nose rib in that bay....see the figure in the manual) to install the short, orange ground wire for the stall warning switch. The orange wire on the end of the wing tip lights will screw onto a pre-drilled hole that is on the inboard side of the end of the spar. The manual has call-out for the screw that works. AN530-4R4

I STRONGLY RECOMMEND DOING A CONTINUITY CHECK WITH YOUR VOLT METER BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE WIRES. You can do this anytime but it's much easier to do it before you install the wires since you can simply hold both ends of the wires in your hands and use the regular voltmeter leads now.

P1050572.jpg

P1050573.jpg
(Wire for landing light is taped onto the spar just inboard of the #6 center rib.)

P1050574.jpg
(Wire for Stall Warning is taped onto the outboard side of the bay 9 intermediate rib .....so it's in bay 9 just before rib #10)

P1050575.jpg

P1050576.jpg

HEATED PITOT WIRING

If you are installing a heated pitot (Gap 26 Garmin) then here is the list of “Heated Pitot” items that you should get from CC.

4F4FEA88-9007-4852-B0B0-6F2EE60391DC.jpg

In the kit there should be some wires 14 Awg in a bag. All the wires should be labeled “Pitot +” and “Pitot -“. There should be a pair of those wires that is shorter and has 2 ring terminals on the ends, one smaller than the other. This pair of wires will be used later to connect to the wires coming out of the wings and will connect to the switch on the panel.

6F6023FC-C403-4584-AC95-47B58D7E1F30.jpg

There should also be another pair of wires about 8! Long with no terminals on them (just bare ends) and labeled the same. These are the wires that go into the wing before cover. Just run them along with the pitot tube hoses and let 1’ extend past the end of the wing at the root and 1’ coming out at the pitot bracket area.

Later when installing the pitot, the 2 positive wires coming out of the Gap 26 will attach to the + wire and 2 negative wires coming out of the Gap 26 will attach to the - wire. The heated pitot actually has 2 separate heated units in it so that’s why there are 2 wires - and 2 + coming out.

5141FE73-831E-40BA-B495-7BF11EFBF37C.jpg

[Daveembry]

WINGS

NOTE: Its easier at this point to jump ahead in the manual to Page 44.1 and install the 4 additional nutplates around the fuel bay instead of doing it after the leading edge skins are on (at least the 2 on the leading edge are easier). That's covered in my post #24.

Here are some links to several Youtube videos shorts I did about installing the leading edge skins. Each one is in order as I progressed instead of combining them all into 1. These are very good at showing how to do it easily.

WATCH THIS PREVIEW VIDEO FIRST: https://youtu.be/BQiEgtJ-UsQ

https://youtu.be/0TYvvIiosTs Getting started - Part 1 of installing leading edge skins.

https://youtu.be/DgaIR7XoGtg Part 2 of installing the skins.

https://youtu.be/v1n4ghL2lfo Part 3 of installing the skins.

https://youtu.be/VeWWswyURpE Part 4 of installing the skins.

Leading Edge Skins

NOTE: The EX2 and EX3 have a few differences between them when it comes to the skins.

- The EX3 skins are much thicker than the EX2 skins, so the “tin canning” affect isn’t an issue. With the EX2, you have to be careful to not let the skins “buckle” in any area because it will ‘tin can” , or wrinkle in areas. Be sure the skins are completely flat on the skin before installing the rivets.

- The first 3 inboard EX3 skins wrap completely around the spar from top to bottom. The outboard skin and ALL the skins on the EX2 wrap around the TOP of the spar but stop short of going all the way around to wrap the bottom spar. The difference in this is that with the bottom of the skins not wrapping completely around the bottom of the spar, this leaves an area open as you are installing the skin so that you can reach up and move the noise ribs if needed for alignment. The EX3 skins that wrap completely around make it so that you can not reach up and move the nose ribs from below unless you do it like I describe below about moving the nose ribs before completing the bottom wrap.

- The skins are pre-drilled on the EX3 and not on the EX2. This makes a lot of difference because with the EX2, you can set the nose ribs rigidly (like with string or fixtures) so they don’t move because YOU are going to drill the holes into the skins, so it’s not as big of a deal if the nose is an 1/8” one way or the other....BUT....with the pre-drilled skins, you must be able to move the nose ribs a little if needed to get them to align perfectly with the pre-drilled holes. So the tape method of holding the ends of the nose ribs in place is the best way. If you try to use the string or something else, you’ll most likely be sorry because the nose rib will be a little off and nothing you can do about it.

OK, we now have a set of the leading edge skin clamps (THANKS MARK!) so we can now install the leading edge skins on both wings. As I said before, please only get a set of the clamps after you have BOTH WINGS ready. It only takes a couple hours to install the skins so don't tie up a set of clamps by getting them when you first get the kit and then sit on them until you have both wings done. When you know you are close to getting both wings ready, get a set of them coming your way and then pop the skins on both wings in 1 day and then make them available .

As I said before, CubCrafters had 22 set of these they made and now I could not locate a single set available. Where are they? Most likely people got them and are just sitting on them while people that are ready for them are stalled trying to get a set. CubCrafters was kind enough to make the sets up and loan them out at no charge so let's keep them circulating. Mitch has sent me enough of the materials to make up a few more set which I will do and get them back out into circulation. Please keep them moving.

The way it works is that the person sending you the clamps will pay the shipping to you and then instead of reimbursing them, you will ship them "FORWARD" to the next person on your dime.

I think there is a lot of apprehension on installing these skins. However, it is really quite easy and fun because the wing really starts to look like a wing here. With all the holes pre-drilled for rivets, it's pretty much a no-brainer now as you just line up the holes with the centers of the nose ribs......AND IF..... you have marked the centers of the ribs with your SHARPIE.....it's quite easy. Be sure and mark the center of the TOP and the BOTTOM of the nose ribs.

P1050658.jpg

To start with, you DO still have the outboard end of your rear spar sitting up 1" higher than the other 3 points on your sawhorses right?

Following along in the Dropbox Wing Manual (yes, it's different than the current printed version I have) to layout the skins as shown on the Fig. W63 on page 173.

I do NOT like to put duct tape on the skins like they say. The stuff sticks so good to those skins that I spend more time trying to get the sticky stuff off them later that it isn't worth it. Since these skins overlap the top and bottom of the front spar, they will almost stick in place by themselves and I just use a few spring clamps to hold them generally in place until I get the top rivet in place.

The rivet holes that go into the nose ribs are pre-drilled. The side of the OUTBOARD skin that goes DOWN has the wider spacing between the 2 holes. It's the opposite for the next 3 skins.....the wider spacing goes UP. Also note that the outboard skin does not wrap all the way around and connect under the front spar. The other 3 do.

Per the manual, start on the outboard skin and let it overhang the #12 rib by 1". You really won't have to worry about this because the holes are already pre-drilled, so place that skin over the top of the spar and slide it back forth until the pre-drilled top holes are aligned over the tops of the 1st rivet hole (down from the spar) is directly over the center of each of the nose ribs. You should be able to see the BLUE LINE (if you used a BLUE sharpie like me) inside the top hole. Don't worry about the other holes yet. At this point you are not worried about the bottom of the skin at all.....just leave it where it is.

P1050661.jpg

Be sure that the skin portion that is INSIDE the bay (the part that overlaps the top of the spar and wraps down into the bay) is flush against the spar on the side and also flush with the bottom of the spar bulb area. See Fig. W62. Clamps work good just as we did on the flap false spar.

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Next, take a #30 drill and drill the top rivet hole (1st hole down from the spar). Careful not to press too hard so you push the nose rib out of the way and that you are drilling into the BLUE LINE you marked. At this point, you can still reach up under the skin and move/hold the nose ribs in place while you drill if you need to. Install a cleco or rivet. Don't drill and rivet/cleco the inside edge yet. The next inboard skin will overlap this skin and rivet all at once. It's not as important on the new EX3 because these skins are thicker than the EX2 skins which would "tin can" more, but it's still best to generally start your drilling and riveting in the center of the skins and move inboard and outboard.

The 2nd skin (from the outboard end) has the cut-out on the top for the pulley bracket that is on the top of the spar. Just bend, push/pull and it will go over it. Then just line up the pre-drilled holes in outboard end of this skin with the pre-drilled holes that are in the inboard end of the outboard skin. Check now to be sure you have again lined up all the top rivet holes for this skin with the BLUE LINE on the nose ribs. Move things around and then clamp in place again being sure to have the inside portions of the skins flush with the side and bottom of the spar bulb.

Drill and rivet or cleco (I rivet.....if you are unsure....cleco for now!) all the top rivet holes on this skin.

Just continue doing the same on all 4 skins.

At this point, you should have all the top holes riveted. Now we are just going to go on down and do the 2nd row down from the spar. Same thing here........ reach up under the skin if you need to and move the nose rib around until you can see your BLUE LINE in the hole.......then while holding it there, take your other hand (your LEFT hand if right handed) and press down on the top of the skin with your fingers on EITHER SIDE of that rivet hole. When you press DOWN hard.....that rib will stay put while you reach up with your RIGHT HAND and get your drill (which of course you did leave sitting on your cart real close where you could easily reach it while still holding down on the skin) and drill the hole. Again....start in the middle of your skin and work out on either side of it. Don't press hard with your drill either as you may push the rib over to one side or the other.

BEFORE I rivet it, I put the rivet in the hole and then reach around again and feel it to be sure the hole and rivet are near the center of the nose rib before I pull the trigger. Do all the 2nd holes of the rivets.

OK.....now before we wrapped the skins around to the bottom of the spar, you DID install your landing light fixture right? (if you ordered it) in between ribs 5 & 6 right. It doesn't matter how it sits up there for now......You will reach up later and install it so just stick it up there and tape it loosely (not too much tape as you will have to take it off all shortly!).

Next I take the outboard skin (the one that does not wrap all the way around the bottom of the front spar) and just wrap it around the nose skins, lift the end of the wing at that spar and then just set the spar back down and let the skin sit there for now. All we are doing now is just getting the skins into a position so we can install the clamps.

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Go to the next skin (from this outboard skin) and then just wrap it around and kindof horse it around until you can get that lip of the bottom of the skin to go around the bottom of the spar and pop up in place. You can then just put some clamps there for now to hold it in place. Note that the ends of the intermediate nose ribs will go inside the cutouts in the skins.

NOTE: As you wrap it around, look up at the very end of the nose rib and see if that rivet hole (outboard, bottom) is going to hit that rib centered over the blue line. If not, it's easy to now move it into position before wrapping the skin.

P1050665.jpg

The last, inboard skin (in the fuel tank bay) is pretty thick and harder to get up there so just so the same as what you did in the far outboard skin and just wrap it around the nose ribs and let it sit on the top of the sawhorse for now. Again, all we are doing is getting them up so we can get the clamps started.

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Go to the outboard skin, next to one of the 2 middle center ribs (there are 4 main ribs in each section with the last, inboard one being shared with the next skin) and put on 2 of the clamps LOOSELY. Just put them on enough to get the nuts started on the bolt going through the clamps. Put them about 1" or so from the vertical line of rivets in the skins that you just installed. This is to be sure and give you enough room on the bottom so you can still drill and rivet so don't get the clamps too close to the holes you intend to work on.

Then, go under the skin and look up and line up the nose ribs.....again looking for the BLUE LINE ......in the holes. The outboard skin is no big deal because since it doesn't wrap around the spar, you can still get to the rib and move it a little each way to get the rib centered on the hole.....you can't do that with the other 3 skins. Once you wrap that skin around the bottom of the spar, you can't EASILY reach those ribs again.

If you got the top 2 holes centered up nicely, then the bottom 2 holes should be real close. If they aren't lines up on the 3 more inboard skins, you can always push something down through the ends of the nose ribs from either the outboard or inboard end....and push on the nose rib a bit. Not fun....but it works if you have to. Try to line these up the best you can BEFORE tightening up the clamps because they are pretty hard to move once the clamps are tight.

If the rib isn't lined up right.....be sure the clamps are loose on that skin and try using a sharp awl (if you can see at least "part" of the nose rib through the hole). Stick it up in the hole and poke it into the rib and then try to gently pry/nudge it in the right direction. If that doesn't work, you can also take a long screwdriver, etc. from the inboard side of the spar and run it down the nose rib where it sticks out under the spar. See if you can "nudge" it over this way. If that doesn't work, then take a long "something" and you can come in through the end (either at the wing root or wing tip end) and do the same thing. I actually have a "Hawaiian sling" that I use to spearfish with. It's a long fiberglass pole that fits nicely down through all the nose ribs. Just be sure you have doing all your moving with the clamps off or loose. Once they are tight it's pretty much impossible to move those nose ribs.

Once they are lined up, just tighten the clamps until they are up flush around the skin all the way around (top, bottom and at the nose). If there is a gap on one side, tighten that end (top or bottom) until there is no gap. DON'T OVER DO IT..... I never use a wrench but just finger tight on the wing nuts are plenty enough. You can reach over the nose skins/ribs with one hand and let the front (outside) of the clamps hit you in the sternum and just push/pull the clamp towards the spar with your chest and using your other hand, tighten the wing nuts. When it's almost tight and only a small gap, then just use your fingers on the wing nuts to get it the final little bit. Don't over tighten or you will see the bends in the skin! Nice and snug is all you need. You will probably need to "wiggle" it left and right a little to be sure it is square with the wing. If you see a gap on 1 side and not the other, wiggle it until the gaps are equal left to right and top to bottom.

Then add another clamp to the outboard end and snug it up. Lastly, add a clamp over the joint on the next skin but just to the right of the joint. DON'T TIGHTEN THIS CLAMP YET..... just get the nuts started and leave it loose. If you tighten it now, you might have gaps in the next inboard skin so we will wait and move the clamps over to the next skin.....start in the middle again and tighten the 2 middle ones.....then move back to this clamp at the joint and tighten it.

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So in this photo above, the 2 center clamps were installed and tightened first (after being sure the nose ribs blue line lined up with the holes on the bottom. (You can move these around some if you have to now since you can reach up and grab them.) Then the left one was installed and tightened. The far right one is on the inboard side of the joint. NO RIVETS OR HOLES WILL BE DRILLED ON THIS “JOINT” YET. WE WILL DRILL AND RIVET THE JOINT WHEN WE DO THE NEXT INBOARD SKIN.

Here below you can see how the clamps are installed. Here you can see where one of the drag wires is in the way so I stacked some pieces of wood between the inboard side of the spar and the outside member of the clamp so it would clear the wire.

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So just drill the pre-drilled rivet holes and install the rivets in each section until you are done. Again......BEFORE INSTALLING THE BOTTOM RIVETS ON THE 3 INBOARD SKINS THAT WRAP AROUND THE BOTTOM OF THE SPAR, BE SURE THE LIP INSIDE IS FLUSH WITH THE SPAR BULB (Fig. W62).

Lastly, just secure the "lips" that go over and around the spar top and bottom just like you did on the flap false spar using the jig or being sure the bottom of the skin is flush with the edge of the spar bulb.

That's it. Who needs some clamps?????? :-)

[smalls]

Dave, is it possible to wrap one nose skin section at a time working from outboard to inboard with the nose skin clamps? My thought is to fit all four sections on the top of the spar and drill/cleco the first two holes in each nose rib for all sections. When it comes to wrapping the nose skin and using the clamps, if it's possible to work one section at a time it would leave more access from the side for adjusting the lower half of the nose ribs into place prior to drilling. Thanks.

"Next I take the outboard skin (the one that does not wrap all the way around the bottom of the front spar) and just wrap it around the nose skins, lift the end of the wing at that spar and then just set the spar back down and let the skin sit there for now. All we are doing now is just getting the skins into a position so we can install the clamps.

Go to the next skin (from this outboard skin) and then just wrap it around and kindof horse it around until you can get that lip of the bottom of the skin to go around the bottom of the spar and pop up in place. You can then just put some clamps there for now to hold it in place. Note that the ends of the intermediate nose ribs will go inside the cutouts in the skins.

NOTE: As you wrap it around, look up at the very end of the nose rib and see if that rivet hole (outboard, bottom) is going to hit that rib centered over the blue line. If not, it's easy to now move it into position before wrapping the skin."

[RBruhn]

Dave — I really appreciate all the effort to share your experience. I’m just starting with my EX-3 build and figuring out the best way to reference the manual, forum posts, and my own intuition (last.)

For the last year I’ve read about the dreaded cherry max rivets and I pulled some in preparation for this build. I’ve just pulled my first real ones on the jury struts and wondered if I might get some expert opinions. I’ve scoured the videos, forum posts, and even VAF to find examples of what ‘good’ looks like and suspect this has been answered before although I couldn’t find it this evening. The side closest to the squeezer looks fine to me but I wonder if the formed head (I might have the terminology backwards) looks usable but not pretty. Are these good or should I start practicing to remove them? (Center punch the mandrel, etc.). If not good, could you upload an example or two of a good one? (Both sides)

Thank you.

Matt
San Antonio

[Daveembry]

Hi Matt,

From what I can see, they look good to me. The cherrymax stem should be flush on the top where it breaks at the head. If you have the rivet gun cocked sideways where it isn’t sitting flush against the head of the rivet when you pull it, the stem can break off prematurely before it upsets or expands the back of the rivet where it locks in. If it does, you will see a hole looking down into the head where the stem broke off below the top of it and the back of the rivet will not be “mushroomed” or expanded out where the end of the mandrel or stem is. That part will be the normal size and the stem sticking out further. Look at a couple of drawings I put below.

068C8943-D5AC-4E90-AC5C-6FE5BDC302E5.jpg


If you look at the backside, you’ll see that it hasn’t expanded all the way and you’ll see part of the end of the stem sticking out because it didn’t fully seat. if it’s set all the way, the end of the stem part will be right up against the expanded part like yours are. I don’t have any photos of the backsides handy. It takes a lot more “pulling” to get the cherry rivet set into the locking ring and if you don’t have the gun flush and pull it at an angle, the stem (mandrel) may break before it sets leaving the stem broke off below the head and the backside not expanded with more stem sticking out.

85F543CB-2752-4CB0-A66E-D7DDD21CC097.jpg

They really aren’t hard to pull at all normally. Just be sure you keep the rivet gun flat against the head of the rivet completely as you pull it. That’s easy until you have to pull the “hard ones soon”, in the machined ribs. These in the photo are the hard ones because it’s very hard to get that rivet gun tip flush. I describe it more in this post https://forum.cubcrafters.com/showth...ll=1#post21588

I’ll try and get more photos for you but I think you got it right here. That stem breaking flush with the head is good.

119C0573-81A4-4DD2-B956-581643674853.jpg


D4A4BF1E-6817-4ABD-B7A6-D1EC72C80F76.jpg

Dave — I really appreciate all the effort to share your experience. I’m just starting with my EX-3 build and figuring out the best way to reference the manual, forum posts, and my own intuition (last.)

For the last year I’ve read about the dreaded cherry max rivets and I pulled some in preparation for this build. I’ve just pulled my first real ones on the jury struts and wondered if I might get some expert opinions. I’ve scoured the videos, forum posts, and even VAF to find examples of what ‘good’ looks like and suspect this has been answered before although I couldn’t find it this evening. The side closest to the squeezer looks fine to me but I wonder if the formed head (I might have the terminology backwards) looks usable but not pretty. Are these good or should I start practicing to remove them? (Center punch the mandrel, etc.). If not good, could you upload an example or two of a good one? (Both sides)

Thank you.

Matt
San Antonio

[RBruhn]

Thank you Dave! I appreciate the additional material too.

[jjoffe@me.com]

Dave Thanks
The most fun was getting the inventory counted - They really should supply a spreadsheet with linked photos.
I was lucky to have worked in a spare parts dept. as a kid so that helped a lot.

[Daveembry]

TOOL LIST

I have attached here an Excel Spreadsheet list of tools used as well as links to where to purchase, cost etc. that builder Jon Hullsiek was kind enough to make and share with me. He added items on the Cubcrafters list as well as items I had recommended and some he added. Check it out below where it is attached as an Excel File. (Look at the file attachment link at the bottom of the photo below).

Also, I have found a copy of the original invoices where I made my first tool purchases and have attached copies of them in an attachment at the bottom of this post as well. It shows the items, where purchased from, etc. and may be helpful. I'm not sure if Cleveland is still in business or not?

WINGS

VIDEO. Here is a 40 minute video on Youtube with me just going around the finished wing showing video of how it should all look and a few hints and suggestions. You might want to check it out before you start to see what your finished wing should look like.

https://youtu.be/7IHn1q5_G2E

WING SPARS

• First thing to do is to lay out the spars on your saw horses and take a red/burgundy scotch bright pad and/or 320 sandpaper and be sure and go over the spar and sand/buff out any scratches no matter how minor they seem. If you can run your fingernail across it and feel it, you need to sand it out. This would be a stress point for future cracks. Then I clean the spars well using denatured alcohol.

05652538-46C8-4860-B503-69D39B1B552E.jpeg

• Fig. W2 doesn't show the rivets for the rear spar fittings but they should be the same ones.
• You can use your hand squeeze riveter for everything except the middle hole in the front spar jury strut attach fitting. These are not shown being installed until later on in the manual but you can put them on now. You will have to buck that one or you can use a cherrymax rivet (CR3213-4-4) instead and just pull that with your hand rivet puller (or your pneumatic one). (NOTE: Updated manual shows that you can use these cherrymax rivets for ALL the holes in both jury strut attach fittings.)

3 hours 55 minutes into the build I have all attach fittings installed and tubes in place.

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NOTE: Nov. 2022. There is a new manual update (01/14/2022) where they combined the EX2 and the EX3 build into 1 manual. So, some of the references to figure or page numbers below may have changed as well as some of the errors have been corrected.

Note on 2021 WING MANUAL UPDATE

I did just looked at the new manual. Looks like the figures on WING MANUAL page 7.3 are labeled wrong.

By looking at the spar, you can see the drag wire attach fittings are on Photo 030 so that has to be a photo of the FRONT of the front spar, not the AFT side as labeled. The same for W7, it's wrong and is actually the AFT side of the left front spar.

Photo 031 shows the same....... FRONT side of the LEFT SPAR.

So the photos/figures are correct but just labeled wrong it seems.

ALSO, Figure W7 shows using AN174-6A bolts and the old manual calls for AN174-7A (see my photo above of the last manual showing the 7-A bolts) AND there are no AN174-6A bolts in the kit. You can see that the SHOULDER of the bolt with the washer under the head, does in fact work perfectly by going through all 3 parts (2 parts and spar web). The 7A bolts will work but you will just have to add washers under the nut to keep from having too many threads showing outside the nut.

You still need to use the 416L washer under the head and the 416L will work ok with the 2 L4 nuts on the bolts that you don't tighten now (because later the fuel tank straps are going to attach to these) because the tank straps will go there but the end 7A bolt on the outboard end will need 2 of the full size 416 washers under the nut so you keep the number of threads exposed under 3.

Note here that instead of using castle nuts on the 2 bolts on the front spar temporarily, I just use the correct lock nuts called for but don't tighten them for now. Anywhere on the build where I need to draw attention to the fact that I have some unfinished business (like torqueing these 2 nuts) I just use my blue sharpie and mark on the parts to flag me. Later just use a little denatured alcohol to remove any markings. Note that I always use torque seal on all nuts as soon as I torque them.

The rear spar attach pieces have to be first drilled with a LETTER C & N bit FIRST......but what they don't say is that once you have them drilled out with these bit, you have to ream the holes with a 1/4" and 5/16" reamer after you put the pieces in place and held with the big clecos (see the drawing notes). These letter bits are just under these sizes so it allows you to put the clecos and reamers into the holes and size them perfectly as you insert the bolts.

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I also have a method of pulling parts for the sections I'm working on. Note in this photo how I mark the manual figure. As I pull the parts, I lay them on the figure next to where they are shown and then take a yellow highlighter and mark that part number on the manual. Also note that I make a note on common parts in the manual as to where these parts are located. Like "T6" (Tote #6) next to part number in the manual and then when I know I'm going to have to pull these again (like at least for the right wing when I do it), I don't have to go search the parts list again to find out where that part is.

P1050484.jpg

If I am missing any parts I mark those parts on the figure with an orange highlighter, then I place the parts in one of the small, magnetic parts holders along with a note saying what those parts are for and what I'm waiting on. I then set it aside and after I email Mitch with the part numbers I'm missing and receive the parts. Then I just go back to that section and finish. Most of the time you can go ahead in the manual and work on other sections for a couple days until you get the parts. In this case I could not find my letter N and C drill bits and had to order a couple on Amazon so I set the parts I had pulled for the rear spar wing attach fitting aside until the bits arrive so I can pre-drill and then ream the holes and attach it. I went ahead and attached all the other fittings and tubes until the bits come in today. Amazon prime is great with the 2 day shipping.

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Just a note on parts management. I think one of the most time consuming things in the build is gathering parts needed for the section you are working on. First I'm sure to take a full inventory of all parts on the "Packing List" to be sure I've received them. I then unpack the parts and consolidate them into a few boxes.

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Attachment 7758

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You will notice the PACKING LISTS have a title on each page(s) like BOX 1, or SKP 1, etc. I then put several of them in big ziplock bags (for the smaller parts) into a box and label that box with the contents. Then when looking for a part from the manual, I first go to the packing lists and find it (it's in alphabetical order for each package on the packing lists), then I can simply go to the box/ziplock that has those parts and pull them.

For the big TOTES, I take the inventory list that comes with them and take highlighters and run through all the pages and simply mark them by part number, grouping the starting numbers. In this picture you can see that I used a yellow highlights and marked all the HDW parts; an orange one for all the MS type parts and the blue sharpie to mark all "OTHER" misc. numbers. I don't mark the AN parts numbers because that is the vast majority of the parts on the lists.

P1050491.jpg

Then when looking for a small parts (bolts, washers, nuts, rivets, etc) then I first go to this inventory sheet and can quickly scan the pages looking by color code first. Then when I find it, I simply go to that TOTE # (listed at the top of each page) and pull the parts.

ROTATORS

I got the Bogert rotators for the wings and fusehere https://bogertaviation.com/collectio...on-cub-rotator.

I go to Home Depot or Harbor Freight (much cheaper on everything) and get some castering wheels and added them which makes it MUCH nicer as you can just push it around in the hangar/garage, etc. and when it comes time to move from the build area to the hangar, you just wheel it up into the enclosed trailer and secure.

Note that you won’t use the rotators on the wings for the build because you have to keep a 1” block under the outboard, rear spar the entire time. You could put the wing onto the rotator to cover but for me it’s just easier to leave them the sawhorses to build and cover. They are lightweight and easy to just flip over when covering the other side.

Building the fuse if MUCH easier using the rotator.

When I build my wing holding fixture, I also add some castering wheels to them as well making them easier to move around in the build area and onto the trailer, etc.

The rotators are great for painting on both the wings and the fuse but you can only do 1 wing at a time which is OK as most paint booths aren’t large enough to hold 2 anyway.

So I build a wing on the sawhorses to the point of needing a set of wing clamps and move it to the wing dollie. Then I build the 2nd wing.......get a set of the leading edge wing clamps headed my way and then put the leading edge skins on each one and get the clamps back available for the next person that needs them so I’m not holding anyone up.

I then cover and apply tapes on the wings on the sawhorses (or you could then put it on the rotator but note you will have to remove it from then rotator and back to saw horses during the cover process anyway, so I just cover them entirely on the saw horses).

After both wings are covered, I then roll them up in the trailer and take to the hangar and cover them completely in some light plastic to keep any contaminates (like any silicone sprays, WD-40, oil, dirt, etc) off until ready to paint.

Then you can mount up your fuse onto the rotator and complete the entire build (except that you will have to take the front off the rotator when you fit and build your boot cowl) and cover. Then wheel it into the trailer and right into the paint booth. After paint, wheel it back to the build area for the remainder of the build.

For painting I use the rotator for everything. They are great for a couple of reasons. You can angle them so the paint booth lights hit the area perfect that you are spraying the paint onto and you can flip the wing over to do the opposite sides. Most of the time you will be spaying with the wings at about a 45 degree angle to get the best light.

Secondly, as you spray the paint and if you get it just a tad too thick and it starts to sag or a slight run, just tip the rotator to either level or even in the opposite direction to get the paint back flat. With the DUHS CC paint I use, it will continue to flatten out for 24 hour it seems. So just keep a good eye on the area you just sprayed and tilt the rotator as needed. If one spot has a little sag or run, just leave the rotator so that area is level and the next day you will probably see the sag or run has flowed out.

The rotators seem to have a good resale as well. They are heavy for shipping but they ship without the main piece of tubing which you buy locally. I would also get a thick wall tubing as well for mounting the wings as it does tend to bow down in the center with the tubing I got. I can’t recall the thickness but it was the recommended thickness. I would go thicker.