<Archive Thread> Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

[Daveembry]

WIRING

NOTE: If you happen to download a previous version of the chart from this post prior to Jan 4, 2023 then delete that and re-download the latest version with a few changes to include the new modular panel and the IRF panel.)

NOTE: There are 2 very good videos I did of the wiring and I have them on my Youtube channel. Here are the links:

This is the link to the first link on wiring:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIla88WwLp0&t=18s

This is the 2nd video going over all the wiring all bundled up once complete:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1quxr-BHTQQ&t=13s

I have attached to this post an Excel spreadsheet that will pretty much be all you will need to install the harnesses. NOTE THAT THIS IS FOR THE EX3 AND IS DIFFERENT FROM THE EX2 (mostly because the electric fuel pump was added) YOU CAN USE THIS FOR THE EX2 BUT JUST BE AWARE OF THIS DIFFERENCE.

Here's how it works. After we lay out the harnesses, we will simply grab a wire and look at the number (numbers and letters) on the end of the wire. Then simply go to the spreadsheet and find that wire number in the left column and then in the column next to it, see where it connects to. As I find and connect a wire, I mark it off the spreadsheet and then when finished, I look back and be sure all the wires are accounted for. This chart is for my panels which include the G3X Touch, Garmin 200 radio with the control head in the panel; 345R transponder with ADSB-In and Out (this is the remote unit); Garmin 307 autopilot with the control head in the panel and with 2 servos for pitch and roll. It does have the GAP26 AOA pitot; outside temp probe; and trim position sensor. If you equipment is different, then the configuration and wires will be different.


( Feb., 2022) NOTE: IF YOU ARE INSTALLING AN IFR PANEL WITH THE GNC 355; GAD 29; GTR 20; GMA245R AND G5, THEN HERE ARE SOME ADDITIONAL CONFIG SETTINGS YOU WILL NEED TO DO.

There is not enough room in this post to include it here so I will post these changes in the very next post.



MODIFICATIONS FOR THE NEW "MODULAR PANEL"

NOTE: Aug. 2020. If you have the new MODULAR PANEL with the cut-out for the G5, there are only a few changes and re-routing and I will post them here.

Be sure and download the MODULAR PANEL SUPPLEMENT in Dropbox for the schematics. It's the same system as the original except that some of the buses/circuit breakers/ switches have been moved to different locations. The wiring harnesses remained the same, so some of the wires in the harness are short so they have included replacement wires.

Here is a list of things I found that you have to do different. Some of these are on the Supplement and some not. Pay attention to these items to change but otherwise, the instructions and wiring chart of mine is the same. Essentially, the locations of some of the parts have moved so some of the bus power wires have changed and some extensions used.

NOTE: Many panels come from the factory with the power wires (bus interconnects) pre-wired. I have noticed that they don't necessarily use the same wire numbers that are listed in the manuals or below in my post. The important thing is to follow the power routing (as I explain later) from the SHUNT and then from there that power flows to each "bus" and powered switch or circuit breaker ...as required.

1) There should be SK71051-003 BUS Interconnects in the kit. These are some longer wires, etc. to reach between the buses (the copper bar where the power distribution goes). MB41A10 In the SUPPLEMENT see that this goes from the bus bars of the Main Bus 1 (PFD, GEA, GSU) to Main Bus 2 (AUX FUEL PUMP, R IGN BAT). You will note on the original wiring schematics and my wiring chart that MB09A10 was shown as connecting the RH MAIN bus bar (PFD, etc) to the LH MAIN bus bar (FIELD, etc) is now NOT USED.

2. A09A20O is just a longer version of the same wire that comes in your kit. It runs from MASTER SWITCH to the FIELD CB. It needs to be on the same side (left to right) on the MASTER SWITCH and OPPOSITE (top to bottom) of A09B20O wire.

3. AB99A12. If you look on the MODULAR SUPPLEMENT, this connect the bus bar of the AVIONICS 1 BUS (COMM, XPDR, GMC) to AVIONICS 2 BUS which would be for the GAD and NAV2 IF YOU HAVE THOSE. I don't have those in my panel so this bus is missing and I don't use this wire. But if you do, this will bring power to that bus.

4. MB43A12 new wire will connect the MAIN BUS 2 (AUX FUEL, R IGN BAT) to MAIN BUS 3 ​(EXT, IBBS, FIELD) bus bars.

5. There is SK71051-002 IGN LED Extension parts. Since these lights are moved from the right side to the left, these are just extension wires for IG07A22G and IG07B22G. NOTE: These wires are probably NOT LABELED as they are so small I guess but these 2 wires are the ones coming out of the OUTPUT Connectors on the RIGHT & LEFT IGNITION BOXES.

These wires are probably a black (or yellow) and a white one. The Black one should come out of the LEFT IGNITON BOX OUTPUT CONNECTOR and connects to the IGO7A22G wire which then goes along with A12A22G and solders into the IGNITION RIGHT light in the instrument panel. That is the one that has the RED wire coming out of the RIGHT LED.

The White wire should be coming out of the RIGHT IGNITION BOX and connects to the IGO7B22G extension wire that goes with the A12B22G wire which then gets soldered to the IGNITION LEFT LIGHT (has RED wire coming from the LEFT LIGHT LED in the panel)

6. There is an extra wire GSA08A22 which is probably an extension for the ground wire coming out of the 307 Autopilot head but I didn't have to use it. The original wire in the 307 Harness reached a ground just fine.

7. If you have the Autopilot and Garmin 307 head installed, you will notice that the MODULAR SUPPLEMENT does not address it at all. You will notice in the original schematics and panel that wire MB11B12 went from the AVIONICS BUS to the SERVO SWITCH but in the MODULAR layout, it goes instead to the AV SWITCH instead of the SERVO SWITCH.

8. Since the MB11B12 that originally went to the SERVO SWITCH was relocated to the AV SWITCH, we need to run wire to the servo switch. There is a schematic update in progress that shows a 14 gauge short jumper wire from the avionics bus to the SERVOS SWITCH. It will be labeled GSA10A14.

9. In the G3X Harness, there is a wire IG08C20O that originally went from the R IGN CB when it was located on the right, upper side of the panel with the other end being connected to the MAIN BUS. BUT, on the MODULAR PANEL, this wire will not be used so can be capped & stowed or discarded. The MODULAR SUPPLEMENT shows that that same wire comes out of the R. Ignition Emergency Switch and connects just below it into the R IGN CB. So connect IG08C20O from the Emergency Switch to the R Ign CB and discard that wire in the harness.

10. AB42A18 in the original G3X Harness is also NOT USED. Cap & Stow Originally it went from AVIONIC BUS to AVIONICS SWITCH.


NON-MODULAR PANEL WIRING (Original panel that does NOT have the G5 cutout on the left side)

If you do NOT have the newer, "Modular Panel", then follow the instructions below.

The spreadsheet is broken down into AREAS of the aircraft where the wire is located like "LEFT HEADER PANEL"; "THROUGH THE FIREWALL"; "UNDER THE BOOT COWL" and "UNDER SEAT WIRING". So just go to appropriate area to find the wire you have and connect it where it says to.

Start by installing the power wires that go under the seat (the big white wires, etc) and then run the left and right header panel harnesses and then the big G3X harness last.

Note that "normally", the factory will install many of the wires that are on the main instrument panel that connect buses, etc. but on my latest one they did not, so I had to connect those.

Let me first discuss some of the basics:

NOTE: If you have the new MODULAR PANEL, the buses are a little different as I explained above.

1. A "BUS" is a strip of copper that you will see attached to the tops (or bottom of light bus) of several circuit breakers or switches in the panel. It's purpose is to provide power to all those CB's or switches it's connected to. You will always need 1 wire attached to the top of each "bus" that is bringing in power. It does NOT matter which breaker you install it to on the "bus" since the power will go via the copper bar to all the breakers or switches.
a. The Lighting Bus is the short bus connecting only the 2 NAV and STROBE light switches.
b. The LH Main Bus (See page 9 of the Exec. Glass Manual) connects 3 CB's of EXT, IBBS & FLD breakers.
c. The RH MAIN BUS connects 4 CB's of FUEL PUMP, PFD, GSU & GEA.
d. The AVIONICS BUS connects GMC, COM & XPND CB's. (See page 9)
3. The EXTENDED BUS is the bus bar up in the LEFT HEADER PANEL that connects the START, STALL, TRIM & LANDING CB's.

NOTE: This last kit I got had the EXTENDED BUS PLACARD WRONG. It had "INTERCOM" on the aft breaker and it will actually be used for the START wiring. If yours is labeled like this, get MITCH to send you a correct placard. The wiring in the wiring chart is correct for this.......just the placard is wrong. ALSO, you will note on Page 9 of the manual, it shows the START breaker on the RH MAIN BUS but that really is the FUEL PUMP breaker and not the START BREAKER. My placards was correct in labeling this but make this correction in your manual. (Upper left of page).

ALSO, disregard much of the PAGE 4 schematics in the upper, left side showing the buses. This is not for the G3X so if you have the G3X, disregard most of these diagrams and instead refer to the schematics starting on PAGE 9 and labeled as "1 of 5" SCHEMATIC, EXECUTIVE GLASS TOUCH DISPLAY SYSTEM.

When wiring in circuit breakers ("CB's), the wires will attach to the side of the breakers opposite of the copper bus bar.

When wiring in SWITCHES, it doesn't matter which side of the switch you put the wires on. You can put them on the top or bottom (one wire will always be a power wire and one wire going to the item) of the switch. It it send power to the item when the switch closes the circuit.

Look starting at page 7 in the Exec. Glass Manual to see where the harnesses go. All the ground under the seat that have a BIG terminal ring will go to that ground and all the grounds up front under the boot cowl will go to any of the 4 screws you installed on the 2 ground plates there. You will find they do an excellent job with these harnesses with the wire lengths all going perfectly to the area they are suppose to go to, to get hooked up. If something isn't fitting right, check your harness layout again. (except the wires going to the ADAHRS. You will find they are Waaaay too long and you'll have to just wrap them up somewhere. At the factory, they put the ADAHRS unit out in the wing for some reason, so the harness is too long for us as we put it in the tray.)

Don't tie wrap anything until you are completely finished. Use some tape if you need to for now to hold things in place. When we are completely finished, we'll go and bundle the wires up nice and neat and tie wrap. We will probably have to relocate or re-route some to make it neater.

So I'm starting with SC70300-003 Integrated Harness Representation, Belly. There are the 2 big power wires going to the battery (one red and one black ends that will go up and connect to the battery) and a couple smaller wires that are separate.

Grab the positive cable and you will see it is Labeled P01A04W. Next look at the wiring chart on page 6 for UNDER SEAT WIRING and look in the left column and you will see this number as the 2nd one down the list. Go to the right and it says "master solenoid on 1 side and to the POS battery terminal on other end". The MASTER SOLENOID is the one on the left side and the STARTER SOLENOID is the one on the right side. Remember, don't tighten any of the nuts yet. There are more wires coming......

NOTE: I would do it different than I did in the photo here. I would attach the POSITIVE cable (P01A04W) on the RIGHT or forward side of the Master Solenoid just because later you have to attach a shorter wire from the other (Negative) side of the Master Solenoid to the 40amp fuse and it's just easier if that shorter wire is on the LEFT or AFT side of the solenoid. So put the positive battery lead on the right and the negative on the left and the other wires will also move in relation to the photo but the written description here is still good.

The other big, white wire is P06A04W. You will see it goes to "1 end to ground - other to Neg side of battery". So it connects to the big ground screw there under the belly.

The battery will go into the box with the RED, POSITIVE terminal on the RIGHT side and the NEGATIVE on the LEFT, so when you temporarily route the cable and stick them up through the battery box, just keep that in mind.

The small wire PO4A20O has a big and a small ring. The big ring end goes onto the master solenoid on the same stud you put the positive, red battery wire on and the small ring end goes on the same master solenoid but on the small post on the opposite side of the solenoid from the positive side.

The next wire you will see is P04B20O. The end with the black shrink wrap on it and small ring goes on the same small stud on the master solenoid that you just put the small ring end of the P04A20O above and the big ring end goes to the ground lug.

It's a simple as that.

Next I grab the SC70300-006 Solenoid harness. It has 1 longer white wire and 2 small wires and rubber boots. The big wire is P01C04W and the chart shows it goes to one side of the STARTER SOLENOID (the one on the right)r then route the rest of that long wire that will go to the starter, out the left side and up about halfway to the top of the fuse and outside the fuse....and then forward out the front past the firewall location. We'll run this wire through the firewall later and to the starter motor.

A bit confusing might be the small jumper wire in this harness. 1 end is black shrink wrap and the other is red. First just install it onto the 2 small terminals on the starter solenoid, 1 end on each post. Then the charts shows that the small ring end of P05B20O goes onto the same small terminal post that you put the black, negative end of the small jumper wire on and the other end with the big ring goes to the ground bolt.

Here is a pic of what we have so far....


P1060225.jpg


SC70300-901 Harness, Common goes up to the left wing root/header panel with a few wires going down under the seat and SC70300-101 Harness, CC11-160 has wires that go up into the right wing root; some that also go down under the seat. Look at the wiring chart to see which ones go under the seat.

SK77312-001 Trim System Harness. This harness use to actually come in the Finish Kit for some reason. On my current build, I didn't get it at all. You will need to run the switch end up to the left header panel and the rest of the wires under the seat. If your header isn't drilled, you will have to drill (step drill) a 1/2" hole. I put it horizontally inline with the other holes (don't get any higher because it may interfere with the flap rod later) and about 1.75" forward of the "Pilot ANR" hole. If you have the new modular panel header, it might have a pre-cut square hole with 2 screw holes. This is for a dual USB. If you don't want it, get a cover plate from CC to cover that hole.

Install this switch with the side that has "2-1" written on it......UP.

At this point, I would connect every wire you can before laying out the main G3X harness so it's easier to get to all the wires, etc.

LIGHTING WIRES TO LIGHT SWITCH. The 3 wires coming from the tail and each wing will be connected to the 3 white, plastic connectors with all blue wires coming out of the light switch. You will have to insert the male pins into the separate housing for the wire coming from the tail (LB15A18W-4; LB12A22W-4 and LB13A22W-4). It was impossible for me to see in the schematics how to put the pins in, by color because all the wires are blue so nothing to "match up with". So, for that LB15 wire from the tail, I just looked at the other 2 wires that came with the plastic housing already installed and did the same color match up as those were. It doesn't matter which of the blue wire connectors you attach these individual wires too.....they all do the same thing. So just grab a blue wire connector and attach one of these to it.

Note that in several harnesses, I had a LB14A20W-2 but in this last harness, that wire was labeled as LB01A20W-2. In any case, you will know which wire it is because it has 1 female pin attached to it already. It comes from the left wing landing lights. You will insert that male pin into the plastic, 2 pin housing that is coming down from the right wing landing light and then connect that housing to the 2 pin female housing coming from the landing light switch.

Lastly, run the main wiring harness SC71357-001 G3Xt Harness. Just lay it up on top of the fuse forward of the instrument panel and looking at the wiring diagram and schematics, you will see which end goes right and left.

If you have the G3X you will have to run the MAGNETOMETER wire up to the rear of the right header panel. It will connect later to the wire you put in the right wing and it's at the back spar so just run it to the rear of that panel. This wire is part of the main G3X Harness but will have the round plug on it.

The same with the OUTSIDE TEMP PROBE except it will go to the front of the left header panel. This is a separate wire and not integrated into the system. The wiring chart explains where to hook it up to.

P01C04W is a big, white wire that is very long and goes through the firewall to the starter. You see on the chart it goes "starter wire from large terminal on starter solenoid opposite P01B04W". So connect it to the opposite side that of the starter solenoid (the right one) from the P01B04W wire. Then route this wire through the left side floorboard with the rest of the wires and then up about halfway before heading it towards the firewall like in this photo.


P1020387.jpg

There is a short, white wire P03B10BK that goes from the 40 amp fuse holder (it the fuse holder and fuse should be in one of the G3X Totes) to the opposite side of the of the master solenoid from the positive battery. This wire is in a separate plastic bag and not in a harness.

Also there is another short, white, BIG 04 gauge wire that jumps over from the master to the starter solenoid you will see on the spreadsheet, P01B04W. I was missing this big wire in the kit so be sure you check for it. It's a large gauge wire the size of the ones going to the battery.

To install this trim box, you need a file that is usually in DropBox, Misc. files called EX3 TRIM HARNESS INSTALLATION. Right now it isn’t in there but I asked Mitch to add it. Here is a photo of the copy I have. (UPDATE: Mitch added this drawing to the dropbox file but it is different than the one pictured below. It shows a detail of where to drill the hole so ignore this and use the one in dropbox.)

The black box plugs into the wiring harness under the seat and mounts to the side of the seat base per this figure. Also, you can see in the lower right detail in the drawing where to drill the 5/8" (0.625) hole that goes through the seat base in the back, left to run the rear stick wire. The grommet should be MS35489-40.

P1060226.jpg


Attachment 8771


P1060228.jpg


P1060229.jpg


You will see 2 wires with solder sleeves on them coming out of the wire bundle with the front stick connector and labeled "white" and "White/Blu". They will solder to MB21B22W-2 wire that is coming down from the mic plugs in the left header. If you follow the bundle of wires down from that header panel you will see one, 2-wire (white) wire split off at the left A-pillar. That is the wire that will go down and connect to these 2 wires. If you peel the white cover back you should see a white and a white/blue wire there under some outer shielding (which you just cut away.).

It shows here also where and how you attach the black trim box to the seat base with 2 screws as well as drilling the hole for the rear stick connector cable and grommet to use. Note that “NOTE 2” in the upper right corner about cutting the molex away that exposes MB21B22W-2 wire that we spoke about above, is incorrect. Disregard that and refer to my remarks instead. That doesn't apply to the EX3 because the EX3 is standard with both front and rear trim control so this change isn't necessary. It comes pre-wired in the harness with that wire as I described.

RIGHT HEADER PANEL

There is only 1 wire connection to be made in the right header area as you can see on the chart. You have to solder 1 wire coming out of the connector to the wire with the crimp sleeve already on it coming out of the light. Then there is 1 female pin on it. Just plug that pin into the 3 hole connector (that is missing 1 pin) coming out of the light. The rest are made to the wires coming out of the wing that you will connect later when the wings are installed.


P1060231.jpg


P1060232.jpg

LEFT HEADER PANEL

If you are not installing the USB plug into this panel then you need to use XC23021-001 USB Plug (Cover Plate) using 2 of the MS57861-14C Self Tapping Screws (See Exec. Glass Manual, Page 25.) These screws were NOT in the kit anywhere so will need to request or obtain them.

ALSO, my last few Left Header Panels have not had the TRIM PRIORITY SWITCH hole in the panel so it will need to be drilled out and the switch installed along with the placard. Look at the Exec. Glass Manual, Page 31; Detail A. Drill a 0.50" hole 3.25" from the center of the hole for the fuel gauge to go through and make it in line with the other holes pre-drilled on the panel and then install the trim priority switch in that hole.

You will need to install the headphone, mic, Bose, etc. jacks into the header panel. It will look something like this after you make your connections per the chart. Then there is a ground wire on a black wire on the aft end of all this. It will go onto one of the screws you mount the window frame on later....it's a ground. There are several wires that go to the circuit breakers as shown on the wiring chart.


P1060233.jpg


P1060234.jpg


P1060235.jpg


TRANSPONDER PIN CONNECTOR FOR 345R.

The transponder should be mounted in the tray when you receive it from CC. However, there is a separate backing plate that you first have to mount onto the back of the tray itself before installing the transponder.

If you look at the transponder (the 345R) it will have 2 antenna connections on the back that we will use but you will notice they are not the correct fitting on them. The correct fittings are actually on that separate backing plate so here is what you do.

First, on the actual pin connector in the wiring harness (P3251), remove the 2 small screws on the back on the connector, then take the connector and install it onto the actual backing plate using those 2 screws you removed.

So now you have the pin connector on the backing plate. Now, there should have been 4 small screws attached (plastic bag) to the backing plate. Take those and you will see 4 small screw holes in that backing plate that they will fit into. Start screwing each screw into the backing plate from the backside....which would be the AFT side when installed in the transponder tray. Then you will see on the actual tray holder for the transponder in the back.......4 slotted holes for these screws. Just put the backing plate (with the 4 partially screwed in screws) into the slotted holes and slide to the side so they are in the small section of the slots and then tighten the screws down from inside the tray until tight.

Now you can install the transponder into the tray again. You may have to loosen the adjusting screw on the bottom enough so it will slide in before tightening. Be sure and be careful inserting the transponder into the pins that are now on the pin connector that is attached to that backing plate......wiggle it and be sure the pins are going into the transponder correctly before tightening and don't force it or you will bend a pin (ask me how I know!!).

Then just tighten that mounting screw on the bottom until snug.

This is also true for the Comm Radio as well except it is a little different you will see.


P1060239.jpg

[Daveembry]

WIRING CONTINUED

NOTE: I NOW MAKE THESE WIRES LONGER BY ABOUT 6" OR SO BECAUSE THEY ARE SO SHORT THAT ONCE YOU PUT THE FIREWALL ON, THERE JUST ISN'T MUCH ROOM AT ALL TO WORK WITH THE SOLDER SLEEVES AND GET IT ATTACHED RIGHT. I JUST CUT OFF SOME OF THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR (SINCE YOU WON'T NEED MUCH AT ALL) AND ATTACH 6" OR SO TO THE SOLDER SLEEVES NOW.

Just lay out the harness and follow the chart for connecting the wires. Here are a couple of tricky parts.

There is a short, jumper harness that is for the new fuel pressure sensor that isn't on the EX2 engines so we have to actually install the end of the harness that has 3 pins on it, into Pin 243 that is going into the GEA24. The other end of the short harness has 3 wires with solder sleeves on it already and this end will attach to the actual fuel pressure sensor BUT NOT UNTIL AFTER THE FIREWALL IS INSTALLED because it won't fit through the holes in the firewall. So we will install the 1 end into the harness and leave it until the firewall is installed and then we will solder the other end to the sensor wires.


P1060246.jpg
The end with these 3 solder sleeves will install LATER to the fuel pressure sensor on the outboard side of the firewall.


P1060247.jpg
This is the fuel pressure sensor that the 3 wires will later attach to on the other side of the firewall.

P243 is the top, left pin connector into the unit as view from the front of the airplane ​(not from the front of the unit). Remove it and the covers and take out the black, pin connector so you can push in the pins. Note the location of the pin holes. This is in the Garmin Installation Manual on Page 26-29 and I have attached a photo here.


P1060241.jpg


Per the chart, we are going to install the pin from the harness that is White/Orangeinto pin location 4; White into pin location 2 and the White/Blue wire into pin location 1. Looking at the diagram of the pin locations in the photo, the are not really clear from which direction you are looking into the pin holes but it is from the side where the wires are (or the INSIDE).


P1060242.jpg
Here you can see the screwdriver pointing to the pin locations 1-4


Pin locations 1-4 are the left, top, or wider side (19 pin row) as viewed from the wire side.


P1060243.jpg
I have put some silver sharpie on the holes.


Just be REAL SURE you have it right and then just push the pin into the hole until it snaps. Here you can see the 3 wires/pins installed in those 3 pin locations.


P1060245.jpg


P1060244.jpg


Put on some shrink wrap or electrical tape over the 3 wires where they go into the connector and re-install.

Note in the chart that when showing the wires connecting to the right and left warning lights on the panel that first there are 2 wires coming from the harness that will connect to them as well as a black and white (or maybe yellow and white) wires coming from the ignition boxes. Just be sure you have BOTH of the wires there before using the solder sleeve. Most likely, your panel came with the lights already installed in the panel and wired together with the radio frequency filter assembly, so you will just add the 2 wires going into EACH of the solder sleeves and then heat it.


P1060248.jpg


Looking at the Exec. Glass Manual, Page 14 you will see how we will plumb the manifold pressure that will go from the ignition boxes, through the firewall and connected later.


P1060249.jpg
In this photo you see that the cushioned clamp that goes around the sensor will attach to the top, left ignition box screw/nut onto the fuse. I removed the washer so there was more room for the clamp and still was able to get 1 thread through the end of the locknut. I used a small amount of Loctite 567 Thread Sealer on the 2 ends of the adapter that connects the nipple that installs onto the end of the sensor. NOTE: UPDATE IS THAT I NO LONGER USE THE ADEL CLAMP. I JUST PUT FRICTION TAPE AROUND THE FUSE AND TIE WRAP THE SENSOR TO THE TUBE. THE REASON IS THAT WHEN YOU HAVE TO GO REPLACE THIS SENSOR, ITS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO GET IT OFF AND BACK ONTO THE ADEL CLAMP. THESE SENSORS HAVE KNOW TO GO BAD MESSING UP YOUR MANIFOLD PRESSURE, SO BY JUST TIE WRAPPING IT, IT WILL BE MUCH EASIER TO ACCESS IT FROM THE ACCESS AREA THERE WHERE THE BATTERIES ARE.


P1060250.jpg
Here shows the "T" where you will cut the big, black tubing. I put about a 2" short piece on the left side of the "T" so we could put the other adapter to go from the large to smaller, yellow tubing coming from the ignition boxes. The remainder (long) piece of black tubing is on the right and will go through the firewall.

At the ignition boxes, I could not find anything in the manual about this but you can see here that you just want to put a short piece of the yellow tubing into each of the ignition boxes. I first put a black sharpie mark on the tubing about 1" from the end that goes into the box and put a little saliva in the tube. Then just watch the mark to be sure you are getting the tube seated all the way into the box.

You will use the SP50321-005 Barbed Tee Tube Fitting, 1/8" on the 3 connections here and 3 of the small HDW-5246K61 clamps. Be careful with these small clamps as they will break easily if you press them together too hard with pliers. Just do about 3 clicks and see if that secures the hose. Mine worked with 4 clicks so I stopped trying at that point as they seems completely closed and wouldn't move easily.


P1060251.jpg


FYI, in the totes there should be some of these HDW-7582K22 CABLE TIE HOLDER, 4-WAY. They can be used on the header panels on each side to hold the wires in place. HOWEVER, I would wait and place them later after you have hung the wings and put in the flap rods because you will have to place them and the wires so they don't interfere and if you do it now, you'll probably be moving them.

P1060363.jpg


NOTE: IF YOU ARE INSTALLING AN IFR PANEL WITH THE GNC 355; GAD 29; GTR 20; GMA245R AND G5, THEN HERE ARE SOME ADDITIONAL CONFIG SETTINGS YOU WILL NEED TO DO.

I ALSO HAVE A SHORT VIDEO OUT SHOWING AND EXPLAINING THIS at this link: https://youtu.be/VrK5BXHUmyQ

NOTE: On July 19, 2022 I was informed that CC may have different wiring schematics now for this system using a "modular system" where sections of the harness may plug into each other. This was one of the first systems wired so the below wiring I explain is based on that early system. Yours may be different.

With this system, there are some additional things you have to take note of:

• If you are installing the GMA245R (Audio panel), it is installed along with the GTR20 Com Radio in a tray under the turtle deck.
• If installing the GNC355 Navigator, it has its own com radio so has to have it's own antenna as well. In this case, you will need 2 com antennas (1 for the GTR20 Com Radio and 1 for the GNC355). CC has a "kit" they sell that is called the "Dual Com Antenna Kit". You will install those 2 antennas OUT ON THE WING OVER THE FLAP FALSE SPAR! So BE SURE AND INSTALL THAT KIT BEFORE COVERING YOUR WINGS. The kit contains 2 ground plate mounting plates that you rivet to the top of the flap false spar before cover. The GNC355 antenna will route up the right pillar, down the right header and go out the tail ribs of the wing and connect to the antenna after you install the wings. There will be a 5" inspection cover on the bottom side of the wings as well to access this antenna.
• The wiring harness from CC (if you get it from them) will have everything all wired into the harness with the exception of the G5; 355 and 305 autopilot power wires. There should be 2 wires coming from these units. 1 labeled with a + and one with a -. Just route the + to the circuit breaker for that unit and the - one to a ground screw.
• You should have the heated pitot as well. The precover kit should have had 2 wires that go down the wing to the pitot area. One labeled + and one labeled -. The pitot itself actually has 2 heating elements so it will have 4 wires coming out of it. 2 are banded with a black shrink wrap. These are the 2 positives and should be connected and soldered to the + wire you run down the wing and the - to - wire. In the pitot tube parts you get along with the pre-cover parts, there should also be a + and - wire that you will run up the pillar on the left side that will connect with the wing wires later. The + end attached to the top of the HEATED PITOT SWITCH along with the LED light. The - goes to a ground screw.
• There are several wires in the standard G3X harness that will not be used.

Here are some additional wiring changes to the G3X harness affected by these avionics:

- There is no ground wire in the left header panel behind the last mic input that normally would install on one of the screws when you mount the window. Since the rear audio avionics are mounted in the tray there by the turtle deck, and those wires built into the harness, they made that ground wire part of the harness and is not there.
- IGO8C20O is not used. (see wiring chart). That bus it was connecting is now connected by another wire and the other end went Ignition Backup Battery CB but not used now. CAP & STOW BOTH ENDS.
- Use GSA01B14 and connect it from the AVINOICS BUS to the SERVO SWITCH
- GSA01A22 goes to the GMC CB but is too short since they moved that CB up top. I just added a little piece onto it to make it long enough.
- Backup Battery Switch is installed with the end labeled "1 & 4" facing UP and "6 & 3" facing DOWN.
- AB89A22G & AB33A22G will not be in the harness. They were for the GTR200 Com radio not used now.
- GSA07A22 & GSA08A22 is not used (or there?). It came from the 305 autopilot originally and went to GMC CB and Ground but new wires now come out of the 305 just labeled GMC + and GMC -.
- AB80A20O & AB880B20O are not there. They originally came out ofthe GTR 200 and went to the COM CB and ground but not used or there now.
- AB42A18 is not used and capped and stowed on both ends. It went from the AV BUS bar and the AV SWITCH but replaced now by MB11B12R instead.
- The wires used to connect the backup ignition lights etc are different as the lights are already connected with the filterwire, etc. Now you will a) Combine IGO7A22 with the same wire number from the switch/lightside of the panel and with A12A22G (Black). Combine IGO7B22 with the same wire number from the switch/lightside of the panel with A12B22G (yellow). You won't have to solder the wires into the LED red lights now.

You can see the power distribution on the Executive Glass Manual on page 17. Here is the routing of the power wires between the buses:

- AB99A12 from GAD circuit breaker to AVIONICS Bus bar (GMC, COM1, COM2, GMA)
- GSA01B14 from AVIONICS Bus to SERVOS SWITCH
- MB11B12R from AVIONICS BUS BAR to AV SWITCH
- MB12A10BK from LIGHTING BUS BAR (strobe, Nav switches) to MAIN 1 BUS (PFD, GEA, GSU)
- MB41A10 from MAIN 1 BUS BAR to MAIN 2 BUS BAR (FUEL PUMP, IGNITION, PITOT)
- MB43A10 from MAIN 2 BUS BAR to MAIN 3 BUS BAR (G5, EXT, FIELD)
- A08A10BK from MAIN 2 BUS BAR to ALT Circuit Breaker

- You will also need to put an additional “T” on the pitot and static lines going into the G5. I just split them right in front of the G5. See the video to see.

The configuration settings for G3X with GNC 355, GTR 20, GMA 245R, should be:

• G3X - in the GDU 465 configuration mode:
  
  • RS-232 - PFD tab
    
    • Serial Port 1 - MapMX
    • Serial Port 2 - Connext 57600 Baud
    • Serial Port 3 - Garmin Instrument Data
    • Serial Port 4 - Garmin Instrument Data
    • Serial Port 5 - Connext 57600 Baud
    
    
  • ARINC 429
    
    • 429 Output 1 - NAV 1 - EFIS/Airdata Format 1
    • 429 Output 2 - None
    • 429 Input 1 - NAV 1 - Garmin GPS
    • 429 Input 2 thru 4 - None
    
    
  • Audio Panel
    
    • Audio Panel Type - GMA 245R
    • Passengers Intercom - Disabled
    • Cockpit Noise Level – Enabled (choices are Normal or Noise??)
    
    
  • COM Radio
    
    • COM 1 tab
      
      • Connection - PFD RS-232 1
      
      
    • COM 2 tab
      
      • Connection - Network Radio LRU 2 (GTR 20)
    
    
  • Transponder
    
    • HSDB Device GTN is enabled
    • RS-232 Port 2 is set to CONNEXT Format 1
    • Chane transponder to the correct model (ie GTX45R)
  
  
• G5
  
  • RS-232 - Both Ports set to NONE
  • GPS Configuration - External Antenna - Not connected
  • GPS Data Fields - SHOW
  • Internal GPS Receiver - Enabled
  • Battery Configuration - Show Battery Status - When Using Battery - Automatic Power Off - On Ground
  • HSI Page - Enabled
  • Powerup Page - PFD
  • Current Mode - Automatic
  • Default Mode - Automatic Pitch/Roll Calibration - (this will be set by you when you calibrate it)
  • Automatic Declutter - Enabled
  • Attitude Configuration - Don't configure yaw. Configure pitch/roll with airplane in the level position.
  • Pitch Display - NORMAL
  • Standard Turn Roll Reference - SHOW
  • Device Information - Green checkmarks should be by GMC - GMC 305; A429 - GAD 29; XPDR - GTX 45R; Mag - GMU 22; Roll - GSA 28; Pitch - GSA 28; GMC; SFD - G5; PFD - GDU 465; ADAHRS - GSU25C

- Installation Type - G3X System Backup

• GNC 355 - config mode (push concentric knob while power-up) - then SETUP - then INTERFACES
  
  • ARINC 429 config page
    
    • “RX” IN 1 Speed - LOW
    • IN 1 Data - EFIS / AIRDATA
    • OUT 1 Speed - LOW
    • “TX” OUT 1 Data - GAMA FORMAT 1
    • SDI - LNAV1
    • Selected Course - ALLOWED
    
    
  • RS-232 config page
    
    • Port 1 Input / Output - MapMX Format 2
    • Port 2 Connect 57,600
    • Port 3 OFF
    
    
  • Interfaced Equipment Page
    
    • ADS-B SRC GTX#1
    • GDU - Not Present
    
    
  • Main Indicator (Analog) config page
    
    • Selected Course - Allowed
    • Calibrate OBS Resolver
    
    
  • Settings in Normal Mode - EXTERNAL FPF CROSSFILL - SELECTED (Allowed)
  • In CONFIGURATION MODE - Main Page (page 2) - External FPL - ENABLED

- Air/Gnd THLD - 35 KT
- System ID - GPS 1
- Fuel Type - AV Gas
- GPS Select - Auto
- RF PROC Legs - Enabled
- Ownship - Select One

• GPS Antenna Offset - Height Above Ground - 6.0 ft

- Lateral Offset - 0 ft./ Right
- Offset from nose - 10 ft.

• COM. - RX SQ - RX SQ Mode - Basic

- RX SQ Config - 75%
- Carrier Sq - 55%
- Mic Gain - -12db
- Sidetone - Source - Internal
- Volume - 63.0 db
- Pilot Controlled - ENABLED

• Interfaced Equipment Page - ADS-B SRC - GTX #1

- GDU - Not Present

[Daveembry]

WIRING CONTINUED (FYI, The reason a new post has to be started every so often is because this forum will only allow a max of 12 pictures per post, so when I get that many pictures posted I have to go to a new post)

TERMINATOR BLOCKS FOR CAN BUS. If you look at the G3X Exec Glass Manual, Page 10 on the top right, you will see the CAN BUS schematics. Each end of a CAN BUS system (the communication system between the various parts of the system that reports to the G3X) must be terminated.

The Pitch Servo is at one end and you will see at the other end is the GSU 25 (ADAHRS unit mounted on the tray). The actual connectors of the pitch servo has a built in terminator block, so you don't have to add one here but you DO have to add one onto the 9 pin connector of the GSU 25 as shown in the drawing.

There should be a TERMINATOR PLUG in the kit (my last kit, it was NOT in the kit for some reason) and it should be installed on the back of the GSU 25 unit where Plug 251 plugs in, which is the 9 pin connector.

If you are installing the autopilot servos, then remove the 2 TERMINATOR PLUGS that the factory should have installed on the ends of the autopilot, servos harness that goes under the seat. Also, if you are testing the system and doing the Garmin G3X updates show later in the thread here......be sure and actually connect your servos to the harness so the update will detect and update them. You don't have to actually INSTALL the servos now, just be sure they are connected.

TESTING THE SYSTEM.

NOTE: UPDATE MARCH, 2020. See post #168 for an update to test the magnetometer wiring in the wing root.

First you have to update the G3X to the latest software update before the system will load the CCK-2000 Base Rev. Go to https://www8.garmin.com/support/coll...t=010-00G3X-00 and then select the "GDU 4xx Cockpit Display (Microsoft Windows Installer), Ver. X.XX, as of XXX. Must be later than version 8.6

Select “Download" option if you are using Windows for the GDU 4xx . Follow the instructions link first on that page to see how to download it. You will first download it to your Desktop on your computer and then open that file after it's complete. It will unpack the update and you will tell it to put it on an SD card. To load into into the G3X, you need to turn it on in CONFIGURATION MODE and then put in the SD card and it will detect it and ask if you want to install it. Be sure you have your avionics switch ON so it will also go out and update the other equipment you have. It will update everything you have except for the newer GTX345R transponder for which you have to do that individually using the black connector that came in the harness we just installed. If you notice this black connector piece in the harness, just tie wrap it to a tube on the bottom of the panel area so that if you need to do that later, you can access it easily.

You can later update the actual data for the maps, obstructions, etc etc. from the Flygarmin.com site with a subscription. See below.

Be sure to just temporarily connect all the antennas before turning on the system. Look at the last page of the wiring chart to see where all 5 wires connect. 2 from the GDU display; 2 from the 345R transponder; 1 from the comm radio.

I don't do any tie wrapping of any wires yet until I've tested everything. I go through all the wiring on my wiring chart to be sure I've checked off each wire was installed and then I look at each circuit break and each switch on the instrument and left header panels to be sure there are wires connected to them. I also just go through the wiring harness and look for any loose connectors that maybe were not connected to be sure none were left. Almost all of the connectors that end around the 4 ground tabs on the front of the fuse will go to those grounds but just check them off to be sure.

I don't install any of the ADHRS plastic tubing yet (white, green and blue tubes). I'll install them after testing the system and then bundling and tie wrapping all the wires. (NOTE: You may not have the "T" needed for the 1 ADAHRS connector shown on page 28 of the Exec. Glass DROPBOX manual. That part is VP-9050-003 so if you don't have it, go ahead and call Mitch now. He knows it's not being shipped and should have it added to new kit G3X Totes. When you install them, don't use any thread sealer on any plastic fittings and you do use the inserts into the tubes when you install them, just like we did on the fuel lines.

Tighten down all the connector screws on the solenoids under the seat as well as the ground lug under the seat and the 4 ground screws up at the instrument panel.

Connect your 2 backup batteries but if you haven't purchased it yet, you will need to also run a positive and negative to the connectors that go to this battery in the harness. Install your starter battery.

Pull out all the circuit breakers on the left header panel; on the instrument panel and the 2 ignition breakers at the front of the seat base as well as turning the SERVO switch on the bottom right of the panel (avionics bus) OFF (Down) and be sure the FUEL PUMP and EMERGENCY switches are also OFF (Down).

- OK so turn MASTER SWITCH ON and verify a click from the Master Solenoid.
- Next push START Circuit Breaker (left header panel) and EXT breaker in and turn ignition switch to START and listen for a click from STARTER SOLENOID. Turn off the MASTER SWITCH.

A full length checkout form is in the EX3 Dropbox files under Miscellaneous Information and is the "IGN MODULE OPS CHECK"
pdf. Run through this checklist to check out the complete Ignition tests. Below is an abbreviated way to do it.

- Go to the Dropbox and in the folder G3X Data Files, locate "Config Installation Instructions". Follow the directions to make a folder GARMIN on an SD card and then CONFIG inside the GARMIN folder. Then go back to the Dropbox files and download the "CCK-2000 W & B Envelope..." file into that CONFIG folder. NOTE: There is a file for a CCK-2000 Base Setting Rev 2 that won’t be recognized by the G3X system unless you have updated the system to 8.6 or later. See above on how to update the firmware first. Follow the instructions to install these into the G3X. You will have to turn on the MASTER SWITCH and push in the PFD circuit breaker.

NEXT
-Next turn on (flip up) the EMERGENCY (backup ignition battery) SWITCH and you should see the amber light come on to the right of the switch.
- Next push in both IGNITION BREAKERS on the seat base and then turn ignition switch to RIGHT and you should see RED LEFT IGNITION ANNUNCIATION light come on the PFD panel.
- Next flip the EMERGENCY SWITCH to OFF (Down) Then turn switch to BOTH and no lights should be lit. Turn switch to LEFT and RIGHT light should come on and turn switch to RIGHT and LEFT light should come on. ALSO, look on the display of the G3X and the red annunciation lights should also indicate the same.

- Next push in the IBBS breaker and then flip the IBBS SWITCH up to ON position. The display should come on.
- Next push in the PFD BREAKER and flip the MASTER SWITCH ON.​ The PFD (GDU display) should come on.
- Now push in all the remaining circuit breakers in the left wing header panel; the main circuit breakers and all the breakers in the avionics bus (GMC, COM, XPDR).
- Flip up the AV switch and the com radio should come up.

You will have a "message" flashing in yellow at the bottom. Touch it and it will take you to a message that says the ADHRS is not receiving data and not receiving Magnetometer data. It won't until you finish the build and right before your first flight when you will have to do some calibrations we will cover then.

ALSO, you will note that all the oil pressure, oil temp and maybe all or several of the EGT and CHT temps may be X'd out. This is common. They won't come on until a sensors are installed.

(NOTE THAT WHEN YOU GET TO THE DOWNLOAD PAGE IT WILL LIST ALL THE CHANGES TO EACH PIECE OF EQUIPMENT AND LIST THE CURRENT VERSION FOR EACH. YOU CAN THEN GO TO THE G3X AND IN THE CONFIG MODE, SELECT "SYSTEM INFO" BUTTON AND IT WILL LIST ALL YOUR EQUIPMENT AND THE CURRENT VERSION IT HAS LOADED SO YOU CAN VERIFY EVERYTHING IS CURRENT OR NOT.)

TRANSPONDER - You will need to configure the transponder but there will be a big red X in the display after you configure it below. Once you have configured it correctly, it should then show up on the display.

The AUTOPILOT will not show up or work at all either until after the final calibrations done on the ADAHRS.

The OAT temp probe should work and show the temp at the very bottom of the G3X display even if it isn't grounded up at the wing yet.

- Go to the CONFIG for the TRANSPONDER. Turn off the G3X Touch display (turn off MASTER and IBBS) then turn it back on while pressing and holding in the physical MENU button on the G3X until you see "CONFIGURATION MODE" at the top of the screen over the GARMIN reading as it's booting up.

First go to the TRANSPONDER button and select your transponder model (mine is the GTX345R); put in your N number; Aircraft Type (Fixed Wing); Aircraft Weight (2,000); Max Speed (170); Length (23'); width (33'); RS-232 Port 2 to Connext Format 1. Everything else should be correct or you can put in your personal choices.

Next go back to Dropbox and get the FX3 G3X SETTINGS file opened. You will need to go through these additional setting in the CONFIG MENU.

Go to the ADAHRS button and you have to first select the orientation of the unit you installed. I installed mine with TUBES UP CONNECTORS PORT (on left wing side). You may have installed it with TUBES UP CONNECTORS STARBOARD (on right wing side), just select how yours is installed. Later, you will have to continue configuring the other setting you see there but this will be done when you are about ready to flight test. Press the BACK button to go back to the main screen.

- Go to AIRCRAFT button. Go through the options on the AIRCRAFT tab. I used 9.5 for fuel and 120 cruise. You can adjust this later.
Go to the REFERENCE SPEEDS tab and go through those speeds using the data sheet from Dropbox. The stall speeds are nuts! You can fine tune these after you do flight tests but the sheet lists them way high. I used 36 VSO and 38 VS1. I didn't config the G METER display tab.

- WEIGHT AND BALANCE button you will fill in after you do your final weight and balance calculations for the plane.

- RS-232 CONFIGURATION button, go to SERIAL PORT 1 and select GARMIN INSTRUMENT DATA; AT SERIAL PORT 2 and select CONNEXT 57,600 BAUD; then PORT 3 and select Garmin Instrument Data; then PORT 4 and select Garmin Instrument Data and PORT 5 will be blank.

- ENGINE AND AIRFRAME button. Go down to FUEL PRESSURE and select it. Then for the TYPE select the 2nd choice down which should be KAVLICO P4055-50G. Then you can go on the right side and set the default numbers as shown on the Dropbox sheet for Fuel Pressure. The min/max are set OK at 0-40 but click on the gauge setting and then set up your markings as shown on the Dropbox sheet.

- Scroll down to FUEL FLOW and press that and edit the settings per the Dropbox sheet. Also, click on the CALIBRATE button on the bottom right side and then change the default fuel quantity from 24 to 44 (EX3 has 39 gallons usable in the 44 gallon tanks . You can set it to 44 and know there is 39 usable or just put it on 39 and know there is 5 more "unusable). This will change the default fuel button on the fuel tab in the display so you can reset it when you refuel the plane and it will keep track of fuel used and remaining. To set the default fuel quantity go to this Youtube link https://youtu.be/QczOkPfmmkE

- Then go to "Pos 6/Temp 1" for the Carb. Temp. (this was for EX2) and select NONE.

-Go to the LRU page and on the left, select AUTOPILOT then on the right select PITCH & ROLL. Then go up to ADAHRS on the left and then be sure all the selections on the right are ENABLED (ADAHRS 1; MAGNATOMETER 1; OAT 1; AOA1) Note that the ADAHRS & OAT will be dimmed out but should already be ENABLED.

- In AUTOPILOT tab, look at the photos in the GARMIN AUTOPILOT folder to get the initial setting to use for your gain and torque. Look at the screenshots of the actual G3X and not the other ones. Gain is how quickly it reacts and torque is how much max torque it will use. Be sure you can overpower (torque) it but that will come later when we configure it after completely set up and ready to fly. The setting they use are:

PITCH GAIN TAB;
- Min Airspeed : 63
- Max Airspeed: 145
- Vertical Speed Gain: 1.36
- Vertical Accel Gain: 1.35
- Airspeed Gain: 1.35

PITCH SERVO
- Max Torque: 85%
- Pitch Servo Gain: 2.10
- Pitch Servo Direction: REVERSE
- Clutch Monitor: Enabled
- Trim Motor Control (if shown): DISABLED

ROLL SERVO
- Roll Torque: 65% (note, I have had to use more if torque tube is tight like many are)
- Roll Servo Gain: 1.60
- Roll Servo Direction: NORMAL
- Clutch Monitor: Enabled
- Trim Motor Control: IF SHOWN: Disabled

AUTOPILOT CONFIGURATION
- Control Wheel Steering: Enabled (when this is enabled, when you press AND HOLD (as opposed to just pressing) the autopilot release button on top of the front stick and hold it, it temporarily disengages the autopilot but when you release it, it returns to the set heading (if using the heading bug) or stays at the current altitute)
- Engage AP via CWS: Enabled

REMEMBER THAT IF YOU ARE INSTALLING AN IFR PANEL WITH THE GNC355, G5, GMA235R, ETC. GO TO POST 208 TO FINISH THE SETUP. https://forum.cubcrafters.com/showth...ll=1#post28427

When done, you press the BACK button until you get to the main screen and then select the SAVE AND REBOOT button.

TESTING LIGHTS

I like to test the NAV; STROBE; LANDING PULSE and LANDING ON wiring as well.

- Master Switch ON. Take voltmeter and go to the wing roots and the rear of the fuselage wiring to test. The RUDDER LIGHTS at the tail do not have anything to do with the LANDING LIGHTS in either position but should show voltage for the NAV and STROBES on.
- LB12A22W-4 and LB13A22W-4 are in the wing roots. Here are the wires that should have voltage when these switches are ON:
- NAV - Orange/Wht wire in all 3 locations and the cockpit light should operate (red/white/dim)
- STROBE - White only wire in all 3 locations.
LB14A20W-2 and LB01A20W-2 in the right and left wing headers
- LANDING PULSE - White only at 12.0 volts
- LANDING ON - White only at 12.5 volts

MAGNETOMER

Test the wire connector that should be at the back/rear of the right header panel. You can see the pin numbers inside looking into the connector. There should be:

- 12.0 volts at pin 9
- (5.73)v (negative 5.73v) at pin 8.

All the rest of the pins do not have power at this time but later when you install magnetometer and get ADHRS, etc connected at the end of the build, here is what the rest of the pins should read.

1 = 2.1v
2 = 3.7v
3 = 1.8v
4 = 3.9v
5 = nothing
6 = 3.3v
7 = nothing
8 = -5.73v
9 = 12.0 v

P1060260.jpg

While you are fooling around with this, open the G3X in the CONFIGURATION MODE again, touch the SYSTEMS INFO button and on the right side, write down your SYSTEM ID number. You will need this on the Garmin website to get updates, etc. You should also get your RADIO ID number for your SXM (Sirius radio). You can get this with the G3X in the normal operating mode (not in config mode), then click on the map inset window to put it in the split screen and then rotate the knob to scroll over to the radio page and you will see the radio id. You'll need this to get a subscription to the music, weather, etc.

Then go to https://fly.garmin.com/fly-garmin/devices/list and ADD YOUR AIRCRAFT and you can follow the instructions to get a subscription to the databases you want and how to download and install them. They are very simple to do both.

In the paperwork you got in the kit, you should see this page in a bag along with the radio manual, dust cloth for the G3X, etc. On this card is a code that will give you 1 free update of all the databases without a subscription..

P1060261.jpg

Turn on the landing lights, strobe lights and test the cockpit light on the right header panel and with a multi-meter, check the wing and rudder light connectors for power. Put the control sticks on and test the trim motor from front and rear using the trim priority switch on the left header panel.

FYI, the TRIM PRIORITY SWITCH works like this; in the enter OFF position, neither works. In the front or rear position both sticks can control the trim BUT if both try at the same time, the stick with the priority switch turned to will take control. So the switch is not and "either .....or" switch but just like it says....a "priority" switch so that the switch can be either in the front or aft position and both will still work just the same individually but if both pressed at the same time, only the one the switch is selected to will work.

After you test out all good, then you can bundle the wires up where it all looks good. I always try to put any of the connectors, fuse holders, etc. facing downward so if you ever have to access them to replace later, they will be easy to get to from under the panel. Install the yellow and black pressure tubes from the ignition boxes last and don't bundle them up tightly with the rest of the wires so they don't get pinched.

When you install the ignition cables from the ignition boxes, there is a RIGHT A & B and a LEFT A & B. Be sure and get some tape and label the ends of these cables so you will know which one goes where when you install them.

P1060300.jpg

Also the other ignition pick up sensors that will go from the boxes to the engine need to be marked.

P1060301.jpg

The stereo plug jack that is on the bracket with the auxiliary power plug (cigarette lighter plug for us old guys) won't fit without some cutting and grinding. The "Audio Jack Isolator" is a little black piece that has to go in the bracket so the stereo plug will go through and fit ok. EXCEPT....it doesn't fit at all!

P1060294.jpg

The problem is that the thread length on the jack itself is way too short so you have to cut off down the back of this little black piece. First I took a dremel with sanding drum and sanded down the bracket itself on the back to make the metal much thinner so the threads from the isolator would go further out the front. Then I found it easier also to use my dremel with cut-off wheel and cut the back of the black plastic piece flush with the back of the jack metal bracket/holder (after grinding/sanding down) to make it thinner. You can make it work this way. Just push it through and then try and start the little round nut onto the threads.

P1060295.jpg


P1060297.jpg


P1070048.jpg


It should look something like this when you are done. Lastly I will install the tubes into the ADHRS that is detailed in the Executive Glass Manual. The plastic connectors that screw into the unto do not get any thread seal or anything. Be sure and put a plastic INSERT into the end of each of the colored plastic lines when you install them. Also, the last 2 kits I have been missing the "T" connector that goes on the aft end of the unit. It is a VP9050-003 if you don't have it, call Mitch. The clear tubes o the T are going to the 2 static pressure fittings we put on either side of the cowl and will be trimmed later when we fit them after the bot cowl is installed.

NOTE: It is MUCH EASIER to install the clear plastic lines onto the static ports in the boot cowl before installing the boot cowl and before connecting those lines to the ADHRS. Just put the vents on the boot cowl (See Exec. Glass Manual Page 35) and install the tubing on each one leaving a couple feet in length. Then while sliding boot cowl up when installing, stop short and connect these tubes to the ADHRS before pushing boot cowl the rest of the way up. The reason for this is that those tubes do NOT fit easily over the static vents and usually have to be heated a little first to make them soft enough and those weird wire clamps that go on are almost impossible to do once the boot cowl is installed.....so just do it now while it's easy.

P1060302.jpg


P1060303.jpg


Ignition system and mini-sensor. This was a pretty interesting situation. I'm adding this post after I have actually finished the plane and wanted to add this to the inspection list during the build.


Here’s what happened:

On the first engine run-up the engine fired right up and ran fine. I did a quick ignition check........on BOTH......ran fine. On LEFT.......ran fine. On RIGHT..........bam.........really bad miss and huge drop in rpm’s.

I switched to LEFT and looked at EGT’s and all showing green but when I switched to RIGHT......... cylinders 3 & 4 EGT’s dropped off to nothing. Here’s the procedure I used to work out the problem.

Understanding the ignition system, here is how it works. The RIGHT ignition box has 2 cables going to 2 coils at the bottom side of the engine and this box fires the BOTTOM spark plugs in the engine. The LEFT box goes to the 2 upper coils and fires the TOP spark plugs.

So on the 2 bottom coils that are controlled by the RIGHT box, the pilot right side box controls bottom cylinders 3 & 4, which are the ones I had a problem with so I first suspected a coil problem so I swapped that coil out with the coil on the bottom, left side (that controls cylinders 1 & 2) and the problem did NOT move to cylinders 1 & 2 but stayed with 3 & 4........so this eliminated that it was a coil problem.

When I experience a problem, it’s seems it’s usually the simplest thing that causes it so I always look at the simplest things first before going to the hardest. In this case I'll test..... the coil, spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition wires, mini-sensors and lastly........the ignition box.

Coil eliminated so i next checked the spark plugs (fat chance that 2 plugs were fouled at the same time ....right?)and they looked fine but I went ahead and put 2 new ones in anyway.

Next I did a continuity check on the spark plug wires going to these 2 cylinders (fat chance that 2 spark plug wires were bad at the same time.....right?). All good.

Next I removed the right, forward interior panel to expose the ignition boxes and I had previously labeled each box as RIGHT and LEFT by writing this directly on the boxes with a sharpie. The left side box was the LEFT side box so I removed the right side RIGHT ignition box ignition wires (BNC connectors and on the forward side of the box) and did a continuity check with the positive side of the connector at the coil (blue connector attached to the center wire of the cable) and the center of the BNC connector and the negative (yellow connector) with the outside of the BNC connector. I really thought I might find the problem here where I had installed the connectors but it was all good.

Next I double checked the mini-sensors I installed at the flywheel to be sure the gap was correct. The tolerance is .030-.060 from the flywheel being sure it stays parallel to the flywheel across the mini-sensor. They tell me that the closer to the minimum gap the better, so I used .032. All good.

Next....... crap.......guess it’s the box and it doesn’t look like fun removing that bracket. Mitch and CC was great and overnighted me another box and instead of actually removing the existing boxes, I just attached the connectors to the new box temporarily to test it. I didn’t bother removing and installing the yellow manifold pressure lines from the existing box to the new box because it wouldn’t affect the engine running.........it only affects the engine timing.NOPE.....not the box!!!! NOW WHAT?

OK....emails out to Klaus who owns Lightspeed. It was amazing.....it was a Saturday and i didn't expect to hear from him at all.....much less on a Saturday.....but within an hour or so he replied and said..... “our boxes and mini-sensors never fail” and he suggested running the tests listed in the Lightspeed manual that comes with the system (and from CC). I looked them up and pulled the INPUT cable from the back of the box and checked the pins listed to see if power was coming into the box from the aircraft wiring harness........... ALL GOOD!

Has to be a mini-sensor right? But Klaus says they never fail. Only problem is I know a guy who did have one bad so I knew they could be bad. If you recall, there are 2 mini-sensors installed 180 degrees apart from each other up behind the flywheel.........1 for each for the LEFT and RIGHT ignition boxes. The sensor on the RIGHT side of the engine is for the RIGHT box (and my problem area). On the aft side of the flywheel there is a plate that is installed that has magnets in it. These magnets are picked up by the min-sensors as the engine rotates and this signal passes from the sensors to the ignition box which decides when to send a signal to the coils to fire.....which then goes through the spark plug wires to the spark plugs ......and the engine fires. This timing of the firing is changed by the ignition boxes and the changes are based on a multitude of data.

Digging into it more, I discover that each “mini-sensor” unit is actually comprised of 2 sensors in the housing.......1 that is for the cylinder 3&4 coil and the other for cylinder 1 & 2 coil. So my 1 & 2 side of the sensor is working but the 3 & 4 side is not???

Once again Cubcrafters comes through and overnights me a new sensor to try (even though they never fail........).I’ve got the new sensor and see that the cable is long enough that I can install it on the right side of the engine and just run the cable on the outside of the plane to the box inside to just test it before actually going though the hassle of getting it thought the firewall clamshell, etc.

So I remove the existing connector from the right sensor where it goes into the ignition box. I’m inspecting the wires going into the connector and see that there are 2 wires coming from the sensor into the connector, no doubt 1 from each side of the mini-sensor so 1 is for that 3 & 4 coil and the other for the 1 & 2. Hmmmmmm.......what if......

Yep.....with my magnifying glass, I look very closely at the solder connections Lightspeed has made where the wires attach to the connector.....the pins are side by side and looking closely, I see a bit of solder has bridged the 2 pins and I’m sure that shouldn’t be. A soldering iron to melt the solder and a small piece of sandpaper between the pins and it’s all back together and working great! What a relief but it has taken me almost a week to get this one sorted out.

Looking at the Lightspeed manual, there is a test you can do that will show if a signal is passing from the sensors to the box when a magnet passes by it. i think this can be done while wiring the units and before installing the boot cowl. Essentially, you remove the input connector from the box that is coming from the sensor. The manual shows which pins to attach a meter to and when you pass a magnet (maybe a magnetic pickup tool?) by the sensor, you will see voltage show up. CC has the power wires, etc. they have installed into this connector that you have to connect into the wiring harness, so be sure when you test that those wires are connected to the wiring harness and that you have master switch on and battery power of course.

Another test of the system once you have the engine installed. Either remove all the spark plugs or wires from the spark plugs. Also remove the spark plug wires from the coils. With the master switch ON and the ignition switch on BOTH, turn the flywheel around quickly and you should see the 4 coils “snap” or fire/spark each time the flywheel magnets pass the sensors. All 4 should work.

[Daveembry]

AUTOPILOT SERVO INSTALLATION

ROLL SERVO

Go to the Dropbox files and go into the folder for "Garmin Autopilot" There are great photos there as well as diagrams.

Here is one figure not in Dropbox you will need. The rivet here used to attach the roll servo bracket to the torque tube is a CR3213-4-3. I just tape this to the torque tube now so it will be there when we install the ailerons and finish up the roll servo here.


53E3BA51-6710-41AD-B3E0-9DFB838C39F4.jpg


First you have to install the bracket with the 4 screws that should be in the plastic bag with the bracket in the servo box. It goes like this:

P1060264.jpg


P1060263.jpg


You do not need to cut off the end of the bracket like Chuck showed in his thread. I've never had to do this but maybe they changed things up a bit since he got his.

Next install the bracket onto it. The diagrams show parts callout. AN3-4A; AN960-10L and AN365-1032A nuts



P1060265.jpg



Put the piece that goes onto the torque tube and just snug up the bolt/nut until it holds it into place. You will have to bend it out some to get it on. Use AN3-5A; AN960-10L and AN365-1032A.



P1060266.jpg


P1060267.jpg


Install the pieces on the small torque tube servo push rod that will go from the servo over to the arm on the bracket on the torque tube per the figures.

Screw the little torque tube all the way down onto the rod end screw on the servo right now (there should be a small locknut AN315-3R between the end of the torque tube and the head of rod end so thread it onto the MM-3M-500 Male Rod End first.)

Note that the diagram shows using 1 AN960-10 washers when mounting the torque tube arm to the servo but those are too thick for the castle nut to fit right, so use AN960-10L on both sides instead.

So to explain further, we will install the little, green torque tube to the servo arm and being sure you first put the AN315-3R onto the control arm first.

Screw that little torque tube all the way down onto the screw on the servo arm. Then screw the other end of the torque tube onto the control arm screw that will eventually mount onto the big arm we slid over the torque tube. Screw this end all the way down also. Don't connect it to the big arm on the main torque tube until after you install the servo onto the seat base.

Then after you screw the servo onto the side of the seat base permanently, you will then attach the end of the little torque tube to the arm on the big arm on the airplane big torque tube. Then secure the lock nuts (AN315-3R) tight against each end of the push rod torque tube later in the build when doing final installation of ailerons and roll servo. For now, you are done. I go ahead and tighten the castle nut on the servo arm now and install the cotter pin but I don't install the cotter pin in the nut on the torque tube fitting yet. We will adjust that on final install.


Attachment 8851


Get a silver sharpie and mark the inside of the area under the seat where the bracket will mount. The dimensions are on the figure.

Place the servos and bracket in place where you have marked the front holes to go approximately and then center between the bracket, the arm on the servo upwards. Screw the little torque tube from the servo to the arm on the torque tube bracket just a little bit and then be sure that little torque tube is approximately level. I found the measurements in the drawing to be correct.


P1060269.jpg


P1060270.jpg


Don't worry about the big torque tube bracket at this time, just slide it up until its straight across from the servo and that it won't interfere with any wiring or hit anything when moved. Do NOT install the rivet through the torque tube bracket into the torque tube yet. After installing and adjusting the ailerons, we will connect the servo to the main torque tube and make final adjustments at that time.

Go ahead and match drill the rectangular plate that goes on the right, outside area of the seat base where the servo bracket will screw through. NOTE: There is no way I could get the 526C1032-R12 screws to go all the way into the nutplates they installed on the brackets. I got some R10's and they worked OK. For some reason, those nut plates get impossibly hard to screw in the further the screw goes into it and the R12 screws are way too long.

You will note in the photos that I have not yet bundled and tie wrapped any of the wiring harness. After everything is completely checked out and the servos installed, then I'll do that. Never fails if you start doing that you will be undoing it later when you find a wire or something you have to move.

[Daveembry]

AUTOPILOT SERVO INSTALLATION

PITCH SERVO

Go to Dropbox and print the PITCH SERVO Pdf in the Garmin Autopilot folder. They changed the location of the small bracket (CK85001-001) and put it on the opposite side of the big bracket. It used to go on the right side of the airplane and now they moved it to the left. I mention this just in case you saw my old post or had the older drawing I had posted. I have updated this as of today, Dec. 5, 2019 to the newer drawing and way of doing it.

Note that the new drawing CC has that is shows the pitch servo WITHOUT the protective bracket that goes around the capstan for some reason. BUT....you DO use that bracket and it's installed between the servo bracket and the capstan. This last kit I got did NOT have that bracket and I had to ask Mitch why CC had changed their figure to remove it and it was also not shipped with the kit? He said it was in fact a mistake and shipped me the bracket (the bracket I"m referring to is the one that goes around the capstan and has the 4 narrow arms that come up and keep the cable from coming off the capstan.

To install the pitch servo, the arm first has to be removed. Remove the cotter pin, castle nut and washers. Before you install the capstan onto the servo, put the mounting bracket CK85000-001 in place first, then the protective "cage" bracket and then put the 4 small screws through the mounting bracket into the servo before putting the capstan in place. I used the 4 screws that came with the extra "Stop Bracket Kit" in one of the servo boxes.


P1060277.jpg


Next put the capstan onto the servo and reinstall the nut, washers and new cotter pin. Tighten the castle nut until it compresses fully the lock washer (but not to exceed 20 in lbs) and then back nut off enough to line up holes and install the cotter pin.

Note that the captain goes on with the flush side up with the 2 guide posts from the servo going into the holes in the capstan.

Then install the bracket to the servo with hardware in the figure. They show the AN3-5A bolts going through the bracket into the servo on the bottom and the AN525-10R9 screws going through the top since it attaches the bracket. NOTE that the new small bracket they are using also gets installed at the same time and mounts over the big bracket. See the drawing.

NOTE.....that the shoulder is too long for the AN3-5A and if you don't add 2 AN960-10 washers under the nuts of these bolts and 1 under the nuts of the AN525-10R9's, the lock nuts won't tighten all the way onto the bolts!!

Just be sure to use enough washers to have the shoulder covered so the nut will tighten all the way and that 1-3 threads are extending beyond the lock nut.

To install it onto the fuselage, set it in place so that the center of the capstan is on the center of the torque tube. You can’t center it on the cable since we haven't installed the elevators and put tension on the cables, they will sag.....so just tape it up for now because you want to center the capstan wheel right on that cable when installing the servo and bracket. I think the drawings are pretty good....just tape friction tape to the fuse tube before putting on the clamps; install the 3 clamps as shown and use the AN416 washers as shown (5 between each clamp and the bracket).

P1070050.jpg


You will have to drill a .25" hole in the smaller bracket and be sure and do this before starting to install the other bolts onto the bracket. Push that bolt through before installing because it can be hard to get that in because of the servo getting into the way so keep that in mind when drilling the hole.

Install the 2 forward clamps first (1 on big bracket and 1 on that small bracket you drilled a hole in) and then adjust the aft clamp so that the big bracket is parallel to cable so it's all in alignment.

P1070051.jpg


You can tighten all the clamps up but may end up adjusting them around a little later after the elevators are on and the cables tensioned.


P1070052.jpg


In the past installs, I have waited to install the capstan cable around the capstan and onto the elevator cable until after I installed the elevators and put tension on the cable but now I figure it's easier with the fuse still on the rotator, to just go ahead and install it loosely now while it's easier to get up into with the fuse on it's side instead of being under it and trying to get all the clamps in place. I went into detail on POST #131, so you can go there and see more details but note that the photos, etc are from the old way with cage bracket in place around the capstan and it shows the little bracket the opposite direction of the way it is now.

The kit will come with both plastic (included with the Dynon cable bridle parts) and metal ones from Cubcrafters. There has been some discussion as to which is better. I understand that CC used the metals ones because metal ones are required on certified aircraft so they just ship them with the kits.

Just last week, one of the airplanes I sold to someone had a problem with the pitch autopilot not working. Looking under the belly it was noted that the small bridal cable had BROKEN! The owner had previously said they he had really kicked the stick HARD one time while getting in or out and apparently he kicked it so hard it broke the damn cable!! Hard to believe but the point being is that I had used the metal clamps and I would surely have thought such a hard hit would have caused the cable to slip in the clamp waaaaay before breaking it. So how can you get any better gripping than that??? I use the metal ones.

So the servo is installed and you just want to look at the drawing and install the bridal cable with the "ball" they call it.....in the hole. So turn the capstan around by hand until that hole in the center of the capstan is facing downward in the airplane. Put the ball into that hole and take one end and wrap it around the capstan so that it's facing rear and the other forward and just take some tape and tape the small cable to the 1/8" elevator cable for now to hold it in place.


Next see the drawings and put the clamps together and notice that the clamps have a large slot and a small slot. Be sure the slots of each side of the clamps are correct before putting them together.


P1060980.jpg


Then just tighten the nuts enough to hold the clamps onto the cables for now. Then I just take all the excess cable and tie wrap it to the elevator cable for now. Don't worry about any adjustments or anything as that will have to be done after the elevators are installed and tensioned properly.


P1060981.jpg



The final autopilot installation will be done later after elevators and ailerons are installed and is covered in post #131 later in this thread.

[Daveembry]

PRE-TURKEY WORK

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone! Thought I'd get a few things done before pigging out today.

Now that the servos are all installed and testing complete, I'll go ahead and tie wrap all the wiring under the seat. Be sure to have the rubber boots where needed. Be sure the wires are all secure and will not rub on anything. A couple places I put some friction tape on the fuse tube and zip tie the bundle to it.


P1060286.jpg


P1060287.jpg


I also go ahead now and take my sharp awl and punch the fabric out where the holes are in the fuse belly pan as well as the bolt hole for the tail wheel and chains connect points. Then I take the hot iron and burn the fabric good all around the holes so they don't gum up into the threads when the screws go in.


P1060284.jpg


P1060285.jpg


It's starting to get cold here and I still need to get my wings painted out at my unheated hangar where my paint booth is, so I want to make hay when the sun shines. I like to use my rotator for the fuse while doing the wiring under the seat base but now that that's complete, I want to go ahead and get the rotator off so I can go use it on the wings when I paint them. I don't use the rotator when building, covering and putting the PolyBrush and PolySpray on the wings. It's just as easy to flip them over on the saw horses.

They say to have at least 60 degrees when painting with the PPG DUHS and I've got a couple really warm days coming up so I am going to wait and finish up the instrument panel tie wrapping, etc. and come back to it when I can't paint. I have heaters inside the paint booth but while running the exhaust fans it sucks in the outside colder air, so the temps inside the booth drops while they are running but after I'm done and the booth clear of fumes and overspray, I shut them down and turn on the heaters inside for the day and it works great.

THROTTLE & PROP CABLES

The cables come with the 2 nuts but only 1 lock washer to install it on the attach fitting on the fuse. In the totes are 2 - MS35333-43 lock washers so you can add 1 so that you have one on either side of the attach fitting and under each nut.

Look at the drawings related to the THROTTLE QUADRANTS assembly to see this.

SP58011-005 is the 70" cable and it is the throttle cable. The 57" one is the prop cable.

When you install the cables you will find later after final connection of the cables that you need to as much THROTTLE CABLE as you can get, so I only thread the joint about 3 turns and then adjust the cable with the 2 big nuts so the cable is as far forward as possible. The PROP CABLE is the opposite, you need to pull as much cable into the cockpit as possible, so screw in the joint as far as it will go and adjust the 2 big nuts so the cable is as far rearward as possible.

I don't tighten any of this up yet until after I install the engine and these cables. So...you are going to be sure and leave your interior panels off until you are all finished. I don't install those panels until I'm pretty much finished with the airplane.

ALSO, put a AN315-C3R nut (in G3X Totes) on the end of the throttle and prop cable ends before screwing them into the quadrants per the diagrams. Then after adjust them tighten this nut against the quadrant fittings.

P1060304.jpg


P1060305.jpg


When you install the 4 other cables (Cabin Heat; Cabin Aux Heat & Defroster and Mixture), you need to install a small nut behind the know so you can adjust the knob to lock in the straight up and down position. AN315-C3R in the totes.


P1060306.jpg

TAILWHEEL

So now I'm going to just go ahead and install the tailwheel (3200 "Baby Bushwheel") and the landing gear so I can get the rotator off.

Dropbox Finish Manual, Section 43 on Page 139 explains the installation except it isn't with this tailwheel. You can follow along for general info but if using the new 4 leaf springs and Baby Bushwheel, refer to the attached figure.

I've attached the drawing for the parts call-outs and installation of the wheel and springs. Note that it says to ream out the hole in the fuse to a 7/16". On my first fuse (which was serial number 2) I did in fact have to ream the hole through the fuse attach point but the one I have now (serial #17) is the correct size and does not need to be reamed. Also run the bit through the holes in the springs to clear the powder coat, etc.

I had all the hardware in my totes except for the AN960-716 washers. I did have 716L's. All the "L's" are "half-washers" or 1/2 the thickness so I'm just going to use 2 of these where the full size 716's are called for instead of waiting to get some.

Discard the bushing that come with the tailwheel and use the ones in the kit (for 4 spring).

Get your hi-tech sawhorse under the aft end of the fuse.


P1060288.jpg


Torque to 575 in lbs which is about 48 ft. lbs since I will use the bigger torque wrench for this.


P1060289.jpg


IF MOUNTING AN ACME STINGER TAILWHEEL

- Use an AN7-20A bolt to install the forward end of the stinger to the fuselage instead of the AN7-25A that is shown in the diagram for the leaf springs. Run it UP from the bottom with the washer and nut inside. I used 1 AN716L washer under the nut. This was WITH the black spacer Acme had tie wrapped to the unit in place per their instructions.

- The bushings shown in the manual diagram will not fit the 2 hole Baby Bushwheel easily. I put the bolts that came with the Acme and put them through the bushings (the ones that come with the Bushwheel, not the ones in the manual figure for the leaf springs) first, and then took a hammer and hit the head of the bolts to drive the bushings into the mounts. However, the 2 they sent on my last one had both bushings the same length (the ones with the Bushwheel) and obviously that won't work on the forward hole as it's too long so I had to cut it off to about .630 in length (ht). NOTE: The last kit CC actually shipped bushing that will fit correctly. Part #123302-09 is the bushing for the forward hole and 123302-05 is the correct bushing for the longer, aft hole in the bushwheel.

- I used 2 AN4-7A bolts UP from the bottom of the rear mount location with 2 AN416 washers on each bolt (1 under head and 1 under nut) and an AN365-428 locknut torqued to 12 ft. lbs. per Acme instructions.

- Per the Acme instructions, if 1 hole bushwheel, run AN7-16 (supplied with Acme) with no washer on bottom and 1 on top under nut and torque to 33 ftlbs.

If 2 hole, put AN7-16 in the forward hole with washer on both sides. Torque 33 ft lbs.

Run the AN7-21 in the rear hole with no washer under head and 1 under nut. Torque 33 ft lbs.

- Install shock with air valve forward and up and rear end of the shock in the most forward of the 3 rear holes. Run bolts with nuts on right side and torque to 22 ft lbs.

I explain how to adjust the Stinger in a later post #177 here http://forum.cubcrafters.com/showthr...ll=1#post25324

CABANE VEE & LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

3X3 Gear

Finish Manual Page 2.1, Section 3-2.

I do install the gear now, after I've finished with the electrical wiring and tested it all and am through using the rotator. We will have to remove the rotator anyway to install the boot cowl. I use the rotator (Bogert) itself to raise the fuse enough to get the gear under it. Just lift it by hand and lock it up high enough. No need for hoist, etc.

The bushings XC41605-001 are for. The Cabane Vee top holes. The bolts that mount to the attach fitting....and the bolts that mount to the shocks were missing........ Missing AN5-22A and AN6-17 (2 each) which mounts the Cabane V to the fuse and shocks to Cabane V. Check and see if you have them or not so you're not waiting.

Be sure and ream all the holes in the landing gear and ALSO THE STRUT ATTACH FITTING if you haven't already done this. If you did it before paint, you might want to do it again now.

Note the Cabane V (3x3 which is standard on all EX3 kits) will lean or point towards the front of the airplane when installed. You can see that by holding it up and looking. The AN5-22A bolts go through only by screwing on and not using hammer and NOTE that the nuts are not torqued tight.....only snug so as not to smash the bushings.

On the main gear, bolts .... 4x AN6-26 bolts with a AN960-616L under the head and AN960-616 washer under nut, AN310-6 and AN380-3-3 cotter pins at the tops of the main gear legs. AN6-20 with washer AN960-616 under castle nut AN310-6 and AN380-3-3 cotter pin goes where the bottom of the shock meets the gear.

I am using the Acme Aero Gen 3 Black Ops shocks (which in my opinion is WAAAAAY better than AAOS). There is an install video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V77Hg5NlDxU. The AN6-17 bolts with 2 AN960-616 under both the head and the AN310-6 nut and AN380-3-3 cotter pin; go through with the "eccentric" bushings on the top of the shock rotated to the UP position and the shock valve facing towards the INSIDE of the airplane. Also be sure and take a 3/4" wrench and be sure the nut on the bottom next to the heim is up tight against it.


P1060330.jpg


While I'm working on the fuse I just put the gear legs down onto one of these little car/atv dollies so I can move it around while working on it. I put the wheels/tires on after I push it out of my garage to load it onto the car hauler I use to take it to the hangar because with the tires on it, it won't fit under the 7' tall garage door header (even with the air all out of the tires).


P1060331.jpg

[Daveembry]

SEAT BELTS

Finish Manual Section 1-11, Page 11.1, Figure FN1-12.

Use AN315-3R nuts. DO NOT TORQUE THESE VERY TIGHT OR THEY WILL TWIST THE SCREWS OFF.

Use the split washers MS35338-43 and use an AN960-10.

REAR is (see white label on belt) is 4213-1-021-2396. The FRONT is 4213-1-011-2396 in case you get them mixed up.

Floor mounts use AN4-7A; AN960-416 going through bushing C80012-17; then seat belt then another AN960-416 under the seat belt. Both front and rear.

BOOT COWL

Go to the FUSELAGE MANUAL, Page 32.1 for installing the insulation blanket after installing the few nutplates and cabin heat box described below.

The FINISH MANUAL, Section 1-3, Page 3-1 starts the process of installing the boot cowl location of fuel line and then use the FINISH MANUAL, Pages 4.5 - 4.7 for all the figures on populating the boot cowl before and after installation of the insulation blanket.

NOTE: Update Dec, 2020. Cubcrafters has done a great job of a total re-write of the FWF Manual, so be sure and go to Dropbox for the current one if yours shipped with the old one. I'm going to go ahead and leave these instruction here that were relevant to the old manual. ALSO NOTE that they new way of installing the fuel filter outside of the fuel cover is shown in the new manual. It involves a new clamp to hold the fuel filter, new hoses and they are using a 62 micron fuel filter instead of the previous 10 micron.

Before installing the boot cowl there is a bunch of stuff we have to do but first I install the 2 - SC34204-001 Static Ports onto the boot cowl. See page 35 of the Executive Glass Manual. Later when installing the static plastic tubing onto these it's hard....the only way to do it is to heat the ends of the tubing so they will slide over the ends of these static ports. I just use the soldering Stienel tool if I can't get them on by hand or with some Armorall. They are easy enough to access and install onto the static ports after you install the boot cowl, so just be sure they are long enough for now and after the boot cowl install, you can trim them back and install them. Those clamps suck! (Hard to install)

BEFORE INSTALLING THE INSULATION BLANKET on the inside of the boot cowl, we have to install a few things.

See the FINISH MANUAL, Figure FN1-3 on Page 4.6. We will have to install 4 MS21059L08K nutplates on the inside of the boot cowl. The new manual says to use with HDW-CCR164CS-3-02 rivets but the kit has 3-01 rivets. They worked ok. These are made for dimpled installation for both the nuts and the rivets but how do you dimple the flat firewall? You can use this:

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...?clickkey=6499

Also you have to install the SK55101-001 Hangar, Splash Shield and the SK55120-001 Firewall Connection Weldment Cabin Heat, (which is connected to the SK55110-001 Box on the forward side) which will go on the outside (forward) side of the firewall using the parts callout on FF2.

Note that on the HANGAR that the bent lip will face UP and OUTWARD from the firewall. After installing the fuel pump later, the bottom of the SHIELD will slip up under this lip and then screwed into the 2 nutplates we are installing now.

They call for AN526C632R5 screws for the heater box but I think they are a bit short. There should be at least 1 thread and no more than 3 threads showing after tightening the lock nut and I can't get that with the R5 so I went with the R6 screws instead. The R5's are OK for the splash shield hangar.

P1060307.jpg


P1060308.jpg


BEFORE INSTALLING THE BOOT COWL I be sure and sand off the fronts of the 2 top fuselage holes where the bolts will come through attaching the engine mount. You need to have a good ground that will be attached later going from the engine back through the bolt to the main fuse. Be sure and on the vinyl/insulation blanket that around those 2 places on the top where the fuse will mount to the engine mount, that you cut these big enough so that the fuse will actually touch the firewall and not the blanket so a good ground will be made. That's about 1-1/2" diameter on the vinyl that you will have these holes cut. Also be sure it's bare metal with no spray on glue, etc.

We can install the SC60110-001 Fuel Drain Weldment to the boot cowl. The figures are in the FUSE MANUAL on page 35.1. I go ahead and install all the little parts there and the fuel line will be connected later through the opening in the tunnel of the boot cowl we built.

P1060309.jpg


P1060310.jpg


There are a couple of changes to the firewall from the diagrams you can see here.....


P1060312.jpg


P1060317.jpg


Also, the rerouted the aux heat cable from the drawing and eliminated the hole in the firewall where the clamp to hold it would have gone. It was just above and to the left aircraft side (right side of firewall when viewed from the front). Instead of routing it up and around the fuel pressure sensor and then down, it will just come out of that top, grommeted hole and go directly down to the box.

The electric fuel pump will need to have the psi adjusted. You can do it now or later but it's much easier now. On the left side ("out" side of the pump) you will see a small 2 mm screw with a larger set screw. Loosen the set screw and then turn the small screw counter clockwise (left) until it comes all the way out and then screw it back in a thread or 2 and then hold it where it is while you tighten the set screw. This sets the fuel pressure when the pump is on. It's a min 27 psi pump and your mechanical pump will probably be around 23.5 psi and it's set from the supplier way higher so we'll turn it down to start with. It's best to have them matched as best as possible so turn this pump down as low as it will go. Later you will double check it when you test run the engine. So when you run the engine up, look at the fuel pressure without the fuel pump on and then turn on the fuel pump and see what it reads. It will probably be higher but try to get it down to pretty much match the mechanical fuel pressure as best you can. According to the POH it should be turned on for takeoff and on final for landing.

P1060311.jpg

Most of it you can do by yourself but several screws you will need a helper to hold one side of screws on the firewall. I use this pick tool to poke hole through the insulation and liner and then stick the screw through from the inside. Then I can hold the screw in place with a razor knife blade while I put on the washer and nut.

Also note the correct part numbers for the fuel pressure sender and oil pressure transducer. The drawing shows VP6211-001 as the oil pressure transducer but the correct part number is SP71328-003.

The drawing also shows the same shows VP6211-001 also as the fuel pressure sensor but the correct part number is SP71343-001.


P1060314.jpg


P1060316.jpg


GASOLATOR. See FINISH MANUAL, PAGE 4.8, FN1-5. First you need to loosely install the 2 brackets onto the firewall that hold the gasolator. Then install all the fitting onto it except for the nut that will hold the fuel line in place. Install the big grommet onto the firewall and then press the fixture through the grommet with the gasolator going in between the 2 mounting brackets. I like to use a little Armorall sprayed into the grommet and onto the fitting on the gasolator that goes through the firewall. It's slick but when it dries, it leave no residue. Also great to use on rubber hoses, etc and around the grommets themselves when installing them onto the firewall. It will go through.....you just have to use some elbow grease and push and twist. I stick a hand up through the gasolator door in the boot cowl and press against the back side of the firewall as I push and twist.


P1060318.jpg


Safety wire and you are done with the gasolator.


P1060319.jpg


Install the Instrument Panel chafe strip SC71010-001. See Executive Glass Manual, Page 41. Just rivet using 3 of the HDW-04-00981's. Do NOT cut the chafe strip. It goes UNDER the fuse A Pillar tubes.


P1060320.jpg

It's also easier to install the vinyl trim over the panel before installing the boot cowl. The manual says to install it after the boot cowl is installed but that is pretty difficult. Much easier to do it now before sliding the boot cowl on.

[Daveembry]

BOOT COWL

Defroster

FUSE MANUAL, Page 30.1 for the details.

NOTE: OK, so in the photos here you will see where I installed the defroster piece to the cowl AFTER paint. I would not do that but rather install it before paint. The reason is as I discuss below......once you wrap the boot cowl pieces and fit them to the instrument panel, you need that EXACT position maintained when you install the defroster because one side of it goes on 1 side of the boot cowl pieces and the other on the opposite side. The masking tape we put on the joint on the top is holding it in the correct position NOW but we will have to remove that tape to paint it and you will loose the position....so that's why I like to just go ahead and install it now and it will lock in the 2 side panels now.

The boot cowl will be REMOVED when you install the defroster, so first take a sharpie and on the inside or outside of the boot cowl, mark where the pieces meet with a line so you can be sure where it it. Also take masking tape on the inside and outside joints to hold them together until you have installed the defroster.

First, be sure the boot cowl pieces are EXACTLY as you took it off the fuselage when you built is. Otherwise, if it's not exactly the same and you install this piece connecting the 2 sides of the boot cowl ......it won't fit back correctly over the instrument panel later.

- Get the screens and tape them in place over the defroster screw holes. They will line up if you get them situated correctly. Just put a little masking tape on the edges to hold them in place as you situate the defroster piece in the boot cowl. NOTE: The screens SK53002-001; are in the FINISH KIT (SKP 2 for me) and not in the FUSELAGE KIT like they should be.

- Tape the defroster into place under the boot cowl so the holes over centered over the holes in the boot cowl. The first EX3 I got, I had to cut the holes in the boot cowl but this 2nd one the factory has pre-cut these holes through the boot cowl. Once you have the unit in place and are sure the 3 screw holes on each one of them is correctly located on the sides of the openings in the boot cowl, then tape the unit to the boot cowl on the inside.

- Match drill with a long #40 drill bit from the inside, through the nutplace holes. Cleco each hole as you drill using the silver clecos.

- Remove the unit and widen the holes with a #21 bit and then screw the unit on loosely, then remove the tape on the sides of the screens before snugging up the screws. Don't over tighten as you will dent in the aluminum.



P1060321.jpg


P1060322.jpg


P1060323.jpg


P1060324.jpg


P1060329.jpg


FUSE MANUAL, PAGE 30.2, FS61 we are going to put the inside heater box on the firewall. Strange way of doing it but we connect the 2 boxes (the one already installed on the outside of the firewall and the one that goes on the inside to deflect the incoming air to either the defroster of the rear seat vents that are built into the left, interior panel) with a piece of aluminum (SK53003-001) we will bend around the 2 opening and clamp. Just bend it around the box first and clamp that side and then slip the box and this sleeve over the fitting coming into the boot cowl and install the 2nd clamp.

First I would put the hardware on the arm of the box so that is out of the way. Easier now than later.

Also, use RM0006-004 1.5" SCAT between this box and the defroster with HDW100-213 Clamps.

Note on the FS61; Section J-J on page 30.2 that a clamp is placed on the fuse tube to hold the cable going to the box to hold it in place.


P1060325.jpg


P1060326.jpg


P1060328.jpg


MANIFOLD PRESSURE FITTING
Page 4 FWF. This is the fitting that the black, manifold pressure rubber hose will connect to when we install the boot cowl. The AN807-4D fitting goes on the forward or engine side of the firewall with an AN960-716L washer and the nut goes on the inside of the boot cowl. The nut is AN924-4D. The fitting that then goes over the inside the firewall is SK55123-001 and it just screws into that AN807-4D fitting.

Put the 1" "roundit" sleeve around the wires and fuel lines going up on either side from the panel to the header panels. Secure it where it will end behind the instrument panel but don't worry about securing it yet up the post as we will do that later when we install it permanently with special tie wraps that will screw into the fuse.

P1060332.jpg

Double check that you have the spiral wrap on any cables or wires that may come in contact with the boot cowl or other parts and all wires are secure so they won't move around and rub on anything. Double check your ground screws/nuts they are secure and all other nuts are tight and torque sealed. Check all the antenna connections. Double and triple check everything. After the boot cowl gets on, anything you have wrong or have to get to later will be a pain.

Take lots of photos of close up from every angle, especially where any connectors or fuses, etc are located so you can find them later.


P1060353.jpg


P1060333.jpg


P1060343.jpg


NOTE: I'M ADDING THIS AFTER I HAVE FINISHED THE AIRPLANE AND WANTED TO SUPPLEMENT SOME CHANGES I WOULD MAKE ON THE NEXT PLANE.


I would take particular note in the EXECUTIVE GLASS MANUAL, Page 24 of the screw locations that hold the ignition box brackets to the fuse. All the bolts/screws used to secure the brackets to each other and to the fuse, I would not use nuts but nutclips on all the areas so that you can simply unscrew the screws because the nuts are almost impossible to get to when the boot cowl is on. Just imagine you only have access from inside the cockpit through that front panel area and see how hard that would be to do.

Also, when securing the sensor that the manifold pressure line goes into, I would NOT install it with an Adel clamp on the top, aft ignition box bracket. That is pretty much impossible to ever get back on if you have to remove the boxes. I would install it somewhere else so a simple nutclip can be used on that top, aft bracket screw or just a big tie wrap.

[Daveembry]

INSTALLING THE BOOT COWL

NOTE: Updated May, 2021. The new FWF manual (in dropbox) that was totally redone in Dec, 2020 is a very good update and caught lots of the things that I write about going forward from this post on, in regards to the FWF. HOWEVER, here are a few things that I sent CC regarding the new manual that you should make note of. I have NOT included the new manual updates to these posts.....so if you see a post that refers to an error, it may have been updated in the new manual and can be disregarded. You can use this to go through and redline your manual or note the errors.

- Section 2.6. FF18. Figure shows part as AN911-2D and it should be AN911-2J. This is for fuel flow transducer above the fuel servo.


- Section 2.10. FF22. Figure shows AN816-8 and should be AN816-8D.used on the oil cooler.


-Section 6.1, Page 42, FF32, Inset B has the incorrect order of callout of parts for the throttle linkage. The throttle adapter goes on, then the throttle arm itself, then the nut and cotter pin. The callout has the adapter and throttle arm switched and that won't work. There also needs to be washers added to make the castle nut fit so the cotter pin can go through. I did mine with the AN3-20 bolt; 960-10 washer; bearing rod end; 960-10 washer; throttle adapter; throttle arm; 960-10; 960-10L; nut; cotter pin. This works.


- Perhaps something on being sure to remove the oil plug for the prop in the Lycoming and how to do it.


-FF1, Page 4. Need to add in the 2 fittings that need to attach to the oil pressure transducer. Should be a AN910-1 onto the transducer and then the AN823-3D onto it and then the hose. These have been left out of this figure and not shown anywhere else that I can find except on the FINISH MANUAL figures FN-2..


-FF2 maybe?? Missing callout of aft side of firewall for the fuel pump and the aux heat box. (screws, tinnermans washers)??? Should be HDW-A3236-012-24A AND AN507C632R6 for the fuel pump and HDW-A3236-012-24A and AN507C632R7 for the aux heat box.
-
- I know people should know already but maybe a mention that the AN6 bolts attaching engine mount to fuse should be 250 in lbs torque?


- FF3 shows PROP CABLE on the OUTBOARD side of the firewall and FF33 color diagram shows in on the INBOARD side. I think the outboard side is the correct one. FF31 C-C same thing. Shows prop on inside??


- FF33 shows incorrect part number. Should be 101916-01 and not 101916-03 as shown.


- There is no diagram (deleted on new FFW Manual) that shows the hardware used to install the mixture cable clamp. AN3-4; AN960-10L; TC5011-001; AN310-3 and AN380-2-2


- SUGGESTION. I've found that it's much easier to install the mini-sensors and adjust them before installing the front baffles. Nothing is in the way at that time. Much much easier.


- Nothing showing the callout of baffle seals part numbers.

- Maybe I missed it but the old FWF Manual, FF6 showed the parts callouts for the adel clamps, etc. that connect the prop (outside) cable and the fuel line going to the fuel pressure transducer. I can't find anything on this in the new FWF Manual. It should be AN3-4A; AN960-10L; MS21919WDG8; MS21919WDG5; AN960-10L; AN363-1032. The big clamp goes over the fuel line and connects to the small clamp that goes over the outside, prop cable where they cross there between the prop and throttle cable.


OK......now proceeding with the original posts below.

I like to just take a sharpie and using the FIREWALL FORWARD MANUAL FF3, Page 6 write on the firewall, by each hole.....what goes into that hole. Then using the WIRING CHART I made, confirm each wire coming "through the firewall" (in that section of the WIRING CHART) is there and in the right hole.

FF3 in FWF Manual shows prop cable coming through the firewall on the outside (left) side and throttle on the inside.

FF31 on page 41 and FF33 on Page 44 shows the opposite with the throttle cable on the outside???

Executive Glass Manual, Page 42 and the EX3 Modular Panel Information Supplement both show them with the prop cable on the outside, left side of aircraft.

So I guess we just pick one and go with it? put mine on the outside like FF6 shows.

The wire A09D20O will actually be put onto the alternator later and it came in a separate plastic bag with your harness. It's a little short, orange wire looped into a white plug that will be plugged into the alternator later, so just set it aside for now.

Also you will see on the WIRING CHART that GEA12A24-2 is a wire we will not use, so just push it back through the firewall, cap the end with a little shrink tubing and secure it. In the carburated engines, this is the carb temp sensor wire that we won't use of course. I also have been getting the carb sensor as well and it won't be used.


P1060360.jpg

After you have populated the firewall with all the parts, follow the manual on using the guide rods into the engine mount bolt holes to slide the boot cowl down the rods just enough to get it onto the rods. Have a few spring clamps handy to clamp onto the ends of the rods on the bottom to keep the boot cowl in place.


P1060354.jpg


Also only install 1 screw to start with on the clamshell fitting that the ignition pickup sensors from the ignition boxes will go through (2 of them). It's a tight fit but they will go through.


P1060355.jpg


Then put several wraps of friction tape on these 2 wires just at the front of the fuse where the wires will be going through the clamshell.


P1060356.jpg


Remember the 3 wires in the harness in the panel that go to the FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR? Find those 3 wires and have them ready to solder.

NOTE: UPDATE Oct/2020. The latest kit I got, they have made the 3 wires coming from the harness for this sensor (the one we had to put into the connector) longer so now I can actually have enough wire to put the 3 ends of the wire through the firewall as I mount the boot cowl making it much easier to later solder these wires to the sensor. So first check to see if your wires are long enough to go through the firewall and if so, skip what I say below and instead just push them through and solder later.


P1060357.jpg


Then take the fuel pressure sensor and pull the insulation off the ends of the 3 wires (they are pre-cut so just pull them off) and then stick the 3 wires through the hole they go into at the top. Don't connect it to the firewall yet because we want all the slack we can get to solder them all together.


P1060359.jpg


P1060361.jpg


Per the WIRING CHART, solder the BLUE/WHITE wire from the harness to the BLACK sensor wire; the WHITE wire to the GREEN sensor wire and that leaves the ORANGE/WHITE wire to the RED sensor wire. I used a set of hemostats to reach into the boot cowl (with it pushed in towards the fuse enough for the wires to all reach) and grab and hold the end of the FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR wires and hold it until I could get it soldered into the solder sleeve (that is already installed on the harness side of the 3 wires.)

Also after we have run all the wires/cables through the firewall holes and verified they are all there, we will slide the boot cowl up closer and solder the 3 wires for the fuel pressure sensor and also we will cut the manifold pressure rubber line to length and slip it on the inside of the boot cowl on the other side of this fitting.

UPDATE: Dec. 2019. I had previously suggested to Mitch as to “Why don’t they make those wires a couple inches longer so it would be easier to just push them through the firewall and solder on the forward side of the firewall?”. Well, in doing my 3rd EX3 now, I see they have done that, so.....if your wires are long enough, you can ignore this part about having to connect the wires under the boot cowl and simply stick them out the front of the firewall. ALSO, if you waited to install the static lines to the ADAHRS unit until now, you will want to do that also before sliding the boot cowl all the way on.


P1060362.jpg

FINISH MANUAL, Page 4.11 First, lay the vinyl panel trim in place now instead of installing it after you out kn the boot cowl. (See below). When it's all good, just start sliding the boot cowl down/up the rods watching the sides and top to be sure they are going over the fabric side spacers and the instrument panel on top. A little tape on the side especially is good where it will slide over the fabric spacer. Follow the manual to finish the boot cowl. Note.....be sure you use the Dropbox manual....the printed one I have has some wrong info in it ESPECIALLY WHERE IS SAYS TO DRILL THE HOLES THROUGH THE BOOT COWL AND THE SIDE FABRIC SPACERS WITH A #34 DRILL BIT. IT SHOULD BE A #42 OR 43. IF YOU USE THE 34 THROUGH THE FUSE FABRIC SPACERS THEY WILL BE TOO BIG FOR THE SCREWS GOING INTO THE FABRIC SPACER! You drill BOTH with the #42 (3/32" it calls for which is about a #42) and then drill ONLY the boot cowl part with the #34.

Slide a little and check all around. Be sure the static hole fittings aren’t getting hung up on anything on the sides, watch the cutout in the bottom tunnel that it doesn’t get hung up on the pulley (especially when removing the boot cowl) and be sure the top goes over the panel and the sides go over the side fabric spacers. Remember you can pull the panel top in or out to fit the edge of the boot cowl but you may have to end up trimming the top edge where it overlaps the panel if it’s sticking out too far.

My kit was missing all the screws called out for HDW-S4R.375TA so check and if you don't have them, call Mitch now. You need 31 total for sides and bottom of boot cowl and 13 more go into the top of the instrument panel but those 13 were in my G3X totes.

I actually installed my boot cowl before I painted it only because I had painted stripes going onto it from the fuse so I had to have them match up perfectly. Look down at my previous post #70, about mounting it. On previous builds, I was using vinyl stripes that I put on later so it didn’t matter if the boot cowl matched up before paint so I just waited and installed the boot cowl after I painted it and then added the vinyl stripes.


P1060364.jpg


ENGINE MOUNT

Looking at the FIREWALL FORWARD MANUAL, PAGE 36, Fig. FF27; is the callout for bolts. The longer AN6-41 bolts will go through the top holes in the engine mount so you can see which way it goes by looking at the bolt holes in the mount. Use AN6-30A for Fusealages before July, 2018 and AN6-32A for fuselages built after July 2018. Use AN960-616 washer under AN363-624 nuts.

There is no torque value called out but standard for AN6 bolts is 250 in lbs.



P1060365.jpg


P1060366.jpg


HEATER BOX CABLE CONNECTIONS

Just a note that when you install the cable ends (wraps around between the 2 washers on the arms of the cabin heat; aux heat and defroster boxes) do NOT tighten the double nuts down on the cable where it goes around the arm on the box. The cable end should be loose and slide around on that arm as you move the cable control knob on the panel in and out. This lets the cable stay straight. If you tighten the double nuts down onto the cable end, as you move the cable in and out and the arm rotates in the box....it will grab the cable and twist it, so just tighten down on the double nuts onto the double washers and cable end until it's snug but still lets the cable rotate, then tighten that outboard nut onto the other nut to lock it in place.

INSTRUMENT PANEL VINYL

NOTE THAT ITS MUCH EASIER TO PUT THE PANEL VINYL TRIM ON NOW, BEFORE INSTALLING THE BOOT COWL. THE MANUAL HAS YOU INSTALL IT AFTER THE BOOT COWL BUT ITS MUCH EASIER TO LAY IT UP THERE AND SLIDE THE BOOT COWL ON OVER IT. IT ACTUALLY HELPS THE BOOT COWL SLIDE UP OVER THE TOP OF THE PANEL AS WELL.

Note that Page 41 of the FINISH MANUAL isn't quite right. The same thing as the RED note above. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE CENTER SECTIONS OF THE BOOT COWL WITH A #34 BIT LIKE IT SAYS! Do just as we did the sides of the boot cowl by drilling through and use a 3/32 or #42 bit to go through both and then only use the #34 on the top piece of the boot cowl so the screw will go in and grab the 2nd layer of boot cowl in the center.

CONNECTING FUEL LINES TO GASOLATOR AND FORWARD LOW POINT DRAIN

This is done after the boot cowl is installed and through the hatch opening.

I first be sure and remove any tie wraps I used to temporarily secure the lines onto the fuselage there on the left side so that I can push/pull the lines forward and aft; up and down while connecting them.

Then you can pull measure about where to cut the low point drain line remembering that if you look at the figure for those connections in the manual, it will have a 90 degree fitting there coming off the drain. After cutting the tubing (you can make it a little long and just push it back after connecting) just pull it forward in the hatch so you can have some working room and connect it to the 90 degree fitting and a little piece of tubing to connect that 90 to the drain itself. Be sure and remember to put the plastic "inserts" into the fuel lines before connecting.

Then you can just push it back aft and connect it to the drain itself. I don't use any thread sealant on the plastic connections and use the Loctite on the metal like we did with all the other fuel line connections.

Just do the same with the fuel line to the gasolator (the fuel line is the one exiting the fuel selector valve).

I do not install the hatch cover until after I have installed the wings and added fuel to the system so that I can visually check these connections after fuel is added to the tanks. I do this for the entire plane (left side behind panels, etc).

6E2A0134-9036-45CD-B8BB-3693B8157103.jpeg

[Daveembry]

FIREWALL

Run the wires and cables as shown in the EXECUTIVE GLASS MANUAL, Page 42 or the FIREWALL FORWARD MANUAL, Page 9.

After installing the boot cowl and engine mount, next connect the electric fuel pump wires. The WIRING CHART shows you that the MB32A20 wire (that should have a spade connector on it already) is connected to the BLACK, NEGATIVE wire from the fuel pump. MB31A20 goes to the RED, POSITIVE WIRE. There should be 2 of the spade connectors in the FIREWALL FORWARD kit you can crimp onto the fuel pump wires. 1 wire takes a male and the other a female connector.

Use solder sleeves to connect the 3 wires from the OIL PRESSURE SENSOR you will mount also using the WIRING CHART for directions.

Use the FIREWALL FORWARD MANUAL, Page 10 and EXECUTIVE GLASS MANUAL Page 43 to see parts to use on the firewall.

Use the Loctite 567 Thread sealer on the fittings with the untapered ends being careful to not get it closer than the 1st or 2nd thread. You just want to be sure none works its way into the openings. The ends with the tapered ends do not need the Loctite 567.

Connect AN910-1 to the Oil Pressure Sensor; AN823-3D to it and then MS28741-3-0162A hose to it. The other end goes to the engine.

Connect the CABIN & AUX HEAT cables to the boxes as shown. Remember I noted on the previous post not to tighten the double nuts down too tight on the ends of the cables where they wrap around the arms of the boxes. The wire (where you wrapped it around the arm) should spin, or rotate on that arm as you pull the cable in and out.

Connect all the fuel line fittings to the gasolator and electric fuel pump as shown.

We have to install the fuel drain. Connect the RM5593-001 hose to the fitting AN842-4 (the fig. calls out for AN842-40 but the part has no "0" at the end), then secure it with hose clamp MS35842-10. Even using the Armorall and lots of force, it's hard as hell to get the hose over this fitting. I heated it a bit first and then used vice grips to hold the fitting and pliers to hold the hose as I twisted, pushed, pounded and cussed it all the way on.

The end of the hose then attaches to the side of the tunnel in the boot cowl as shown in the figure Section K-K.

NOTE that this is the same hose material we will use to connect the MAP (manifold pressure) lines on the right side of the engine later, so remember this when you are looking for that hose material for the MAP line. You will need about 15" for the MAP line and about 17" for the fuel drain, so go ahead and cut off maybe 18" for now to use on the MAP line. There should still be a few inches extra.

P1060367.jpg

The hose SP50211-105 attaches to the Fuel Pressure Sensor with 2 parts between them. FFW Manual, Page 10 shows the 2 parts used between the FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR and the HOSE. It's AN910-1 and AN816-6-2J.

NOTE: UPDATE OCTOBER, 2020. CUBCRAFTERS HAS CHANGED THE LOCATION AND SIZE OF THE FUEL FILTER TO GO FROM THE 10 MICRON FILTER TO A 62 MICRON FILTER. ALSO, THE NEW LOCATION OF THE FUEL FILTER IS DIFFERENT AND DIFFERENT HOSES ARE GOING BETWEEN THE FUEL PUMP AND THE FILTER AND ALSO 2 DIFFERENT FLEXIBLE HOSES ARE NOW USED FROM THE FUEL FILTER TO THE GASOLATOR AND FROM THE FUEL PUMP AND THE MECHANICAL PUMP ON THE ENGINE. REFER TO SK-SI002 DATED 10-02-2020 FOR THE NEW PARTS AND INSTALLATION.

It should all look something like this at this point except for the fuel filter location and hoses notes above.


P1060368.jpg


P1060369.jpg


P1060370.jpg


P1060371.jpg


P1060372.jpg


Next we get to hang the engine!!

Just as a side note, I now have 290 hours to this point in the build. This does not count painting time.