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Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints
Hi Julian,
Did you modify your hand squeezer like these pics that were in Post #8 https://forum.cubcrafters.com/showth...ll=1#post21600
I’ve never had a problem getting to any with this setup. If it won’t fit, just grind more off until it does. There are many places you will need it like this.
Originally Posted by jjoffe@me.com
Dave Embry
"You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..
Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints
INDEX OF POSTS AND SUBJECT IN THIS THREAD
Generally, I have followed the order of the build in the thread......in other words.....I wrote this thread as I actually built the airplane. Most of the time you will notice it pretty much follows the order of the manual but in many instances, I have found that doing certain items out of order makes it easier and in a few instances, I had to skip ahead and start other sections while waiting on missing parts to be delivered.
ALSO, I have a YouTube channel with over 120 videos showing how I did many of the more difficult areas.
https://www.youtube.com/user/daveembry85/videos
- Post 1 - General Information about the build and the process
- #2 - TOOL LIST. DRILL BIT SIZES CHARTS
- #3 - TOOL LIST ATTACHMENT; WING BUILD START; ORGANIZING PARTS & INVENTORYING; ROTATOR INFO
- #4 - WING BUILD/DIAGONAL TUBES; MAKING "DOUBLE RIBS"; SPAR ATTACH FITTINGS
- #5 - DRAG WIRES; MACHINED RIBS
- #6 - NOSE RIB PREP; TRAMMELING THE WING
- #7 - REAR SPAR REINFORCEMENT; PULLEY BRACKET
- #8 - TAIL RIBS; MACHINED CLIPS
- #9 - NOSE RIBS; CAPSTRIP ON #5 DOUBLE RIB
- #10 - CAPSTRIP ON #1 & #3 DOUBLE RIBS; BOTTOM CAPSTRIP ON #1 DOUBLE RIB
- #11 - #3 RIB BRACING; #2 FALSE RIB; FLAP FALSE SPAR INSTALL; AILERON FALSE SPAR; AILERON HANGAR BRACKETS
- #12 - AILERON FALSE SPAR more detailed. WING WIRING
- #13 - PITOT TUBE TUBING; LANDING LIGHTS; RIB FAIRLEADS; LEADING EDGE SKIN PREP
- #14 - OUTBOARD RIB AND CROSS BRACE (Jump to post #22 to finish leading edge skins and wing)
- #15 - MAGNETOMETER BRACKET AND WIRING IN RIGHT WING
- #18 - CAPSTRIP PART NUMBERS LISTED FOR RIGHT WING
- #19 - COVER; TAILFEATHER COVERING; GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS ABOUT OVERING, USING POLY TAK AND POLY BRUSH; ELEVATOR COVER; STABILIZER COVER
- #20 - STABILIZER COVER FINISH
- #21 - COVER - RUDDER
- #22 - LEADING EDGE SKINS INSTALLED
- #23 - LEADING EDGE SKINS FINISHED; LANDING LIGHT LENS HOLDER
- #24 - WING TIP BOW; NUTPLATES AROUND FUEL TANK
- #25 - FUEL TANKS
- #26 - PULLEYS & CABLES; FUEL TANK GROUND WIRES; RIB SPACER BLOCKS; ADDITIONAL HOLES FOR FABRIC; HARDWARE ON CABLE ENDS - Shackles
- #27 - COVERING THE WINGS (PREP & COVER)
- #28 - SUMMARY OF COVERING THE WING
- #29 - TAPES; GROMMETS & FABRIC PATCHES ON WING; LANDING LIGHT DETAIL
- #31 - WING TAPES & PATCHES & RIVETS; TIPS ON USING POLYBRUSH ON TAPES
- #33 - POLY FIBER TIPS ON MIXING AND USING BRUSH & SPRAY
- #37 - PUTTING FUSE ON BOGERT ROTATOR; FUSE INSPECTION; BRAKE LINE CONNECTORS FOR STAINLESS STEEL LINES; PEDALS & TORQUE TUBE INSTALL; FUEL SELECTOR ASSEMBLY; FLOORBOARD INSTALL; REAM FUSE HOLES; INSTALL UNDER SEAT PARTS IN ADVANCE
- #38 - BOTTOM PULLEYS & CABLES; EXTENDED BAGGAGE PANELS & DOOR
- #39 - EXTENDED BAGGAGE DOOR ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION
- #40 - REAR SEAT CABLE INSTALL; RUDDER CABLE FAIRLEADS; ELT ANTENNA INSTALLATION; ELEVATOR CABLE FAIRLEAD BLOCKS; FUEL LOW POINT DRAIN
- #43 - THROTTLE QUADRANTS
- #44 - STRINGERS; SEAT BASE; BATTERY BOX; TORQUE TUBE INSTALL; CONTROL STICK STUBS; AILERON STOP PLATE
- #45 - HEATER DUCT; RUDDER/BRAKE PEDALS; INSTALL FLOORBOARD
- #46 - PEDAL SPRNGS; PULLEYS & CABLES; SEAT BELT SCREW HOLES
- #47 - FUEL LINES
- #48 - FUEL LINES CONTINUED
- #49 - VERTICAL FIN; ELEVATOR TRIM COMPONENTS
- #50 - TRIM MOTOR INSTALL; SIDE FABRIC SPACERS
- #51 - INTERIOR PANELS; ADDING POCKETS
- #53 - MAP POCKETS
- #54 - INTERIOR PANELS FITTING
- #55 - RUDDER CABLES; AFT CABIN HEAT DUCT
- #58 - TRIM MOTOR INSTALL & TEST; BODY FILLER
- #59 - BOOT COWL BUILD PART 1
- #60 - BOOT COWL BUILD PART 2
- #61 - FUSELAGE FINISHING UP FOR COVER; COVERING FUSE PREP
- #62 - FUSE COVERING
- #63 - TAIL FEATHER COVERING; HOW TO ADD BRUSH AROUND RIVETS
- #64 - MY POSITIVE PRESSURE PAINT BOOTH
- #65 - COVERING ELEVATORS; PREPPING FOR ELEVATOR TRIM TABS
- #68 - FLAP HANDLE ASSEMBLY
- #70 - WIRING G3X TOUCH; INSTALL FLAP HANDLE; DOOR HEADER PANELS; SOLENOIDS; INSTRUMENT PANEL
- #71 - WIRING CHART I MADE; CONNECTING WIRES
- #72 - WIRING CONT.
- #73 - WIRING - SETTING UP AND TESTING THE SYSTEM
- #74 - AUTOPILOT SERVO INSTALLATION - ROLL SERVO
- #75 - AUTOPILOT SERVO INSTALLATION - PITCH SERVO
- #76 - PREP BELLY PAN FOR SCREWS; THROTTLE & PROP CABLES; TAILWHEEL INSTALL; 3X3 GEAR INSTALL
- #77 - SEAT BELTS; BOOT COWL; FIREWALL CABLES & WIRES; FUEL PUMP; GASOLATOR
- #78 - DEFROSTER INSTALL; HEATER BOX; MANIFOLD PRESSURE FITTING
- #79 - FIREWALL WIRE ROUTING & INSTALLING BOOT COWL; ENGINE MOUNT; INSTRUMENT PANEL VINYL; CONNECTING FUEL LINES TO GASOLATOR AND LOW POINT DRAIN
- #80 - FIREWALL POPULATING WITH PARTS AND WIRES
- #81 - ENGINE INSTALL - PRE-INSTALL ITEMS
- #82 - ENGINE INSTALL CONTINUED. INSTALL ENGINE TO MOUNT
- #83 - ENGINE INSTALL - COMPLETING INSTALL. Fuel transducer,
- #84 - ENGINE INSTALL - THROTTLE BRACKET; ALTERNATE NOICE FILTER; OIL PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT; PROP GOVERNOR INSTALL; BAFFLES;
- #85 - ENGINE INSTALL - CHT PROBES; BAFFLES (CONT); OIL COOLER; GROUND WIRE ATTACH; SNIFFLE VALVE; BAFFLE SEALS
- #88 - STARTER WIRE; SIDE DOOR; IGNITION SENSORS; MIXTURE CABLE; THROTTLE CABLE; FIREWALL HOLE SEALING; FUEL PUMP DRAIN HOSE; EXHAUST PIPES
- #89 - HEAT MUFFS; ALT AIR ATTACHMENT; EGT PROBES; BAFFLE SAFETY WIRE; IGNITION COIL MINI-SENSOR ADJUSTED
- #90 - PROP INSTALL
- #91 - ENGINE COWL
- #92 - ENGINE COWL CONT.; OIL DOOR
- #93 - DOOR HANDLES; EXPERIMENTAL STICKER; STATIC PRESSURE LINES; HEATER BOX/DEFROSTER HOSES; REAR BAGGAGE CARPET; WHEEL TORQUE PLATES; INSTALL EXTENDED BAGGAGE DOOR
- #94 - BRAKE LINES; INTERIOR PANELS; PLACARDS; D WINDOWS; FLAP CONES; WINDOW FRAMES
- #95 - WINDOW FRAMES (CONT); WINDOW LATCHES; BATTERY BOX; REAR SEAT AND SEAT HOLDER; HORIZONTAL STABS; MOUNTING TIRES ON RIMS; WHEEL/BRAKE INSTALL ON LANDING GEAR; GETTING ITEMS NEEDED FOR CERTIFICATION
- #103 - PAINTING VORTEX GENERATORS; MAGNETOMETER MOUNTING
- #104 - BRAKES & WHEELS; WING PREP; STALL WARNING; VORTEX GENERATORS; TURTLE DECK RIVETS
- #105 -RUDDER & ELEVATOR TRIM TABS; WING & RUDDER LIGHTS; FLYING WIRES; RUDDER CABLE HOLES IN FUSE
- #106 - FLYING WIRES (cont.); ELEVATORS
- #107 - TIPS FOR ELEVATOR INSTALL BY PETE DOUGHERTY
- #108 - MORE TIPS FOR ELEVATOR INSTALL
- #109 - ELEVATORS - ADJUSTING; RUDDER & RUDDER CABLES
- #110 - WINGS; JURY STRUT I-BOLTS; HARDWARE LIST FOR WINGS & STRUTS
- #111 - REGISTERING THE AIRCRAFT WITH FAA
- #114 - JURY STRUTS; PITOT TUBE HOSES; FUEL SIGHT GAUGES;
- #115 - FLIGHT TESTING
- #116 - WINDSHIELD
- #117 - WINDSHIELD (cont.); A PILLAR WIRING; HEADSET HOOKS; AILERON CABLES
- #122 – AILERONS
- #123 - FLAPS
- #124 - SKYLIGHT & TURTLE DECK
- #125 - GETTING READY FOR THE FSDO OR DAR INSPECTOR
- #127 - FUEL TANK COVERS; FLAP GAP SEALS; OAT PROBE INSTALLATION
- #128 - SNAP VENTS; SIDE WINDOWS
- #131 - FUEL TESTING; CONNECT PITOT TUBE; AUTOPILOT SERVOS. - PITCH & ROLL; BELLY PAN INSTALL
- #132 - FRONT SEAT INSTALLATION; BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT; BEFORE FIRST ENGINE START; G3X SETUP; FUEL QUANTITY RESET; TRIM POSITION INDICATOR SET; FIRST ENGINE START
- #133 - OIL DOOR LATCH
- #134 - CONNECT ELT COAX TO ELT; FILLING/BLEEDING BRAKE MASTER CYLINDERS
- #135- CHECK FLYWHEEL TIMING RING
- #138 - FIRST FLIGHTS - ENGINE OIL; “BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT: DOCUMENT; CHECKLIST BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT; COMPLETE LIST OF ITEMS TO DO BEFORE FLYING
- #139 - TESTING & TROUBLESHOOTING; TAPE OFF OIL COOLER; OTHERS ITEMS OF CONCERN
- #143 - ALERTS VOLUME ADJUSTMENTS (MINE WAS TOO LOW)
- #144- PILOT OPERATING HANDBOOK
- #145 - BATTERY TENDER; EAA SEMINAR ON G3X TOUCH LINK
- #146 - ALERTS VOLUME ADJUSTMENT FOR THE COM RADIO
- #147 - AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE MANUAL (PDF)
- #148 - AUTOPILOT SETTINGS
- #153 - PART CHANGE NOTIFICATION FOR ELEVATOR BUNGEE CABLE
- #160 - Carbon Cub Tool List on Excel Spreadsheet
- #162 - Updated wiring chart spreadsheet
- #163 - List of EX3 data such as consumables (oil, plugs, grease, oil, etc) and G3X Settings and Manual locations
- #164 - Connecting the front stick#wiring to the harness
- #165 - Window Latches on wing
- #167 - Testing the magnetometer wiring
- #168 - FDGH PPG new paint Mixing instructions and links to PPG Spec Sheets
- #171 - Fuel Flow form to measure and document fuel flow for FAA (not required but highly recommende)
- #178 - Adjusting the Acme Stinger Tailwheel
- #187 - Link to many Youtube videos of installation of many EX3 parts
- #190 - 40 amp fuse replacements
- #199 - Fuel Selector maintenance/repair
- #202 - Index of posts
- #206 - Wiring the IFR panel with GNC 355, GMA245R, GTR20R, G5
Last edited by Daveembry; 04-12-2023 at 09:33 AM.
Dave Embry
"You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..
Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints
Dave:
This is great help. Two questions. First, I note that your final photo of the grommets and patches on the belly appears to have a larger inspection ring abutting a standard sized ring. What is that for and where is it. I don't see that in latest cover manual. Second, the inspection rings noted in latest drain at 10 inches and 52 inches behind left rear landing gear mount don't seem to access much. The one at 10 inches opens to floor board and the other opens under the floor of extended baggage compartment. Do you know what these are for? Necessary?
Thanks,
Phil Bruns
COVER FUSELAGE
NOTE: THE COVER MANUAL HAS 1 MISTAKE ON THE LOCATION OF THE DATA PLATE PATCH (aft, right side, small, rectangular patch). It says it’s 15.0” from the aft end of the fuse but it really should be only 14.p” or so. You can see where the data plate goes and the pre drilled holes in the plate it attaches to under the fabric and you will see that if you out it at 15”, it will not be right.
A combination of the Cover Manual and the Fuselage video pretty much covers everything here I think.
MY YOUTUBE VIDEOS ON FUSE COVERING:
PART 1 https://youtu.be/2MMnNW5cvfs
PART 2 https://youtu.be/QeBKhxs6H2o (this one out of order. Covering installing grommets and patches)
PART 2 https://youtu.be/fYKjhSSrZSE
PART 3 https://youtu.be/Z7IjrBBQIg8
PART 4 https://youtu.be/kjbrwHu5XLM
PART 5 https://youtu.be/9B2nkugesU4
PART 6 https://youtu.be/YsdEFhqTgmw
FUSELAGE TAPES AND PATCHES:
PART 1 https://youtu.be/oWKlcViX3IA
PART 2 https://youtu.be/6vJ6877ahwI
PART 3 https://youtu.be/hmsxvbR94uk
There are also a number of videos there covering applying the polybrush and polyspray to the fuse.
NOTE: The Dropbox Cover Manual on pages 77-82 made some changes in the part numbers for the tapes that are different from the normal tape numbers. The "Normal" tape part numbers that will come in the kit are 70200-12 (which is the 2" light tape) and 70200-13 (3" light tape). You will see the tapes in the wings tape figures around page 90 but if you look at the other pages for the tailfeathers and fuse on pages 77-82 you will note the numbers RM9001-005 (which are the 2" tapes) and RM9001-007 (3" tapes). For some reason it appears CC changed the part numbers but Mitch says that's what they refer to and when you actually get the tapes in your kit, it will be the 70200 series of numbers. I also noted even DIFFERENT numbers on Page 80 referring to RM9001-002 and -003 which also appear to be the 2" and 3" tapes. So there are just 2" and 3" tapes to use in these locations.
Also, the fuse figure C2 on Page 78 refers to the "Angled" rectangular grommet SC15208-001. This is a new patch they switched to and are not in the first EX3 kits shipped out. You can just use the regular rectangular patch that is not "angled" if you don't have it. A metal cover goes over this anyway so I'm not sure why they are putting the "angled" part in there. That is the grommet used on the XCub.
As I said in an earlier post about covering and applying the polybrush, etc. applies here too. Keep your polybrush nice and thin as directed but note that it evaporates quickly from your paint container as you use it so only pour a smaller amount into your cup and refill it with fresh, thin material as it begins to thicken. The problem with it getting thick when you are just doing the 2 coats of polybrush, pre-tape areas, tapes and then the coat after the tapes are installed, is that the edges of the material will get too thick. Later you are going to spray and brush in the 1st full coat of polybrush on the parts and it will blend all the edges in IF THEY ARE THIN. If you get them too thick, they will stand out. You can always get a rag with MEK and go around any thick areas and wipe some off so it will blend well.
Let me copy and past CHUCK & RYANS post regarding installing the patch around the baggage door. Good info here. Pay special attention to this because it really stands out later. I actually like to put an extra coat or 2 of polybrush around this patch to really help smooth it around the edges. When you paint, it seems the door (being very dense and smooth carbon fiber), the patch around it and then the regular fuse fabric shows up a bit different.
One thing I found that helped holding the fabric that folds back around to the backside of the baggage door is to first use the iron to iron the bend into the patch/fabric before you use the polybrush to it. Then use your clothespins about 1/2" apart all the way around the baggage door to hold it in place until it dries good.
Extended Baggage Fabric
The fabric around the extended baggage door presents some challenges. Here is what I learned:
1.Apply light weight body filler around the opening to assure an absolutely smooth surface. Any imperfections will show through. I final sanded it with 320 grit paper. A couple of additional applications were needed to make sure any imperfections were addressed, Do NOT prime it. (Details discussed in prior post)
2. Before covering, masking tape was applied parallel to the opening and about an inch to inch and a half away to establish a sharp demarcation line for the Poly Tak. A generous coat was applied on the surface that would contact the cover and left to dry. A second coat was then applied. Don’t forget to remove the masking tape before putting the fabric cover in place.
3. After the fuselage is covered and pre shrunk (avoiding the glued area) to 250 degrees the Poly Tak can be activated with MEK. I used the MEK rather generously to assure good adhesion, and let it dry overnight before proceeding. You can see the color change when the Poly Tak soaks through signaling it is working. There were a few small spots where it did not appear to stick and those were of no concern.
4. Pencil lines were drawn where cuts were to be made to facilitate wrapping the fabric. It must be wrapped into the recessed lip where the door fits, then around and under the back side of the opening. The pencil lines were coated with a thin line of Poly Tak and permitted to dry before cutting with a straight scissors, rather than pinking shears. The Poly Tak prevented fraying.
5. The fabric was first glued to the recess with aid of the hobby iron. After it had set up well, the fabric was glued to the opening. After that the ‘tail’ was cut about a half inch beyond the inside opening with a pinking shear and then glued to the underside of the opening in sections about 4 inches long to make it easier to work with. A section of aluminum was used as a tool to push the fabric in place on the back side of the opening as it dried. This took some time.
6. When finished, the opening was wiped down with MEK to assure a smooth surface, being careful not to use too much or the glue will soften and it will come apart. The final shrink to
350 ^ was done before moving on to the application of the grommet.
7. The grommet was set in place and centered, using the longeron on top and the stringer below as reference points. It was temporarily taped in place and a pencil line drawn around the outside.
8. Two coats of Poly Brush were applied along the outer surface as well as the surfaces around the opening where the fabric would contact, allowing time to dry between coats. A third coat was applied to just the outer surface and the grommet applied.
9. Once dry, cuts were made, making the cuts in different location than the underlying fabric so there would be at least one layer of fabric covering all surfaces. Using the Poly Brush the fabric was glued down. To hold the fabric on the back side of the lip, a short piece of aluminum was used, moving it inward as the Poly Brush set up. This took some time.
10. Finally any bubbles or imperfections were ironed out with the hobby iron set around 180 to 200^. A final coat of Poly Brush was applied. Job done.
Thanks Chuck.
Here are a few pictures of the patches and polybrush on my fuse. It's ready to take to the paint booth and spray and brush 1 coat of polybrush on; then 1 sprayed coat of polybrush and then 2 coats of polyspray. Then let these "gas off" for a week or so before applying your final topcoat of paint.
Attachment 8544
Attachment 8550
NOTE THAT THE SMALL RECTANGULAR PATCH SHOULD GO OVER THE DATA PLATE MOUNTING ATTACHMENT AND THE MANUAL SHOWS IT TO BE 15” FROM THE AFT SIDE AND IT SHOULD BE ONLY 14. YOU CAN LOOK THROUGH THE GABRIC AND SEE THAT THE MANUAL IS WRONG.
Attachment 8546
Attachment 8547
One thing to note on this spar/gear attach patch and fabric is that you will not have room on the spar end to slide over this fitting if you have fabric on it, so be sure it's removed back over the holes going through it.
Attachment 8548
You will note that in the manual these tapes along the window go 1-1/2" out leaving 1/2" that gets tucked into the window slot just like you did the fabric. The difference with the fabric portion though was that you were using PolyTak and not just PolyBrush as you are now when installing the tapes. I could never get it to stick well enough with just the polybrush, so I went ahead and used polyTak on the 1/2" portions that I was tucking into the window slots on both sides.
Attachment 8549
Attachment 8545
This is the area where the top 2" tape goes down the top and up the fin. You just have to make this go in 3 pieces. 1 from the front to where it just starts to bend upwards, then 1 down from the top, front of the fin to where it just starts to bend, and then the smallest piece you can get to fit between them. Use lots of polybrush to get the little short one good and wet first (it will bend and flex more). Then when putting polybrush over this joint, put an extra coat or 2 over it and use your iron set to 250 and run over the joints and it will melt together pretty much.
Attachment 8551
COVERING THE BOTTOM V TUBES WHERE THE BELLY PAN WILL GO.
You should have pre-glued the tubes there at the belly pan V (if you didn’t, no big deal. See below.) You first shrink the fabric at 250 and you will notice that the fabric will not touch those tubes when you do that since those tubes are a little lower than the 2 outside tubes where the fabric wraps the fuse. You want to do this first 250 shrink so you know the fabric is pretty close to it’s final position on the tubes before glueing these V tubes. 250 shrink just takes the wrinkles out mostly and doesn’t do much pulling like the 350 does.
So, that’s why you put the weights in the center to hold the fabric down to touch those V tubes. You would then use MEK to activate the pre-glued areas. You can also put some poly tak on the top of the fabric after using the MEK. The problem with even putting tak on TOP of the fabric (which Poly Fiber does NOT recommend you ever do even though the videos in Dropbox show CC factory guys doing it a lot) is that when you put the glue on TOP of the fabric, it will harden on the top and not get the glue down to the tubes but......if you first be sure the bottom of the fabric is glued good to the tube. If you didn’t pre-glue the tubes, then take the tak and do a very small section of the fabric and immediately push it down (with your gloved hand) though the fabric to the tube so it shows the black tube.
Let this dry very good and then cut the fabric on the inside of the V tubes enough so that you can get a good wrap (1” at least) on the V tubes on both sides and glue the fabric ends around the tubes.
Then you can go ahead and shrink that entire belly fabric piece at 350 and it should get nice and taught.
So the glueing of the tubes there isn’t a big deal to start with, just get enough of a glued area to hold the fabric until you can cut it and wrap it around the tubes which will be the strong hold before doing the tight 350 shrink.
Go over everything with the iron and get anything out you didn't catch before. Run over all the edges of the tapes and get them flat (and they will melt into the fabric more) and any bubbles or glue edges still left.
Ready to go paint! 23 hours and 55 minutes for me to cover and install tapes.
Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints
Phil.
Those patches are actually shown on the cover figure. The smaller is a plastic grommet and fabric patch that goes over the aft drain and the regular 5” one has access to the Elt antenna bracket and plumbing there at the drain.
3EBE4365-4875-4EE2-A3D1-809C16FFA85E.jpg
81F3BBB9-ACB9-4BFD-8C50-2AC93E3DCBC6.jpg
Those other 2 5” inspection holes are under the baggage areas and are used to access cables, pulleys, etc. and to generally access under the baggage floor areas. I once had to replace a bad trim sensor wire and route under the floor and these panels came in handy. If you ever have to access the elevator cables and get them in the proper slots on the bottom stringer, these come in handy.
Dave Embry
"You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..
Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints
Thanks, Dave. i guess I went a little brain dead not recognizing the “larger” hole as the one next to the fuel drain grommet. Your explanations are really helpful, as are your photos and videos.
I saw you were starting on number 8. I hope to fish mine before you complete number 10!
Phil
Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints
Well mine don’t seem quite to the same scale as the figure, they seem closer. I can’t recall, but I think I may have moved the larger hole back closer to the back of the extended baggage wall there to more easily be able to reach up and access the ELT antenna which is mounted on the bracket on the back of that panel, pretty much directly above that inspection hole.
yes! Number 8 started! I’m excited!
Dave Embry
"You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..
Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints
Dave your post #193 on 7/21/2021. A piece of heavy duty trash bag? Could you show a picture?
Jim Morrical
Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints
Sorry I do not have any photos. I just sent you a video of what I do. I know I covered this in one of my regular youtube build videos but not sure which one.
Dave Embry
"You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..
Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints
AFT HEAT DUCT INSTALLATION
Note that on the newer serial numbers that the left, interior panel was changed to no longer include the heat duct that goes to the rear seat. It is now a separate part and should be installed prior to cover. (So it should be in the FUSELAGE MANUAL)
THE FUSELAGE MANUAL MAKES NO MENTION OF THIS AND IS ONLY SHOWN IN THE FINISH MANUAL (Page 16.1) and the description and figures there are not sufficient to install it correctly.
I have added onto a post in this thread in the proper order (Post #55) with some photos of how to install it prior to cover as well as made another short Youtube video here https://youtu.be/NnYx4RdqfTg.
The link to post #55 is https://forum.cubcrafters.com/showth...ll=1#post22149.
Dave Embry
"You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..
Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints
All posts, photos, attachments and links deleted. All 139 YouTube videos removed that were related to Carbon Cub builds. For questions regarding builds, contact Kit Support at Cub Crafters.
Dave Embry
"You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..
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