<Archive Thread> Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

[Mark Keneston]

Yup, great product, have them on the front but went the T3 on the rear. Makes it almost impossible to bounce a landing but I keep trying.

Avionics boo boo. As I learned yesterday and likely might have a month or so ago had I remembered to run the OAT wire out of the LW root, there was no wire from the GEA24 for the fuel pressure sensor. I had mounted pressure sensor to the fire wall and hooked the wires for it to what I thought were the correct wires coming to it. The colors matched. The number did not. I hooked the fuel pressure sensor to the GDU25 with the same color wires as the 24. BAD!

When I realized I had not installed the OAT, it made me double check. Well one of the errors was that there was no wire running out of the GEA24 and p243 for the pressure sensor. It was not built into the harness. You might imagine some frustration trying to get at that GEA24 also once the boot cowl is on too. Once I removed the connector, I could clearly see there were no female pins in the connector at 1,2 & 4. With extra OAT wire, I figured I would make a harness with that wire since they had same color wires. I just needed the female pins. Did I see those in a tote. Nope! I saw the whole harness all 6” of it with female pins on it and solder sleeves on it too. There is no call out for this that I remember but our revised manuals will have the correction. Peace to those who find the harness and remember this. Here are a few pics of connector P243 without the pins in it and a pic of the harness GEA35A22-3.

[Daveembry]

Mark.....DUDE!!

You need to be following this thread. Look at Post #72 of mine here.....it goes into detail on doing that!

http://forum.cubcrafters.com/showthr...p-Hints/page12

🤦*♂️

Avionics boo boo. As I learned yesterday and likely might have a month or so ago had I remembered to run the OAT wire out of the LW root, there was no wire from the GEA24 for the fuel pressure sensor. I had mounted pressure sensor to the fire wall and hooked the wires for it to what I thought were the correct wires coming to it. The colors matched. The number did not. I hooked the fuel pressure sensor to the GDU25 with the same color wires as the 24. BAD!

When I realized I had not installed the OAT, it made me double check. Well one of the errors was that there was no wire running out of the GEA24 and p243 for the pressure sensor. It was not built into the harness. You might imagine some frustration trying to get at that GEA24 also once the boot cowl is on too. Once I removed the connector, I could clearly see there were no female pins in the connector at 1,2 & 4. With extra OAT wire, I figured I would make a harness with that wire since they had same color wires. I just needed the female pins. Did I see those in a tote. Nope! I saw the whole harness all 6” of it with female pins on it and solder sleeves on it too. There is no call out for this that I remember but our revised manuals will have the correction. Peace to those who find the harness and remember this. Here are a few pics of connector P243 without the pins in it and a pic of the harness GEA35A22-3.

[Daveembry]

INDEX OF POSTS AND SUBJECT IN THIS THREAD

This is a last minute add-on I added after the thread was finished to help find certain subjects in the thread since different subjects are covered in different posts. Generally, I have followed the order of the build in the thread......in other words.....I wrote this thread as I actually built the airplane. Most of the time you will notice it pretty much follows the order of the manual but in many instances, I have found that doing certain items out of order makes it easier and in a few instances, I had to skip ahead and start other sections while waiting on missing parts to be delivered.

ALSO, I have a YouTube channel with over 120 videos showing how I did many of the more difficult areas.

https://www.youtube.com/user/daveembry85/videos

• Post 1 - General Information about the build and the process
• #2 - TOOL LIST. DRILL BIT SIZES CHARTS
• #3 - TOOL LIST ATTACHMENT; WING BUILD START; ORGANIZING PARTS & INVENTORYING; ROTATOR INFO
• #4 - WING BUILD/DIAGONAL TUBES; MAKING "DOUBLE RIBS"; SPAR ATTACH FITTINGS
• #5 - DRAG WIRES; MACHINED RIBS
• #6 - NOSE RIB PREP; TRAMMELING THE WING
• #7 - REAR SPAR REINFORCEMENT; PULLEY BRACKET

• #8 - TAIL RIBS; MACHINED CLIPS
• #9 - NOSE RIBS; CAPSTRIP ON #5 DOUBLE RIB
• #10 - CAPSTRIP ON #1 & #3 DOUBLE RIBS; BOTTOM CAPSTRIP ON #1 DOUBLE RIB
• #11 - #3 RIB BRACING; #2 FALSE RIB; FLAP FALSE SPAR INSTALL; AILERON FALSE SPAR; AILERON HANGAR BRACKETS
• #12 - AILERON FALSE SPAR more detailed. WING WIRING
• #13 - PITOT TUBE TUBING; LANDING LIGHTS; RIB FAIRLEADS; LEADING EDGE SKIN PREP
• #14 - OUTBOARD RIB AND CROSS BRACE (Jump to post #22 to finish leading edge skins and wing)
• #15 - MAGNETOMETER BRACKET AND WIRING IN RIGHT WING

• #18 - CAPSTRIP PART NUMBERS LISTED FOR RIGHT WING

• #19 - COVER; TAILFEATHER COVERING; GENERAL RECOMMENDATIONS ABOUT OVERING, USING POLY TAK AND POLY BRUSH; ELEVATOR COVER; STABILIZER COVER
• #20 - STABILIZER COVER FINISH
• #21 - COVER - RUDDER
• #22 - LEADING EDGE SKINS INSTALLED
• #23 - LEADING EDGE SKINS FINISHED; LANDING LIGHT LENS HOLDER
• #24 - WING TIP BOW; NUTPLATES AROUND FUEL TANK
• #25 - FUEL TANKS

• #26 - PULLEYS & CABLES; FUEL TANK GROUND WIRES; RIB SPACER BLOCKS; ADDITIONAL HOLES FOR FABRIC; HARDWARE ON CABLE ENDS - Shackles
• #27 - COVERING THE WINGS (PREP & COVER)
• #28 - SUMMARY OF COVERING THE WING

• #29 - TAPES; GROMMETS & FABRIC PATCHES ON WING; LANDING LIGHT DETAIL
• #31 - WING TAPES & PATCHES & RIVETS; TIPS ON USING POLYBRUSH ON TAPES
• #33 - POLY FIBER TIPS ON MIXING AND USING BRUSH & SPRAY

• #37 - PUTTING FUSE ON BOGERT ROTATOR; FUSE INSPECTION; BRAKE LINE CONNECTORS FOR STAINLESS STEEL LINES; PEDALS & TORQUE TUBE INSTALL; FUEL SELECTOR ASSEMBLY; FLOORBOARD INSTALL; REAM FUSE HOLES; INSTALL UNDER SEAT PARTS IN ADVANCE

• #38 - BOTTOM PULLEYS & CABLES; EXTENDED BAGGAGE PANELS & DOOR

• #39 - EXTENDED BAGGAGE DOOR ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION
• #40 - REAR SEAT CABLE INSTALL; RUDDER CABLE FAIRLEADS; ELT ANTENNA INSTALLATION; ELEVATOR CABLE FAIRLEAD BLOCKS; FUEL LOW POINT DRAIN
• #43 - THROTTLE QUADRANTS
• #44 - STRINGERS; SEAT BASE; BATTERY BOX; TORQUE TUBE INSTALL; CONTROL STICK STUBS; AILERON STOP PLATE
• #45 - HEATER DUCT; RUDDER/BRAKE PEDALS; INSTALL FLOORBOARD
• #46 - PEDAL SPRNGS; PULLEYS & CABLES; SEAT BELT SCREW HOLES

• #47 - FUEL LINES

• #48 - FUEL LINES CONTINUED
• #49 - VERTICAL FIN; ELEVATOR TRIM COMPONENTS
• #50 - TRIM MOTOR INSTALL; SIDE FABRIC SPACERS
• #51 - INTERIOR PANELS; ADDING POCKETS
• #53 - MAP POCKETS
• #54 - INTERIOR PANELS FITTING
• #55 - RUDDER CABLES

• #58 - TRIM MOTOR INSTALL & TEST; BODY FILLER

• #59 - BOOT COWL BUILD PART 1
• #60 - BOOT COWL BUILD PART 2
• #61 - FUSELAGE FINISHING UP FOR COVER; COVERING FUSE PREP
• #62 - FUSE COVERING
• #63 - TAIL FEATHER COVERING; HOW TO ADD BRUSH AROUND RIVETS
• #64 - MY POSITIVE PRESSURE PAINT BOOTH
• #65 - COVERING ELEVATORS; PREPPING FOR ELEVATOR TRIM TABS

• #68 - FLAP HANDLE ASSEMBLY

• #70 - WIRING G3X TOUCH; INSTALL FLAP HANDLE; DOOR HEADER PANELS; SOLENOIDS; INSTRUMENT PANEL
• #71 - WIRING CHART I MADE; CONNECTING WIRES
• #72 - WIRING CONT.
• #73 - WIRING - SETTING UP AND TESTING THE SYSTEM
• #74 - AUTOPILOT SERVO INSTALLATION - ROLL SERVO
• #75 - AUTOPILOT SERVO INSTALLATION - PITCH SERVO
• #76 - PREP BELLY PAN FOR SCREWS; THROTTLE & PROP CABLES; TAILWHEEL INSTALL; 3X3 GEAR INSTALL

• #77 - SEAT BELTS; BOOT COWL; FIREWALL CABLES & WIRES; FUEL PUMP; GASOLATOR

• #78 - DEFROSTER INSTALL; HEATER BOX; MANIFOLD PRESSURE FITTING

• #79 - FIREWALL WIRE ROUTING & INSTALLING BOOT COWL; ENGINE MOUNT; INSTRUMENT PANEL VINYL
• #80 - FIREWALL POPULATING WITH PARTS AND WIRES
• #81 - ENGINE INSTALL - PRE-INSTALL ITEMS
• #82 - ENGINE INSTALL CONTINUED. INSTALL ENGINE TO MOUNT
• #83 - ENGINE INSTALL - COMPLETING INSTALL
• #84 - ENGINE INSTALL - THROTTLE BRACKET; ALTERNATE NOICE FILTER; OIL PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT; PROP GOVERNOR INSTALL; BAFFLES;
• #85 - ENGINE INSTALL - CHT PROBES; BAFFLES (CONT); OIL COOLER; GROUND WIRE ATTACH; SNIFFLE VALVE; BAFFLE SEALS

• #88 - STARTER WIRE; SIDE DOOR; IGNITION SENSORS; MIXTURE CABLE; THROTTLE CABLE; FIREWALL HOLE SEALING; FUEL PUMP DRAIN HOSE; EXHAUST PIPES

• #89 - HEAT MUFFS; ALT AIR ATTACHMENT; EGT PROBES; BAFFLE SAFETY WIRE; IGNITION COIL MINI-SENSOR ADJUSTED
• #90 - PROP INSTALL
• #91 - ENGINE COWL
• #92 - ENGINE COWL CONT.; OIL DOOR
• #93 - DOOR HANDLES; EXPERIMENTAL STICKER; STATIC PRESSURE LINES; HEATER BOX/DEFROSTER HOSES; REAR BAGGAGE CARPET; WHEEL TORQUE PLATES; INSTALL EXTENDED BAGGAGE DOOR
• #94 - BRAKE LINES; INTERIOR PANELS; PLACARDS; D WINDOWS; FLAP CONES; WINDOW FRAMES; WINDOW LATCHES/CATCHES
• #95 - WINDOW FRAMES (CONT); BATTERY BOX; REAR SEAT AND SEAT HOLDER; HORIZONTAL STABS; MOUNTING TIRES ON RIMS; LANDING GEAR INSTALL; GETTING ITEMS NEEDED FOR CERTIFICATION

• #103 - PAINTING VORTEX GENERATORS; MAGNETOMETER MOUNTING
• #104 - BRAKES & WHEELS; WING PREP; STALL WARNING; VORTEX GENERATORS; TURTLE DECK RIVETS
• #105 -TRIM TABS; WING & RUDDER LIGHTS; FLYING WIRES; RUDDER CABLE HOLES IN FUSE
• #106 - FLYING WIRES (cont.); ELEVATORS
• #107 - TIPS FOR ELEVATOR INSTALL BY PETE DOUGHERTY

• #108 - MORE TIPS FOR ELEVATOR INSTALL

• #109 - ELEVATORS - ADJUSTING; RUDDER & RUDDER CABLES
• #110 - WINGS; JURY STRUT I-BOLTS; HARDWARE LIST FOR WINGS & STRUTS
• #111 - REGISTERING THE AIRCRAFT WITH FAA
• #114 - JURY STRUTS; PITOT TUBE HOSES; FUEL SIGHT GAUGES;
• #115 - FLIGHT TESTING
• #116 - WINDSHIELD
• #117 - WINDSHIELD (cont.); HEADSET HOOKS; AILERON CABLES;

• #122 - AILERONS
• #123 - FLAPS
• #124 - SKYLIGHT & TURTLE DECK
• #125 - GETTING READY FOR THE FSDO OR DAR INSPECTOR
• #127 - FUEL TANK COVERS; FLAP GAP SEALS; OAT PROBE INSTALLATION

• #128 - SNAP VENTS;

• #131 - FUEL TESTING; CONNECT PITOT TUBE; AUTOPILOT SERVOS. - PITCH & ROLL; BELLY PAN INSTALL
• #132 - BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT; BEFORE FIRST ENGINE START; G3X SETUP; FUEL QUANTITY RESET; TRIM POSITION INDICATOR SET; FIRST ENGINE START
• #133 - OIL DOOR LATCH
• #134 - CONNECT ELT COAX TO ELT; FILLING/BLEEDING BRAKE MASTER CYLINDERS
• #135- CHECK FLYWHEEL TIMING RING

• #138 - FIRST FLIGHTS - ENGINE OIL; “BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT: DOCUMENT; CHECKLIST BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT; COMPLETE LIST OF ITEMS TO DO BEFORE FLYING

• #139 - TESTING & TROUBLESHOOTING; TAPE OFF OIL COOLER; OTHERS ITEMS OF CONCERN
• #143 - ALERTS VOLUME ADJUSTMENTS (MINE WAS TOO LOW)
• #144- PILOT OPERATING HANDBOOK
• #145 - BATTERY TENDER; EAA SEMINAR ON G3X TOUCH LINK
• #146. - ALERTS VOLUME ADJUSTMENT FOR THE COM RADIO
• #147 - AIRCRAFT MAINTENANCE MANUAL (PDF)

• #148 - AUTOPILOT SETTINGS

• #153 - PART CHANGE NOTIFICATION FOR ELEVATOR BUNGEE CABLE

• #160 - Carbon Cub Tool List on Excel Spreadsheet
• #161 - Updated wiring chart spreadsheet
• #162 - List of EX3 data such as consumables (oil, plugs, grease, oil, etc) and G3X Settings and Manual locations
• #163 - Connecting the front stick#wiring to the harness
• #164 - Window Latches on wing
• #167 - Testing the magnetometer wiring
• #168 - FDGH PPG new paint Mixing instructions and links to PPG Spec Sheets
• #171 - Fuel Flow form to measure and document fuel flow for FAA (not required but highly recommende)
• #178 - Adjusting the Acme Stinger Tailwheel
• #187 - Link to many Youtube videos of installation of many EX3 parts
• #190 - 40 amp fuse replacements
• #199 - Fuel Selector maintenance/repair
• #206 - Wiring the IFR panel with GNC 355, GMA245R, GTR20R, G5

[ceslaw]

INTERIOR PANELS

NOTE - UPDATE: I have started using nutplates instead of these plastic push rivets in the panels. I just install them onto the floorboard by drilling and installing the nutplates. I also use the plastic screw covers to go over the screw heads. I use these parts:

- AN526C632R6 Truss Head Screws into the nutplates
- 91620A100 Screw Covers, #4, #5, #6
- MS21059L06K Nut Plates

Excellent idea. I had contemplated doing this on the front right panel section to ease access to the ignition back up battery, which must be replaced annually, and the G3X backup battery. Glad to see you have done it successfully. I will do the same on the EX2 I will be starting in a few weeks.

You have put a lot of time and work into these remarkably detailed posts. I am sure many builders are very grateful for all your work. I am annotating a number of ideas, like the foregoing, for future reference.

Chuck

[Andy]

...ease access to the ignition back up battery, which must be replaced annually, and the G3X back battery.

Why do you think the ignition battery or the IBBS battery should be replaced every year? In my opinion this is a waste of time, money, and effort. Once a year perform a discharge test and plot the results. Replace either battery when it shows loss of capacity.

These batteries have a very low discharge in normal operation and I would expect them to last at least 4 years.

[ceslaw]

Why do you think the ignition battery or the IBBS battery should be replaced every year? In my opinion this is a waste of time, money, and effort. Once a year perform a discharge test and plot the results. Replace either battery when it shows loss of capacity.

These batteries have a very low discharge in normal operation and I would expect them to last at least 4 years.

I guess my comment was not set forth in a clear and concise manner. Allow me to clarify.

The ignition battery needs to be replaced annually per the Cubcrafters maintenance requirements which is part of the annual condition inspection. The G3X IBBS battery does not, as you so clearly stated. However if one inadvertently leaves the IBBS on over night killing the battery inside, it may cease to function and need to be replaced; hence the need for reasonable access to both.

In four years one of the ignition batteries I replaced annually was indeed bad. The other three were still "good." Yet they were replaced per the Cubcrafter's guidelines. I agree it is a hassle, but better to err on the side of caution given the nominal cost.

[Daveembry]

Just a note that I have over 120 build videos on my YouTube channel covering some of the more difficult build tasks. Be sure and check them out if you like. They are NOT done professionally, just raw information of me, and Iphone and my southern slang telling you how I did it!

https://www.youtube.com/user/daveembry85/videos

[bkervaski]

Just a note that I have over 50 build videos on my YouTube channel covering some of the more difficult build tasks. Be sure and check them out if you like. They are NOT done professionally, just raw information of me, and Iphone and my southern slang telling you how I did it!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsWEqEciwedUTLIK16cig7A

Dave - you rock! Thank you

[Daveembry]

40 Amp main fuse

i had a brand new fuse that came with my latest kit that was bad. It worked but then partially blew when testing the wiring after the 3rd or 4th time flipping it on. Everything went dead but then just a minute or so later, it started working again started working again for no reason. After probably having it on and off 30 or more times while setting it all up, it just lost all power again! No popped circuit breakers or anything.

I replaced it and the new one works fine with no issues. I wiggled wires etc and tried to see if something caused it but nothing so far. Hard to believe a fuse would partially go bad and then in a few minutes work again. Must have partially melted and then cooled off and maybe enough connection to work again for awhile??? But with no breakers popped, I don’t think it could be a problem with wiring.

Anyway, these fuses are somewhat hard to find. They are a “maxi-fuse” but some of them don’t fit the fuse holder supplied by Cubcrafters with the kit for some reason. It requires a fuse with the “slots” on either side longer than most. I finally found some that work fine through Amazon. 5 for $6.00. I think you should always carry a spare. I just zip tied a spare in a small ziplock bag to the wires going to the fuse holder (under the seat base) so it’s always there handy if needed.

here is the link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Andy]

40 Amp main fuse

i had a brand new fuse that came with my latest kit that was bad. It worked but then partially blew when testing the wiring after the 3rd or 4th time flipping it on. Everything went dead but then just a minute or so later, it started working again started working again for no reason. After probably having it on and off 30 or more times while setting it all up, it just lost all power again! No popped circuit breakers or anything.

Thanks for the warning. From the symptoms I would suspect a fractured rather than blown fuse. Slight heating from normal current and the fuse expands opening the fracture. Cool down and it works again.