<Archive Thread> Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

[Daveembry]

I thought I would just put here a list of items for the EX3 that I keep on my iPhone NOTES.

EX3 Data



-Engine SUPERIOR AeroSport Serial #CC363i-1012 (N836DE)

• Oil Aeroshell 100 Plus (break-in with Aeroshell M100)
• Fuel filter. Andair (www.andair.co.uk). Part FX375-MK-10MU (VP5612-003)
• Belt Gates XL 11A0915. 17317SS 62 or 63. (Gates 7360 shipped with engine).
• Belt AC Delco 15360 88934301

ALTERNATOR
Denso 021080-0760


CONSUMABLES

• Brake Fluid. Mil-H-5606 (Aeroshell #41)
• Grease tail wheel Exxon-Mobile SHC-100 or aeroshell 22
• Grease for axle bearings - Aeroshell-22 or Mobil 2
• Odessy PC680 engine battery or new one SBS -J16.
• backup ignition battery Powersonic PS-1221S. High-Tech Battery Solutions online
• Denso 1K27 #5312 spark plug (came in engine) Denso W27ESR-U. Gap .32-.40 max
• Spark Plug anti-seize Champion 2612
  
  • Torque 160 in lbs
  
  
• Fuse. 5amp blade (large); 40 amp blade (special one) under seat base
• Aerospace 303 for bush tires UV protector

Oil filter-champion CH48108-1 (TCM P/N 649922). 160 In/lbs (13.3 ft/lbs)


-Back-up battery PS-1221S Power Sonic 12v-3ah


HARTZELL Prop. MODEL HC-C2YR-1NW/NG8301W-3. Governor. Hartzell Governor Model S-173. Test results RPH high 2420; Low 1490. At 1750 rpm at 50 psi input/150 psi output capacity 10.6 qts. Internal leakage 1.2 oz. Relief Valve Pressure 298 psi.


-AILERON ANGLES. RIGHT & LEFT should be 18 degrees
-FLAP ANGLES. RIGHT & LEFT
- 1st Notch. = 14.4
- 2nd Notch = 33.2
- 3rd Notch. = 46.3




Garmin Installation Manual
page 35-33 AOA calibrations
-autopilot 35-50
-page 650 adahrs
-servo pitch wire instructions 35-47
-email G3xpert@garmin.com with questions
-page 786 i used later for calibration the fuel flow after running a few tanks through to see if it matched or not.
-705 auto pilot in air config
-668 (674) 35-4-7 AOA config

• 675 AOA In flight 35-4-7.1
• 712 autopilot in air 35-71

-654 Magnetometer 35-24
-640 adhars config
-690 Autopilot on ground check 35-49
-705 Autopilot ground 35-64 must have set up adhrs first

• page 845 Section A-1 for full flight testing of AP

-800 trim position 35.159


So you can go into the configuration menu/Engine and Airframe and then when you find the tab with the total time, hit the MENU button on the front and it will ask you if you want to make it editable. Then you can change the total time. There in that menu you can also change


Total Time–
The Total Time displays the total operating time in hours, of the aircraft. This time is displayed on both the Engine Configuration Page and the Total Time Configuration Page. The Total Time (Current Hours) can be changed by the user, see the following procedure. The Record Mode selections are listed in Table 35-16.


You can choose
-NONE or
-OIL PRESSURE (when it gets 5psi or greater it starts) or
-FLIGHT TIME (Records Total Time when aircraft is airborne as determined by GPS data and the indicated airspeed) or
-RPM (Records Total Time when RPM1 value indicates engine is running).


To set Total Time: 1. In configuration mode, select Engine, then scroll down the list using the inner right knob (or use touch screen) to highlight Total Time. 2. Press the Total Time Bar. 3. Select Menu, Show Advanced Setting (to enable editing of Total Time field). 4. Edit Current Hours and Select Save.


THIS IS FOR THE ENGINE TIME ONLY
35.4.27.30 Engine Time Configuration Engine Time – Engine Time records the total operating time of the engine, in hours, when Record Mode is set to Enabled. Engine time will be recorded whenever engine RPM exceeds the value specified in the Minimum Recording RPM field. The Standard Recording RPM field determines the engine speed at which engine time increments at 1 hour per hour. Engine RPMs greater than the Standard RPM value will cause engine time to increase faster, and slower RPMs will cause engine time to increase more slowly. For example, if Standard Recording RPM is set to 2300, engine time will increase by 1 hour if the engine is run for 1 hour at 2300 RPM, and the recorded engine time will increment by approximately 0.9 hours if the engine is run for 1 hour at 2100 RPM. This type of engine time recording is typical for piston engine applications. The Maximum Recording RPM item sets an upper limit on the RPM readings used to calculate engine time. This can be used to prevent spurious RPM signals from adversely affecting recorded engine time. If the Minimum and Maximum Recording RPM items are set to the same value, engine time will be recorded at 1 hour per hour any time the engine RPM exceeds the Minimum Recording RPM threshold, and will be not be proportional to engine speed. This type of engine time recording is typical for turbine engine applications.


To set Engine Time: 1. In configuration mode, select Engine, then scroll down the list using the inner right knob (or use touch screen) to highlight Engine Time. 2. Press the Engine Time Bar. 3. Select Menu, Show Advanced Setting (to enable editing of Engine Time field). 4. Edit Current Hours and Select Save.


GTR 200 COM RADIO INSTALLATION MANUAL. http://static.garmin.com/pumac/190-01553-00_j.pdf


Speeds
VNE- 170
VNO- 140
VSO- 48
VS1 - 38
VFE - 84
VA - 106 maneuvering
VX - 57
VY - 71
VG - 68 glide
Sink rate - 715’/min


G3X Configuration Settings
AP Pitch

• min limit - 60
• Max limit - 155

Transponder

• weight - 2000
• Max (cruise) speed - 140

Fuel flow

• 0-1 gph yellow
• 1.1 - 17.9 green
• 18.0 - 21.5 yellow
• 21.5 red line

Fuel pressure

• 0-14.9 red + alert
• 15 tick mark
• 15-35 green
• 35 tick mark
• 35.1-40 yellow
• 40 red line

Amps

• bump normal green was 0-30a, is 0-40a (alt rated at 40 a
• Optional change 40A-50A yellow and 50+ red

• AOA CALIBRATION
• min vis. 58
• Caution 43
• Stall 39
• Target 51

In RD232 config

• port 1 - Garmin instrument data
• Port 2- Connext 57,600
• Port 3 & 4 - Garmin Instrument Data
• Port 5 - none

In Transponder

• port 2 - Connext Format 1

-G3X Touch. System ID


-SXM Radio ID


WEIGHTS
-fuel tanks 12.0 lbs

NOTE: I have included below the way you can tie the electric trim into the G3X Touch auto pilot but I have heard that there were problems with servos using this system but haven’t confirmed it. I don’t do it for 2 reasons. First, If you need to change the trim it is such a small change required it just isn’t worth it. I just move my thumb a little and change it.

Secondly, if you are trimmed and cruising along, trim changes aren’t required very often. If you do not have the trim tied into the auto pilot, when the system senses increased torque on the servo as it tries to hold altitude, it will give you a yellow alert on the display saying to “Trim up”, etc. You can choose to manually change the trim and it requires only a very short blip of the trim witch. However, if you are already trimmed ......most of the time you just hit a temporary up or down draft and they system will ask you to change the trim ......BUT.....a few seconds later when the up/down drafts stop......it will ask you to trim again. I never trim it when it asks unless it goes on for a longer period of time, which is rare.

Garmin G3X Auto Trim By Bill Johnson, CubCrafters Service Center Are you tired of the Carbon Cub trim 'bump'? Yes, those of us who fly the Carbon Cub enjoy the electric trim, but the planes are pitch sensitive so you have to be quick on the trigger to prevent over trim. While on autopilot, you have to respond to the trim prompts. Not a big deal but there's a better way! For aircraft having a G3X system, the solution is auto trim. The RV builders have been using the G3X auto trim for many years and enjoy the convenience, however, CubCrafters has never offered this an option. Don't think that stopped us! There is a reason these are experimental aircraft!! With auto trim, you simply set the autopilot and let the Cub fly itself; no trim prompts, just enjoy the ride. Even with the autopilot off, you can 'set' the trim operating speed to make the bump a little easier to manage. It actually slows the trim speed at higher airspeeds and increases trim speed at lower airspeeds, even with the autopilot off. The best part? This is easy and cheap to do! Take pins 11, 12, 13, and 14 of the G3X pitch servo and connect them to the trim system. How you ask? Locate the two wires coming from the trim relay going to the trim motor under the belly pan. Cut those wires (to create 4 wires) and connect to the appropriate Garmin Pitch servo wires. This process should only take a couple of hours for the electrical work. Then configure the G3X and test fly. Tune the settings to you liking and enjoy the new capability. Don't want auto trim? Just turn it off! Reference the G3X manual for configuration and Carbon Cub schematics for trim servo motor wire numbers. On the first Carbon Cub SS I configured, the pin connections were as follows. But check for yourself! I offer no guarantee these are correct.

Garmin Pitch Servo Carbon Cub Trim Relay/Motor Wire

Pin 11 MB37D200

Pin 12 MB36E200

Pin 13 MB07D200

Pin 14 MB06E200

Now, this is somewhat easy to do, but if you would rather have a professional do it for you, give Bill a call at (270) 847-6511, or if you don't even have an Autopilot.... our order book is ready

[Daveembry]

The connectors on the EX3 from the front stick to the harness apparently doesn’t lock together when connected and pulls loose quite easily if you kick it or something. So, I am now putting a big shrink wrap on the connectors to keep them together. If it comes loose then you will not have the mic button or electric trim button working when you try it.

11E59690-2EF9-42C2-B56B-50AC49F5C6E4.jpg

[Daveembry]

WINDOW LATCHES (Holds Window Open)

I thought I would do an update on this because the factory changed the way they are doing the window frames. Looking at the FINISH MANUAL Page 19.1! Section 4-19. Figure FN4-15 and you will notice that it shows installing the window reinforcement bracket onto the window frame, but it doesn’t give you a dimension on where to install it. This is because all the window frames used to have the hole for the rivet pre-drilled but the one I just got did not have these holes pre-drilled, and the new kit I just received also do not have these pre-drilled holes.

It isn’t hard to figure out where it would go but here the info I used.


6FEB0483-818F-41DB-897D-5D74170E6909.jpg


I measured from the leading edge of the wing to the back of the front spar (which is where the leading edge skin wraps around) and it’s about 9-1/8”. You can measure this easily at the wing root if you haven’t yet put the gap seals in and/or you can feel the back edge of the spar by pushing on the wing fabric.


15A75068-FD80-4940-9FA0-B9C488808CFD.jpg


4D9163BA-55BF-4E44-85AF-D8EECA5A26ED.jpg


Then just put the bracket in place on the window frame and measure how much, if any needs to be cut. Be sure that the metal is not protruding out past the window itself because it could then let the window itself catch on the latch and that would perhaps pull the window away from the bracket. If you put the rivet/center of the bracket about 13-1/8“ aft of the front of the frame, it should be just right.



9C425A6B-E91B-42A7-870D-3150AC8650DC.jpg


Note that the figure calls for some tape RM4941-001 that isn’t in the kit. It’s the same as the RM4905-001 which is the clear tape we used under the window latch plates we mounted earlier except it’s a different width. I just used 2 pieces of this on the bracket so that it sticks to the window.

Drill 1 of the #40 holes into the wing skin while holding up the latch and then install 1 screw and then open the window again and check the position so that the window will open and catch into the latch OK without hitting the latch. Note that it always seems like it its good when you measure it but then when you go to open the latch and lock the window in place, it seems like the latch needs to go just a tad more outboard.



BB9EE755-156B-44CC-923E-1A48EDD76C0D.jpg



You will see there is a slot cut into the latch where it mounts so you can move it around some. If you drill both holes and install the screws and it still hits the window, you can always make that slot a little bigger on the side you need it to go and make it work.

[aeroaddict]

Looks great. And I agree on how you located the window latches.

Concerning the latches, they appear to cast or stamped leaving a rough parting line around the latch. My latches were pretty rough and the window reinfoirment bracket would drag terribly along the latch face when opening the windows.

I ended up using a scotch brite wheel to polish the rough parting lines where the window/bracket contacted them. Now the windows easily slide up the latch when opening.

Hope that made sense.

[Daveembry]

I know what you mean. When I open mine, I got in the habit of actually opening the latch with a thumb or fingers as in open the window all the way and then letting the latch loose once it’s open so it doesn’t drag on the outside and scratch the paint. I’ve seen some where people just pushed the window open and then the latch with that mating line, scratched a line in the paint on the outside, bottom of the window.

Looks great. And I agree on how you located the window latches.

Concerning the latches, they appear to cast or stamped leaving a rough parting line around the latch. My latches were pretty rough and the window reinfoirment bracket would drag terribly along the latch face when opening the windows.

I ended up using a scotch brite wheel to polish the rough parting lines where the window/bracket contacted them. Now the windows easily slide up the latch when opening.

Hope that made sense.

[Daveembry]

TESTING THE MAGNETOMETER WIRING BEFORE INSTALLING BOOT COWL.

I’m doing this as a supplement to post #73 because of the limitation of this forum only letting you have 12 photos and/or files per page. That post is about testing your electrical system out before installing the boot cowl over the panel.

The last 2 airplanes I wired, both of them had incorrect wiring done on the magnetometer wiring harness from the factory. I always test the wiring harness ends at the wing roots for the lighting (nav/strobe & landing lights) by turning on the switches on the panel and using a multimeter to check that voltage is present in the pins at the connectors in the wing root. I check the continuity of the wing and fuse wiring before covering.

Here is what happened.

When the airplane was completely finished, when I turned everything on, the magnetometer was not connected to the ADHRS and the RS232 boxes were X'd out and not communicating even though you could calibrate it, etc. It had power but was not talking. The MAGNETOMETER was grayed out on the System Info page of the configuration menu.



EDF62E8E-E962-4848-9DF7-99D6595B66A2.jpg

This photo is of Page 9 of the Exec. Glass Manual showing the wiring from the GSU25 out to the magnetometer.



69EA5BE0-A9F2-4965-91B5-0F148A8E6A39.jpg



9E010305-E233-4C93-9D53-37663AE80771.jpg


This photo is of the magnetometer install on page 33 and on the blank page my notes and drawing.

On my last build, the magnetometer would not come up. Mitch went to a plane on the floor and took voltmeter reading in each pin of the female end (the end of the right wing harness at the magnetometer P441) with the power on to see what the voltage should be to see if maybe there was a wiring mix up somewhere. I had already opened all the connectors there (P441); at the wing root (P111) coming up from the panel harness....and the colors of all the wires were correct.

Mitch measured the voltage at each of the pins on that connector and compared them to the voltage I had on mine. They were different and my pin 9 (power in) was wired wrong so there was no 12 v. It was on another pin. So instead of pulling the panel, etc., we just swapped the pins out to make them correct at that connector and all was good.

NOW.....here I am on this build and strange things were happening AGAIN on the magnetomer. So, I went back and did the same thing.....I measured the voltages at the P441 at the magnetometer and once again, they did not match the reading Mitch said should be there. I traced all the wiring at that connector and again at the wing root connector and all the pins matched the drawing wire colors.................but.....once again. It appears the pins were messed up under the panel somewhere.

HOWEVER, this time, they were different pins. If you look at the photo it will show you a drawing I did of the P441 female side of the connector at the magnetomer (coming down the wing from the wing root). To the right of that, you will see 2 columns with the left column labeled "Should be CC" and on the right, "N683DE". The left figures is what Mitch measured at the factory on what each pin should read and the one under my column shows what I got.

You can see it appears that the 6 & 8 pins were swapped out and incorrect since the #6 pin should be reading 3.3v or so and mine read <5.65> and the #8 pin should read <5.66v> or so and mine read 3.5.

I checked again all the pins in the connectors I could see and they all matched with the correct colors. The #6 should be a white/blue and the #8 a white/orange. I assumed these 2 were swapped so I swapped pins at the wing root at P111. Everything worked fine....in the System Info config page, a green checkmark came up; in the RS232 config file, it showed all green; in the Magnetometer config page, both boxes were green.

I know the #6 pin should read around 3.3 v and mine was reading the <5.65> and since my #8 was reading the <5.66> I'm pretty sure that they have that pin wrong either at the P113/J113 connector or at the P252 connector going into the GSU25.

So what I intend to do in the future, is to test the P111 connector at the wing root, coming up from the panel......before installing the boot cowl. You can see my volt reading for each pin on that photo. So test each one and see if you are getting these voltages. If not, it’s easy now to trace all the wires back to the connectors in the boot cowl harness and where it goes into the GSU25.

[Daveembry]

PPG DELFLEET EVOLUTION PAINT

Well I researched the new paint being used by CC and thought I'd share some of the info. Previously they (and I) were using the PPG DUHS paint that CC has been using for over a decade, but PPG had stopped making it and CC has run out now and switched to the Delfleet Evolution single stage system.

I have now painted 3 airplanes with this paint and I don't like it very much. It is much different than the DUHS paint. I would not use the reducer (up to 10% they say) unless very hot as it makes the already thin paint much thinner and a tendency to run unless you have higher air pressure and wide spray pattern.

Also, they only give you a few HOURS window to paint on top of it (like with another color, stripe, etc). It dries hard after only a few hours and you have to REALLY SAND IT or any paint you put on top will not stick!!!! Trust me!!! I had to sand an entire boot cowl off after it peeled and several other areas where it didn't want to stick on top of itself. It says to sand with 220 - 320 sandpaper!!! That's alot! Usually a light scuff with a burgundy scotch brite works BUT NOT ON THIS PAINT! Be SURE you really sand it with 220 and get all the gloss off and if adding a stripe or other color on top of this.....be sure you sand to the very edge of the fine line tape you add or the edge will peel It's quite difficult.

I was originally told by CC that they did NOT prime/seal the composite surfaces, only the aluminum. Now I hear they do, so not sure??? The spec sheets by PPG say to prime it. I did not prime any of mine previously, just nice sand with 320 or scotchbrite, clean well and paint and looks great!

The old DUHS paint used the same primer for both aluminum and composite but this paint calls for different primer for composites.

Here are the data sheets:

General Delfleet Evolution Info https://ca.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refin...leet-Evolution

DFLP Primer for plastic/composites https://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProduc...3-B1B41189FD20

F3960 pigmented etch primer https://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProduc...1-AD4DC68EBF85

FDGH Single Stage paint. When looking at the mixing ratios here, CC uses the one using the FDGH:F3260 formulas. https://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProduc...5-F4922F363BA2


Here is a note sheet I made up for myself condensing the data sheets.


Delfleet Evolution Painting

Primers

• Aluminum surfaces. F3960G primer 1:1 with F3961F Catalyst. 1 wet coat. Paint immediately after sanding/cleaning surface. 24 hour pot life. 30 min. – 72 hours before sanding required before topcoat.
• Plastic & Composite Surfaces. DP50LFG Epoxy Primer (the “50” is Gray color) 2:1 with DP402LFQ Catalyst. 72 hour pot life. 1-2 wet coats. Dry to topcoat: 30 minutes if 1 coat and 60 for 2. Sand after 1 week to Recoat/topcoat.
• Plastic Windows. (“D” windows and bottoms of front windows). Same but first spray Bulldog Adhesion Promoter on; let stand 5 minutes and then spray primer.

Topcoat

• FDGH Delfleet Evolution. Mix 3:1 with F3260 Hardener and 6 oz. F3400/F3405/F3410 Accelerator per mixed (after the mix) gallon. F3400/Fast Dry. F3405/Medium Dry. F3410/Slow Dry.
• If hot and humid you can add 10% of the reducer F3331(warm temps); F3330 (medium) and reduce flash time between coats to 5-10 minutes. I found it a little too thick without the reducer coming out of a 1.3 tip, so I did use the reducer.
• 4-5 hour pot life @ 70F. 1 cross coat or 2 coats.
• 1 cross coat or 2 coats with 5-8 minutes between coats if using the faster accelerator. Don't let it get too dry.

​Ex3 Paint Quantities Used

• wing 72 oz unmixed for 2 coats
• Leading edge of 1 wing. 16 oz unmixed for 2 coats
• Fuse. Signature plus scheme. Top half color. 25 ounces unmixed
• Fuse. Signature plus scheme. Bottom half color. 32 oz unmixed
• Boot cowl, turtle deck and prop spinner. 9 oz unmixed
• 4 struts. 18 oz unmixed paint. 20 oz mixed primer
• 13 unmixed flap gap seals, jury struts, doors (2), wing root panels (2 sides and 2 wing leading edge trim pieces)
• 2 Flaps and 2 fuel tank covers. 16 oz unmixed
• 2 ailerons 14 oz unmixed
• Cowl. 12 oz unmixed
• 2 stabilizers and 3 elevators - 26 oz unmixed

[lbell]

I got paint from CC and they didn't get the correct mix on my white. Repainted it with delfeet and it did just fine.

PPG DELFLEET EVOLUTION PAINT

Well I researched the new paint being used by CC and thought I'd share some of the info. Previously they (and I) were using the PPG DUHS paint that CC has been using for over a decade, but PPG had stopped making it and CC has run out now and switched to the Delfleet Evolution single stage system.

I haven't used this system yet but am about to. I'm told it paints up just like the DUHS single stage paints did before, which I found to be very easy to use with great pigmentation.

Here are the data sheets

General Delfleet Evolution Info https://ca.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refin...leet-Evolution


DFLP Primer for plastic/composites https://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProduc...3-B1B41189FD20

F3960 pigmented etch primer https://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProduc...1-AD4DC68EBF85


FDGH Single Stage paint. When looking at the mixing ratios here, CC uses the one using the FDGH:F3260 formulas. https://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProduc...5-F4922F363BA2

Here is a note sheet I made up for myself condensing the data sheets.


Delfleet Evolution Painting

Primers

• Aluminum surfaces. F3960G primer 1:1 with F3961F Catalyst. 1 wet coat. Paint immediately after sanding/cleaning surface. 24 hour pot life. 30 min. – 72 hours before sanding required before topcoat.
• Plastic & Composite Surfaces. DP50LFG Epoxy Primer (the “50” is Gray color) 2:1 with DP402LFQ Catalyst. 72 hour post life. 1-2 wet coats. Dry to topcoat: 30 minutes if 1 coat and 60 for 2. Sand after 1 week to Recoat/topcoat.
• Plastic Windows. (“D” windows and bottoms of front windows). Same but first spray Bulldog Adhesion Promoter on; let stand 5 minutes and then spray primer.

Topcoat

• FDGH Delfleet Evolution. Mix 2:1 with F3260 Hardener and 6 oz. F3400/F3405/F3410 Accelerator per mixed (after the mix) gallon. F3400/Fast Dry. F3405/Medium Dry. F3410/Slow Dry. 4-5 hour pot life @ 70F. 1 cross coat or 2 coats. Allow 15-20 minutes flash time if 2. 30 min. – 8 hours dry before having to sand to recoat.

[Daveembry]

Thanks. To be sure I understand, you first painted with the DUHS and then came back and put the FDGH over it and it worked? That's what Cubcrafters has told me too. I have some DUHS paint left and wanted to put it over the new FDGH as stripes and they said it works OK.

I got paint from CC and they didn't get the correct mix on my white. Repainted it with delfeet and it did just fine.

[Daveembry]

FUEL FLOW CHART

Someone asked about this and for some reason, I can't attach it to a message so thought I'd post it here.

This is a Fuel Flow Chart that FAA "likes" you to do, but not required. You damn sure should do it regardless. This lets you confirm there are no clogs etc in your fuel system.

Put plane in level position and again in critical attitude and detach fuel line after the gasolator but before the carb or fuel filter (if EX3) and time the fuel flow into a marked container.

To arrive at the max fuel flow numbers, I originally asked Mitch and was told to use 12 gph for the EX2 (CC340). My EX3’s go just a bit over 13 gph on take-off, max power so 150% would be about 18-19 gph. I’ve always gone way over, so the design of course is sound. The test makes me feel better than everything is flowing and no trash or obstructions in the fuel lines.

Now for the EX3 which has the 363i, fuel injected engine you use 125% of the max fuel flow instead of the 150% of the 340. You do it the same but turn on the electric fuel pump and measure hose much comes out. A great video seminar of this is on the EAA website at this link

https://www.eaa.org/videos/2195707082001

See the form attached.