<Archive Thread> Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

[Daveembry]

AILERONS

If you don’t have the parts numbers still around on the ailerons after painting them, note that they are identical EXCEPT the outboard side of each one is weighted. So you can grab the center hangar piece and lift the aileron and the heavy side goes outboard.

Note that the new manual did not include the old figure that showed the callout for the side pulley that the aileron cables go through. Here is the correct figure from the old manual (in red circle).

2E0FCF10-415D-4479-B64B-4600D1EBFDE1.jpg

Check to see if you are short 1 of the pulleys TC9010-001. I got 7 in the finish kit and I guess you need a round number of 8 because I was short one. Call Mitch if you don't have 2 at this point that have to be used for the aileron cables at the fuselage (on the floorboard there by passengers feet).

The manual I think is pretty clear here. It however does not give any figures or call outs for mounting the outboard end of the aileron at the wing. Here is my little drawing of how it goes:


P1060649.jpg

You use the longer pin with a AN960-416L washer under the head; a 416 & 416L between the wing fitting and the aileron fitting and a 416L on the end right before the 2 AN380-2-2 cotter pins. The pin goes in from the outboard side of the wing fitting.

Another scary part.....punching the holes through the fuse. I got a long piece of wire at Lowes and sharpened the end. Install the above pulleys temporarily (just stick the bolt through the pulley in the bracket inside the cockpit) so you can punch these holes. Get under the plane where the rear stick comes through the bottom and with a flashlight.....stick one eyeball way up as far as you can get it and look to the side and find the pulley.

Take your sharpened wire and put it on the BOTTOM of the pulley with the other end up by the end of the rear stick mast and punch the hole. It should come out just above the strut mounts at the fuse in the patch we put there.


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Take a look at the fork ends and like the manual says, find the side that has the grooved slot that the safety wire will go up into to lock it in placed and be sure it's pointing away from the wing when you put it on the fork.


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(I put blue sharpie on the cut line in this fork end. It goes away from the wing.)

Also note that the fork end will only screw correctly into 1 end of the barrel connectors. If it doesn't screw in one way, flip the connector over and screw it in the other end.


P1060652.jpg

Hand tighten all 4 cable ends together so there is about the same amount of threads exposed on each one before tensioning to the 40 lbs cable tension. I just measure along the cable going down the spar.

So just level the stick (I use the rear one as it's doesn't have the handle and is easier) to upright 90 degrees (just get it sorta close to start with and then get it near perfect later for final adjustment). Then just tighten the barrel connectors on each aileron until the ends are flush with the wing tip. Once you get them level, then start adjusting each side ...top and bottom of each one until the cable gets to the 40 lbs. When you are real close, then go back and be sure your stick is straight up and then fine tune each side until you have the 40 lbs tension with the aileron ends flush with the wing tips. You'll have to make the barrel connectors go to the point where the wire pieces will go in.

Once it's all good, go under the belly and check the set screws (Ex3....the EX2 has a different adjustment made on the floorboard plate per that manual). Take your smart level and move the stick to one side all the way and measure the angle with each aileron in the up and down position. First adjust the set screw (bolt) under the belly to that when the stick hits it, the angle is correct (the aileron will be in the UP position) at 18 deg. +- 2. You'll have to do this for each side. When finished and each aileron is around 18 degrees on both sides, then tighten the set nut on the set screw/bolt in the belly and you are done.

[Daveembry]

FLAPS

Finish Manual, Page 3.1.

Torque the castle nut to 60 in lbs and install the cotter pin. The bolt should not move. The rotation should come from the bearing and not the bolt.

You will see later when installing the flap that clearance of this screw end with the nut/cotter pin in it, next to the top of the D window is an issue to watch. So I would prefer myself to have the head on the outside for more clearance but then, how do you install a castle nut and cotter pin inside the flap?? Not. I think they use to put a locknut on the inside but since then have changed to put the castle nut and it has to go on the outside of the flap.


P1060662.jpg
(See how the end of the screw will actually touch and scratch your D window at the top if not careful and if you don't have the clearance?)

OK, if you followed this thread and my post when we installed the flap cones in the FUSE MANUAL, we installed a longer AN4-14 bolt through the flap cone and not the AN4-13 shown on FN61 on Page 232. You will also note the "note" on this figure saying you can change this by 3 lengths if needed. This figure is a bit confusing so let me cover it more.

The reason I making it longer is so it will stick out further on the flap side and let us move the flap (and that screw end) out away from the D window.

Looking at that figure, it's a bit wrong.....maybe? ...... or just hard to see so let me explain. Here is a photo of my notes:


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OK, so on the INSIDE of the flap cone we installed the AN4-14; a 416L washer and the bearing with grease on the bearing and bolt (the RM3151-001 is the grease). Be sure the bearing is flush into the cone so that it is right against the outside of the flap cone. You can see it there and also you can see the bolt head should be down into the flap cone on the inside. I like to take some balled up tape or something and wedge it inside against the head to keep the bolt from pushing back into the cone as I (single handedly) install the flap.


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(Note how the bolt head in the center of the flap cone is back into the cone? If it isn't, and it won't push back inside, then the bearing has come out of the flap cone and must be re-seated)


P1060659.jpg
(See the ball of masking tape I wedged up against the bolt head?)


If you let the bolt slip back inside, most likely the bearing will push back with it away from the flap cone and it's a pain to get it back in. You will probably have to remove the bolt and washer and bearing from the inside and try to re-seat the bearing completely flush inside before starting over.


So now going to the OUTSIDE of the flap cone, we first install the bushing SC15000-065 and then the 2 washers 416 and a 416L half washer as shown.......EXCEPT....YOU HAVE TO PUT MORE WASHERS HERE TO GET THE FLAP OUT AWAY FROM THE WINDOW PROBABLY. I actually put 2 full size 416 washers here onto the AN4-14 bolt. If you need more distance, you can change that bolt length and go with a longer AN4-15 and add more washers here.

It looks strange but these washers on the outside of the bushing lets the bolt move around in the outside flap cone as needed, so it's correct.


3C6C9AEB-94E4-4D31-8C6F-9CD767171C27.jpeg
(In this photo you can see the parts. The bolt, washer and bearing went on the inside of the flap cone and the bushing and 2 washers go on the outside BUT....NOTE THAT I HAD TO USE 2 FULL SIZE 416 WASHERS TO MAKE IT WORK INSTEAD OF THE 2 SHOWN HERE. 416 & 416L half washer)


P1060658.jpg
(This photo shows the outside flap cone with the AN4-14 bolts sticking out, the bushing installed next to the flap which is on the inside, and the 2 washers called for. However, I instead used 2 of the 416 washers here before putting the flap on.)

Be sure and protect your D windows both at the top and also note that until you get the flap rod connected to your flap handle, the flap will drop down and will hit the lower part of your D window so be sure and be careful. I put a few layers of tape on the window and then cut a couple pieces of the foam packing material and after I install the flap, I can rest it down on this foam while I get the flap rod installed.


P1060661.jpg
(Note the foam and tape holding the flap away from the D window at the bottom until the flap rod is installed)

I start the greased bolt into the flap/aileron hangar from outboard to inboard and then take the bolt coming out of the flap cone and point it aft. With the flap resting on my head (yeah....really) I guide the inboard end of the flap very gently onto the flap cone bolt being sure to not jamb it and push the bolt back into the cockpit area. As soon as I get it out enough to grab the end of the bolt, I do grab it and pull to keep it out. Then you can let go of that end and take the outboard end of the flap and bring it up to the hangar and push that bolt through.


P1060657.jpg

Then go back to the inboard end and gently raise the flap up and with the flap pushed over towards the fuse, be sure that screw end coming out of the flap with the cotter pin over the top of it......doesn't rub up against your D window at the top. If it does, you will need more washers down there on the outside of the flap cone bearing.

If it's good, install the 416L washer, castle nut and cotter pin onto that flap cone bolt. You will see another discrepancy between the Figure and the written manual. The figure says to torque the bolt and then go 1 more notch to install the cotter pin and the written part says finger tight, so we will torque it according to the figure. (probably about the same tightness either way)

On the outboard end, then go down and slide in spacer washers between the hangar and the outboard flap as needed and finish up.


P1060662.jpg


I then install the flap rods as soon as I can because i hate seeing that flap up against the D window. Now you can see why we installed all the flap handle fittings when we did the fuse instead of doing it now like the manual shows!!! Instead of trying to install the bearings, bolts, nuts and cotter pins up inside that wing root......all we have to do is screw in the flap rod. Note that the flap rods are directional like the barrel connectors. Screwing them in 1 direction will thread the rod ends into the flap rod both at the same time. If you have it backwards, it will not thread onto either end. I test it first and mark which end goes forward to save time.

Insert it up into the wing root being sure it won't touch anything else and I get the front of it started into the flap handle first....just start it a couple threads until attaching the rear one at the flap. You can then hold the rod and maneuver the flap bearing around and into the aft end of the flap rod and get it started. Then just twist the rod and you will see the flap raise up. I take a spring clamp on the ends of the ailerons (with masking tape down first to protect the paint) and clamp them flush with the wing tip instead of just masking tape. Rotate the flap rod until the flap is level with the aileron with the flap handle in the up position.

After the flap rod is in, I will tie down any loose wiring in the wing root and then install the skylight and turtle deck last. That way it’s easier to get to any wires from the top if needed.

The manual is good for all else I think.

[Daveembry]

SKYLIGHT & TURTLE DECK

I have a YouTube video here https://youtu.be/RWPNemWHnZo

Check to see if you have all the hardware needed to mount the com/gps antenna on the turtle deck. The last kits I got did not have this hardware and you will want to install it before mounting it.

I don’t install the skylight or turtle deck until I finish installing the flaps and ailerons . I like having the wing root top areas open until those are installed and wiring, etc. all tied down finally.

ANTENNAS

Different antennas use different hardware. I have the combo com, gps and WAAS antenna VP6250-003 Comant CI2580-200, so this is the hardware that works for it. The COM/GPS antenna will require longer screws.

Here is what you need:

4 - AN526C832R12 Screws
1 - SC26008-001 Gasket, Antenna
1 - SC71344-001 Backing Plate, ComDat Antenna
4 - MS35338-137/#8 Helical Split Lock Washer
4 - AN340-C8/Plain Hex Nut 8-32 SS

I think the manual is pretty easy to follow on these items.

Page 7.2 is wrong where it states to put felt tape down with the part number being RM4905-002. That part number is for the 3M doubles sided tape which is what has always been used in the past. So either the comment of “felt tape” and the photo 4-026 wrong? If they intended to change from the double sided tape to the felt tape, then the correct part number for that would be RM1002-003. ???? Until I get confirmation back from them, I’m going to put the felt there instead of the tape like we use to do.

Another thing that is not right is the figure on Page 7.3, FN4-8. RM4011-001 is the 1” tape we used on the front of the windshield. Not enough in the kit and in the past, we used 2 layers of the RM4905-002, 1/2” double sided tape and that’s what I use. The figure is not correct because it shows putting that 1” tape on the tube there just in front of where the rear of the turtle deck would sit. Wrong. It won’t even touch the turtle deck if you out it there. Lay the turtle deck in place then just put a line of masking tape on the rear edge. Remove the deck and then put the 2 layers of the 1/2” tape forward of that tape line. That is where the deck will contact the top of the fuse, not on that tube. In fact, if you look, the deck will not even touch the tops of those side tubes where you out the tap. Pretty much just touches at the skylight joint and the rear there where we just put the tape.

Also note they leave out a big part on both the skylight and turtle deck, and that is that you obviously have to first match drill the front of the skylight before installing.

Same thing on turtle deck. It has to be match drilled before starting the install. I would match drill these holes first and wait on doing the match drilling of the sides of the turtle deck where they will meet the 3 rivnuts in the wing root. Drill the top holes and install it with the skylight in place, and then match drill those 6 (3 each side) holes to match the rivnuts.

NOTE the direction the skylight goes on. The holes for the vents are on the right side. (I don’t know that it makes a difference?)

I also change up the order of doing thing in the manual a little bit to make it easier to install the skylight screws/spacers in the middle. So here is how I do it....

First install the windshield and set the skylight in place and match drill the front holes where it will mount over the windshield. Mitch says they mount it either way there....sometimes putting windshield overlapping the top of the skylight or vice versa. If you put the skylight on top of the windshield, you will have a big gap to silicone in the front of the trim strip or it will be on the backside if you put the windshield on top. I think this looks nice and more aerodynamic? Probably doesn't matter.

The front holes are drilled out to .250" with the step drill and countersunk. Loosely install the trim skylight and top windshield screws through the trim strip. The screws are AN526C632R9. (See FN54 on Page 207, Windshield install)

NOTE. ITS PROBABLY BEST TO WAIT ON THIS STEP AND NOT MATCH DRILL THE REAR HOLES YET UNTIL YOU DO MY NEXT STEP BELOW OF INSTALLING THE SPACER SCREWS BECAUSE THEY SLIGHTLY PUSH YP THE SKYLIGHT AND MIGHT SHIFT THE POSITION. Next match drill the back of the skylight to the rear fuse holes that are already in the tapped out for the screws. I just use a #40 drill to match drill the holes and then us the unibit/stepdrill to go to the .250" hole and countersink the 4 holes that go into the fuse crossbar. The 2 holes going into the rivnuts on the sides will go to .180" size only and countersunk. Don't install screws into the 2 outside hole that go into the rivnuts since you will first place the fuel tank covers and match drill this hole into the fuel tank cover and then install the screw. So the screw goes through the tank cover and then the skylight .....into the
Stall
I do not follow the manual where it says to go ahead and install the front of the skylight with the cover strip, etc. I will be removing the skylight first to drill holes, countersink and then matchdrill the spacers and matchdrill the rear.

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Now I skip ahead in the manual and go to Page 10-1, Section 4-10 FINISH MANUAL and drill the holes for the skylights in the middle where the spacers will go. The reason I do this before mounting the skylight/turtle deck is because its easier to locate and drill the holes in the skylight now if we can push up on the skylight when following the manual with installing the screws into the spacers and fuse to locate the drill holes. This just gives you more room to work and no sense not doing it the easy way! It’s actually easier than I describe below. I remove the skylight to drill the front holes after having matchdrilled them with the windscreen and then screw in the screws with the spacers into the tubes under the skylight. Then put the skylight back up and matchdrill for those spacers and the rear holes. Then remove the skylight again to drill out and countersink the holes before installing that front trim piece.

The screws going into the 4 holes through the back of the skylight and turtle deck overlap is AN526C1032R10 Fig. FN4-9.

SCREWS/WASHERS THROUGH THE SKYLIGHT INTO THE FUSE CROSSTUBES. First cut 5/16" off the long bolts. I use my dremel. I then run them onto any 10-32 nut just to be sure they aren't burred and will start easily. Then take the longer spacers and longer screws and using 1 hand, you can push up the back of the skylight and go ahead and slide the screw through the spacer and screw it into the pre-tapped holes in the top crossbar. Keep your hand holding up the skylight while screwing all 4 in so you don't scratch it.......or, you can just remove the skylight and put them in place. If you removed the skylight like I mentioned above, it’s even easier to screw in the screws with the spacers in place.


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After all 4 are screwed down then gently set the skylight down onto the screws and put some masking tape on the back of the skylight where it will mount with the turtle deck onto the fuse, just to hold it in place just right. Then you can take a #40 bit and I just drill about half way down into the skylight for now, marking all 4 holes right over the center of the screw heads.

I have also just removed the skylight and screwed the 4 screws in with the spacers. Then put the skylight back in place with a couple screws in both the front and rear and drill the small holes over the screw head. Then remove it and drill and countersink these holes.



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(Look directly down through the skylight and drill a mark right on the center of the head of the screw under it.)


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Matchdrill the rear holes to the fuse.

Then go drill the holes the rest of the way with the #40 bit and then use the unibit/stepdrill bit again and widen to .250" and countersink just like the rest.

Now.....after I have removed the skylight and drilled out and countersunk these holes, I then take a little silicone and put some around the holes in all 8 of the big, black washers that will go on either side of the skylight. Don't put too much or it will just squish out and make a mess....just enough around the hole so it keeps water out. I do this right before I intend to install the skylight so the silicone doesn't really get hard yet and can still slide a bit if I need it to.

I just stick the washers right over all 4 holes both inside and outside and give them a little PUSH to bed them in right. Look through or stick a screw in to be sure they are lined up. Then I put the skylight in place with a couple screws in the front and back.

Now, stick all 4 bolts through the washers/skylight from the top. Long bolts in front and short in rear. Now go inside and take the 4 spacers (long in front) and push the screw up enough to get the spacer started then get the screw so it's all the way through the spacer and then when you have just a bit of screw exposed on the bottom side right above the fuse crossbar it will go into, wiggle the spacer around and you will FEEL that screw go into the area where it will screw in. Do this will all 4, then go up top and with a screwdriver you should be able to get them started into the fuse. Screw them down but not tightened up until you have fully tightened all the front and rear screws in the skylight to be sure it's position perfectly before tightening them down. Easy...... NOTE that you will do this after doing the turtle deck match drilling/fitting shown next.

Now we can match drill the forward end of the turtle deck where it overlaps the skylight. First I take some silicone or glue or grease and take the 4 plastic wedges that go under the skylight 4 holes that go into the fuse crossbar.....and set them in place just under the 4 holes. You can just lift up the back of the skylight to get them in place or what I do is just silicone (or superglue) them in place the day before I intend to work on this area so they are solid in place and won't move.

Be sure and install the RM1072-001 tape onto the back of the turtle deck where the flaps will hit/slide/move on. See FN6, Page 247.

Use your hole finder tool.....


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and match drill the holes from the 6 holes across the aft end of the skylight and the other 3 holes on each side of the turtle deck that are the rivnuts in the wing root. I use masking tape and then clecos to hold it in place as I do this to be sure it doesn't move. You can use some screws too.


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(Put the hole finder dimple into the hole on the skylight).


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(Then I just used a #30 bit to drill down onto the hole finder tool)

Widen the 4 holes across the forward end of the turtle deck that goes into the fuse to .250" and all the rest of the holes (2 on the forward end outside edges and 6 outside edge ones that go into the rivnuts) to .180" and deburr.

Run a nice bead of silicone along the top of the skylight where the turtle deck will sit and then start the 4 screws into the forward, center of the turtle deck, down through the skylight and the wedges. Don't tighten until you install all the other, smaller screws. Then go back and tighten all the skylight and windshield screws ....front and back......after you have pulled all the red tape off the taped areas. The 8 smaller screws used on the holes that go into the rivnuts are the AN526C632R8 with plastic washers. These aren't shown anywhere in the manual.


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The manual has quite a few errors in the turtle deck area. Page 9.4 say AN526C1032R6 screw goes down into the hook but that is wrong. Should be a 632R6. you won't do like they say for the 2 screws in the back of the turtle deck where it goes through the cargo hook. Just drill a #30 hole and then use an AN526C632R6 screw with a plastic washer under the head and an AN365632A nut. They do not use the countersink (manual wrong), washer etc as shown.

I've also had to add about 5 washers to the screw that goes down before it hits the 'hook' with the hole in it. If you put that screw down and tighten the turtle deck aft corners down, you will notice it will slightly buckle the outter, aft edge of the turtle deck because of the angles. If you add 5 or 6 washers under the turtle deck, between the turtle deck and that hook with the hole in it, it will keep the deck up high enough to keep it from buckeling.

[Daveembry]

GETTING READY FOR THE INSPECTOR

OK, we are now in the red zone and getting close to being ready to get our FSDO or DAR to come and give us an inspection and Special Airworthiness Inspection.

UPDATE: 2020.
I JUST FOUND OUT THAT FAA IS NOW REQUIRING YOU TO FILE FOR YOUR SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE ONLINE VIA THEIR PORTAL. YOU JUST UPLOAD ALL YOUR DOCUMENTS, ETC IN ADVANCE AND THEN SCHEDULE THE INSPECTOR. HERE IS THE LETTER THEY PUT OUT.

Dear Applicant:

Effective 31 Mar 2020, the FAA is required to utilize a new automated process for issuing all Airworthiness Certificates except for export certificates.

Aircraft owners, agents, and other individuals applying for an Airworthiness Certificate or a change to a certificate are encouraged to use the following links to learn more about the process, register for system use, and to make application.

Airworthiness Certification Process: https://www.faa.gov/aircraft/air_cert/airworthiness_certification/aw_cert_proc/
Airworthiness Certification (AWC) tool: https://awc.faa.gov/AWCExternalApplicant/Splash/Index
Through the AWC portal, applicants will have the ability to submit and track airworthiness applications for:

• Standard Certificates • Special Certificates • Special Flight Permits • Special Flight Authorizations • Amended Certificates • Exchange Certificates • ReplacementCertificates
• Multiple Certificates • (Currently excludes exportcertificates)

While completing the required data fields, applicants will be able to request a specific designee or the appropriate FAA office for application processing.

Since the FAA and designees are required to use the automated process for all AW certifications even if submitted in paper (FAA Form 8130-6), we are requesting your participation in using the new on-line tool to expedite the airworthiness certification process.
Sincerely,

TODD A. EVANS
Aviation Safety Inspector

Will Rogers FSDO
Oklahoma City, OK.
AFG-WRS-FSDO-15
405-951-4231

ALSO, now to apply for an airmans certificate (Repairmans Certificate in this case), you have to make that application online here https://iacra.faa.gov/IACRA/default.aspx. Note that you have to put the date of the aircraft certification and you can't date it for a future date, so you have to wait and complete this application on the date of your Airworthiness Inspection if you are wanted to get it signed off at the same time (which is what I do).

If using the local FSDO office inspector, it doesn't cost you anything (other than the taxes we pay) but with the DAR, you will have to pay them.

Contact the FAA office and see which way you want to go and then contact the inspector and just ask him how he wants to handle it. In my area, my local FSDO Inspector asks that I email him all the paperwork in advance. He reviews it and responds with any questions and/or corrections he wants me to make or advises of anything missing. Then he will set up an appointment to come out and do the inspection.

Each one will be different. There are form they require and some items they may or may not ask for such as a Builders Log and/or photos (with you in them preferably). My guy here told me the first time that he was not there to do an inspection of the quality of workmanship, etc of the build but to inspect that all the required paperwork, decals, placards, etc were installed properly. He needs to be satisfied that YOU were the actual builder and this is where the Builder Log (like the Excel one I use and included in one of the earlier posts) is good to have as well as photos. I did not actually email him photos but told him I would have them available (via computer disk) to him at the inspection time. He never looked at any of them. He did look over my first Builders Log however.

They can usually ask a few questions and talk with you a few minutes about the plane and know if you built it or not.

My inspector here knows me now and knows I'm the builder, so he no longer asks for the Builders Log or anything other than the required forms ........which are:

- FAA FORM 8130-6 Application for Airworthiness Certificate.
- FAA FORM 8130-12, Eligibility Statement Amateur-Build Aircraft. This form must be notarized.
- Program Letter (in the Dropbox files, CERTIFICATION DATA)
- Weight & Balance Documents. Certifcation Data files
- 3-View Drawing (in the Dropbox Files CERTIFICATION DATA. There is a folder with the manual and also individual pdf fallible files)
- Completed Conditional Inspection (I attached a blank one and my completed one)
- FAA FORM 8610-2, Application for Airmans (Repairmans) Certificate. Go ahead and apply for this at the same time so you can do the annual Condition Inspections yourself.

Before the inspection, you will also need:
- FAA FORM 8050-3, Aircraft Registration Certificate. This is the Registration Certificate which I requested a few weeks ago and have received in the mail. You have to have this in the aircraft. If you have applied but not yet received it back, I think they will let you go ahead and get the AWC now.
- N number installed per their requirement
- EXPERIMENTAL placard installed
- DATA PLATE installed (call Mitch to get yours)
- PASSENGER WARNING placard.
- ELT installed
- Have all aircraft maintenance records (logbooks for airframe, engine and propeller)
- All cockpit instruments labeled for operation.
- Recommended but not required...... FUEL FLOW TESTS
- Airplane must be ready to fly.
- Make the required logbook entry..... "I certify this aircraft has been inspected in accordance with the scope and detail of Appendix D to Part 43 and has been found to be in a condition for safe operation."

This is it. I recommend using the EAA certification kit we gave the link to previously as they have sample of all these forms and checklists.

I am again going to attach the forms I submitted to my FSDO man a few days ago so you can see how I actually filled them out. Again, I register in a corporation so you can see where the builder/manufacturer names are required and listed as the corporation name. The repairman's certificate is however in my name so I am personally named as the "builder".

FAA FSDO offices were closed during the recent government shutdown but I called my FSDO last week anyway to schedule with him. I went ahead and sent in all the forms except the weight and balance (since I still wasn't quite finished and haven't weighed it yet) so I could get "in line" ....and on his schedule. I'll have the weight and balance ready along with all the original documents that I emailed him.....available when he does the inspection. I will however go ahead and attach the Weight & Balance Documents I had for my last EX3 so you can see how it was done.

The Weight & Balance one is on Word so you can edit it. It explains how to do each step but also notice that the built in tables have Excel spreadsheets built into them with the programs to automatically calculate everything. You just need to fill in your specific weights and arms for your plane after you weight it and just edit those numbers only in the first 2 tables showing the most aft and most forward situations. These calculations FAA uses and want these STANDARD weight included....so just edit your total weight; arm and moment.

In the last table, use your correct number for pilot weight so they will be accurate. This table should be how it will be when you do the first flight test. Forward is the most safe to start with.

To edit the Excel tables, just double click inside the table and then edit. When you are finished just click outside the table anywhere.

FUEL FLOW CALCULATION

I attached a form for this. It isn't required by FAA but strongly suggested.

[Daveembry]

Well I guess SOMEONE is following this thread. Today just surpassed 20,000 views!

I’m pretty much finished with the build now and would love to entertain any problems, questions, clarifications etc. anyone might have from this point forward. I’ve tried to follow the manual and only comment on areas I thought needed clarification or correction and may have missed areas that others may not understand. I’ve had lots of private emails and phone calls and I’ve tried to touch on those areas that were questioned but I’m sure there are more.

My 4th kit just shipped to me last week, so I’ll be following this thread again myself as a reference.

What else would you like to see or have more explanation about? Please post it here and let’s discuss it.

[Daveembry]

FUEL TANK COVERS

YouTube video Part 1 https://youtu.be/QC5Mnje4KPg

Part 2 https://youtu.be/-Xt1f-UkTAA

Someone ask me about these so I'll go over them a bit.

You don't need to drill the holes or fit them until about the last thing you do......after paint.

First, locate the nut plate holes where the screws will go. Remember there were 7 in the nose and flap false spar area and 5 on either side of the fuel tank bays. The ones on the sides are about 5- 1/8" apart and the front and rear ones are about 4-1/8" apart.....roughly.


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(Note that this is the front, inboard edge and this rivnut is the one in the wing root in line with the top of the windshield/forward end of the skylight. The forward wing root cover will actually be under the fuel tank cover and a screw will go through it and the skylight and go into that rivnut and the fuel tank cover will go over all that.)

I just get the light right and look down and you can usually see the 2 rivets for the nutplates and you know the hole is between the 2. Just locate one on a side and then take you sharp awl and poke a hole. Then measure to the next general area and look close and you will see the next rivets/nutplates.......poke a hole. You will see the exact measurement between the 2, so just measure on down to the others and poke holes.

Then take the soldering iron and burn all the holes out.


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Remove the masking tape, install the rubber grommets and fuel caps onto the tank. Take a tank cover and put in place and generally just center the hole opening around the filler cap. The hole covers have already been installed at the factory, so you don't have to follow the manual with installing those.

Get some masking tape and move the covers around with that filler cap generally centered in the cover. Mask it down and then go around with your small HOLE FINDER and just find a hole on each corner and be sure the edge distance is good on the cover. Put several piece of masking tape down to hold it in place once you are sure all the edge distances are good on all 4 sides and start drilling with a #30 or #40 bit into your HOLE FINDER. Cleco as you go.

You can just leave your hole finder under the cover and slide it on down to the next hole. You don't even have to look......just slide it down about the right distance and go fishing.....you will know when it pops down in the hole.


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After you are done, try and blow away all the drilling chips or keep them from falling down into the tank bays.

Use a #15 bit or a #1 unibit and go down to the 3rd step which is about .180 in all the holes and deburr. Put the covers aside.

Be sure the sides of your skylight are down into the 2 sided tape we put down and then follow the directions for applying the silicone on all 4 sides of the skylight and the skylight/turtle deck joint.....and the sides of the turtle deck where it overlaps the wing.

Let this set up a day or so before installing the fuel tank covers since they will go over the top of those skylight edges.

The screws/hardware is in the COVER MANUAL. The screw are the AN526C632R8 and they don't call for it but you should also use the small, plastic washers that we have been using elsewhere.

So, there are 24 screws into each tank = 48 total and you have to SCREW those plastic washers onto the screws right.....since they are so small they won't just slide.....over the screw. Here is a way to quickly install those washers on the screws.

Take a block of wood and drill a #5 or so bit into it an inch or so.


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Take the washer and just get it started on the screw and put it over the hole. Take a screwdriver and give it a twisting push......down and the washer will push up on the screw.


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LASTLY, I don’t remember where this info is but you should install the 3/4” foam weatherstripping onto the farther inboard and outboard fuel tank straps. This is a cushion for the covers to rest against. Use the RM-4906-001.

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FLAP GAP SEALS

Just a note that the manual has things in reverse order here. Don't install the flap gap seals until you have done the 2nd thing the manual says to do ....... which is to first place the flap wing root piece in place. If not, you will follow the manual.....set the flap gap seal all in place and 1/16" gap, etc. and the read the next page where you have to first place this piece......so you take it all apart and start over! ugh......

So first, get the flap wing root piece and you will have to slide it in place with the upper part UNDER the turtle deck a little bit.

Next you can get the FLAP GAP SEAL and put it in place overlapping the flap root seal and tape it in place. Before getting the gap all right and putting screws in, you will first need to know where that flap root seal goes because it will line up with the WING ROOT PANELS that cover the lower wing root by the windows. So set this piece in place and just tape it for now. The manual tells you how to align it as it goes over the top of the window (in that gap between the plexiglass and the header panel). I just align it with the window frame hinges that are there.


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Note that if you removed the part number stickers on these pieces, you will note that one end has 2 pre-drilled holes in the end. That end goes AFT. Hopefully you painted the correct side????

Once you get it taped in place that looks good and is parallel with the window, then you can now align that flap root seal with it so that the outboard side is aligned with the wing root panel. Tape these pieces in place and now go work on getting the gap right on the flap gap seals.

The manual says to just screw in these little screws. I lower the flaps to the first notch to get the initial placement and I just gently push the flap gap seals onto the wing from the rear and then tape the top in a few places and then go under the wing and put a couple pieces of tape there also.

Then I go raise the flaps completely forward so I can see the finished gap. I take a thin piece of cardboard maybe 1/16” or so thick to use as shims to hold the gap. You will note that with the top of the seal taped in place that you can simply push or pull on the aft edge of the seal to make the gap larger or smaller because it just moves the bottom front edge forward or aft.

I just put my 3 cardboard shims under the seals on both ends and the center to get my gap, then just tape that bottom, forward edge real good (as well as being sure the top edge is taped well too) and I removed the shims and see that I have an even gap all the way across. I make it very small (width of the cardboard).

Then just do as the manual says and install the top and bottom screws on the ends and middle and then finish out the rest of the screws, checking the gap to be sure it hasn’t moved as you go.

As I said elsewhere, I do NOT like to install the window root panels with the screws until after I have tested the fuel system with some fuel in the tank to watch for leaks. I just leave them taped in place for now.

OAT PROBE INSTALLATION

If you look in the Executive Glass manual, there is a photo there regarding the Outside Temperature Probe. Is in incorrect in stating that it goes in the right wing root. It goes in the LEFT wing root.

Before you install that front wing root panel, first drill a 3/8“ hole 1-1/2” from the windshield and 2” aft of the front of the leading edge and install the probe. First insert the probe through the round connector on the attached ground wire and then through the wing root piece. Put the rubber washer on the outside of the probe and then the special nut that should have come with the probe in a separate plastic bag.

Note that you do NOT cut any wires, etc. as directed in the manual.


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[Daveembry]

SNAP VENTS

UPDATE: 2020. I have done this to 2 different airplanes. One 1 I put the extra vents on the door side and no problems but twice I put it on the left side (non-door side) and both times, the window has cracked as a result of the vibrations. Even when I made very sure here was alot of camphor on the cuts I made, it still started cracking from the hole. I think because the prop blast comes down the left side of the airplane, there is much more vibration from airflow on that side......so I don't put them on the side windows any more.

How about a couple extra snap-vents in the side window for us southern folks where it's HOT? I've done this on all my planes and it makes it really nice but I was sure scared of cutting those holes after all the war stories I heard. After some research here is what I found that has worked great so far.


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1. The instructions that come with the snap-vents say to use a 3-1/4", metal cutting hole saw with 6 teeth or more per inch. Makes sure it has a mandrel as well to hold it steady while cutting.


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2. I take the window inside the house to stay warm and then use a heat gun a bit to warm up the plastic so it's not so brittle. They recommend 70 degrees or more.


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Obviously you want to protect the plastic so I put it on a moving blanket on my ENGINE CRATE work table and then take a soft piece of wood and put under the area you are cutting and another one over towards the center of the window to keep it more level.

3. Drill a starter hole through the center of the spot you want to cut. It's very important that you hold the window down very hard and tight against the wood to keep it from jumping around as this will cause it to crack I guess.


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4. Next start the hole saw into the hole by first going slowly through with the larger, center mandrel bit in the center of the hole saw and then cut about half way through using a slow speed. They say 300-400 rpm but I go really slow.....just fast enough to be sure the teeth aren't biting in and "jumping around" but not too fast that if a tooth catches it won't jerk around too much on the window and possibly crack it. The mandrel is good because it goes down into the block of wood and holds the saw steady but still use one hand and hold down window flat against the block as you cut.


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I usually find one side or the other doesn't cut as much as the other so I usually flip it back over again (after cutting on both sides) and catch the last part that needs to cut all the way through.


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5. Probably the most important to keep your hole from having cracks later is to cut down the edges like we do when we countersink all the holes we drill in plastic. I really like using my serrated edge pocket knives for this. The serrations are great because the edge just goes into a groove and it holds it there as you go around the edge.


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So I go around both sides of the hole and scrape the edge down and I smooth the center of the cut as well to be sure it's smooth. My understanding is that very minor, microscopic cracks form in plastic when you drill/cut into it and by smoothing the edges of the cut, you cut out those minor cracks without creating more. Any minor cracks you can't even see will cause a big crack to start and keep moving until you stop it by drilling a very small hole out in front of the crack.

These 2 extra vents (in addition to the 2 up in the skylight) will be really nice in the hot summer cruising along at 130 mph in the EX3.


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WINDOWS

Check out the short Youtube video on installing the side windows here https://youtu.be/Vsra2cOhjPc

Here is a drawing showing the installation of the weatherstripping on the side windows.

[ceslaw]

Will there be a clearance issue when the window is latched in the open position? I have not measured the space but recall it ain’t a whole lot.

[Daveembry]

Will there be a clearance issue when the window is latched in the open position? I have not measured the space but recall it ain’t a whole lot.

Chuck, yes there is room. In the closed positions the snap vents are a very neglible height on the outside and if you have them open and forget to close them before opening the window, they just pop closed no problem. Gets lots of great airflow on those hot days.


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[Daveembry]

FUEL TESTING

Watch a video on this here https://youtu.be/1u8okDP7d0Y

To test your FUEL FLOW ...... go to my post #171 here https://forum.cubcrafters.com/showth...ll=1#post25123. The form to calculate it and a good link to the EAA website video/seminar on this is posted there.

FIRST, turn your fuel valve selector to OFF position.

After weighing the plane for the weight and balance calculations, I put 2-1/2 gallons in the right tank first after putting the plane in level, flight condition.

NOTE: I found that this little 46" high stepladder is absolutely PERFECT for leveling my EX3 with 31" tires and Baby Bushwheels! Just put the level on the inside of the door opening and the bushwheel in the paint can holder at the top of the ladder and done! You can always add some shimming material if you need to raise it or change main tire pressures as well. I use tire pressure to level the plane left to right when working wing rigging, weighing, etc.


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With the plane in level flight conditions, the wings are of course at a positive angle of attach so the fuel will go to the back of the tanks. With 2-1/2 gallons in the tank, I marked the fuel sight gauge with a sharpie (Gordon Gilchrist gave me this idea. Thanks Gordon). You can see in the photo below that it just barely came into the bottom of the sight gauge.


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Turn the fuel selector valve to the RIGHT tank.

With this small amount in the tank, I can check for any leaks anywhere before putting alot of fuel in because.......sure enough......I had a small leak in the quick drain at the rear of the fuse. It didn't leak at first but after I used the fuel strainer cup to check for fuel at that location, it starting dripping.

So, I drained the fuel out at the gasolator drain and removed that quick drain fitting and sure enough, there was some crud on the oring. From now on I will really clean those orings before installing those fittings but at least I didn't have 44 gallons of fuel I had to drain.

I leave off the covers at the bottom side of the wing roots until after I've done this so I can look and feel up in the wing root to check for any leaks. I just taped those piece on for weighing earlier.

Move the fuel selector valve to the LEFT tank next.

Next I put 2-1/2 gallons in the left tank and checked for leaks anywhere in the left wing root. Also look real close UNDER the fuel selector valve to be sure there are no leaks around that valve. It will probably show up on the outside of the fuse under valve area on the outside of the fuse and where the boot cowl meets the fuse. Keep a close watch here for several weeks to be sure there isn't a slow leak there that seems to be occurring alot with these valves because of dirty or faulty orings inside. Spin the fuel valve around several times to all the positions.

If everything looks good at this point and I have marked the 2-1/2 gallon mark, I then went to the gasolator with the fuel selector valve set to the right tank....and drained all the fuel out that I could. In the level flight position, I got just over 1-1/4 gallon back out of the 2-1/2 gallons that went in.

That means that in level flight, there would be 1-1/4 gallons unusable in each tank or 2-1/2 gallons total out of the 44. HOWEVER, when flying.....the vented fuel caps pointed into the wind will pressurize the tank and most likely force more fuel out??? You think? However, read below after I filled the tanks to see that the tanks REALLY don't hold 44 gallons!

I understand that the engineers calculated that there would actually be 2-1/2 gallon each tank....or 5 gallons unusable total (39 usable out of 44 total) because of fuel available during certain maneuvers such as a hard turning, high angle of attack situation such as a climbing turn take-off. So I will still set my G3X up to show a total of only 39 gallons of usable fuel but I do know that I will have 2-1/2 gallons more. I plan to fly a tank dry completely during flight testing just to see how much fuel will remain in flying condition (level, stabilized flight).

If all is good and after having done all this with the 2-1/2 gallons in the tanks, move the fuel selector valve to OFF and I'll go ahead and put 2-1/2 more gallons in each tank and again mark the fuel sight gauge where it is exactly. So now in level flight, I will know EXACTLY when I have 5 gallons and 2-1/2 gallons in each tank.

You can see that the 5 gallon mark is actually just under the 1/4 mark on the placards.


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The next thing to do is to fill the tanks completely full and let's see exactly how much the tanks hold. I already have 10 gallons in....so should be able to get 34 more gallons in BUT I WASN’T ABLE TO.

I WAS ONLY ABLE TO GET 32.5 MORE GALLONS IN THE TANKS SO THAT MAKES A TOTAL FUEL CAPACITY OF 42.5 AND NOT 44 SO IT’S 1.5 GALLONS SHORT!

I was extremely careful when filling the tanks. The fuel pump I was using at my airport had just been calibrated 2 weeks ago, so hopefully it was right on. After filling 5 gallon portable fuel tanks with this pump and putting in the airplane, When I filled the tanks the rest of the way, I filled 1 side to the rim and then went to the opposite wing and filled it. I then returned to the first wing and topped it off again since some fuel can cross fill to the other side while I was filling.

THE FULL FUEL CAPACITY THEN IS 42.5 WITH ADVERTISED 5 GALLONS UNUSABLE IN ALL CONFIGURATIONS THAT MAKES 37.5 GALLONS USEABLE AND NOT 39 AS ADVERTISED. I do know from my test though that actually there was only 2.5 gallons unusable in the static, level configuration for 40.0 useable.

Maybe the advertised 44 gallons would be the capacity of the fuel tanks in the level flight attitude but we don’t fill the tanks in that attitude but the 3 pt.

PLEASE: IF SOMEONE ELSE DOES THIS TEST WOULD YOU PLEASE POST YOUR RESULTS.

UPDATE MARCH, 2020: I DID THESE SAME TEST ON MY NEXT AIRPLANE AND GOT DIFFERENT RESULTS. I DID THE TEST EXACTLY THE SAME SO I HAVE NO IDEA WHY THE RESULTS WOULD BE DIFFERENT BUT HERE IS WHAT THE NUMBERS ARE ON THIS AIRPLANE.

I put the 2-1/2 gallons in each tank to check for leaks. 5 gallons in total.

Then, in the flight level position, I drained as much fuel as I could through the gasolator with the fuel selector switch on BOTH. I drained 3-1/2 gallons out which means only 1-1/2 gallons remained in BOTH TANKS (so about 3/4 of a gallon on each side).

SO, in this case.....in the static, level position the unusable fuel is only 1-1/2 gallons.....not the advertised 5 gallons. NOTE that that does not necessarily mean it will be this in a configuration other than static, level position.

NEXT, I started the engine and ran it for about 15 minutes to get to the airport fuel pump and filled the tanks. It held 33.9 more gallons so that means it held 43.9 gallons plus the amount I had burned starting the engine and running it to the fuel pup......probably less than 1/2 a gallon. So with the tanks and fuel lines full, it did indeed hold 44+ gallons full.

Both tests were done identical but with different results. I have no idea why so test yours to see what it will do.

FUEL FLOW CALIBRATION

The first few tanks of fuel I’m sure to reset the fuel used on the FUEL tab when you have the engine management page open. After refilling the tanks completely, I compare the actual fuel used to what it says was used on this page. I do this for several tanks of fuel being sure to reset it each time. Then I used this formula to then go into the CONFIG menu of the G3X and “calibrate fuel flow” using the formula here. Then keep track of several more tanks and make any further adjustments needed until it continually comes in with the actual fuel used matching what this page says.

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PITOT TUBE WITH AOA

If you have the G3X with the GAP 26 Pitot with AOA then you will need to install it. Hopefully you left enough of the blue and green tubes so they were long enough to stick down through the mast so you can grab it and push it into the pitot tubes. The BLUE tubing goes to the FRONT aluminum tube coming up from the pitot and this is the pitot tube. The rear one has the GREEN tubing of course and this is the AOA tube.

You can see this on page 34 of the EXECUTIVE GLASS MANUAL.

You will need to cut about 8" off the aluminum tubes coming up from the pitot and heat the blue and green tubes so soften so you can push over the pitot tubes. The length callout in the manual is for about 5.0” on the shorter, aft tube for the AOA and about 5.50” for the forward, Pitot tube on the Gap 26.


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You locate the bracket you installed on the wing and then cut out the center where the mast will go as well as the inspection hole to the outside of that. The mast will go up, into the wing and then down through the bracket and you locate and punch out/burn the holes in the fabric and install the 4 screws from the mast into the bracket.

Then reach in and push the blue and green tubes down through the mast and put them on the pitot and then screw the pitot into the mast with the 4 screws.

In the manual you will see that the BLUE tube is the pitot line and goes on the longer, FRONT (forward facing) tube going into the GAP26 pitot and that leaves the GREEN tube for the AOA going onto the shorter, AFT (aft facing) tube on the Gap 26.

I also put some silicone around the connection of the blue and green tubes onto the aluminum pitot tubes just to help seal and keep them secure. I let that dry overnight before pushing the pitot up into the mast and securing.

AUTOPILOT SERVOS

Before securing the belly pan, we need to finish the installation of the servos and install the pilot seat.

NOTE: You will have to go into the configuration menu to AUTOPILOT and change the direction of the PITCH servo to “REVERSE” as it act backwards from normal. Go to the Installation Manual to around page 700 for instructions and on page 705 then test the autopilot.

PITCH SERVO

Follow the instructions that comes with the pitch servo kit. You have to install the cable onto the servo and onto the elevator cable. It isn't that hard but hard to understand. The cable has a little metal "tit" on it in the middle. Just turn the servo round part until the hole in the center of it is facing down and put that cable "tit" into that hole. Then as you look up from the ground, route one wire around the left side of it (under the cable guards), keeping it in the slots. You will have to go under 2 of the cable guards and leave it sticking out towards the rear of the plane up at the top. This cable will attach to the elevator cable there on the aft side.

Do the opposite with the other cable. Note the instructions say to have the cable a "minimum of 1 complete wrap". This always confused me on how to get each cable a full wrap but it isn't "each cable"....it's just the "cable". So if the tit is on the bottom and 1 side wrapped 1/2 way around and sticking out 1 side at the top....the other will wrap 1/2 way around and be sticking out the top in the opposite direction.....that IS 1 full wrap.

Cubcrafters ships some better, metal pieces that holds the 2 cables together. Use them instead of the white, plastic ones that come with the kit from Dynon. You can see 1 side has a bigger slot cut in it and 1 side smaller. Just put the bigger 1/8" elevator cable on the big side and the smaller, servo cable on the other. Just attach one side or the other and before tightening up the 2nd cable, pull it tight but be sure that tit is still in the center of the servo round part and that it is centered downwards, right over that bottom cable guard.


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Also not that the cable from the servo will be very close to touching that 1 fuse cross tube.


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To make it work and keep the clearance.....look here how you install the cable clamps more upwards...towards the floorboard bottom. Just move the clamps back and forth (or front and aft I guess) until you are sure you have good clearance of everything and check when you move the stick full forward and aft.

By pushing the clamp up sort of parallel with the elevator cable, it will bring that little cable up high enough to not rub on that crosstube.


You have to do that with the rear one as well.



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ROLL SERVO

This one is much easier. I taped the correct rivet to the torque tube back during fuse construction so I wouldn't have to look it up and hunt it down now.

Center your stick/ailerons and then look down into the seat base so you can see the torque tube and where the servo arm attaches. We loosely installed the bracket and arm onto the torque tube during the fuse build. With the ailerons/stick centered, move the bracket on the torque tube until it's perpendicular (90 degree angle) to the servo and so that the arm coming up off the servo is about centered between the "stops" on the servo bracket.

Snug up the bolt and nut on that torque tube bracket and then gently go move the stick right and left and be sure you have clearance and not hitting either stop and then torque the nut on the torque tube bracket.

Drill #30 hole through the bottom of the bracket and install the rivet. Good luck....it's very hard to get the rivet gun up there around the tubes, etc. to grab that rivet!! The way I got it to work was to have 1 arm of the rivet gun up above the bottom tubes and the bottom arm below. It took about 10 little squeezes to get the rivet snugged up and pulled since you can't clamp down all the way on the handles because of the tubes in between. Move the stick back and forth to one side of the other and find the place where it puts that rivet hole in the easiest way to get to.


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BELLY PAN

UPDATE: GO TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS POST AND SEE THE UPDATED DIAGRAM I ADDED. MAY, 2021

There are 2 parts to the belly pan. The first place to see where to drill the 7 holes that go through the boot cowl, forward part of the belly pan and into the fuse is first described in figure FN6 on Page 29 of the FINISH MANUAL. The 2nd part of the installation is on PAGE 287 of the FINISH MANUAL.

There are a couple of ERRORS though with this figure FN6. First, it shows the 7 screws used in the 3/32" holes to be drilled are HDW-S4R.375TA but if you go to the section on Page 287 about installing the belly pan, it calls for HDW-S6R0.5TA, which of course are larger and the correct ones.

The 2nd mistake is either where the FN6 shows to drill these 7 hole .5" from the front of that lip on the fuse OR...the mistake is the callout of the tinnerman nuts HDW-A1784-6Z-1 because these tinnerman nuts will not span 1/2" (.5") as called for because the distance from the edge of the tinnerman to the center of the hole is only 1/4"..... so, you either have to drill the holes at .25" from the edge or get different tinnerman nuts. It works OK with a 1/4" edge space, just be careful to give yourself enough room.

Use 12 of the AN5261032R8 screws with NAS1515H3L plastic washers to install the belly pan to the fuse. I almost always have to widen or move a few holes to make it line up correctly.

Drill the 2 holes that go on either side of the boot cowl that takes the HDW-S4R.25TA screws with a 3/32" bit.

Also, I would put some plastic washers on under the heads of these screws to protect the paint like we do everywhere else where we place screws onto painted surfaced.


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UPDATE: I'VE ATTACHED ABOVE A NEW DIAGRAM I GOT THAT SHOWS THE CORRECT INSTALLATION OF THE BELLY PAN WHICH SHOWS THE CHANGES I WAS TALKING ABOUT.