<Archive Thread> Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

[Daveembry]

Chuck, I just sprayed it on a qtip first and used that to apply it to the small area where it came through the fabric and then used some “blending solvent” mixed in about 25% to first area and then went 50% and blended out further.....to blend it in after filling the fixed area with several full strength coats of paint. Then a little mild compounding outside the last blend coat area.

3F6D8EC7-065D-4E32-BF6E-228B1FA7D1F1.jpg

Well, Dave, you just made my day.

I had the exact same issue with a leak from the fuel selector causing a bit of discoloration in the paint, and it would not hold the touch up paint. Never occurred to me to use the Bull Dog on it. I will do so, and fix that small but annoying issue. Good tip.

I believe I posted on that leaky valve issue, long ago. Turned out the O rings were fractionally too small, compared to the replacements. I always suspected there would be a rash of builders with leaky valves.

Chuck

[Dan L]

I didn’t know about Bulldog when I sprayed my D windows in 2011. I scuffed them and sprayed but they peeled after a few years. The only solution was new windows. I replaced them in 2015 and used the Bulldog. No hint of peeling so far.

I like Ike the look of the D windows and round wing tips.

[Daveembry]

Painting Vortex Generators

How do you paint vortex generators? Take some masking tape and double it over and stick one side to the top of your saw horse and stick the generators on the tape.

9C31B955-DCBB-4B3A-848A-76698D43A547.jpg


AC0F06F0-D634-4DBA-97C7-EA9FC40D4E68.jpg

To paint other small parts I take some hog wire panels and lay them between 2 sawhorses in the paint booth and put the parts flat on it. The paint will spray through the panels and not blow them around, unlike hanging them from wires does.

MAGNETOMETER MOUNTING

Note that you should not install the magnetometer in the wing until you have the wing installed or right before. I installed mine at the hangar just before hanging the wing.

Refer to the Executive Glass Manual Page 46.

First, after setting the ring in place (SP71323-002) on the mounting bracket and aligning it with the bracket as described below; (use the side of the bracket with the 4 small holes in it and align arrow on ring to the ring to the side of the bracket that will attach to the spar) match drill with a #40 bit through the bracket for the 3 screws we will attach the magnetometer to the bracket with. (See paragraph below these 2 photos). Use clecos for now. The holes you are using to match drill through are the holes in the ring...that have threaded inserts. Later the magnetometer will go on top of this ring and screws will go down into the ring and into/through the bracket so we just need to make some holes for the ends of the screws to go through.

Next we will drill holes for the rivets in the ring SP71323-002 to the mounting bracket we assembled earlier in the wing build. Set the ring so the notch beside the arrow, is aligned with the small hole drilled in the mounting bracket where it will be facing the spar. Drill 3 holes as shown with a #21 bit but don’t install the 3 of MS20426A5-6 rivets until you remove the ring and widen the #40 holes for the screws. There are actually 6 predrilled and countersunk holes for rivets and not the 3 shown on the figure. If you put the 3 rivets as shown, you can reach those 3 with your hand squeezer.


E92048A1-CE3A-44D6-9EC9-D0E4041BC0BD.jpg


D8AF5B92-B9FF-4C27-96B9-AE5E5139BBF9.jpg


Next we we need to widen those 3 #40 screw holes in the bracket to about .159 or a #21 bit so when we screw the MS35214-23 screws through the ring and into the bracket through the magnetometer, the screws can go on through the ring enough to tighten up. Do this after marking the location of the ring where it will mount and before riveting the ring to the bracket. Then you can install the ring to the bracket with the 5-6 rivets.


75591130-32B1-4C36-964E-727D620736E2.jpg

Also drill 2 holes as shown in detail B-B for the tie wraps to go through to secure the connectors. (Note: The new brackets have 2 holes already drilled you can use.)

Mount magnetometer to the ring using the screws MS35214-23. Remember NOT TO USE A MAGNETIC SCREWDRIVER ANYWHERE AROUND THE MAGNETOMETER.



361472D1-F5D5-4A7A-A4A3-BEE6DEF0738B.jpg


751B06DD-4649-4929-AD2C-DCA225B26B23.jpg

Lastly, mount the bracket to the spar using the MS35649-265B nuts on MS35214-27 screws. Note that you will use 2 nuts on each screw to lock it in place.

Connect the connector in the magnetometer to the one you ran down the wing and then fasten each side to the bracket with tie wraps through the 2 holes you drilled in the front.

[Daveembry]

BRAKES & WHEELS

Previously on post #95, I attached the files for the wheels and calipers. You first install the torque plates (be sure you have the ones for the 6 hole for the EX3) to the landing gear using 6x AN4-5A bolts with AN960-416L under the heads and AN365-428A lock nuts.

The plates go FORWARD of the gear and you will notice they have a raised or sunken area around the hole. That sunken part goes to the OUTSIDE of the wheel. Its hard to see and explain but in these photos you can see that area......but if you can image laying that torque plate down and it were a swimming pool where the sunken area is.....the part that would hold the water would be on the INBOARD side and the raised side or bottom of the pool would be facing OUTBOARD.


IMG_0593.jpg
(The front of the airplane is to the right in this photo)

You notice here that I have simply swapped the fitting out to make the line coming in now be on the top instead of the bottom. This will protect it more in case of hitting big rocks, etc.


IMG_0594.jpg
(Again, the front of the airplane is to the right....we are looking at the side of the pool that would hold water if level)

Next you can put the tire on the axle and use the axle nut to tighten it so it will spin around a turn and 1/2 or so when still jacked up. Then tighten to the next place where you can put the big cotter pin in.

Take the calipers apart and mount the big side over the 2 big pins it slides on. Next take the other side of the brake disc that mounts to this and I make a sharpie mark on the top of the pieces where each hole is and slide it in place from the top and hold it there until you can get one of the 4 bolts started. It helps to hold the caliper as far to the inside as you can to give you more room. Torque to 90 in lbs only and safety wire. (see the figure attached to post #95).



AEF7F747-6ECD-4670-893C-F427A29B39D6.jpg

Route the lines along the tabs in the gear and connect using the 567 Thread sealer.


IMG_0596.jpg

Use a rubber mallet to bend the tabs over as shown in the manual. A block of wood and metal hammer works too. The tabs are pretty soft and bend easily.


IMG_0597.jpg

Finally, follow the FINISH MANUAL at the end of the section on the LANDING GEAR for filling the lines with the brake fluid. The manual’s way of doing it works great and I’ve never had air in the lines using this method and by reversing the fitting like I do with the lines at the top, there is no way for air to get it and if it does, it will go up to the master cylinders and come out as you fill.


IMG_0598.jpg

WING PREP

FINISH MANUAL, SECTION 3-7, PAGE 7.1. Before the wings are installed there are several things we need to do. The manual is pretty good on this so I will only touch on a few things that maybe need clarifying.

NOTE THAT THE CURRENT KIT WAS MISSING SOME OF THE PARTS NEEDED. MISSING FOR THE FUEL LINES WERE THE 8 SMALL CLAMPS HDW100-200; 4 ELBOW FITTINGS AN915-2D ; 4 NIPPLE FITTING FOR THE SIGHT GAUGES AN840-4D.
Note that as I’ve stated before several times, substitute the Loctite 567 Thread Sealer for the Fuel Lube as stated in the manual. Mitch says they had problems with fuel lube and are using this now exclusively.

The elbow fittings will face the fuel lines and the manual is referring to only 1 side in the direction of them so think about where the fuel lines are coming in to the wings from. ....... the rear one from the rear so they should face towards the rear and down and the front ones face towards the front and downward. After we install the wings, we will connect the lines so don’t get them too far down so that the fuel line and nut on the fitting will be below the level of the bottom of the wing.


P1060568.jpg


P1060567.jpg


P1060566.jpg


P1060565.jpg

We will put the black material pieces in the nose and tail sections per the manual using the Weatherstrip Adhesive. Here it is on Amazon. We will need this later also installing the front wing pieces. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


STALL WARNING

FINISH MANUAL, SECTION 3-11, PAGE 11.1. Just note where the wires hook up as its a little unclear because of the locations of the terminals on the stall warning switch. The WIRING CHART of mine explains how to connect it. MB05B20O will plug into the TOP male spade on the stall warning switch and the MB05C20OO plugs into the MIDDLE male spade connector on the switch.

The switch will slide upward and downward a bit due to the slot the screws go through. Moving the switch upward on the wing will increase the airspeed that it will sound and lowering it will lower the airspeed so when you fly it if it’s going off way too soon, just move it downwards. With the AOA Pitot on the Executive Glass and G3X, I rely on the audio of that and not the stall warning horn. Seems the circuit breaker on it is always OUT.

VORTEX GENERATORS

FINISH MANUAL, SECTION 3-9, PAGE 9.1. I showed on the last post how to paint them. After painting I take a razor blade and scrape the bottom and outside edges of each one to clear away the paint as well as the greenish substance they are coated with from the factory. Then clean with denatured alcohol.

The manual is good on the layout using the vinyl pattern they ship with them. When you install each one, put a small dab of the glue on the back and I use a Popsicle stick to spread it out evenly and thinly and then give it a little spray with the activator and press into place. Use a Qtip to clean the excess that squishes out. Be sure to get the generator exactly INSIDE the space allocated in the vinyl and clean all that excess off because when you peel the vinyl back away from the wing, any excess left on the edges will stick to the vinyl and the vinyl will tear off and stick to the wing and it’s a real pain to remove. I put 4 on and then go back and double check all the rest of them on the wing that I already set to be sure they haven’t moved. Its takes several minutes for the glue to set so they can slide downward a little until they set......so check them and keep them in the open areas.

The activator is a brownish color so go back and use a rag with the denatured alcohol to clean the glue and activator from around them after you finish.

LANDING LIGHTS

Just a quick note that the LIGHTING MANUAL says to go back to the WING MANUAL section 25 or 26 to see how to install the lens into the lens holder....but.....that isn't true and there is no figure that shows it. So, use the 2 little brackets in your LIGHT TOTE SC72001-001 and screws AN526C632R6 to install through the brackets to hole the lens in place.

RIVNUTS IN TURTLE DECK AREA

FINISH MANUAL, SECTION 3-12, PAGE 12.5. The manual is good on this. Note you will need that LETTER G drill bit. When you drill out using this bit, be careful and don’t oversize the hole or the rivnut will come out. Also, I get some Superglue Gel or meth and just before installing the rivnut, I put a drop or 2 of the gel under the head of it or using a toothpick, put a little meth just under the head. After you install it, it will give it a bit more hold and prevent it from spinning out when you put the screw in. I first started doing this when installing the windshield and had a couple of the spin out when installing the screws. Just clean the excess glue off when it squishes out.

i have the Marson No.39200. It comes with 3 mandrel sizes but you will need to order a separate one in the 6-32 size.


710928C5-971D-4B6D-9C74-F1D7604A9E7D.jpg

D1A4F59A-9855-44D9-95B3-A82B12D135D5.jpg


I think the cheapest place I found was Zoro at $53. Amazon cheapest is about $89 https://www.zoro.com/marson-rivet-nu...00/i/G1742212/ and then get the 6-32 mandrel https://www.zoro.com/marson-mandrel-...54/i/G2214073/ which is $6.

[Daveembry]

ELEVATOR & RUDDER TRIM TABS

You can put them on the elevators. First put a layer of RM1072-001tape between the trim tab and the fabric on the elevator at the trailer edge elevator tube. They go on with the CR3213-4-2 rivets (which I only had 1 left in the kit so had to call Mitch to get 7 more). After installing them put a bead of silicone along the leading edge of the trim tab where it meets the fabric.


P1060570.jpg


The rudder trim tab goes on with 3 of the AN530-4R4 screws. Top left of figure: Use a #42 bit. I had to tap out the holes to get the screws to go in.P1060569.jpg. When I used a #41 bit, it worked better and I didn’t have to tap holes.


WING & RUDDER LIGHTS

I like to install the landing and navigation lights first per the LIGHTING MANUAL. The latest wing tip bow I got already had a nut plate installed for the 10-32 screw that goes into it BUT IT WAS THE WRONG SIZE. It is suppose to be an L3 plate that takes a 10-32 screw that came with the light and/or is an AN507C1032R28 called for so it won’t fit. Check yours and if it’s the same you’ll have to remove their riveted nutplate and replace it with one Mitch will send one. It was a nice thought though!!!!


P1060562.jpg
(Rudder Light)

On the rudder I install the light now but not the 4 pin housing connector onto the wires coming up of the rudder that connects to the harness inside the harness in the back of the fuse, until after installing the rudder and burning the fuse hole and pushing this wire group though the hole and into the fuse.

The kit was MISSING the connector VP6009-005 (it had a photo of it on the Lighting Tote but wasn’t there or on the Packing List). ALSO MISSING is a female spade connector you will need for the ground wire in that rudder connection. There is a 4 pin connector needed for the 4 wires in the bundle and there is a separate blue ground wire in the fuse with that harness that has a spade connectors on it. Check yours and CALL MITCH.

There is an orange ground wire with a spade connector that connects to the rudder light harness. The other end of that small wire with the ring connector is installed onto one of the small bolts used to attach the data plate onto the frame under the right stabilizer.


P1060564.jpg


P1060563.jpg
(These are the 5 wires coming out of the rudder. 4 with the pins go to the plastic connector housing and the other gets a female spade connector)

The main landing lights have the white/blue wire going to the ground connector on the lights. It’s hard to find but the GND and POSITIVE terminals are written on the label above the terminals.

FLYING WIRES

Here is a video of installing the flying wires. https://youtu.be/V7_LiK0whJc

I think the manual is good on this EXCEPT that the figure calls for an AN4-14A bolt through the top wires on the in but that bolt is too short. The correct bolt is AN4-15A with no washers or you can use an 16A with a 416 washer to make it work. The kit had a 16A and it was not used so that worked fine.

I use a vice grip to hold the wire and then a 9/32 wrench will fit the turnbuckle so you can turn it to make adjustments.

A black sharpie mark on the wire by the vice grip on it can help to let you know the wire isn't spinning when you adjust the connectors on the ends.


P1060572.jpg


Essentially, level the plane left to right (I just put a jack under 1 side of the landing gear and jack it up until level side to side) and then put the plumb bob on the top hinge of the rudder attach and let it hang down so it's close to the bottom hinge. A small ladder is usually about right height for the tail wheel.

Adjust the bottom wires only on each side until each stabilizer is level then adjust the top wires only to get the plumb bob to hit dead center on the bottom rudder hinge. Then adjust the tension to 10 lbs at .44" deflection of the wire per the manual.

It can get a little confusing so here is how to shorten or lengthen the wires. IF YOU ARE HOLDING THE WIRE STATIONARY WITH THE VICE GRIPS (and watching you black sharpie mark on the wire to be sure it isn’t turning) and standing in the center of the wire lookin at it, then if you turn a turnbuckle CLOCKWISE it will LOOSEN or LENGTHEN the wire. This is if you are standing in the center of the wire and looking down towards the wire end. So clockwise will be turning the turnbuckle RIGHT as you look either at the right or left end of the wire. This works for both ends of the wire.

Turning the turnbuckle COUNTER-CLOCKWISE then will TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the wire.

I try and adjust each turnbuckle on each end of the wire about equal amounts so the same amount of the wire is sticking out of the turnbuckle on the inside.

OK, so 1 last summary.

1. Level the airplane left to right using a level on the flap rod across the front of the fuselage.
2. Put a plumb bob connected to the top rudder hinge and hanging down pointing at the bottom rudder hinge on the fin.
3. Raise the tail enough so that the plumb bob is close, but not touching, that rudder fin and the plumb bob point is just above the bottom hinge.
4. Put a long level across one of the stabilizers on the aft tube (just in front of the wires where they connect to the stabilizers).
5. Put a vice grip on the wire and hold the wire in place while you make adjustments to the turnbuckles to make that stabilizer level.
6. Adjust the turnbuckles to make the stabilizer level remembering that you should adjust each end of the wire equal amounts. To LOWER the outboard end of the stabilizer to make it level, you will hold the vice grips, take your 9/32” open end wrench.....and then turn the turnbuckle on the outside end of the wire to the LEFT or counter-clockwise. This will tighten the wire and lower the outboard end of the stabilizer. So standing in the center of the wire and looking at either end of the wire, turn the turnbuckle LEFT.
7. After adjusting each one individually, go to the upper wires and adjust them to make the plumb bob center on the bottom hinge.
8. Now attach a straight edge (see next post for these photos and details) and perpendicular ruler to one of the top wires and pull the wire at the center and work towards 10 lb. when pulled .44”.
9. To increase the pull (say it’s only 8 lbs and you need to go to 10), then adjust each TOP WIRE ONLY, a small amount on EACH END of EACH WIRE and remeasure. You will need to turn each turnbuckle counterclockwise (all 4 of the upper ones) a small amount and remeasure and adjust until you get 10 lbs pull.
10. Tighten the locknuts on the wires. NOTE: When you do this, be sure and put your wrench on turnbuckle to keep it from turning while you tighten the nut or it will spin and change the length of the wire (and you get to start all over)

NOTE: LOOK IN THE NEXT POST FOR MORE PHOTOS AND INFO ON THIS. THE FORUM ONLY LETS 12 PHOTOS PER POST SO I RAN OUT OF SPACE ON THIS ONE.

RUDDER CABLE HOLES IN FUSELAGE

Oh....how this makes you shudder! This is the 7th time I've done it and it works great so just pay attention to the figure in the manual and here are some hints.

First cut out the rectangular inspection panel in the bottom of the fuse and cut the tie wraps used to hold them in place during construction and bring them all out that bottom hole (both elevator and rudder cables).


P1060574.jpg

Measure from the far, back side of the fuse just under the bottom rudder hinge and place a mark 26" forward. I use a sharpie (it removes easily as you know with denatured alcohol). Measure UP from the bottom of the fuse tube 3.80" and put a mark across your 26" mark. You will noticed this should be within the oval shaped patch you put on the fabric.


P1060575.jpg


P1060576.jpg

This cross mark (26" forward and 3.8" up) is the top, forward point of the area we are going to open.....BUT.....we aren't going to do it all right off the bat!

The figure calls for the total front to aft cut/burn area to be opened as 1.75" but we will only open 1" to start with. The connector on the aft end of the rudder cables are just under 1" in width, so we need to cut an initial hole about 1" wide.

So, from that front cross mark, measure aft 1.75" and place another mark and then again, measure 3.8" up from the bottom of the fuse tube there and this gives you a 2nd X mark. Draw a line from the front cross to the rear mark. This represents the top of the 1.75" opening.

Now, mark the center of this line which will be about 0.875" (or just "eyeball" the mid-point). Then mark a 1/2" either side of this center mark. This will now give us a 1" cut/burn line in the center of the 1.75" area we will eventually open up if needed.


P1060578.jpg

Now take your hot soldering iron and using only the small TIP, burn a small width hole BELOW and along this 1" line. The line is the top.


P1060579.jpg

Go inside your inspection opening at the bottom and take a flashlight and be sure your rudder cables are not tangled and are straight out of that back fairlead and then push the metal connector ends through this 1" hole.


P1060580.jpg

We will later attach this to the rudder and only then will we see which side of the hole we burned the cable hits and then we will just gradually open that slit up in whichever direction we need to until the cable is straight through and not hitting.

[Pete D]

Well, this is probably my least favorite thing to do. I’ve got it worked out I think about the best I can but still a bit difficult due to the tight working conditions. If anyone else’s finds or knows of a better way......I’m all ears.

A couple of extra tips you might try next time.

I like to put a piece of safety wire or rib stitch cord through the loop in the spring then loosely back and around the tail post. That way if you drop it while working on it you don't have to go fishing, just lift it back out. Same thing works for the cables, you can tie something around the narrow part of the fork between the threaded portion and the bottom of the fork. One for each cable and the spring, cut it loose as each one is secured.

Once things are hooked up, instead of trying to grab onto the turnbuckle barrels I use a couple of Allen wrenches, sized to fit in the hole in the middle of the turn buckle barrel. Clamp one into a pair of vice grips, making it longer and giving more leaverage. One can be used to hook into the loop of the cable on the forward end, the other can be used in the hole in the turnbuckle barrel to turn the barrel.

Then, when it comes time to insert the turnbuckle safeties, I use the Allen wrench in the center hole again to very slightly turn the barrel back and forth while sliding the wire into the notches in the threads. It is pretty easy to feel right where it needs to be if you are rocking the barrel back and forth while gently pressing the safety clip in with a pair of needle nose pliers or hemostats.

[Daveembry]

Hey Pete.....thanks for jumping in!!

Great idea with the string on the ends of the parts. Several times the spring fell this time while trying to get the right angle on it with the pliers.

I used your idea today of the allen wrench but didn't have any the right size at the hangar today so I used my dental pick thing with a hook on the end and it made it SUPER EASY! Thanks!


P1060599.jpg


P1060600.jpg


Here is a photo of using the hemostats to grab the back cable end to hold it still so it can't turn. The allen wrench or "pick" works good too but with the hemostats, you don't have to use any hands.....just clamp it and leave it.

P1060604.jpg

A couple of extra tips you might try next time.

I like to put a piece of safety wire or rib stitch cord through the loop in the spring then loosely back and around the tail post. That way if you drop it while working on it you don't have to go fishing, just lift it back out. Same thing works for the cables, you can tie something around the narrow part of the fork between the threaded portion and the bottom of the fork. One for each cable and the spring, cut it loose as each one is secured.

Once things are hooked up, instead of trying to grab onto the turnbuckle barrels I use a couple of Allen wrenches, sized to fit in the hole in the middle of the turn buckle barrel. Clamp one into a pair of vice grips, making it longer and giving more leaverage. One can be used to hook into the loop of the cable on the forward end, the other can be used in the hole in the turnbuckle barrel to turn the barrel.

Then, when it comes time to insert the turnbuckle safeties, I use the Allen wrench in the center hole again to very slightly turn the barrel back and forth while sliding the wire into the notches in the threads. It is pretty easy to feel right where it needs to be if you are rocking the barrel back and forth while gently pressing the safety clip in with a pair of needle nose pliers or hemostats.

[Daveembry]

ELEVATORS (Cont.)

AFTER YOU HAVE ADJUSTED THE ELEVATOR MAXIMUM TRAVEL ANGLES........check the forward and rear sticks for clearances in the cockpit. The rear shouldn't touch the seat front..... See below for adjusting these max angles.


P1060595.jpg


The front should not touch the instrument panel....


P1060596.jpg


....and should not have any of the cable connectors on the front cable touch the torque tube or the front cable housing.


P1060598.jpg


P1060597.jpg


Here is the gauge I use to test the cable tension.


P1060603.jpg

To adjust the max travel on the elevators using the stop bolts we installed on the fuse back during the fuse build, we must first establish the airplanes "level" position and we and we can do that without actually raising the tail of the airplane.

ALSO, the manuals saying to adjust the trim so that the front tube is that 3-5/16" below the opening is not correct. Maybe that worked for the small tires but really isn't correct. We need to find the "real".....level position for our aircraft and to do that, you put a smart level on the door jamb. Read what is says and that is how far off we are from level as it sits with the tail on the ground.

In my recent case with 31" tires and baby bushwheel/Acme Stinger tailwheel...... my level read -12.5 degrees on the door. So........if I were to move the electric trim to make the stabilizer that same -12.5 degrees......it would be level with the airplane level condition right? So why raise it and level? No need. You could also "zero" the level at this angle but mine doesn't do that so I just calculate it.

In fact, we don't even need to move the stabilizer at all. We just care about the elevators so put the smart level on top of a straight edge (longer level for me) going across the front and read or the elevator an adjust the stops on the elevator so it's 25.0 degrees when in full UP from the level position and -15.0 degrees below level condition in the full DOWN position. So if my level reads -12.5 degrees for level and I raise it from this level position 25 degrees total, then I want it to read +12.5 degrees when it hits the stop (-12.5 plus 25.0 degrees = +12.5 degrees). In the full DOWN position I want to make it hit the stop at -27.5 degrees (-12.5 degrees minus 15.0 more degrees =- 27.5).

Be sure the elevator is actually hitting the stop bolts. You may have to readjust the barrel connectors some to make them touch completely.

Once you have the max travel adjusted correctly, then tighten both barrel connectors and equal amount until you reach the 60 lbs tension.


P1060605.jpg



RUDDER AND RUDDER CABLES

The rudder can be installed after the elevator cable adjustments are all made.

[Daveembry]

WINGS.

2 friends made the mistake of showing up at my hangar today so I put them to work helping me install the wings.Following the manual with the "bullets" you made up......you will need 8 total of the 5/16" ones for the wings and struts; 4 for the 2 wing spar attachments on each side and 2 wing strut attachments on each side. Check them to see if they slide good through fittings. May need to ream for paint.

Grease bullets. You should have already reamed all the wing spar and strut attach fittings during the wing build and you sure BETTER HAVE REAMED THE STRUT ATTACH FITTING AT THE FUSE. If you didn't, good luck! There is no room to ream it now with the gear on below and the fabric above. Where the fork end of the struts will go onto the attach fitting at the fuse, you should not have had fabric over that but if you did, it will have to come off now as well as any paint. The fork end will be a very tight fit even then. I take a big punch and run it through the fork end (not the hole but the space itself) to pry the fork ends apart a little as they won't go on if you don't do that or sand/grind the metal at the attach fitting. It's just too thick. On my next build, I'm going to grind that down a bit before cover and paint to make it easier.

A note here while we are talking about it, the manual calls for the hardware for this fitting but disregard the call for the washers because the nut will not tighten up enough to get the cotter pin in if you use ANY washers........If you put a washer under the head of the bolt as called for, you will be taking it back out. Washers are not needed on this fitting on top or bottom.

The manual also doesn't have a callout for the cotter pin and they should be the AN380-3-3 ones which are installed after torquing the nut to 95 in lbs and then tightened to the next opening in the castle nut to get the cotter key in.

On the EX3 struts, the strut to fuse attach fork ends are already installed as is the nut. If not it’s AN316-C7R nuts. Take a long screwdriver that will fit into the hole of fork and turn it out a good ways and screw the nut all the way down to where it touches the fork end then place a sharpie mark on one of the flats (side) of the nut so you can count the turns easily. Turn the nut 6 full turns inwards towards the strut for the forward struts and 12 turns for the rear ones, then use your long screwdriver and turn the fork end back in until the nut just touches the strut. This gives you 6 full turns front and 12 rear, which is what should get you to a good starting point to set the dihedral correct.

NOTE: The manual first says to use your tool you made with the 3/8" bullet at 30" on the wing to get the dihedral. Next it says to use the string wingtip to wingtip to get 3" at the spar over the cockpit. You can do one but NOT BOTH! If you do like the manual says and get it set using the level with the 3/8" tool...... it won't be 3". I ask Mitch and he said to use the string method and NOT the level method for the dihedral. You still use it for the washout.

When you stretch the string line along the spar on the wing you should have 3” from the spar top to the string at the inboard end of each wing spar. Be sure and use a lightweight string and pull it tight so it won't sag.

P1060609.jpg
(This is the right wing where it attaches to the fuse. The ruler is resting on the top of the spar and the stringline is stretching from wingtip to wingtop, right over the spar (just a 1/2" or so aft of the line of rivets).

I think each plane is different so you may have to adjust each spar until you have the 3” at that point and you get the 3/8” drop for the washout on each wingtip. You can have a maximum of 15 threads exposed on each strut (not counting the nut).

.P1060607.jpg
(This is the right wing so there are 6 threads exposed on the front and 11 on the rear. Note the paint I had to scrape off and also note there is no washer under the bolt head or on the bottom.)

On this plane I ended up with 6 turns on both front struts and 11 on the right and 13 on the left rear struts. This is different from my last one and different from the ones Mitch just checked on the factory floor......so apparently for whatever reason.....it varies from plane to plane.I just used a long level and marked 30” on it and then taped on one of the 3/8” “bullets” I had and that works fine for measuring. No need to make a special attachment that I can see.


P1060606.jpg
NOTE: When installing the pulley cage on the front strut, here is the orientation. Note the direction the pulley attachment faces so that it will align correctly.


40A38C03-E11D-47BE-ADCD-5522138DC670.jpg

JURY STRUT I-BOLTS-

See Page 18.1; FN3-17.

SC37303-001 are the REAR strut bushings for the I-bolts-
SK37303-001 are the FRONT ones-
SK37104-001 Are the "wedge" washers. There are installed on the TOP and BOTTOM of the front strut I-bolts with the thick side of the washer facing AFT. These are used because you will notice there is no flat spot on the spar (it's rounded) so this levels the surface contact area.

SEE POST #114 FOR MORE INFO ON JURY STRUTS. https://forum.cubcrafters.com/showth...ll=1#post22797

BOLTS & NUTS FOR WINGS & STRUTS

The manual is a little jumbled here in regards to the right bolts and nuts, etc as there are no Figures so I like to get it all together at 1 time.

Here it is:

Strut Attach at Fuse:- TC1909-001 - AN320-6 Castle Nut- AN380-3-3 Cotter Pin- NO WASHERS USED AS THE MANUAL SAYS!
TORQUE TO 95 IN LBS AND THEN TURN TO NEXT OPENING FOR THE COTTER PIN

FORWARD Strut at Wing- Slide AN960-516L between strut and wing attach- Use SK30300-001 Tie Down Fitting- AN5-36A Bolt with AN960-516L washer under the head- AN365-524A with washer as required under nut. TORQUE TO 160 In lbs

REAR Strut at Wing- AN960-516 or 516L between strut and wing attach if needed.- AN5-20A Bolt with AN960-516 washer under the head.- AN365-524A with AN960-516 washer under the nut. TORQUE TO 160 In lbs

FRONT Spar Attach at Fuse. You will first have to remove the flap lever bolt so you can move the lever up and out of the way so the head of the bolt can be inserted from the aft side of the attach fitting.
- SC10210-001 Lift Ring (Note to out the flat side of this towards the rear of the attach fitting)
- Use AN960-516 or 516L between
- AN5-15A bolt with no washer under head

(NOTE: The head of this bolt is on the AFT side of the fuse attach and the nut is on the forward side per the figure. This is so the flap lever that is right behind it will not hit the end of the screw if you had it front to back. Also note that the lift ring has a front and rear. Per the figure, the side where the ring protrudes out goes towards the front of the attach fitting. Same reason, clearance of the flap lever.)-

-AN364-524A (no washer used if using the lifting loop). NOTE! THIS IS A “AN364”. AND NOT THE “AN365” NUT. IT’S THINNER. THE 365 WON’T WORK. TORQUE TO 145 In Lbs

REAR Spar Attach at Fuse
- AN5-15A Bolt with AN960-516 Washer under head
- AN960-516 between spar hinge block (this is between the actual spar attach fitting coming out of the wing)
- Use 1 each of AN960-516 and a 516L between the back hinge block on the spar and the aft wing mount.
- AN365-524A with AN960-516 washer under the nut. TORQUE TO 160 In Lbs

[Daveembry]

REGISTERING THE AIRCRAFT

UPDATE: Dec. 2022. There is a new online system they are just implementing for getting your Registration (as well as the Airworthiness later). Got to http://cares.faa.gov/home and you can sign up for this and then make your application through this portal which includes uploading the forms listed below that you need. You do this instead of mailing the documents in. Note that once you upload the 3 documents, it will ask you to pay $5 (if you already have a reserved N number) and then give you an expected date of review. But in reality, FAA will put requests for NEW registrations for EAB, kit built aircraft to the top of the pile and process it usually in just a few days! This will not be reflected in the "dashboard" showing your application. For example, 2 days ago I put in the application using this online portal. It said to expect review in 7 months!! July 7, 2023 (I applied on Dec 14, 2022). I called and they actually confirmed it was automatically put at the top of the list and was already being reviewed and should be done in 24-48 hours. So good news there. Just ignore that date on the dashboard and expect it to happen quickly.

NOTE: See post #125 later for more info on the paperwork needed for your final inspection and Special Airworthiness Certificate.

Today I sent in my paperwork to get the registration started with FAA. I had previously reserved an N number. This gets the registration done which you will need when you set up the final inspection and get your Airworthiness Inspection.

There are 4 things you need to send to FAA to get that started.

1. A Bill of Sale from Cubcrafters. Submit 2 copies.
2. Complete FAA Form 8050-1. Aircraft Registration Application. You can download it from here and fill it out and sign it. Only 1 copy needed to be filed. https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/...m/AC8050-1.pdf
3. Complete FAA Form 8050-88 Affidavit of Ownership for experimental Aircraft. THIS HAS TO BE NOTARIZED FIRST. https://www.faa.gov/licenses_certifi...ia/8050-88.pdf
4. A check to FAA for $5.00 if you already have a reserved N number and $10 if you don't.

I have actually attached a file that has these 4 things as I completed them. I put them in a corporation name so you can see that that name is used everywhere as the Manufacturer or Builder and you can see how the other areas of the forms are filled in. If you are registering the aircraft in your name then use it everywhere for these items.

These 4 items should be mailed by USPS to:

FAA Aircraft Registration Branch, AFS-750
PO Box 25504
Oklahoma City, OK 73125-0504

By Commercial Service to:

FAA Aircraft Registration Branch, AFS-750
Registry Building Room 118
6425 South Denning
Oklahoma City, OK 73169-6937

That's all there is to it now. There is alot more paperwork to be done for the final Airworthiness Certificate which I'll share when I do it right before my inspection. Send this in early as it takes a bit for them to complete it and mail you your registration. If you make a mistake and have to correct it, your application goes to the back of the stack in some far, distant in-basket and then takes forever (unless you beg like I did on the last one).