<Archive Thread> Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

[Daveembry]

ENGINE COWL

FINISH MANUAL, Page 4-21, Section 4-24. They have updated the manual and actually included several of my photos from here. They suggested a different way from marking the cut line in the manual here and it's actually simpler than my way but gets to the same results. So the manual method is fine but I do go ahead and add a layer of tape on the outboard........ forward side of the cowl before cutting. I use a dremel with cutting wheel, so this tape edge gives the dremel blade a good, straight guide to follow. I just put the thicker, green tape down with the edge over the line I marked with the compass.

Here is a video of it. Note that it's my original way of marking the cut line. https://youtu.be/4BC6sgIavbQ

The old manual and the video is for an EX2 so won't work either. On the EX3, you have to install the prop spinner bulkhead which mounts behind the prop before you can properly measure the cowl distance from it to the back of the spinner. That means the prop/spinner bulkhead has to be installed first. In the EX2, you don't have to install the prop since the spinner bulkhead can be simply placed in place to measure and then easily removed because it doesn't have to mount to the prop.

HERE IS MY ORIGINAL METHOD OF MARKING THE CUT LINE

So the problem or difference is that we don't have room to slide the cowl up forward enough to get the aft edge in forward of the boot cowl forward edge. Normally on the EX2, you can slide the cowl up over the front of the engine flywheel all you want which makes it easy to slide forward enough to simply mark the edge of the cowl to cut from the front edge of the boot cowl but with the EX3, the distance between the front of the cowl and the back of the spinner mount is only about .025 (not far enough to get in front of the boot cowl so you can mark the cowl cut line) .....which is right where it should be AFTER being cut to fit the boot cowl. So here is what I figured out to do to get it right.

I have attached 3 pdf pages on the cowl where you can see hardware, etc. These aren’t in the manual anywhere at this time, so be sure to download and print.

These EX3 cowls come with all the nutplates already installed and ready to go. The cowl is almost ready to fit and only requires a very small amount of trimming, so be careful not to cut too much.

You will probably need some help to install it. First place several wraps of tape around the edge of the boot cowl (just aft of the "lip" that the cowl will go over) to protect the paint and a layer on the inside lip of the boot cowl as well where the cowl will fit over. Be sure and get that first tape over the boot cowl painted are (not the lip area) nice and flush with the front at the lip.

NOTE: YOU WILL PROBABLY NEED TO ENLARGE THE COWL UP BY THE PROP BULKHEAD TO ALLOW THE SCREWS/NUTS OF THE BULKHEAD (where the prop mounts to the prop bulkhead) TO NOT HIT THE COWL. JUST SEE HOW FAR THE BIG OPENINGS ON THE TOP AND BOTTOM HALF NEED TO BE ENLARGED TO LET THOSE BOLT/NUTS TO NOT HIT IT. You'll need to check it and then remove and trim it before proceeding so you can slide the cowl completely forward up against the bulkhead when measuring for the cut as explained below. DO THIS BEFORE INSTALLING THE COWL AND MARKING THE CUT LINE BECAUSE IT WILL LET YOU SLIDE THE COWL UP CLOSER TO THE SPINNER BULKHEAD.

Put a mark on the tape on the boot cowl where the center of the boot cowl is (the overlap point) then find the center of the cowl my tape measure and place a mark there on the edge next to the boot cowl center mark. When installing, be sure and you match the 2 center marks together so the cowl is centered on the boot cowl.



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(Black line on masking tape is the center of boot cowl and the small, silver mark on the black bowl is the center of the cowl)


Start by laying the top cowl piece up on top of the engine and then work the bottom piece up into position. I used some 5 lb weights on top of the cowl piece right where it meets the back, center baffle/rubber seal area to keep it down. It will overlap the boot cowl just a small amount. You will notice it's a very tight fit at that point where the baffle just above the oil cooler is and weights help hold the rubber over until it kindof forms to cowl and you get the bottom half on. If you left the baffle seals off like recommended earlier, then you won't have to use the weights.



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(Weights on top of the cowl over the oil cooler area of the baffles. Not needed if seals left off for now)


The bottom half will have to go as far forward as possible behind the prop spinner bulkhead so you can work the front baffles under it and then slide it back. Keep working it, it will be stiff but it will fit.

With the top of the cowl centered on the boot cowl center mark, go to the front and be sure to get the cowl centered around the prop spinner bulkhead. You can look/measure the distance between the bulkhead and the edge of the cowl and also the screw that joins the 2 sections together and be sure they are about the same. Here is the left side, just make the right side the same amount of distance.


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(Left side of cowl looking from the front. Make the right side the same distances)


Then go to the side and look at the distance between the cowl and the spinner bulkhead and be sure it's equal distance on the top and the bottom. Be sure it's pushed as far up towards the boot cowl as possible.



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When it all looks good, I pull the cowl back away from the boot cowl pretty much as far as I can until it touches the back of the prop spinner bulkhead and check to be sure it's still centered on the bulkhead by looking at those screws on either side again and make them even.

The EX2 had alot of excess material and we made 2 cuts....the 1st to get it close and the 2nd to get it a perfect match. On the EX3's, the cowl is cut very close to being perfect so there is no room for error. We will only measure it and cut it once, so it has to be right this first time.

With the cowl touching the spinner bulkhead probably on both of the sides and being sure you still have the cowl centered on the top where it meets the boot cowl and at the front around the prop spinner bulkhead, then:

take another piece of 1" masking tape and align the aft side of the tape with the aft side of the 1" tape we wrapped around the boot cowl (the top part just before the lip). Remember, the forward edge of this tape is right on the edge of the boot cowl lip or right where we want the finished cowl to meet up with. BUT..........remember, our cowl is now pushed forward towards the prop by about 1/4". The aft side of this tape is touching the aft side of the boot cowl tape but the forward edge is overlapping onto the TOP of the cowl. So this forward edge is now the same line around the cowl as the boot cowl lip edge is.

So then we are going to take some 1/4" fine line tape and run it around the cowl keeping the aft edge of it perfectly aligned on the forward edge of the 1" tape we just put down. This will now give us where we will cut the cowl on the forward side of this 1/4" fine line tape and it should give us a perfect fit up to the boot cowl.

Before we do this, take some regular masking tape (like the thick, green tape) and run it up perfectly flush with the forward side of the1/4" tape where we will cut and then remove the 1/4" fine line tape and the 1" tape it was butted next too. The aft side of this tape is the area we will cut and remove. By cutting 1/4" off then when we slide the cowl back it should butt perfectly with the boot cowl lip.


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(Here you can see all the tapes installed. There is the 1" tape totally on the boot cowl that is aligned with the front edge of the lip; then a 1" tape on top of this tape that is aligned with the aft side of the bottom tape and going over onto the top of the cowl; then the 1/4" tape forward of the front edge of this 2nd 1" tape)


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(Here you can see the 3 layers of tapes and we will cut forward of the RED 1/4" tape here. NOTE that in this diagram and the way we do this is with the cowl pushed forward until it equally touches the back of the spinner bulkhead).

You could also just use the compass set to 1” and mark the cowl with the pencil with the sharp end following the aft side of the boot cowl tape but I was afraid of scratching the paint and I could not see the pencil line on the black carbon fiber of the cowl very well, so I just used the tape.

I like using the Dremel tool cutoff wheel and just pull the cowl further back away from boot cowl as far as possible and then I slide a piece of aluminum between the cowl and engine/boot cowl before cutting.....or you can remove it and cut it. I take a few Popsicle sticks and put under the cowl to hold it out away from the boot cowl as well. If you are uncomfortable using your Dremel tool like this, you may just remove the cowl and cut it on the bench.

Also will have to cut out the cowl at the bottom around the gasolator. Cut enough out so that you can get your fuel strainer cup up into the gasolator to pull fuel samples later.


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To get it to fit completely under the gasolator without bending it, you will have to cut it more, all the way down to get it to fit.

After making the cut on the cowl, slide it back up so that it fits in the top, center where your center marks are on the boot cowl and cowl and put masking tape to hold it in place. Go around both sides pushing/pulling the cowl until it is up flush against the boot cowl and putting enough masking tape to hold it as you go. Mark any place that may need additional sanding or filing if any places are "humped" towards the boot cowl. After removing the cowl for paint, I will take some a long file or sanding block and go around the cut edge to smooth it. If you mess up and cut into the cowl, just fill it with some of your body filler and sand it down.

After it's all tapes up, use cowl #2 figure attached here and make the measurements on the cowl. Start with making the hole on the side that connects the upper and lower half at the boot cowl. It should be .50" from the boot cowl side and .50" up from the cowl joint.


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From that mark, measure up 5.3" UP from that mark towards the center. You should get a perfectly equal 4 segments ending at the dead center at the top. If not, move the top one over enough to have it centered on both cowls (boot cowl and cowl). Do the same for both side. This will leave you will 9 places, including the 2 joint marks on either side. Then remove 1 cleco at a time and drill with a #30 through each hole and re-cleco.

After removing the cowl, I'll drill the cowl and center hole in the boot cowl lip with a #19 bit and then countersink it enough to make the dimpled washers NAS1169C6L fit flush and then install the nutplates MS21059L06 with MS20426A3-4 rivets into the boot cowl. DONE!

[Daveembry]

COWL

So we have the cowl all cut and fit to the boot cowl.

This is in the FINISH MANUAL, Page 24.3, Section 4-24.
Also, here is a link to a video I did on how to fit and cut the cowl. https://youtu.be/4BC6sgIavbQ


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Since the 2 halves put together are thicker, you can sand the 2 halves of the cowl, where the 2 halves meet the boot cowl ....thin...so it doesn't stick up higher than the other 2 halves of the cowl.


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(Man, doesn't that pearl, metallic blue look good when a little light hits it!!!)


After fitting and cutting the cowl, re-install it and drill the holes through the cowl and into the flange on the boot cowl where the screws and nutplates will go with a #40 bit and cleco using the measurements shown below (note the same photo of my build in the manual Photo 4-192).Then drill through the COWL ONLY to widen the #40 holes to a #28 bit (.144) hole.

7F7D3236-AFC9-478F-A736-FF8CF05964F6.jpg
Here is the correct drawing for the 363 engine

To install the nutplates, first drill out the center holes we drilled that are in the boot cowl flange and the 2 in the cowl (only the bottom half of the cowl where the nut plates are going)..... using a #10 bit. Then using the nutplate tool, drill #40 holes for the nutplates and dimple these rivet holes.

Use MS21059L06 nutplates and MS20426A3-4 rivets.



OIL DOOR

Note: Some of the cowls I have received already had the oil door installed and some don't.

We need to install the hinge for the oil door on the cowl side. First, cut off the excess rod that goes through the 2 hinge pieces and use some sidecutters to pinch down on the end of the hinge tube to keep the pin from sliding.

Fit the hinge into the opening with the side that does onto the cowl on the bottom of the cowl. You may have to trim a little of the sides of the cowl for the hinge or the hinge pins to fit good. Tape it in place where it operates good and then match drill and cleco holes from the bottom of the cowl. Countersink the holes on the top.


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Drill out the 2 holes in the corner of the oil door with a 5/8" bit and deburr. Tape it into place and see if it needs trimming anywhere to fit inside the opening. I make sure it fits nice and flat and flush on the bottom first and then see if the top or any corners need some sanding to make it sit nice and flat.


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Once it's good, tape it in place and match drill the 2 end holes from the hinge into the door. You can then remove the clecos and take the door off and finish drilling the holes. Countersink the top of the oil door perfectly. MS20426A3-4 rivets go into both sides of the hinge.

Cleco the hinge back onto the cowl and mark through the 5/8" holes you drilled. Then drill 3/8" holes on these marks in the cowl where the 1/4 turn studs will pass through from the oil door.


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Put the hinge only back in place on the cowl and cleco and then squeeze the 5 rivets from the cowl to the hinge being sure the countersink areas are perfect since you will see this ALOT! DON'T RIVET THE DOOR TO THE HINGE FIRST OR YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO GET YOUR RIVET SQUEEZER IN TO SQUEEZE THESE RIVETS.


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Take the clecos out and remove the door and put the other 5 rivets in

You can either......NOT squeeze the rivets that go into the door and paint the door separately or you can go ahead and squeeze them now and paint it. I use a small piece of wire to keep the door open while painting.

Note that the last 2 kits have NOT had the parts needed for the oil door. See if you have 2 of each of the SK28S3-2S Studs; SK2600-LWS Retaining Washer and SK213-2 Receptacle for the 1/4 turn screws and if not.......CALL CC and get them coming.

[Daveembry]

FINISH MANUAL

NOTE: The latest revision of the FINISH MANUAL dated 09/2022 had many of the below changes included. I haven't had a chance to go through and update this post yet (I will as I get to it on the current build) so hopefully, many of the issues addressed from here on in this manual will not apply.

Moving on to the FINISH MANUAL I'll start doing everything I can before moving my fuselage to the hangar where I'll install the wings, windshield, skylight, turtle deck, elevators, etc. My hangar is not heated and is a 30 minute drive away, so I like to do everything I possibly can before moving there this time of year to save some kerosene that goes into my space heaters.

The door handles go on with 2 of the SP23102-001 set screws on each handle. These have NOT been in the last few kits so you will probably need to check your kit and CC and get these 4 screws coming. I put some BLUE loctite on the screws as I have had them want to come out later.


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I put the "split" EXPERIMENTAL sticker on the door hinge where you get in and then put the "ROCKGUARD" clear plastic material all around the inside of the door to protect the paint. You will notice I don't like painting the metal parts of the door and hinge as I think it looks better natural. I think the newer kits no longer automatically send you this placard. You have to order it from CC in the color you prefer. There is a form in Dropbox that you can fill out and request all the graphics you want for your airplane. Yes, the standard stripes, logos, etc are included in the kit but you must order on this form and submit it.


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Be sure you have connected the static lines to each side of the inside of the boot cowl with the clamp as shown in the G3X Manual. I use the solder sleeve heat gun to heat up the end of the tubing to make it softer to fit over the fitting. I can't get then on any other way.
'
Install the hose now or later when you get the middle, left interior panel in and connect the cable to the rear seat heat vent inside and under the instrument panel. The clamps are HDW-100-213 and the hose is the RM0006-001 2" SCAT.


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As I noted earlier in the FUSE build, the drawing show an adel clamp on the tube above the box here to secure the cable to the fuse tube to hold it in place. You will notice the arm on the heat box goes all the way to the down position so it's best to have the cable angle over to the box from the more aft position to give it a better angle pulling and pushing that arm up and down. If you bring the cable further forward on the fuse and then straight down towards the arm, then in the down position it may be hard to get it to come up.


P1060512.jpg

REAR BAGGAGE AREA CARPET

I always purchase the extended baggage area carpet kit that CC sells. It's super lightweight and just Velcros into place on the back, floor and sides of the entire baggage area. You can just pull it out to clean. I'll install it now and then install the seat belts in place in the rear floor over the carpet.



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TORQUE PLATES FOR WHEELS

Just a heads up that the first few EX3 kits I've received had the wrong Torque Plates for the Grove brakes. The EX3 went to 6 hole plates (that mount onto gear leg) instead of the 4 hole that was on the EX2. They shipped SP45009-003, which is the 4 hole so check and see if they shipped that to you and if so, CALL MITCH and get the 6 hole coming. I'm almost ready to mount my wheels and brakes to load it on trailer and now have to wait for these.

I will cover installing the torque plates late in post #104.

INSTALL EXTENDED BAGGAGE DOOR

Go back to the FUSELAGE MANUAL, Page 45 & 63 to see the details and parts again. Hinge parts mounting to fuse are AN526C632R5 screws; AN960-C3L washers and AN365-832A locknuts.

The 1/4 turn hardware is HDW-85-11-200-20 1/4 turn screws; HDW-85-46-103-39 Plastic washers and HDW-84-34-101-20 retaining washer on backside of door.

I pulled all the hardware back when I was fitting the door in place and had it in a plastic bag so I'll just get it out now and install the hinge and 1/4 turn fasteners per the drawings.

I find the holes with a sharp awl, then use the soldering iron to burn the fabric/paint away from the holes. This is another good time (like doing the side door) where a little of that sticky fuel lube (EZ Turn) on your finger helps hold the washer to the nut and then both to your finger while you try to start the screw on the nut. Put a little dab of it on the washer and stick it to the nut and then some on your fingertip and stick the nut to it. If you can't get the washer to stay lined up after a few tries, you can also superglue the washer to the nut.


P1060518.jpg


Put the nut/washer on the very tip of your finger and with the screw and screwdriver in place, just try to slide it up under the screw to get it to catch in the holes of the nut/washer and then start turning the screwdriver while pushing the nut over straight. Go lefty and righty on the screwdriver until you can get it started.

P1060519.jpg


At this point I don't tighten the nuts up yet until after I've completely fitted the door with the 1/4 turn fasteners.

Close the door up and see how it fits and then push your awl through the center of the holes in the door and into the fabric on the fuse where the 1/4 turn receptacles are. Same thing......burn them open with the soldering iron.


P1060520.jpg

In the hardware listed, there are 1/4 turn fasteners, plastic washers which go on the outside of the door under the head of the 1/4 turn fastener and a metal retaining clip. Notice that the head of the 1/4 turn fasteners have a number on them like 180, 200, 220, etc. This is the length of the fastener. Grab one and put the plastic washer on and slide through the hole in the door and into the receptacle on the fuse. DON'T install the metal retainer yet until you are sure of the fit.


P1060521.jpg

Turn the fastener and see if it goes in good and is snug. If it won't go all the way in when you turn it then you need a longer one. If your turn it the 1/4 turn and it went the last bit loose and is sloppy or not snug, then it's too long.....go to a shorter one. If you have it just right it seems like the 180 and 200's work fine. The reason it differs is the thickness of the carbon fiber on the door and door frame and also the amount of poly brush/spray/paint, etc you put on when you finished it.

Once you find the ones that fit, go ahead and install the retaining clips with a good pair of needle nose pliers. Try and push 1 side of the split in the ring under the riser on the stud and then use the pliers to try and get the rest of the clip under that riser. It's kindof like installing those damn fairlead clips!


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If you close the baggage door and it doesn't easily go flush with the door frame all the way around, you may move the hinge around just a bit one way or the other if you have a little room in the holes where the screws went in (you can drill them out a little bigger if needed to let the screws move around some if needed). Once you have it good then tighten those little nuts.

[Daveembry]

BRAKE LINES

NOTE: If you want to save some money, order the brake lines and fittings separately. Here is what I used from Summit Racing.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1101. You will need 4 of these straight fittings to connect the stainless steel brake line to the fittings. Cost today is $44 for 4 of them.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcc0410. This is for 10' of the stainless steel brake line in -04AN size. This is enough to do the 2 brake lines and cost is $50

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm2031. These are the 4 AN822-4D elbows used to connect the above straight fittings to the master cylinder at the pedals and to the brake calipers at the wheel. Cost of these 4 is $32.

TOTAL COST HERE IS ABOUT $126 instead of the $850 or so that CC charges. So quite the savings.

Here are the instructions for installing them. The part numbers below are the ones if you purchase the Stainless Steel brake line kit from CC.

I don't cover my landing gear because it will just beat up if landing off airport enough. It might cost a couple mph but I like the looks without it being covered as well. I also install the VP0400-001 STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE LINES since the lines are exposed a little more. I also turn the fittings around on the brake calipers (on the 1.75" heavy duty brake option I always get as well) so that the line in goes on top instead of the bottom. More protection against rocks, etc.

If you get the stainless steel brake lines you will have to change out the 90 degree elbow fitting that we installed on the brake cylinder on the pedals earlier and install the AN822-4D elbows (blue) that should come with the brake lines as well as the VP1101-001 Straight Fittings that connect onto the end of the brake line. Use the Loctite 567 Thread Sealer on all the fittings.


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(The BLUE fitting here will have to be installed in place of the standard fitting)

Burn a hole on either side of the underside of the fuse per the photos on Page 4.4, Section 3.4 (Landing Gear) of the FINISH MANUAL for the line to pass through. I just take the line and burn a small hole and try to pass the line through and keep opening it up a bit until it fits. Then I seal it with a little silicone.


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Run it over and up through the grommet into the cockpit. I use a Dremel with cut off wheel and cut the very end of the braided steel line off nice and clean before installing the fitting on it. First wrap several wraps of masking tape around the braided line and then make your cut in the taped area to keep it from fraying.

Screw off the end of the fitting that goes over the steel line and put it over the line and back out of the way. (The piece on the left in this photo)


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The outside of the line may have a plastic coating over the steel braid, so I split that 1/4" back and then use a small, flat screwdriver to separate the braid from the line.

Next separate the braided steel from the tubing at the end and fit the one piece (ferrule) between the braid and the tube. Insure that looking into the end of the ferrule that you push this ferrule up over the tube and between the braided stainless steel far enough so that you can see the white plastic line is up against the ferrule. It's easier to use a small piece of wood and push the end of the line here up against the wood to get the line up against this ferrule.



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LASTLY, put the other half of the fitting with the tube on the end, inside the fitting and tighten. If you can't get the tube part of the fitting to go inside the ferrule, then I take an awl and push it up into the ferrule to align the white line with the ferrule and even spread it open a little more.

ALSO I think there is now a short video in Dropbox that covers installing these fittings.

For the last 2 kits, they have sent me the wrong stainless steel lines. The one they sent had too small of an inside diameter tubing so the fitting wouldn't go in. The fitting is .20" where it goes into the tube and the one they sent me was half that size ID. Took me forever last time trying to make it work before Mitch said it was wrong and sent the correct one, so check yours first. I'll have to wait now for the correct line.


INTERIOR PANELS

NOTE: I don't install any of the left side interior panels until last. The reason is that I like to put fuel in the tanks for a few days while I look and watch all the fuel line connectors and the fuel selector for leaks. Several of my fuel selector valves have leaked weeks.....or months ....AFTER first putting fuel in. This is from dry orings in them. Now I take the selectors apart, clean and lubricate the orings and install. I still watch for several days with fuel in the lines to be sure it ...or any of the connectors are not leaking.

To start with I was missing all the Nylon rivets needed. You need about 60 of them. HDW-SR-5065B is the part number. That is unless you use nutplates instead like I do now.

Slide the middle, left panel in place. Be sure the velcro is on the post on the back side as well as at the top lip that goes over the window sill area. Put the 3M Adhesive Promoter on first. I like these small, individual packets on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

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After getting the fuel selector through the panel, install the hardware per the FINISH MANUAL and FN17 on Page 65. The figure is such bad resolution I can't really make it out. I think the 2 screws at the top are AN526C1032R8. I used these and they worked. The bottom 2 I guessed at AN507C632R8 and it works. The center screw in the turn knob I guessed at AN507C832R7 and there was 1 in the kit and it also worked.


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I was missing the placard that goes around the fuel selector valve. Here are some other placards I was missing as well so you might as check your kit and give MITCH A CALL if you are missing any. They are listed on the next to last page in the FINISH KIT packing list.

Missing Placards:
- ??? 2 Fuel Tank cover placards
- ??? The one that goes around the fuel selector valve
- CK10950-001 Amateur-Built Warning (the NEW one. The wording changed a few years ago)
- SC10950-017/CC11 Extended Cargo
- SC10950-007/CC11 Forward Cargo
- SC73110-001 Magnetic sensor location
- SK10957-001 Oil Door

I line the panels up with my marks on the masking tape on the bottom and use an awl to help get the first couple panels perfectly in line with the drilled holes BUT BE CAREFUL.....THE FABRIC IS RIGHT THERE so don't go through to the fabric with your awl!

Like I mentioned before, I use these curved pliers that are almost free at Harbor Freight.


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They work perfectly to hold the rivets base while you push them in completely, then while holding it there with the pliers, reach with your other hand and push it in all the way.


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Again, be sure the front side panels are going to the OUTSIDE of the fuse at the very front (behind the rudder pedals). They do NOT go to the inside of the cockpit but outside to hold them away.


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INSTALLING D WINDOWS

NOTE: I would skip ahead to the next post #95 and install the rear seat sling onto the fuse before installing these rear windows as it’s easier without the windows in the way.

My windows have always fitted perfectly with no trimming but you can go to the FINISH MANUAL, Page 44 to go over checking it out. If you want to paint the "D" design in the back windows, then you can download the template in Dropbox under the "CCK PICTURES/PAINT" folders for it and put it on poster board.

Even if you don't want to paint the D window design on them, you still will probably have to paint the very bottom of the window up a couple inches to match the bottom of the front window where you have to paint it......to line up with the windshield liner. I wait and install these D windows almost last after I have the windshield and side windows all installed so it lines up nice with the paint lines.

CHUCK & RYAN'S post is again explained very well so I'll put it in here now. Note that it's a little different layout now in that the paint line will run right through the flap cone pocket but it's the same principle.

Rear side windows


A pattern was made scaling it to size from the pattern on the website on a piece of grid marked poster board. (I have previously commented on that stuff. It is really handy). The pattern was carefully cut out, since both the inner and outer portion will be used.

The outer portion (which marks the area to be painted) was used to cut away the protective wrap about a half inch inside where the paint edge will be. This was done with a scissors. We avoided touching the plastic window with a knife or any sharp object whatsoever.



The inner pattern was taped in place. The area that will be painted was buffed with a super fine Scotch Brite pad.



The outer pattern was set on the window and used as a reference for applying the 3M blue 1/8” tape. The area was then carefully masked.



The area to be painted was sprayed with Bull Dog adhesion promoter and permitted to set up for a few minutes per the instructions, then followed with the finish coat of PPG Polyurethane. The plastic was placed on a vertical board, suspended with a nail through the flap hole, to minimize dust settling on the surface. It came out well. What I don't know is how durable it will be.




FLAP CONES

FINISH MANUAL, Page 10.1, Section 1-10 and FNB1-11. Use the figure to install the cones in place. The rest of the hardware will be installed on the long bolt when we install the flaps so just put some tape on it for now. Be sure the bearing is seated all the way into the flap cone and that you use the AN4-14 length bolt shown here. You will see later when we install the flaps why this one is the correct length.

Go forward and look at Post #123 to see how there is some incorrect figures, etc related to this flap cone.

We already installed the seat belts and flap handle.

WINDOW FRAMES

FINISH MANUAL, Page 2-2, Section 2-2. Install the window latches on each frame.

NOTE: CHECK THE FRAMES TO BE SURE THEY ARE LABELED CORRECTLY. I JUST SPEND ALL THE TIME TO INSTALL THE HARDWARE AND WENT TO MOUNT THE FRAMES AND NOTICED THE FACTORY HAD THE LABELS WRONG ON BOTH.....BOTH.....OF THE FRAMES. The left frame was labeled as the right one and the right one labeled as the left one. YOU CAN TELL BY LOOKING AT THE HINGE AND BEING SURE THE HINGE IS TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE AIRPLANE WHEN INSTALLED AND THE LEFT WINDOW IS SHORTER THAN THE RIGHT.

Note that the plastic washers NAS1515H08L calls for 4 each on the screw between the handle piece and the window frame. (NOT under the screw head) That is correct. This gives you room to adjust the distance later if you need to when fitting. Just pay attention to which side of the frame you are installing the handles. The handles go on the INSIDE of the frame (cockpit) with the bent part facing inboard.

The nut goes inside the frame and you can get your 11/32" wrench in from the bottom to tighten it up snug. Here are photos of the LH frame.


P1060536.jpg


P1060537.jpg



P1060534.jpg

[Daveembry]

​​​WINDOW FRAMES (cont)

Continuing on FINISH MANUAL Page 2.1, Section 2-2, the hinges are already installed (thats what the HDW-CR3522-4-3 part #'s are, not the bolts). The handles are the only thing we install right now. Later we will install the window catch SC23211-001 and the latches into the fuse after the wings and windows are installed.

Match drill with #40 and then #18 bits through the header panels. Use AN525-832R7 screws with AN960-8 washers under the AN365-832A nuts to attach the frame to the header.

On the left, aft side of the window hinge, you will need to put the black ground wire that is in that header panel wiring harness, onto one of the screws and under the nut. I sand the paint off where that wire connector makes contact with the fuse hinge attach fitting. They say your really don't need to do that since the screw makes contact with the ground wire and the inside of the metal but I still like really good grounds. NOTE: If you have the IFR panel with the audio and Com 20A radio under the turtle deck, this ground wire will not be in the harness.


P1060541.jpg


Note the line of holes on the outside of the nuts. Ignore this as it was incorrect alignment of the header panel before match drilling. The header panel should be pressed up against the fuselage completely before drilling. The header both top and bottom should be up against the tubes.

P1060542.jpg

(In this photo you can see how the hinge should be....it should be on the outside of the frame/airplane. Be sure they have the window frame parts tags correct. As I said, mine were labeled wrong.....both of them!)

I'm not sure why the manual says to only put the 2 screws into each hinge now but maybe just to check it out and be sure it's all square with the fuse. If not, you can shift one side down by using washers between the window frame hinge and the fuse header panel to move that side down. It doesn't have to be perfect because the bottom of the window there will be painted covering up the bottom of the window frame and the front will have a cover piece. You can go ahead and install all the screws/washer/nuts at this time.

UPDATE: I NOW DONT INSTALL THE INTERIOR PANELS UNTIL THE LAST THING BEFORE FLYING. THE REASON IS THAT I LIKE TO LEAVE THEM OFF SO I CAN SEE THE FUEL SELECTOR VALVE AFTER I HAVE FUEL IN THE SYSTEM AND TO SEE THE FUEL CONNECTIONS TO LOOK FOR ANY LEAKS. SO I CANT INSTALL THE PREBENT CATCHES UNTIL THOSE PANELS ARE IN.

WINDOW LATCHES

UPDATE: Jan, 2023

I wanted to update this part of the thread/post to say that I have begun to NOT PERFORM THIS TASK UNTIL AFTER THE WINDSHIELD AND SIDE WINDOWS ARE INSTALLED...... which is just before the plane is completely finished.

The reason is that it can more precisely be done only after the windshield and side trim piece is installed as well as the side window with the weather-stripping installed. This is because these latches should only be cut into the door (right side) or the left window sill (where it will cut down through the top of the middle, left interior panel and fabric spacer there) after these items are installed so you can close the window completely with the side window overlapping the side A pillar post (where the windshield and trim piece are). Waiting until then will give you the very best fit so you can have the window close and latch perfectly and keep out the wind. Everything below applies and is correct paying special attention to my remarks about not cutting and installing the metal cover until you have perfectly cut the hole down where the latch (when closed) will rest against the side of the cut. The metal cover is only mostly for looks and not designed to hold the window shut (see below). So just come back to this post after the side windows are installed and follow it.

Take a look at this thread on the forum where there was a discussion about this. https://forum.cubcrafters.com/showth...ighlight=Latch

TO CLARIFY THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW: If you look at the discussion in the thread above you should see what I'm talking about with the location of the cut-out for the window latch.

The info below shows how the cover plate is installed but note that THE COVER PLATE ITSELF DOES NOT KEEP THE WINDOW PULLED SHUT, THE LATCH GOING DOWN INTO THE TOP OF THE INTERIOR PANEL AT THE CORRECT LOCATION DOES THAT. THE COVER PLATE IS ONLY A DECORATIVE COVER FOR THE HOLE YOU CUT.

You first must be sure of where your window, when installed on the frame......will hit the front of the fuselage frame there as it will overlap the frame. Then when you cut the hole INTO THE INTERIOR PANEL TOP (and on the left side you will probably cut through the top of the interior panel as well as into the carbon fiber fabric spacer there on that side) just be sure that the outboard side of the latch itself....when in the down and closed position.......will be right up against the cutout. That is what will keep the window pulled up tight against the fuselage when flying. The cover plate itself just goes on with the 2 sided tape to cover the hole you cut and look nice (and keep your window latch from hitting the painted side of the airplane if you slam the window with it in the down position).

So measure it good with the window frame/window aligned first with the front and rear tubes of the fuselage and then cut the holes so the latch presses up against that outboard side of the hole. Then install the cover as required.

The catches are pre-bent now also by the factory where the window handles go down into. I found the ones on the right (That goes into the door) are the right distance if mounted with the bent part flush with the outside of the door but the left ones are bent too far out. You can install it a bit overhanging the outside of the window sill (its over the left, middle interior panel) and you may have to also add some more of the plastic washers between the window latches and the frame to get the frame out further to being flush with the front and rear tubes on the fuse that the plexiglass windows will overlap.

Also be sure that when you lower the window with the latches in the DOWN position (like they would normally be when locking the window in place) that it will hit the lip of the catch and prevent it from hitting the paint if you accidentally have one in the down position when you close it.


P1060545.jpg

(See here how I have overhung the pre-bent part of the plate a little more towards the outside but the front of the frame is not flush with the fuse where the arrows are)


P1060546.jpg

(I will add more of the plastic washers here to get the frame out further.)



P1060543.jpg

A bungee works good to hold the window up while you are working on it.


BATTERY BOX

We previously set up the battery box back when doing the fuse. I would not install it or the front seat and belly pan until after you have installed the ailerons and elevators and made final tension adjustments to their cables and final install of the autopilot servos if you have them.

You can drill the holes for the battery cables now and install the grommets. The correct grommets are MS35489-11.


REAR SEAT AND SEAT HOLDER

FINISH MANUAL, Section 2-9, Page 9.1. I think pretty much self explanatory. The tops of the seat install like this over the top fuse bar. Note how the fuel lines go into the side of the header panel. You can see that this is easier to install BEFORE you install your "D" windows.


P1060553.jpg


HORIZONTAL STABILIZERS

Here are a couple videos I did.

Part 1 https://youtu.be/GeaOPw3EFgE
Part 2 https://youtu.be/puRGcrMjcGE

FINISH MANUAL. Section 2-13. Page 13.1. Tubes part numbers listed are wrong. XC15009-001 is the front and XC15008-001 for the rear are the correct numbers . The rest is pretty self explanatory. I want to say that you need to be very careful drilling the holes into the stabilizers. The tubes are very hard so I use an electric drill when drilling through the hard metal instead of my battery powered drill. The problem came in when I was working on my last plane and I put alot of pressure down to get the bit to bite and the bit broke and when it broke, the drill went forward and of course through the finished and painted stabilizer!!! So, I got my first lesson on removing riveted fabric and got to recover and repaint that stabilizer! Now I think I'll just stick with my battery drill and take longer because the drill will bind down and stop before breaking the bit if it gets a little sideways!


stabilizer tear.jpg

The holes are pre-drilled now in the stabilizers so you just need to locate them and clean them out with the #30 drill. You can look inside the tube in the stabilizer and see the holes. The front (curved edge) holes are 1.25" from the outside of the tube. I take an awl to locate the hole, then drill, then after going to the final size holes of .191 or #11 bits are done (FN26 says to drill to .191 which is #11 but manual says #12 which is wrong but works), then use the soldering iron to clean the fabric/paint, etc away. The rear holes are .75" from the edge.

Before installing the cross tubes into the first stabilizer on the bench, clean the tubes and test fit the cross tubes into the stabilizer tubes to be sure they go in OK.

The front tube seems to fit OK once you have cleaned the paint out of the tubes but the rear one is pretty tight and took a few taps with a rubber mallet after cleaning and scraping it. Once thing to do is that after you have 1 side done with the cross tubes installed and bolted in, then before inserting it into the fuse, first be sure the cross tubes will fit OK into the other stabilizer on the bench so you aren't fighting it while at the airplane. Just sand, clean, etc the tubes until they go in OK on the bench and then insert it into the fuse and follow the manual to finishing up.

When installing them, you can use a ratchet strap or, if you have them fitting well, I just reach over the fuse with my hands on either side and pull them together. The big thing is not to get them jammed by pulling one side too far. Just slide the front an inch and then the rear, etc. back and forth. If you have the tubes fitting easily before mounting in the fuse, you can do it with your ha da.

My front tubes stick out 2.9” on either side in the front and 2.55” on either side of the rear tube.


MOUNTING TIRES ON RIMS

Short video here about it. https://youtu.be/oREEMNZf02w

I'm using the standard CC Grove wheels with the 1.75" Heavy Duty brakes with the 31" Alaskan Bushwheel tires. I'm sure you know but one of the best things about these tires is that the tube is essentially built in to the tire with the valve stem recessed flush with the side of the tire. The valve stem does not go through the wheel, so you should take some silicone caulk and seal up the hole in the wheel to keep dirt, etc out.

The good thing about this is that you can still spin the tires on the rims without breaking off the valve stem which can happen on tires with the stem going through the wheel/rim and if the tire does spin on the rim, the tube is built in so it doesn't hurt anything (except your braking).

Remove the valve stem core and let all the air out of the tires.

The wheel bearings in the wheels must be re-packed with good grease like Aeroshell 22. Here is a good EAA video on how to do it if you haven't done it before http://www.eaavideo.org/detail/video...-and-repacking. After packing with the grease, leave one side of the wheel without the bearings until after you have installed the rim into the tire so you can look in and be sure you are not pinching the tire with the 2 halves of the wheels.

Here is a link to the Grove website with their instructions for installing the tires and brakes. These are 6.00 x 6 rims I'm using. The instructions and the wheel themselves say to torque to 150 in lbs. The brake calipers will be torqued to 90 in lbs. http://groveaircraft.com/brakeinstall.html.


P1060549.jpg

At this link for the tires you can see on pages 9 & 10 the tire mounting instructions from Airframes Alaska who owns the Alaskan Bushwheel tire company. http://www.airframesalaska.com/v/vsp...%20ICA-AML.pdf

I found the best way was to put the brake rotor half of the rim with the bolts in it on the back side of the tire (not side with valve stem). Put masking tape over the bolt heads and the rim to keep them from falling out when you put the wheel down on the floor.

With that side on the floor of the garage with some blocks of wood on the floor underneath it to hold it up in place, I then get the other half of the rim set inside the tire and then get the 3 bolts started through to the outside of the rim. Be sure the tire is mounted with the valve stem to the outside. They recommend that the tires later get rotated not only side to side but on the rims as well.

After starting the bolts I lay the tire down onto the 2 blocks on the floor so that the brake rotor is resting on it so it will keep the rim pushed up good. I then get my fat butt and stand on the other side of the rim until enough air goes out of the tire and my weight pushing that side of the rim down far enough to get at least 1 washer/nut started (so it's best to have a set in your hand to start with). Then put the rest of them on and torque to the 150 in lbs.

Install the other side of the wheel bearings and air up until you get the tire edge/bead to get up against the rim. Usually about 10 psi will do it. Get a precise measurement of the air pressure and then check them in a day or 2 and see if they leaked any. I actually had a bad one on my last plane. If you look inside the tire about where the 2 halves of the wheels meet, you will see a tire patch. This is actually not a patch but just a cover they use over a valve that they use to inject the rubber that makes up the inside tire. After filling it they remove the valve and plug it but one of mine had a very small leak after a few days. I removed the tire and put some spit around that patch and it bubbled. Alaska Bushwheels were great......they overnighted a new tire and a call tag to pick up the bad one to return. Couldn't ask for better customer service.


P1060551.jpg

I'll just mount up the tires on the rims using a very small amount of talc powder to help rims slide into the center of the 31" tires. Don't use too much because you don't want the tires to slide/slip around on the rims when you get on the brakes when landing.

LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

I attached 2 drawings that address installing the standard bungee gear you can refer to but to install the wheels to the gear you can see on the attachments the hardware. Here is a photo of one of the 2 figures showing that.


P1060552.jpg



NOW IT'S TIME TO TAKE THE FUSE TO THE HANGAR AND START HANGING THE WINGS, INSTALLING THE WINDSHIELD, FLAPS, AILERONS, ELEVATORS, SKYLIGHT, TURTLE DECK, ETC. SURE HOPE WE GET SOME WARM WEATHER THE NEXT FEW WEEKS SO i CAN BE FLYING!


GETTING READY FOR THE INSPECTION

Also depending on how fast you are building and time of year, you will want to get Mitch to send you the DATA PLATE and your BILL OF SALE. The Bill of Sale will need to go into FAA to get your paperwork started because you'll need your Registration from them when you get your final inspection. The model year on the registration will be the date the FSDO or DAR signs your Airworthiness Cert.

I recommend purchasing the EAA publications. Here is a link to the process https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-bui...built-aircraft and here is the link to their CERTIFICATION GUIDE. I used this for the first plane and it was great with a complete checklist of exactly what you need to do and in the correct order/timing along with all the FAA Forms needed. https://www.eaa.org/Shop/ProductCata...SubTopicID=945

FYI. I HAVE 362 TOTAL HOURS IN THE BUILD TO THIS POINT.

[ceslaw]

I would add two post scripts to this:

First, it is best to wait to paint the rear side windows until the end when the precise location of the door - window paint lines is known.

Second, when I did this project some three years ago I questioned how durable it would be. I can say now that it has held up well. No failure of the paint whatsoever. I am convinced that Bull Dog is an important part of the process.

By the way, very nice and detailed blog! ! !

Chuck


Rear side windows

A pattern was made scaling it to size from the pattern on the website on a piece of grid marked poster board. (I have previously commented on that stuff. It is really handy). The pattern was carefully cut out, since both the inner and outer portion will be used.

[deleted material]

The area to be painted was sprayed with Bull Dog adhesion promoter and permitted to set up for a few minutes per the instructions, then followed with the finish coat of PPG Polyurethane. The plastic was placed on a vertical board, suspended with a nail through the flap hole, to minimize dust settling on the surface. It came out well. What I don't know is how durable it will be.

[Daveembry]

Thanks Chuck. Good point about the paint line. There is a windshield liner, which goes around the base of the windshield later. It wraps around to the side and should be installed so that the bottom of the windshield liner aligns with the bottom of the side windows. The D window, if being painted.....would be painted first according to the pattern. Then the front window is fitted (the new windows do not require any fitting at all for all 3 planes I've had) and then the paint line along the bottom is aligned so that the top of that paint line matches the top of the D window paint line (just over 2" or so). The front of the side window going from the bottom to the top is just wide enough to cover the metal framework that the window is attached to. I've noticed that the planes not painting the rear D windows that they also don't paint that bottom to top strip on the front of the side window. By not painting the rear D window, all the framework is exposed so it's just personal preference. I like to cover it up myself.

The BullDog is good stuff. On the last plane I had the fuel selector leak right from the factory and didn’t notice it for 2 weeks. It was a very small leak with maybe a drop every few hours but left a blue stain that came through the fabric at the side stringer and I wanted to touch up the paint. One of the CC dealers said they had tried to paint touchup one that had the same issue before and they did it twice and both times, the paint wouldn’t stick where the fuel had soaked through the fabric/poly brush/spray/paint.......and peeled off and they had to finally do a fabric patch. Talking to the factory, they said that after sanding to just put some bulldog on that area before painting and it would stick. I did that and it worked great. Blended the DUHS PPG paint right in and you can’t see the touch up area at all. Just FYI to those who might have that situation arise.

I would add two post scripts to this:

First, it is best to wait to paint the rear side windows until the end when the precise location of the door - window paint lines is known.

Second, when I did this project some three years ago I questioned how durable it would be. I can say now that it has held up well. No failure of the paint whatsoever. I am convinced that Bull Dog is an important part of the process.

By the way, very nice and detailed blog! ! !

Chuck


Rear side windows

A pattern was made scaling it to size from the pattern on the website on a piece of grid marked poster board. (I have previously commented on that stuff. It is really handy). The pattern was carefully cut out, since both the inner and outer portion will be used.

[deleted material]

The area to be painted was sprayed with Bull Dog adhesion promoter and permitted to set up for a few minutes per the instructions, then followed with the finish coat of PPG Polyurethane. The plastic was placed on a vertical board, suspended with a nail through the flap hole, to minimize dust settling on the surface. It came out well. What I don't know is how durable it will be.

[ceslaw]

Well, Dave, you just made my day.

I had the exact same issue with a leak from the fuel selector causing a bit of discoloration in the paint, and it would not hold the touch up paint. Never occurred to me to use the Bull Dog on it. I will do so, and fix that small but annoying issue. Good tip.

I believe I posted on that leaky valve issue, long ago. Turned out the O rings were fractionally too small, compared to the replacements. I always suspected there would be a rash of builders with leaky valves.

Chuck

[ATXCubDriver]

Or just leave em square!!

IMG_5251.jpg

I would add two post scripts to this:

First, it is best to wait to paint the rear side windows until the end when the precise location of the door - window paint lines is known.

Second, when I did this project some three years ago I questioned how durable it would be. I can say now that it has held up well. No failure of the paint whatsoever. I am convinced that Bull Dog is an important part of the process.

By the way, very nice and detailed blog! ! !

Chuck


Rear side windows

A pattern was made scaling it to size from the pattern on the website on a piece of grid marked poster board. (I have previously commented on that stuff. It is really handy). The pattern was carefully cut out, since both the inner and outer portion will be used.

[deleted material]

The area to be painted was sprayed with Bull Dog adhesion promoter and permitted to set up for a few minutes per the instructions, then followed with the finish coat of PPG Polyurethane. The plastic was placed on a vertical board, suspended with a nail through the flap hole, to minimize dust settling on the surface. It came out well. What I don't know is how durable it will be.

[Daveembry]

Yep.....it seems more and more people are leaving them square since going away from the traditional cub paint schemes (like ALL firecracker red huh!). 😉

Or just leave em square!!

IMG_5251.jpg