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Thread: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

  1. #81
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Broken Arrow, OK

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints


    NOTE: UPDATE OCT 2020. All the info below is for installing the Aerosport assembled engines that are painted black. Later serial numbers will come with the Lycoming assembled engines and they are painted silver. There are several things different on these Lycoming engines that have to be done:

    1) You will have to remove a metal shipping plate they install between the fuel servo and the intake air box. There are 4 bolts and you have to fully remove the bottom 2 and just loosen the top 2 and the plate will slip out to the bottom. There should be a gasket already in place. Re-install the bolts; torque and safety wire together.

    2) You should have some paperwork with the engine (Service Letters, etc) and one of them explains that if you are using a constant speed prop, you will have to knock out the plug that is inside the crankshaft in the big hole just behind where the prop bolts on. I'll try and get some photos on the next one. This plug is installed for fixed pitched props so that oil does not go up to where the prop governor/prop would be. Since we are using the constant speed, we will want to knock out this plug so oil can flow from the engine to them. I used a big punch and just gently hit the plug until it comes loose and you can grab it. Don't drill a hole as the metal shavings would contaminate the oil/engine.

    3). You will have to install the alternator. The drawing is now in the new Dropbox FWF manual. I didn't have most all of the bolts, nuts and washers needed so check with your inventory and get the stuff you need to order off to CC. One thing they don't show is that you do have to drill out both sides of the mounting holes in the alternator. There is a separate drawing that shows that (not in the manual). If you are looking at the alternator from the front of the aircraft as it will mount, the bolt that the wires will attach to will on the bottom, back, right. The bolt hold on the right is threaded and you have to drill it out to 0.332 so the AN5-17A bolt will pass through it. This equates to a LETTER SIZE Q drill bit. A 21/64" is .3281 and is too small. 11/32" is .3438. The other hole is not threaded and will take the AN7-15A bolt and is to be drilled out to .469". a 15/32" will work at .4688.

    4) I have noticed some differences in the Lycoming Engine as well when flying and breaking in (so far). I found that I do NOT need to put tape on the oil cooler as I did on the Aerosport engine. I used the Aerosport M100 (50 wt mineral oil) in temps around 50 degrees and had no problem with the oil gelling in the cooler as I did on the Aerosport. Here is what happens:

    There is a "vernatherm" (like an oil thermostat) in the system that opens and lets oil flow to the oil cooler to be cooled when it reaches a certain temperature. In the Aerosport, it would be around 186-187 or so. In the Lycoming, it's been about 182-183. When the oil is cooler, the vernatherm shuts off the oil flow to the oil cooler and lets it get warmer inside the engine until it heats enough to once again open the vernatherm and let it flow again into the cooler.

    Now, the problem. M100, 50 wt mineral oil is very very thick. When it's very cold outside and it's blowing into the oil cooler, it will actually "gel" the oil in there. Then the engine oil heats up to the vernatherm temp (like 182 in Lycoming) and lets the oil go to the cooler.....BUT.....the oil is so cold and thick (M100) that it essentially clogs up the oil cooler and the oil can't flow into the cooler to be cooled it just keeps getting hotter and hotter. I saw my oil temps rise fairly rapidly to like 206-210. If CHT's look ok, then you know it's not an engine problem.

    After a bit, it seems the really hot oil finally gets into the oil cooler enough to start to warm up that "gelled" ....cold oil and it starts to flow again and then you'll see the temps drop rapidly back to the 182 range ...... where the cycle is likely to start over and again.....and do it over and over.

    The solution has been to tape off half of the oil cooler so it doesn't cool the oil so much. On the Aerosport engine, I never too that tape off...year round....even in OK summer temps.

    But the Lycoming doesn't seem to do that. I started with 1/2 of the cooler taped off and with OAT temps around 50, the oil temps rose into the 201-203 range....BUT JUST STAYED THERE. It didn't cycle back and forth as if the cooler had gelled the oil. So after about 10 hours of flying I finally decided it was just that the vernatherm was open and the oil was not gelled.....but rather that the oil was really just staying that warm. I removed the tape and at 50-55 degrees OAT, the oil went to 182 and stays there regardless of OAT.

    So, on the Lycoming, don't put any tape on the cooler unless you happen to see the "cycling" of the temps back and forth. That lets you know it's oil gelling in the cooler.

    Getting to be fun now and looking like an airplane with our boot cowl on and now the engine.

    If you haven’t already found them, there is a great folder in Dropbox called CCK PICTURES and folders in there with them broken down by category. There are good photos of the engine area but do note that photos 4 & 5 that show the connection of the ignition wires on the coils ARE WRONG! I will discuss this in more detail a little further in this thread when we get to that area, but just note for now that it is wrong.


    FIRST, BEFORE YOU HANG THE ENGINE, PUT SOME WEIGHT ON THE TAIL! Without the wings being on the plane, the plane will be very nose heavy. It won't tip over very easy but you can see it doesn't take much so just strap some weight to the hand hold on the tail to be sure.


    Before installing the engine I like to go ahead and do what I can on it like installing the TOP spark plugs (they ship you the same plugs they did the engine "run-in" with, so you will see they are used); oil filler tube; oil pressure hose plug, etc. I don't install the bottom spark plugs yet because right before starting the engine for the first time, we would remove them anyway to cycle the cylinders using the starter only to get the preservative oil out and get the oil pump primed with fresh oil before the first start.


    They say to use Champion Anti-Seize 2612 on spark plugs. It is very thin and only a very small amount should be put around the end of the plug before installing it.

    FOR THE 340 engine or engines without the spark plug adapters, torque to 160 inch lbs. or 13.3 ft. lbs.

    For engines like 363i Lycoming with the SPARK PLUG ADAPTERS, torque the adapters (7/8" socket) to 35=45 ft lbs and SPARK PLUGS (5/8" socket) to 20 ft lbs. This is per the instructions give in the Lightspeed Manual.


    I go ahead and put a mark on the flywheel so that I can put it back on the way it was originally on from the factory. I use a sharper to write an arrow on the flywheel pointing to one of the prop lugs holes it attaches to that I have sharpie marked it all around the hole. The engine factory actually runs the engine about 2 hours before shipping it (the papers showing the "run-in" runs should be in your engine logbook folder) so the engine should be completely finished with all components installed (lucky me, I got the first engine and it they had taken all the parts off before shipping like the mechanical fuel pump, intake manifold, fuel servo, etc etc.) . The flywheel is taken off when we install the ignition pick-up sensors.

    FOR LYCOMING ENGINE: These are shipped with the flywheel already off. If you look at the hub on the engine, you will probably see a sharpie “O” at one of the holes. Then look at the back of the flywheel and you should see the same “O” stamped next to one of the holes there. Match these up when you install the flywheel.


    Follow the FFW MANUAL, Page 12 FF7 and install the VP5608-001 Nut, Tachometer; (NOT USED ON LYCOMING ENGINE)


    Oil fill tube and safety wire it. Be sure the gasket is on first.


    Install the oil temp probe SP71328-007 per the figure and safety wire it.



    The SP56203-003 and -005 fittings that go onto the mechanical fuel pump are not in a regular parts bag. They were used by the engine manufacturers and they take them out and put them in a plastic bag with all the engine papers, etc. The one that looks like a "T" is the -005 fitting that goes on the left side of the fuel pump and the straight one is the -003 one that goes on the right side of the fuel pump.



    Also in the engine bag with these parts are 2 other parts. One is in a little, brown Lycoming box and says "Adapter Assy-Fuel Drain Valve" and another blue, 45 degree fitting.


    Both these parts will install onto the fitting that is coming out of the carbon fiber intake manifold. The blue, angle fitting goes INSIDE the silver fitting in the intake and then the "sniffle valve" (the Lycoming part) will screw onto it and have a hose that will provide a drain of excess fuel.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Daveembry; 05-19-2021 at 06:24 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

  2. #82
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Broken Arrow, OK

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints


    On FFW, Page 14 & 15, FF8 & 9 you will see that we install XC56111-001 in the side of the engine. The hose from the OIL PRESSURE SENSOR on the firewall will connect to this. BUT.......on the engine you will see a blue, anodized plug in this hole and next to it, on the BACK of the engine you will see a silver fitting with a 45 deg. bend. We will REMOVE that fitting and put the plug we remove from the side of the engine in that hole and discard that fitting. Then install the XC56111-001 fitting in that side hole.


    (this is the way it comes from the factory)

    (This is how it should look after you install it)

    Install the fitting we previously installed on the fuel drain into the back fitting on the fuel pump.


    SP56201-107 and SP56201-111 Oil Hoses mount onto the back of the engine per FFW Page 15, FF9 and go to the oil cooler later.

    Connect rubber hose SP50007-101 to the SP50007-103 90 degree Breather Fitting and install per figure as well.

    NOTE that it isn't listed but you should get and install SK56101-001 which is a SLUG, RESTRICTOR that goes inside SP56203-009 FITTING, ELBOW before installing the fuel line going to the fuel pressure sensor. This is something they added on later and it keeps the fuel pressure readings from fluctuation so much. Go to this link to see it



    I also put the cover on over the electric fuel pump as it's really hard to get on and off after the engine is installed.


    I'll go ahead and connect the fuel lines to the gasolator and the front low point drain. The line that is coming directly out of the fuel selector switch is the one going to the gasolator and the other to the drain.

    Be sure you have tightened the bolts up from the engine mount to the fuse. You can't really torque it because you can't get to the nuts so Mitch say to just snug them up good. The bolts mounting the engine onto the mounts are 480-560 in lbs. I'll just use 44 ft lbs on my big torque wrench.

    Nice! Always fun to see the engine hanging. Not a bad days work!

    Last edited by Daveembry; 12-04-2020 at 10:29 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

  3. #83
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Broken Arrow, OK

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints


    A reminder again to look at the detailed photos in DROPBOX, CCK PICTURE/ENGINE (except remember the photos 7 & 18 show the WRONG connection of the ignition wires to the coils!) see below. Photos 5 & 6 show the correct installation.

    Skipping ahead to FFW, Page 31, Fig. 14. The Fuel Flow Transducer part number is SP71328-002, not the VP6215-014 number shown. There will be a 90 degree fitting on the top of the fuel servo you will have to remove and install the fittings shown in the figure.

    Check your fuel lines. You should have 2 of the SP50211-105 but my last 2 kits only had 1. 1 goes from the fuel pressure sensor on the firewall to the mechanical fuel pump and the other goes from the mechanical fuel pump to the fuel servo. Check your packing lists for the FFW and if you only got 1 get Mitch to get you one coming.

    Also be careful when looking closely at FFW photos #7 & 18. There is a BIG ERROR in the photos. The wires going to the coils are wrong. The coils are mounted correctly (and they are now coming pre-mounted on the engine from the factory) but notice that the one on top is opposite directions than the ones on the bottom. This makes the positive and negative terminals for the ignition wires coming from the ignition boxes different when you look at them. So......the coil on top would have blue terminal on 1 side and the bottom one would be the opposite since the terminals are reversed when turning them upside down.
    Photos 5 & 6 you will notice are different and ARE CORRECT (note colored terminals are opposite on each coil).

    In this photo, you can see that if the spark plug cables are facing UP on the coil, that the positive lead is on the LEFT side of the coil as you look at it. If you get a light you can see it marked here where I have the silver sharper arrows pointing to. To be sure I don't get them mixed up and to easily see them later after the build, I go ahead and use a black sharpie and mark the coils where the + and - are located.


    FFW Page 11. Ignore where it says NOT TO INSTALL THE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP COVER until later. I really don't think you can install it after the engine is mounted. I tried to get it OFF on the first build to adjust the fuel pump pressure and I couldn't. I could move it to the side enough to get to the fuel pump but could not get it out of there. That's why we have already set the pressure and installed the cover.

    Be sure and tighten all the screws on the intake manifold (and everywhere else for that matter). I have heard reports of some of these leaking after installation because they were loose from the factory.


    Fig. FF12. My engine came with the C81262-08 "links" already installed on the engine. I think they actually may be a different one because the screw holes are a little too small and you will probably have to drill out (with a #11 or #12 bit) the links installed on the engine where you mount the adel clamps to hold the wires on each side. They are too small for the AN3-3A and 5A bolts to go through. It's also probably easier to install the VP6002-024 (yellow) and VP6002-023 (Blue) Disconnect, Female connectors onto the ends of the ignition wires before running them through these holders.

    Also, on the right side you will need to loosen and rotate the small hose clamps above the links where you will run your wires as they will hit the wires.

    I go ahead and install the starter wire to the left side but the ones on the right I just run in the right place and go ahead and connect ALL the wires before putting the wires in the adel clamps. This way, you can pull all the slack out of the wires (from the front of the engine) through the clamps and fold the excess in the back of the engine with the other wire bundles.


    The "sensor wires" that will go on the top, outboard right side are the ignition pick up sensors. The EGT and CHT wires for both sides don't go into any of these clamps. From the WIRING CHART of mine it shows that GEA32A24TK; GEA34A24TK; GEA22A24TK and GEA24A24TK all go to cylinders #2 and #4 which are on the left side. If you notice, these are the even numbered wires going to the even number cylinders. Looking at the engine from the front Cylinder 1 is on the front, left; #2 is front, right; #3 is back left and #4 is back, right.


    Wire GEA08A24-2 will go to the Oil Temp Sensor we installed there in the oil filter adapter. You can connect either of the wires to either of the wires on the oil temp sensor. GEA09A24-3 wire will route around to the right side group of sensor wires and will go to the fuel flow transducer that we installed on top of the fuel servo. The WHITE/ORANGE goes to the RED on the Fuel Flow Transducer; WHITE goes to WHITE and WHITE/BLUE goes to the BLACK wire.

    That should account for all the wires coming through the firewall.



    I'm going to go back and copy from CHUCK & RYANS TIPS here as he did a great job of explaining this but do note the last photo is of the 340 engine and not the EX3 fi engine and note what I wrote above about paying attention to the positive & negative sides.


    I also did it just a bit different using the shrink tubing for the entire length instead of using spiral wrap. Here's how I did it:

    I put on (without crimping) the connector and then measured how long to cut the shrink tubing.



    From Chuck and Ryan's Tips


    Here are some thoughts on wiring the four coils.

    Of course the four cables were marked before the boot cowl was installed; Left and Right, A and B, respectively. If not, good luck tracing them down after the boot cowl and engine are in place.

    The shield (actually there are two layers of shield) is the negative connection. Here is how we separated it from the center conductor and made the connections.

    First, 2 ˝” of insulation was removed. I am partial to using an X-Acto knife rather than a wire stripper because I have better luck not nicking the shield underneath. I cut most of the way through longitudinally then pull the cover apart along the cut line. Then carefully cut cross wise to remove the cover. (If I were doing it again removing 3” of the insulation would be better).

    Second, the exposed wire is bent sharply just beyond the insulation cover. A pointed instrument is used to gently push the strands of the shield apart, after which the insulated conductor is pulled through the opening. The shield is not cut.

    Third, the shield is massaged back into shape and a length of heat shrink slid over the shield.

    Fourth, a larger diameter 1 ˝ length of heat shrink is slid over to hold it all in place. A half inch of insulation is removed from the center conductor.

    Fifth, the blue connector is crimped on the center insulator and the yellow connector is crimped on the shield. No solder! A short length of 3/16”spiral wrap is placed on the exposed center conductor.

    Finally the wires are plugged to the coils, careful to make sure the center conductor goes to the marked positive tab.


    Don't forget to put the 2 adel clamps on the fuel line and prop cable. These just connect to each other and don't go through the firewall and I can't find this callout in the new FWF Manual. Use an AN3-4A; AN960-10L; MS21919WDG8 (around fuel line) MS21919WDG5 (around the OUTSIDE prop cable); AN960-10L and AN363-1032 nut.



    First, looks to see if you have the little screws and washers that are SUPPOSE to come with the ignition boxes/wires. They are not in the kit totes or parts, but I guess are suppose to be with the sensors??? The last 2 kits I have not received Mitch.

    To remove the flywheel, first mark it like I showed earlier, then loosen the alternator and remove the belt from it and the flywheel will come off. This could probably gone unsaid but.....just in case......Be sure and cover the alternator to keep the metal pieces from going into it when you drill the hole for the bracket that goes in the alternator bracket. NOTE that the WDG4 adel clamp that it calls for was not included in the kit and in fact is the wrong number. A 4 is to big so they are changing it to a 3.......CALL MITCH!


    You see the little hole in the bracket and the drilled head in the bolt that goes into the engine at the top of the alternator bracket? Later, you need to safety wire that bolt head to that little hole. That's after we are done with the sensor installation and reinstall the flywheel, alternator and belt tight. I don't think that's specified anywhere but obvious.


    Since I don't have the screws for the sensors or the WDG3 clamp, will have to come back to this and finish later.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 05-20-2021 at 10:36 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

  4. #84
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Broken Arrow, OK

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    ENGINE (Cont)

    FFW, Page 33, FF 15. The reference to the star washer AN936-A10 to mount the Upper Throttle Support Bracket SK50372-003 is wrong. The A10 washer is a #10 which will not let the screw AN515-416R8 go through. The correct washer is AN936-A-416. There should be a small bag of 3 of them in the FFW kit (not in totes). These will go with the 3 screws here that will be used here and later for the baffles.

    To mount the lower bracket SK50372-001 , you will see the callout in FF16 with the AN3-5A bolt and AN960-10 washers. Note that the 1 of the parts they show it going through SP50363 is actually the ENGINE. So bolt head, AN960-10 washer, SK50372-001, the engine and then the other washer and nut. This mounts onto the mounting bracket that the coils are mounted to. You will see the 2 holes there pre-drilled. You will probably have to ream out the powder coat first.

    Also, they don't show the specific callout for the side of that piece where it mounts and it will be the same as the front (above listed).




    Find the white plastic wiring housing that came in your wiring kit that should have A09D20O already plugged into it. It's a short, orange loop wire with both ends in the housing. Next take A09C20O that we brought out the firewall (it should have a female spade connector already attached and is with the A08C10BK white wire that we brought through the firewall) and slide it into the open slot on the white, plastic connector then plug this connector into the back of the alternator. It will only go 1 way.

    Looking at the NOISE SUPPRESSOR, there are 2 wires. Mine had no numbers on it so they won't match the manual. Just take the one labeled ground and install the Noise Suppressor to the engine with this ground wire also attached to the mounting bolt. So one end goes onto one of the screws on the NOISE SUPPRESSOR and the other goes on the bolt mounting it.

    The other wire A08C10BK goes on the OTHER SCREW MOUNT of the NOISE SUPPRESSOR. (the same screw that has the un-numbered A08D10BK that came already installed on my noise suppressor)

    Then A08D10BK small ring connector also goes onto that same screw mount on the NOISE SUPPRESSOR (already installed and un-numbered on mine) as the A08C10BK wire and the other, larger ring connector goes to the screw connector on the ALTERNATOR.

    Don’t forget to put on a rubber boot (like I did in this photo!!)



    Schematics shown on Page 6 of the EXECUTIVE GLASS MANUAL.

    OIL PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT - (for Aerosport engines...Lycoming may not need this)

    If you go to DROPBOX and there is a folder called EX3 SETUP. I wrote this up after going over all the initial adjustments needed with the Cubcrafters man who does this for all the factory planes. We have already use part of this to adjust the ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP pressure and now I am going to go ahead and adjust the oil pressure. I guess the constant speed prop needs a little higher oil pressure all the time and also will need a higher RPM than standard when you do engine run-ups before take-off. Run-up with 2,000 rpms and not 1,700. The very first time you run the engine and get oil into the prop you will probably have to run it up to 2,200 or more. Be sure and pay attention to the rest of this file about servicing the prop "properly".

    For now we will screw in the oil pressure adjustment screw 2-1/2 turns. It the screw sticking out of the engine on the right side to the right of the oil filler tube. I mark the 5/8" nut first so I can count the turns and then use it to turn the screw/bolt in. Each turn is about 4 psi so we are increasing the oil pressure by about 10 psi.



    Probably don’t want to run the prop or throttle cables in yet until you get your baffles in. I have done it with the baffles installed but its much easier to run the cables through the baffles before securing them. Will have to drill the holes in the baffles to run the cables through and get the grommets in and the grommets are much easier to install in the baffles before installing them.

    It's also easier to install the oil cooler first into the back baffle piece using the info in the figures.

    FF21 on Page 54 of FFW MANUAL is the diagram for the throttle and prop cables. FF23 on Page 56 shows to drill the holes for the Prop and throttle holes in the baffles at 0.63" which is about a 5/8" step drill and install the MS35489-11 grommets into the holes. The 2 throttle cable holes (one in back and one in front baffle) are already drilled. Take the 2 nuts and washer off the cables and install the grommets in all 3 holes first. Then slide the 2 cables through the back piece (while holding it out, away from the engine and tilted a little for the throttle cable). Remember a little Armorall helps to slide easier.

    For the governor itself, I always put a little oil on new gaskets and both sides of the metal (governor and engine) as well for a good seal. To install the governor, you will probably have to rotate the gear on it a little at a time until you can get it to slide all the way in. On Page 42, FF19 note that the 4 nuts, star washers and washers that came on the cover plate on the engine will be used on the governor EXCEPT you won't use the 516 washer, only the A516 lock washer. You won't have enough threads exposed if you use the regular, flat washer too. Torque 18-20 FOOT lbs. You will need a claw-foot wrench to get in there sideways and torque.

    To install the bracket the manual says to use the "vendor supplied longer screws". These should be in a little ziplock inside the HARTZELL labeled plastic bag with another of the gaskets. You will reuse the washers on the shorter screws you take out.

    Also you have to “clock” the governor to get the cable to a work without hitting as described in the manual (by loosening the other screws just like the 3 you have to removed to install the bracket) until you test the cable and are sure it will let the arm move fully forward and back. If you go ahead and push the prop cable through the back baffle (that still isn't installed but just loose); install the governor and bracket leaving the 3 screws you replace with longer ones to mount the bracket with; install the hardware at the end of the prop cable so you can connect it to the arm on the governor temporarily (I just stick my allen wrench through the arm hole and the bearing rod end of the cable)........then you will notice that if you pull the prop lever in the cockpit all the way back to the full pitch setting, that the bearing rod end that is on the end of the cable and installed on the arm.......will hit the spring going around the governor.

    So.....what we are going to do is to just loosen the other 3 screws on the governor (the OTHER 3 screws just like the ones we installed the bracket with) and then just TWIST or ROTATE the whole plate there clockwise all the way (or almost), then tighten the screws back up and now check it and be sure that in the full aft position with the lever in the cockpit, that the governor hits it's stop (the stop on the BOTTOM) and be sure now that the Bearing Rod End doesn't contact the spring on the governor any longer.

    Push the prop lever in the cockpit to the full forward (fine pitch) setting and be sure that the arm bottoms out on the set screw on the governor and that the cable doesn't touch anything anywhere.

    ALSO, you can clock the arm itself if you have a large amount of adjustment needed. To do that you loosen but NOT REMOVE the nut, rotate the arm and then tighten the nut. Fine adjustment is made by clocking the plate as described above and big adjustments made by using the arm if you can't adjust it by just rotating the plate.

    (Here you can see it after I have adjusted or rotated the governor plate. You can see there is room under the bearing rod end so it isn't touching the spring any longer)

    (The bottom here you can see that it has bottomed out and is hitting the stop plate on the bottom. Good to go)

    Be sure and torque and safety wire the 6 screws before installing the cable end so you have room to work. Also be very careful and don't over torque these as they will strip out very easy.

    Also watch carefully for the fuel line that the bracket will most likely want to hit on the bottom. Rotate it until it's out of the way and spiral wrap.

    Note that just like we did on the throttle and prop cable mounting in the cockpit, that we need to add another star, lock washer MS35333-43 when we install the ends of the throttle and prop cable. There should now be one under each nut on the brackets. You can see this on FF21, Detail A.

    You secure the throttle cables as shown in the FF23 with the #12 and #6 adel clamps. The clip nut goes onto the back of the #12 clamp so you don't have a nut to have to try and hold.



    : Just 2 days ago on Dec 14th, Mitch uploaded a new DROPBOX FFW MANUAL. If you previously have downloaded this manual then do it again now with the changes. It isn’t finished but he added all the figures and pages that I refer to below regarding the baffles, etc. He hasn’t finished writing the information but did load the figures. Also note that once he does expand on the manual, my page numbers reference here will probably change so just look for the area in the manual where he discusses it when it does get changed.

    Mitch is in the process now of finishing up the manual on the baffles. There is a video in DROPBOX that goes over this process and their are now figures in FFW, Pages 44 & 45 (will probably change when he finishes manual).

    Before installing the baffles, the manifold pressure (MAP) fittings need to be installed in the engine. See FF22 currently on page 55 of the FFW manual. Use the Loctite 567 thread sealer like always and install the HDW-EA22R-0 into the engine and the AN844-4D Elbow. You will probably have to loosen the nut on the line below the fitting to get it installed.

    The hose will be the big the RM5593-001 called for which is also the same line used for the mechanical fuel pump overflow. Use a HDW-100-202 clamp on either end. I always cut the excess clamp material off and bend the end when done.

    There is some RM6000-002 line which will be used later in the header panels to connect the fuel line sight gauges so just stow it away for now.



    You can see how to lay out the carbon fiber baffle pieces per the diagram. Pretty simple except the back, right one is tricky. Notice it goes up pretty high in order to fit. If you lay the back piece in place first, you will see where it goes. On the Lycoming engine, I had to actually trim this piece just a bit around an engine bolt to let it come UP enough to fit properly.

    You will probably also notice that this bolt on the fuel line clamp is in the way so you will need to loosen and rotate it. You may even have to bend the fuel lines a bit to keep it from hitting the baffle and spiral wrap it. You can see in the photo below that the fuel line comes close to the baffle so I just removed the adel clamp that came on it from the factory and flipped it around to the opposite side so it had plenty of clearance.


    Last edited by Daveembry; 10-30-2020 at 09:24 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

  5. #85
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Broken Arrow, OK

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints


    CHT probes
    . I'm going to go ahead and install the CHT probes now and will do the EGT later, after installing the exhaust. They are the SP71328-005 part numbers and they just screw up into the cylinder head just below and inside of the bottom spark plug. I use a little of the anti-seize used on the spark plugs. Push the probe up into the hole until it hits and then you will have to hold the nut and push it up to get it started.

    #2 is tight coming in around the intake pipe but it works if you first push the nut up and hold it and then insert it into the hole. Cut the ends of all the screw in connectors that came with it. Then get some of the "Overlap Connectors" SP55025-001 from Mitch (if he hasn't added them to the kit yet) to connect them to the G3X wires. These wires just won't solder together for some reason and these connectors work great! You'll need at least 16 of them. I call them "barrel" connectors because they are round like barrels and you just loosen the set screw in the center, insert the 2 wires and tighten it up. I think the fuel transducer actually came with 3 of these and a little allen wrench to use (even though I soldered those connections with a solder sleeve). It doesn’t matter which wires attach to each other but I just put red to red and yellow to yellow.


    Slide the fiberglass cover up over the wires and make the connection, then slide it down over the connections and secure with the tie wraps on each end that they provide.


    Use the WIRING CHART I made to hook up the #1 (front left looking from in front of engine) with GEA21A24TK; #3 (back left) with GEA23A24TK; #2 with GEA22A24TK; #4 with GEA24A24TK. (Note how they are numbered by cylinder number?).


    The videos in Dropbox are good for this. There are 4 short ones for the baffles and 1 long one that is very good, for the baffle seals. There are good figures now in the FFW MANUAL for all these.

    Note that if you have already run your throttle and prop cables through the firewall, then be sure and don't connect them until after you have first run the cables through the baffles. What I do is to go ahead and drill out the 1 additional hole needed for the prop cable in the aft baffle. See FF 27 for details. It says to drill out 3 holes but you will find that the aft baffle already has the one drilled for the throttle cable and the front, left baffle also already is drilled out for the throttle cable. I don't know why they didn't go ahead and drill out the hole for the prop as well in the aft one. But drill it out according to the figure (0.63" hole) and then install all 3 grommets. These are the MS35489-11 that should be in a ziplock with the FFW kit.

    So the first thing I do is mount the oil cooler on the rear baffle (see below in this post for installation of the oil cooler), drill the 1 extra hole into the rear baffle and install the grommets. Then use some Armorall in the grommets and put some along the throttle and prop cables and then just push the cables through those holes as you set the aft baffle onto the engine. In other words, just slide the baffle down along the cables so that the cables are coming through on top of the engine.

    Then you can take the front, left baffle piece where the hole is for the throttle cable hole is and do the same of threading the throttle cable into the hole when you slide that baffle piece in place.

    Here are a couple of additional things kind of hard to find.....

    - The screws used to joint the baffles together are the AN526C632R6 for the sections where it's baffle to baffle and AN526C632R7 in the corners where the 2 rubber baffle seals are on top of each other (front 2 corners). This is on the figure (not numbered) on FFW, Page 44 under the NOTES. (except it didn't list the R7 to be used on the seal joints....that I found in the video).

    Here is the order I installed them from the normal “pilot’s view” perspective:
    - Forward (front) right
    - 2 right side baffles under valve covers
    - 1 forward, left side baffles under valve covers
    - Forward (front) left
    - Left aft corner
    - Left, aft baffle under valve cover
    - Aft right side corner
    - aft piece that oil cooler installs on.
    - front, center piece
    - NEXT install the screws connecting the baffles per FF22 Page 46.
    - Install baffle seals per video

    NOTE: I found some BLACK RTV which is much nicer than the red. It's made by JB WELD. ack+jb+weld&qid=1620929190&sprefix=black+JB%2Caps% 2C190&sr=8-5


    Note #14 on FWF Manual, Page 44. We need to drill some holes and safety wire under the engine tying the ends of the baffles under the cylinders to the metal baffle pieces under each cylinder. Embedded in the carbon fiber baffle at the very ends of these baffles you will see the outline of a rod that is there. We will drill a 0.04" hole (#60 bit) above the rod in each baffle and then put safety wire through it and connect the 4 corner baffles (front and back) just tight enough to take the slack out and bring them up against the cylinder fins.

    In the photos here I used a silver sharpie to draw the rods in these carbon fiber, front baffles. In the EX3 they tie into a goldish colored, metal baffle plates that are already installed between the 2 cylinders on each side. There is a pre-drilled hole in each of these where you can run the safety wire through. This is the same in 4 places.....2 on each side.....front and back baffles.

    I would at least drill the holes and get the safety wire started on this step before installing the front and rear corner baffle seals before installing them as it’s much easier to get to now. After installing them, you can twist the safety wire tight after installing. Just run some .032" safety wire through the gold metal pieces (in the pre-drilled hole) and as you put the corner baffle pieces up in place, before installing completely, get the wire you have on the engine already ....started into the holes you drilled in the baffles above the reinforcement pieces. Then install the pieces and simply grab both ends of the wires and twist them until snug.

    I first installed the 1 front right piece (SK52004-001) where the intake of the air is because they have screws that go to the engine and the front right one (as looking from the cockpit) has to go on before the side piece can go on. Hardware for the 1 side screw is AN515-416R8; AN936-A416 and AN960-416L. (See below for the 2 big screws that go into the engine.) Use a hole locator to locate and drill the 1 hole with a 1/4" bit and install the screw and washers.


    The front left side (SK52011-001) will not be installed on the outside until you get the front, side baffle piece (SK52002-001) under the valve cover on first because you will see that it has to sit flush with that side piece. After that piece is in, then make the front piece sit flush and drill and install that screw (AN515-1024R8; AN936-A10 & AN960-10L) into the engine from the front .


    The big bolts with the drilled heads that go into the sides of the 2 front pieces are MS20074-06-06 with an AN936-A-616 lock washer and AN960-616L flat washer. They need to be safety wired together.

    Next put the back right (pilot LEFT) corner in because it has a screw (AN515-416R8; AN936-A418 and AN960-416L) that has to go into the engine first.

    Next the side pieces screw in under the valve covers. Enlarge the holes plenty big so you can move it around to fit and then be sure and put 2 of the AN960-416 washers between the carbon fiber baffle and the valve cover to get it away. File between the 2 pieces on the valve covers to make them fit flush together.

    When you install the back baffle piece, Mitch said that we need to be sure it isn't sticking too far UP towards the top of the cowl in the center or it could be too high and actually touch the cowling. I like to place the piece on the engine in the back with black RTV under it and then clamp it and I put a few 5 lb weight bags to hold it down.


    Then the distance between the very ridge top of the engine where the 2 halves come together to the bottom of the baffle in the front should be no more than about 1/2" which would give you about 3.2" from that same ridge up to the top of the center of the baffle (where it would be the highest point that would touch the cowl.)





    Just setting mine flush on the engine in the back with the weight bags and clamps made it perfect. Just check it and adjust it up or down a bit before securing it to the back, corner baffles.

    Install the oil cooler. FFW Page 52(for now) is the figure. Install the AN816-8D fittings into the oil cooler with thread sealer 567. Drill out and deburr the holes to a #9 bit and install cooler into the back baffle. I also put a heavy bead of RED RTV around the outside perimeter of where the oil cooler will sit before setting it in place and screwing it in which will make a very nice, neat and very efficient way of sealing it. The EX3 has not had any issues with cooling and I'm hearing some people aren't even installing the RTV around the baffles.

    (You can see the red rtv under the oil cooler but I found some BLACK now that I use)

    Install the Ground wire per the drawing currently on Page 50 using AN4-4A bolt; SC51200-003 ground wire; AN416L washer and AN363-428 lock nut. Be sure and clean the powder coat off the tab it attaches to off the engine mount. I just used the closest accessory case nut to attach it to (after also cleaning the powder coat off).


    Install 8" of hose RM5598-001 onto the end of the "sniffle valve" coming off the intake manifold. It looks like the 1/4" hose won't fit over the 3/8" fitting.......but it will. Just keep pushing and twisting.



    The video is about as good as it gets for this, so just follow it. Note that I did not have enough of the AN960-6L washers so check yours and call Mitch. Probably about 50 short. There are 2 for each screw and 1 for each rivet.

    NOTE: As stated in the FWF Manual notes, it is easier to install the cowl first and then come back and install these seals after you have fitted the cowl. The reason is that the seals push UP on the cowl, so I always put lots of weights on top of the cowl to hold it down. If you wait and don't install the seals until after fitting the cowl, you won't have to fight that.

    Also, you notice in the video that there are the longer rivets used on the side seals because they are thicker with the reinforcement inside the rubber to make them stiffer. In the video, they say they are just the side ones like this but on the ones I got, the front ones were also cut out of the thicker ones, so you have to use the longer rivets there too.

    Here are some notes I took from the video:

    - Baffle seals are XC-52100-BX09 for the 2 front ones: BX07 for the front crossover (installing it with the narrow end on the LEFT SIDE); BX01 for BX03 right side; BX05 left side and BX01 is the REAR CROSSOVER (installed with the LONGER end from the first "hump" to the end...on the LEFT side.)

    - Space rivets 2" apart. Use screws through the seals on both sides of the front, round seals.

    - Rivets are HDW-09-18900 for all except under the valve covers where the longer HDW-lFl14-001 are used and installed from the bottom. Use an AN960-6L washer on the back of each rivet.

    - Drill holes with a .30 bit through baffles and use leather punch on holes you make in the rubber with an awl.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 05-17-2021 at 02:06 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

  6. #86
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Yakima, WA

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Your enthusiasm and tremendous efforts to post tips is being appreciated by many. With the great popularity the EX-3 is seeing, we strive to continue to better our build data and builder resources. You have certainly been a great ambassador on that mission.
    My thanks,
    Patrick Horgan
    CubCrafters | Yakima WA

  7. #87
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Broken Arrow, OK

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Horgan View Post
    Your enthusiasm and tremendous efforts to post tips is being appreciated by many. With the great popularity the EX-3 is seeing, we strive to continue to better our build data and builder resources. You have certainly been a great ambassador on that mission.
    My thanks,
    Thanks Pat. Glad I can help out. I know how stressed and apprehensive I was on my first build and appreciated all the good forum posts previous builders had posted.

    The stress and apprehensiveness for me came from:

    1. Will the kit really be complete, correct, within good tolerances and specifications and support and ....
    2. Will I have the ability with no previous A&P or building experience to actually do this correctly?
    3. When I reach the end will it really all come together and work?

    When reaching the end, (and actually all throughout) I was amazed at how perfectly everything in the kit worked. The tolerances and quality control/assurance was amazing. It really did come together and work in the end and I really was able to do it.

    When you get past this stress and apprehensiveness, it is a blast.

    Seemed a waste to not use the experience and confidence I’ve gained with having almost finished my 3rd kit (and 4th shipping next month) so I keep building and flying and trying to help out other builders best as I can and maybe relieve any stress and anxiety they have. Thinking about building one?.......jump on in......the waters great! 😜
    Last edited by Daveembry; 12-18-2018 at 07:44 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

  8. #88
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Broken Arrow, OK

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints


    When installing the big white starter wire, you will have to cut it to length and then put on a VP6001-069 Terminal Ring which was not in my kit so check to see if you don't have it and if know the Mitch.


    Page 55 of FINISH MANUAL (Dropbox as always) Jumping around a little here but I"m waiting on some parts so thought I'd do what I can so will go ahead and install the side door since it's all painted now. Like other fabric areas that have holes, I first located (by feel and also by using the hinge as a guide) the holes and punched through with an awl, then used the soldering iron to burn out a nice hole.



    Figure FN14 calls for using 12 of the AN507C832R7 screws and there is only 1 shipped in the totes, so will need to get Mitch to ship you some if you don't have any either or you can use the 12 - AN507C832R8's that are in the totes like I am going to do.

    After installing the door, be sure and use one of the VP2021-001 Bumper, Polyurethane - Clear bumpers where the door hits the boot cowl so you don't damage your paint.





    The 2 sensors we mounted on either side of the engine, behind the flywheel should come with 2 screws with star lockwashers and a flat washer in the sensors from the factory. There have been some that have had them removed (like all mine) and they are not there and not in the kit, so check your sensors and if there are not already 2 screws started in each sensor, then CALL MITCH and get some coming. I cover the final installation and adjustment in a later post. You can go ahead and adjust them now if you like. Just go ahead to the later post to see how I do it.

    Here you can see the pilot RIGHT side. Note that it goes on the TOP side of the bracket (screw heads on bottom) and the LEFT side will be the opposite.



    The FWF MANUAL Page 36. It says you need to move the arm a notch but that may not be true. My arm was points straight towards the front of the aircraft, so that wouldn't work. Note the photos here showing about where the arm is in the UP(full lean) and DOWN (full rich) positions and loosen the lock nut that holds the arm and rotate it either direction until it works. The main thing is that it doesn't hit the cowl later when you install it, when in the full DOWN position but also be sure it isn't angled up so high that there isn't enough leverage to easily have the cable move in down from the full UP position (due to the angle).

    You will also have to drill out the hole in the throttle arm using a .25 bit which is shown on the diagram notes.

    NOTE that the cable goes through 101917-01 part at this mixture arm. You will tighten the castle nut on the other side of it enough so that it is down far enough on that screw to both smash the wire into the 101916-01 part that goes into the arm and get the castle nut to where you can install the cotter pin. Be sure that when you are done that this piece will actually swivel or turn in the arm hole when you move the mixture cable in and out. If you don't have that piece loose enough to actually swivel around when you move the mixture cable from rich to lean.....the cable will bend instead of rotating and working right.

    I take a file and file off the backside of the arm where I drilled to be sure it's really smooth (that is HARD material and just using a regular tool to deburr doesn't work too well). Usually I tighten it a good bit in and then back that nut off to be sure it will swivel easily and not kink up the cable end. I also put just a spot of white grease on that fitting.

    ALSO......note that you first need to install 2 adel clamps on the engine mount and run the mixture cable through it. NOWHERE does it tell you this but I first just saw it on photos. Look on PAGE 10 of the FFW MANUAL and the Fig FF6 in the center is SECTION C-C. You will see where an arrow is pointing to 2 adel clamps that are installed on one of the mount pieces on the right side of the engine in front of where the fuel pump is.

    You need to route the cable through these clamps before proceeding with cutting and installing it onto the servo.




    Note that you won't install this or the prop cable until AFTER you install the baffles.

    Also pay attention to the routing of the cable as it goes ABOVE cylinder #4 tubes and UNDER the tubes on cylinder #2 before going into the baffle. It's much easier to run the cable through the baffle as you install the baffle. Notice there are 2 sets of adel clamps with clipnuts on the back of them that hold the throttle cable in place over these 2 cylinders. It's easier to install them before you make the big downward bend through the baffle to the fuel servo. Install them first.

    On the Dec, 2020 Dropbox FWF manual, FF32,
    Detail B, I had to add an AN960-10 under the castle nut because it needed more room to make the hole for the cotter pin work. Actually there is an error there. It shows the wrong order of parts because they show the throttle adapter and throttle arm switched. The throttle adapter goes on, then the throttle arm itself, then the nut and cotter pin. The callout has the adapter and throttle arm switched and that won't work. There also needs to be washers added to make the castle nut fit so the cotter pin can go through. I did mine with the bolt; 960-10 washer; bearing rod end; 960-10 washer; throttle adapter; throttle arm; 960-10; 960-10L; nut; cotter pin. This works.

    You will have to remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the throttle body arm as well and move it around to make it so it's like these photos. Be sure and install a cotter pin into this castellated nut once you've moved the throttle arm.


    Move your throttle lever almost all the way forward (I stop it about 1/4" or so before it's full forward in the cockpit) and then make sure the arm moves around so that it's at it's stop and the same when you pull it back so that the idle screw (has a spring on it) hits it's stop. Make sure it's at a good enough angle at idle (full aft on throttle lever) so it's doesn't bind when you go to move it forward, so it's slides forward easily.

    You see the linkage with the knurled knob in the center? Look closely and you will see a big "R" and an arrow pointing downward on it. I take a sharpie and write it bigger. This is the mixture screw and later before our first flight, we are going to have to adjust it first and then the idle and this lets me remember which way to move it.

    (Move the knurled knob downward to enrichen the mixture)

    (Idle Screw)

    Tighten all the nuts in the cockpit for the prop and throttle and torque seal.


    Attachment 9099


    Be sure and use some RTV to seal the holes where all the wires and cables come through the firewall. If you don't, all that hot air will be coming into the cockpit and get a bit warm in the summer! I used the gray 3M Fire Block and it later dried up, cracked and pieces fell out and all that hot air was coming in. I took it out and replaced it with the regular red rtv. I guess it doesn't look quite as good but works lots better.


    See FF6 in the FWF manual for the detail on installing a clamp on the side door in the tunnel to hold the fuel pump drain hose. It's the same hose used in the manifold pressure line.


    FWF Page 60, Detail A. Mount the pipes to the engine and leave the nuts loose until you connect both sides to the collector pipe at the bottom. Leave the oil breather hose (that goes on the little pipe in the center of the collector) off until you have the collector on. I put a very light coat of white grease on the inside so they will slide in better. Get a good pair of gloves to push on the bottom of the collector and push, pull, twist, tilt, cuss......... until you can get the springs back onto the side bolts and nuts started, and then you can tighten them up all the way with a wrench.

    Remember Armorall to install the breather hose onto the tube when done along with the clamp.

    You can see you torque to 90 in. lbs. (which seems too loose but that's what they say).

    Last edited by Daveembry; 05-21-2021 at 03:28 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

  9. #89
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Broken Arrow, OK

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints


    Use the MS35842-16 hose clamps to hold the heat muffs in place. On the pilots RIGHT side, the piece that is on the forward side with the hole facing inside and down is SK57310-004. It fits on the INSIDE of SK57310-002. The pieces go on the outside of the heat muff/exhaust pipe with the tabs on the outside.

    There is no drawing in the manual now that shows this but you can see how it looks on FWF Page 51 shows the hoses and clamps. The inside, bottom of these will go to the NACA duct on the piece on the bottom of the cowl later as does the alternate air hose and intake hose.



    Install SK53026-001 Pickup Weldment, Alternate Air as show here. This will later be used to attach a piece of scat hose to the air inlet of the cowl when we install it at the very end. In the photo below, the latest kit I got this had changed so this piece went OVER the attach point on the exhaust pipe so the spring would be stuff in between the 2 ends on the pipe first and then slide this piece over and on the outside of these places and push the bolt through. The photo below shows the spring inside the piece but it would not be there but inside the other attach point on the pipes if you have this one.

    (Note the which direction the angle is going. It will only work this way.)


    NOTE: When you locate the probes, be sure you can access the spark plugs with your spark plug socket and torque wrench. Ideally located, the egt gauges will be directly in line with the end of the spark plug and block a socket.

    Refer to the instruction with the probes. They say a minimum of 2" from the exhaust flange BUT.... if you look at the Exec. Glass Manual on Page 39, it says "1.5 - 2". I used 1.60 from the bottom of the exhaust flange to the probe itself and if you pay attention and clock it outward enough, you can get your spark plug out OK.

    So figure out which measurement you want to go with, then looking at the bends in the pipe at #1 cylinder I make a sharpie mark 1.5" -2" below the bottom of the cylinder exhaust port. Then I use one of the probes to see how the angle works best. You want it tilted back aft and not stick out to the side where it might hit the cowl and mark that place so X marks the drill spot. The most important thing is to be a consistent with the distance on each cylinder so they will measure the correct temps from cylinder to cylinder.



    Drill with a #31 or #32 (something smaller than a #30) and then finish with a #30. When you put the probe into the hole, look closely and you will see that the shoulder of the probe next to the clamp probably won't go flush into the hole. Tighten the clamp and then try and push it in by wiggling and pushing and tightening clamp. If it won't go flush, I take a small block of wood and put the edge on the clamp right by the probe end and persuade it a little until it pops in flush. Tighten the clamp and cut excess.


    Leave a little "finger sizes" loop in the wire, slide the fiberglass insulator over it after you connect with the "barrel connectors" just like CHT probes were done.

    GEA31A24TK is cylinder #1 (pilot front right)
    GEA32A24TK is cylinder #2 (pilot front left)
    GEA33A24TK is cylinder #3 (pilot front right)
    GEA34A24TK is cylinder #4 the only one left!


    This is if you didn't already do this back in post #80. If you didn't do it'll wish you did! If you did pre-drill and install the safety wire then you can just pull it all together now.

    Note #14 on FWF Manual, Page 44. We need to drill some holes and safety wire under the engine tying the ends of the baffles under the cylinders together. Embedded in the carbon fiber baffle at the very ends of these baffles you will see the outline of a rod that is there. We will drill a 0.04" hole (#60 bit) above the rod in each baffle and then put safety wire through it and connect the 2 baffles (front and back) together just tight enough to take the slack out and bring them up against the cylinder fins.

    In the photos here I used a silver sharpie to draw the rods in these carbon fiber, front baffles. In the EX3 they tie into a goldish colored, metal baffle plates that are already installed between the 2 cylinders on each side. There is a pre-drilled hole in each of these where you can run the safety wire through. This is the same in 4 places.....2 on each side.....front and back baffles.






    Before you mount the flywheel up, be sure you have safety wired the 4 big bolts going into the engine from the baffles.

    Mount the flywheel back up with your mark on the flywheel and the one you put on the engine flange before you removed it. I always just put 1 mark.....not sure why they needed 3 in the video? Did I miss something?

    Put a couple bolts in with the plastic space (the ones that the engine came mounted in the crate works good) and after tensioning the belt; snug up and then tighten the alternator bolts (3.....the one at the brace that 1 side of the alt slides on; the upper end of that brace where it attaches to the engine and safety wire it to the brace now; and the one on the other side of the alt).

    The RIGHT sensor goes on the PILOT right side and LEFT on PILOT left side.

    The little screws I finally got from Mitch that go into the sensors have a 7/64th allen head. Tighten the screws down but not too tight so that you can't move the sensor back and forth. Do this before you mount the fly wheel of course.

    Go get your "feeler gauges" out. You know......if you are old enough....we use to have to use these to set the "points" in our coil in our first cars. The gap between the front of the sensor and the flywheel is suppose to be between .030 and .060, so get your gauges out and find one or a combo of them to equal something between these values.

    Here I have taken a .030 and a .015 and taped them together and then put a bend in them so I can hold them down when I go to the right side sensor. This will be me a gap of .045 which is in the middle of the range.


    For the sensor I found that it's easiest done by adjusting the sensors BEFORE installing the baffles. Then you can simply rotate the flywheel as needed to come in from the side of it with the feeler gauges. I then hold the feeler gauges in place and then with my other hand, reach a finger in and push the sensor up against it and hold it there in place while you then let go of the feeler gauge and grab your long allen wrench and snug up both screws while it's held in position. You can do both sides and then remove the flywheel and you can then tighten it tighter.

    The screws provided do not have holes in them to install the safety wire as they call for so I don't use it.



    You can also use a regular allen wrench that is long to tighten up. Here on is a good one that is long enough (6") and has a t-handle

    That pretty much wraps up the firewall forward. We still need to go inside the cockpit and attach the cable to the alternate heat box inside that diverts the heat to either the defroster or rear heat (or some of each) and connect the scat hose.

    Here is an excerpt from the Lightspeed Ignition manual regarding routing their cables.

    *Do not route the input wires from the sensors (DC Mini Sensor, Hall Effect Module or Direct Crank Sensor) near the output wires (RG-400 primary ignition wires) or the high-tension leads going to the spark plugs.
    A ˝” or greater separation is recommended to avoid electronic interference.

    *The RG-400 (coax) primary ignition wires connecting the ignition coils to the Plasma CD module can all be routed together and in close proximity to other high power wires (starter cable, alternator cable…).

    The shielded cable from the triggering mechanism is a “sensor” wire; it can be routed together with other low-voltage “sensor” wires. All “sensor” wires should be well separated from high power wires.

    Now I go all over the engine putting in tie wraps and standoffs where needed. Be sure all the wires are bundles and will not vibrate against anything. Install the spiral wrap anywhere contact could be made on all wires or cables. Check out all the fuel spider lines to be sure it isn't rubbing baffles or prop/throttle cables, etc. Double check all connections that they are torqued and torque seal applied. Double check all the cable connections and full range of operation again and that all the castle nuts have cotter keys installed; that the spark plug cables are secure and completely attached to the plugs as well as the coils and that the ignition wires to the coils are correctly connected and secure. Take 100 photos of everything far off and close up for your files.

    I take my leave blower and blow all over the engine one last time to get all the drilling materials, etc. out.

    The last thing I do as I always do when I'm finished with a section is to go back into Dropbox and flip through the manual again page by page being sure I haven't missed anything. Read every figure and notes again and just be sure.

    Next we'll install the prop and cowl.

    Last edited by Daveembry; 05-23-2021 at 04:08 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

  10. #90
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Broken Arrow, OK

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints


    I've attached the drawing for the prop installation since it isn't in a manual anywhere at this time.

    Looking at the diagrams on the left side you see where they write in NOTE 3 to be sure the o-ring is installed. It is this black o-ring in the back of the prop hub that should already be installed.


    On the front of the prop you will notice this screw sticking out and inside the screw is another screw with an allen head and a lock nut over the big screw. This will later be used per the EX3 SETUP BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT file in Dropbox. It sets the maximum rpm.


    Next we need to install the back of the spinner bulkhead onto the back of the prop hub. See NOTE 2 where is says to be sure and not remove the bolts from the hub.....we will just remove the 4 lock nuts on the back of the hub and mount the spinner bulkhead onto it and then torque to 20-22 ft. lbs

    Note for future reference when fitting the cowl, that the holes that are pre-cut in the front of each half of the cowl pieces that go around the engine just behind the bulkhead, will probably need to be widened (or cut out MORE) so that when the prop bulkhead rotates, it will let these 4 nuts clear the 2 cowl parts without touching. If you don't, the bolt end with the nut on it, may run on the cowl a bit when pressurized (even though you have clearance statically now). So cut those holes (1/2 hole in each half of the cowl) out bigger so that the bolts/nuts are clear.

    Be sure you are putting the spinner bulkhead on in the correct direction! (Ask me why I NOW pay special attention to this!). The solid side of the bulk should be on the aft side of the hub (it’s also the widest part of the bulkhead).

    Note that this last prop I got came from the factory with the spacer next to the hub and only 1 washer and it was between the spacer and the nut. According to the diagram in the upper right corner, it shows that the washer should be between the prop hub and the spacer and then install the spinner bulkhead and then add more washers as needed to get the 1-3 exposed threads after the lock nut is on. The washer is an AN960-616 and no more came with it but there are some in the totes. So I added 2 washers under the nut. 1 AN960-616 and 1 AN960-606L between the spinner hub and the nut and it worked fine.

    (This is the way it SHOULD be installed with the washer next to the hub between it and the spacer)

    (This side I added the 1 washer between the spinner bulkhead and the nut.)

    Now, before we mount the prop, you need to notice that the back of the prop hub that will mount against the flywheel has 1 area at the base of 1 of the screws that is different from the other 5. 5 of the 6 screws has an inset area in the flange at the base of the screws about o.333" but 1 does not; it is flush around the base.


    Now, look at the flywheel holes and the engine flange behind it coming up through the flywheel where the prop bolts will mount. Notice there are 2 of the holes (on either side in this photo) that are not quite coming up flush with the flywheel and the other 4 actually come out through the flywheel about 0.14:" So to make the prop fit flush we need to be sure that the 1 bolt on the prop that does NOT have the inset area is going into 1 of the 2 LOWER area holes in the flywheel. If you don't notice this and don't luck out into getting the prop started in the right position, you will get to spend 30 minutes hand tightening these screws and then noticing that 1 won't go all the way you can spend 30 minutes taking them all back out and then starting over. Ask me how I know!!!! (1st EX3).


    When you are screwing in the bolts you will notice you can only go so far on each one because the head of the bolt will actually go up against the prop hub if that bolt needs to go in further, so when you screw them in, keep moving around to different bolts and never put any pressure or torque on any of them. If you do, you are probably getting it cocked. If you keep an eye on the bolt heads you will notice a gap here where the red pen is pointing in the photo below........on the side closest to the flywheel where the washer is. Go around and look for the bolts with a gap here and then tighten it up a little until the gap is gone and then go on around to the next one. You thought I was kidding it took 30 minutes!

    (Sorry, the camera would just not auto focus down in there)

    Go around and get them as tight as you can with your 3/4" wrench and then we have to torque them in sequence to 60-70 ft. lbs. You will need a crows foot attachment for your torque wrench to make it work. Here is the one I used:


    When using an attachment to a torque wrench that changes the distance from the handle to the bolt you are torquing, that distance change will affect the torque measurement of the wrench so you have to adjust the torque you use. When using any torque wrench at any time, note that you should be applying pressure from the center of then handle and not by holding onto the end or up forward of the handle because if you do, it will not be the correct torque. The tool is calibrated to measure torque if you are applying force in the center of the area of the handle.

    In this photo you can see that my crows foot attachment moves the center of the bolt head about 1.3" further from the handle. This is a little short but I can make it work. If you have to buy one, get an extension an inch or so longer.


    Here is a calculator I used to convert what setting I actually needed at the wrench to make it equal the correct torque. I'm wanting to get it around the middle of the torque range so 65 ft. lbs would require 59 ft lbs for mine since the normal length from the center of my handle to the center of the regular socket is 13.0" and my extension is 1.3". So setting my wrench at 59 ft.. lbs with the crows foot would give me the 65 ft lbs at the bolt. So the further away you extend it, the less the torque setting is on the wrench. Extending my wrench just 1.3" reduced the setting on the wrench by 6 ft. lbs.

    Torque the bolts according to the pattern shown in the figure and safety wire in pairs with the MS20995C32 which is .032" safety wire.

    I like to go ahead and use a sharpie and mark the bolt pattern on the hub just so as I turn the prop around and torque I know I'm at the right bolt. As normal, torque about half the torque the first time around and then come back and do the final torque.


    Safety wiring can be challenging for the bolt heads that end up with 1 end going straight down into the hub. I take a very small screwdriver and put the wire in from the top and where it sticks out and hits the hub at the bottom, give the end a little push with the screwdriver to get it bent over away from the hub......then push another little bit down on the safety wire and then bend it over again with the screwdriver until I can grab the end of the wire with a set of hemostats. Then I can just give it a short pull to bend it (instead of having to use the screwdriver now) and then push a little more down in.........until I have enough through the bolt. Slow going but it will work.


    Yeah.....looking like an airplane now with the prop on. Don't install the spinner until after the 1st hour of flight. I'll explain later when we get ready to fly.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Daveembry; 05-24-2021 at 12:02 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

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