Extended Baggage - Tips and Tricks

[David H]

Here are a few tips and tricks on the Carbon Cub extended baggage.

I wanted to add rudder cable covers, a liner of some sort and a fishing pole holder that extends toward the tail from the back wall of the extended baggage area, more hold downs and some lighting. This is what I ended up with:

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I will break down the several projects represented here in separate posts due to the limitation of number of photographs allowed per post.

David

[David H]

Rudder cable covers:

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This was not that easy.

There was a big effort on this almost two years ago.

Mathew Layton at Lemac Aviation molded some carbon fiber covers but was not happy with the fit against the wall of the extended baggage (EB). The walls are NOT flat and thus require custom fitting. I spoke with Matt and at this point the rudder cable cover project is on hold for the foreseeable future as they are putting their efforts elsewhere (ADSB installs, etc.) See:

http://www.cubcraftersforums.com/sho...r+cable+covers

Well, we are builders and not afraid of fabricating a bit so… I used 0.016 aluminum and made some.

I installed the back and the floor sections (you can apply fabric to those sections at this time if you wish) and then installed the walls.

I formed a U shape with the diameter of ~ 1.5”. Holding the “U” against a wall (Left and Right are slightly different) in the approximate final location, I scribed a line on the top and bottom of the “U” ½” from the wall. Cut to these lines and check the fit. Then I scribed from the cut edges the distance that would allow me to make many cuts to form ½” wide tabs that get bent in 90 degrees and allow the cover to be the correct distance away from the wall. I want to have the cover extend away from the wall to allow some room from the fairlead in the back baggage wall and the fairlead attached to the forward part of the EB wall. I used a string line pulled taught and held toward the center of the airplane to assure clearance for the cable (see pictures below).
Position the covers and trim cut outs for the front fairlead supports. On the left side, cut out for the dogleg member. To make this easier, I made a long piece from the left back wall to the fairlead support and a separate small piece forward of this. The right side I did as one piece.
Drill #40 holes from the outside through the wall in through the tabs of the covers, cleco as you go. Remove, deburr, reinstall with clecos. Rivet. I used the same pull rivets called out for attaching the EB walls and floor (HDW-AD32BS)

I’m very happy with how they turned out, and I feel it was well worth the effort.

Cost = $0 (As I purchased the right wing light option, I had a leftover leading edge skin)

Weight = 3 1/4oz each
Total weight for both covers 6 1/2oz.

Hope this is helpful,

David






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[David H]

Lining:

There are several options for lining.

A popular option is nothing. Just leave the aluminum shiny and smooth as it comes.
Pickup truck spray on bedliner is another. You can do a search for this or just go to the excellent Chuck and Ryan’s Build Tips page two, start with entry #16.

http://www.cubcraftersforums.com/sho...ild-Tips/page2

I wanted to do a lightweight fabric lining to reduce noise, be less slippery than bare aluminum and look good. After quite a bit of snooping around I chose an automotive fabric from:

www.perfectfit.com

The fabric is called Marathon, I chose the color Grey Heather :

Marathon is a 100% polyolefin fabric.
54" Wide.
Weight - 16 oz / lineal yard
Teflon Finish
High Ultraviolet (UV) Yarn
Every Marathon yarn color contains extra UV stabilizer so that it will perform
specifically in applications such as cars and transportation.
Meets Flammability Test Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 302 (MVSS 302)

On the recommendation of a perfectfit representative, I ordered from them an excellent spray adhesive:

DAP® Weldwood® High Strength Spray Adhesive
	DAP® Weldwood® High Strength Spray Adhesive web formula is a high-strength, high-temperature resistant formulation that bonds wood, metal and plastic. It Has a long open time and a web spray pattern. VOC compliant with all current regulations

This is fantastic for our application. Spray on the aluminum and the back of the fabric. Wait 5 minutes. The surface is then dry to the touch but adheres to itself beautifully.


Here is how I did it:

Cut the fabric oversize for the piece you are applying. I first did the back wall and floor with one long piece and this worked out great. It eliminated a very visible seam at the bottom of the back wall. You will need an assistant for this one. Mask off as if you were painting. Apply the spray adhesive to both surfaces as per the directions of the can. Then while your assistant keeps pulling the forward edge of the fabric, pull what will be the top of the rear wall through under the dogleg. When you have a good alignment, press the fabric against the top of the rear wall and then smooth it down and out from there. Have your friendly assistant keep the fabric elevated above the floor as you smooth down and in to the back wall/floor junction.

I used a couple of plastic hotel room keys as smoothers. I doubled up two of them to get a bit more stiffness. You hands will be glad you used these as the fabric is abrasive and wore down the plastic cards quite a bit by the time I was done.
Remember that pack of 100 single edge razor blades you bought when you were tooling up for the build? Use up a bunch of them. As you press the fabric in to the corners with the plastic cards, cut in to the corner with a single edge razor blade. They will dull fairly quickly and you don’t want ragged cuts so get a new one as needed (I used a dozen or so by the time I was done.)
Happy? Good, now do the sides in the same manner. You now have a classy extended baggage compartment!


Cost of fabric (I ordered 5 yards so I would have plenty – you might be able to get away with 4 yards if you do the back and floor as separate pieces) + adhesive + shipping =
$85.49


Weight of fabric pieces
Back and floor 12 oz
Right 5 5/8oz
Left 8 1/4oz
Total = 25 7/8oz = 1lb 9 7/8 oz


Hope this is helpful.
David

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I used a spring pole method to clamp the back wall while the methylacrylate was curing.

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[David H]

Fishing Pole Compartment:


There has been some interest in this so I will post what I came up with. Dan L made a Kydex tube holder:


Page 7, #62:
http://www.cubcraftersforums.com/sho...ht=fishing+rod


A lot of guys strap their poles (and snowshoes, and shovels, guns...) to the jury struts.




I wanted an interior compartment with a latchable door. So I made one out of 0.050 aluminum.

Initially I thought of using a Camloc button latch like on a Cessna oil door:





After playing around with one, I decided on a Harwell latch as I liked the large arm that has a very positive capture from behind the panel.


http://www.bandbaircraftsupplies.com...&keyword=latch



What to make the “tube” out of? I settled on some 'Cordura' like fabric from JoAnn Fabric. I sewed a tube that attached to the door frame with a reinforcement piece. I sewed several cords inside near the opening in case I want to tie objects so they don't slide to the back of the tube. Several straps were sewn on the top and I zip tied the top of the tube to the frame members.


Overall I am very happy with how it turned out.


Cost:
Latch $15.00
Aluminum + hinge $15.00
Fabric $20.00


Total = $50.00


Weight:
Door + hinge + latch 5 3/4oz
Aluminum rivet reinforcement 1oz
Cloth tube 8 1/8oz


Total = 14 7/8 oz

Hope this is helpful,

David



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Here is a view from the back with the tube everted. The tube is between the aluminum angles riveted to the back wall and the aluminum brace that runs around the inside of this. The rivets are way overkill. Leftovers from race car days.

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Attachment 5975

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[David H]

LED Extended Baggage Light:


I thought it would be nice to have some light in the baggage area. I elected to place a LED light under the baggage access door so the light would shine away as you looked through the opened door. I settled on this simple light. The light output is very smooth and the brightness seems just right.


http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...?clickkey=7189


I will place a second light centered in the carbon fiber side panel forward of the extended bagger on the right.

I hope this is helpful,

David


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The light output looks much better and more consistent to the naked eye.


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[David H]

Extended Baggage Hold Downs:


This has been covered before. Again, Chuck and Ryan's: page 2, #15:


http://www.cubcraftersforums.com/sho...ild-Tips/page2


I used USCargo for the two rear-most tie downs:


http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratche...t-w-Round-Base


I also tried their elastic cargo net:


http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Van-Tr...t-with-6-Hooks


I made custom reinforcements for under the aluminum floor. Very light and very solid.

I hope this is helpful,

David

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This is the left side looking up from under the floor.

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This is the Right side looking up under the floor. This is a complex wrap around piece. It is one piece that wraps around two tubes for support.

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[ceslaw]

Excellent ideas, nice design, and well executed. The fabric liner in the extended baggage looks great. Thanks for posting the details.

Chuck