EarthX Battery Cautions

[aeroaddict]

EarthX makes 2 certified batteries, but one is 24V. I do use these, but use the ETX680C. I did not build my plane with a Garmin panel (offered by CC) nor did I use the CC backup battery system.

I wired my own panel (Dynon) and ignition backup. I use 2 of the EarthX ETX680C's as stated above.

I'm guessing here, but what the electronics see is volts and amps, not the type of source (lead, LIPO,...). I think the question comes down to reliability, performance, personal choice,...

[Chip]

EarthX makes 2 certified batteries, but one is 24V. I do use these, but use the ETX680C. I did not build my plane with a Garmin panel (offered by CC) nor did I use the CC backup battery system.

I wired my own panel (Dynon) and ignition backup. I use 2 of the EarthX ETX680C's as stated above.

I'm guessing here, but what the electronics see is volts and amps, not the type of source (lead, LIPO,...). I think the question comes down to reliability, performance, personal choice,...

Perhaps it was not the battery….. I could use some advice and recommendations

I was having starter issues on my EX. When I turned the key to start… nothing. If we pulled the prop through several rotations, it would start. Perhaps coincidentally, the battery was 2 years old and at times below 12 volts when I turned the key. I assumed the battery was failing and replaced it with the EarthX 680C. I start with both IBBS and master switches on.

Now when I start, the battery voltage reading will flash “red” and plunges to the bottom of the tape quickly returning to normal (14 v) when running.

Yesterday, it was back to nothing when I turned the key. (Battery voltage was 12.4). I pulled the prop several rotations and it started (again voltage flashed “red”).

Ideas on how best to troubleshoot and where to start looking would be very much appreciated

Chip

[Springloaded]

Just something to keep in mind. I've been running these batteries for a long time and love them. Remember these batteries turn off when voltage get low. I had to go get a cub out of a field yesterday. The field breaker popped in a SS and he didn't notice it. I'm not sure how long it took he was gone most of the day,but battery died or should I say it shut down. He didn't think about the emergency battery backup. He ended up in a really rough cow pasture and went thru a drainage ditch. When I got there he plane was stopped right by the ditch, I said good thing you missed that! His wife said we went thru it! He's running 31s I don't believe the plane would of made it thru that without bushwheels. Jumped with a battery pack turned field back on, told him to leave back up on and he flew it home.
Chuck

[Pete Brown]

Hey Chip, I mentioned this to Glenn but here’s my thought process.

Assuming with a new battery you have eliminated that variable. Generally speaking if it is charged (and charging) like Chuck mentioned, then I would look at a loss of amp flow during the start sequence. It’s more typically a bad ground than the positive side, but I would verify you have clean and good contacts at the starter solenoid, battery, the main ground, and the starter.

The starter solenoid is a good culprit for stuck contacts, but usually they require a good beating to make them get back work. Swinging the prop will not affect that. But a just a tiny bit of corrosion under the cable at one of the lugs is enough to reduce amperage flow so when it calls for power, none is getting through, hence the voltmeter drops to zero momentarily. As they aren’t terribly robust and low on the expense scale, changing that also eliminates it as a variable. FYI airplanes that don’t fly much replace these often. (Hint hint)

Again battery contacts are likely good since you would have cleaned those when you replaced the battery. The main ground you’ll not enjoy since you’ll have to remove your aux fuel pod, and drop the belly pan to remove and clean the main ground connection.

Then I’d check the starter lug.

If all of those turn out good, and the problem continues, typically I would then replace the starter. It’s the last culprit in my diagnostic chart, assuming that my brain is still working after 11 pm.

pb

[Chip]

Hey Chip, I mentioned this to Glenn but here’s my thought process.

Assuming with a new battery you have eliminated that variable. Generally speaking if it is charged (and charging) like Chuck mentioned, then I would look at a loss of amp flow during the start sequence. It’s more typically a bad ground than the positive side, but I would verify you have clean and good contacts at the starter solenoid, battery, the main ground, and the starter.

The starter solenoid is a good culprit for stuck contacts, but usually they require a good beating to make them get back work. Swinging the prop will not affect that. But a just a tiny bit of corrosion under the cable at one of the lugs is enough to reduce amperage flow so when it calls for power, none is getting through, hence the voltmeter drops to zero momentarily. As they aren’t terribly robust and low on the expense scale, changing that also eliminates it as a variable. FYI airplanes that don’t fly much replace these often. (Hint hint)

Again battery contacts are likely good since you would have cleaned those when you replaced the battery. The main ground you’ll not enjoy since you’ll have to remove your aux fuel pod, and drop the belly pan to remove and clean the main ground connection.

Then I’d check the starter lug.

If all of those turn out good, and the problem continues, typically I would then replace the starter. It’s the last culprit in my diagnostic chart, assuming that my brain is still working after 11 pm.

pb

Thanks Peter and Chuck. I hadn’t considered the fact the battery would shut off!

Peter, I’ll try the above. I think I can get to the ground tab from above by removing the battery case and will make sure all connections are tight and clean.

thanks again

Chip

[Chip]

Hey Chip, I mentioned this to Glenn but here’s my thought process.

Assuming with a new battery you have eliminated that variable. Generally speaking if it is charged (and charging) like Chuck mentioned, then I would look at a loss of amp flow during the start sequence. It’s more typically a bad ground than the positive side, but I would verify you have clean and good contacts at the starter solenoid, battery, the main ground, and the starter.

The starter solenoid is a good culprit for stuck contacts, but usually they require a good beating to make them get back work. Swinging the prop will not affect that. But a just a tiny bit of corrosion under the cable at one of the lugs is enough to reduce amperage flow so when it calls for power, none is getting through, hence the voltmeter drops to zero momentarily. As they aren’t terribly robust and low on the expense scale, changing that also eliminates it as a variable. FYI airplanes that don’t fly much replace these often. (Hint hint)

Again battery contacts are likely good since you would have cleaned those when you replaced the battery. The main ground you’ll not enjoy since you’ll have to remove your aux fuel pod, and drop the belly pan to remove and clean the main ground connection.

Then I’d check the starter lug.

If all of those turn out good, and the problem continues, typically I would then replace the starter. It’s the last culprit in my diagnostic chart, assuming that my brain is still working after 11 pm.

pb

Good call Peter.. rule of thumb. It’s always the ground! I took apart all the connections, cleaned some powder coating from the ground lug, reassembled with dielectric grease and tightened. Works great now. Still some voltage drop at startup but within the green.

Thanks for the help!

Chip