Tailwheel steering

[Becky Teerink]

Ok.
All good info.
I thought everyone knew that owners could maintain an ELSA.
That's one of the reasons for going that way.

Now as to the various springs ---

First --What is the factory now recommendending about the number of springs inside the tailwheel assembly?

Second--I originally asked about the use of compression springs on the chains instead of extension springs.
Compression springs are the kind that have two "tee" shaped pieces inside the spring that cause it to compress when under tension.
Compression springs are designed to "bottom out" and increase pressure and tailwheel travel with large rudder travel.
I have seen them used on many tailwheel aircraft. (As well on most screen door safety chains. )
Are compression springs a no-no on the Alaskan Bushweel assembly that I have???
Does Cub Crafters think that they should not be used???
What's the downside??
Maybe I don't understand the problem or what's causing my difficult steering.
I still can't see how adding a link to the chain will help.
Thanks
Bill

Bill, I just had a chat with Wup at Alaskan Bushwheel and he will be giving his input...

[Wup Winn]

If you go to the link below you will find a video on tailwheel rigging that might help you understand why too tight will cause you more issues than to loose, as for the compression springs vs. expansion type springs it is a matter of preference on your part. Both work it is just a different feel in the peddles. If you run too tight of tension you risk bending parts internal to the TW and also you are adding alot of wear to the rudder bushings that is not needed.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3qFwzPNBgE

http://www.youtube.com/user/Maule10Y.../0/QtokU8mIDQk

[greg]

Greg, I chose to replace throttle cable on #100. Took my mechanic 4 hrs to complete. Seemed more prudent to replace it instead of patching the existing. one. I just went from a 3200 to a wide fork baby bushwheel and steering seems to have more "slack" in it now. cant really figure out why cause we did change any of the linkage and only different on the bottom half of tailwheel. still working on it. Royce

Thanks Royce. I'll probably get in touch with Becky and get the parts on the way. I have # 102 and my buddy has #109 so we'll probably do them together. I've flown #109 and the tail wheel steers poorly just like mine. Must be typical of all the sports w/ 3200. One very noticable difference is the smoothness of 109 compared to my plane #102. Could it be prop ballance or perhaps a more serious issue? It has never changed or gotten any worse or better. the difference between the two is dramatic. can this prop be ballanced? Where to get it ballanced? Should it have been ballanced from the facyory?

Greg

[turbopilot]

Thanks Royce. I'll probably get in touch with Becky and get the parts on the way. I have # 102 and my buddy has #109 so we'll probably do them together. I've flown #109 and the tail wheel steers poorly just like mine. Must be typical of all the sports w/ 3200. One very noticable difference is the smoothness of 109 compared to my plane #102. Could it be prop ballance or perhaps a more serious issue? It has never changed or gotten any worse or better. the difference between the two is dramatic. can this prop be ballanced? Where to get it ballanced? Should it have been ballanced from the facyory?

Greg

Suggest you give Jim Barker a call at Aviation Resources in Cumberland, WI. Jim can balance anything.

[greg]

Suggest you give Jim Barker a call at Aviation Resources in Cumberland, WI. Jim can balance anything.

looked at his web site. i will give a call.
Thanks, Bob

[turbopilot]

looked at his web site. i will give a call.
Thanks, Bob

Let us know if you have Jim balance your airplane. Jim typically makes road trips around the country in a truck doing precision balancing of aircraft. He was out on the west coast last Fall.

[Centmont]

First thing to try is taking the prop off, rotating it 180 deg, and putting it back on. You may have already tried this. R

[greg]

First thing to try is taking the prop off, rotating it 180 deg, and putting it back on. You may have already tried this. R

Have not done anything yet. But your idea has crossed my mind. I noticed a log book entry that the prop was changed just after test flight at the factory, probably in a hury because the pilot taking delivery was ready to get going. If the prop is removed will there be any identifing marks that would tell the orientation? I know there is a procedure for this as I have seen mechanics change props on previous planes. Should have paid more attention.

Greg

[greg]

First thing to try is taking the prop off, rotating it 180 deg, and putting it back on. You may have already tried this. R

Your reccomendation paid off! Turns out the same fix is called for in the maintenance manual. Tried it and had instant positive result. Don't quite understand why this would change anything, unless the prop is heavy on one side and the rotating components inside the engine are heavy on the same side, thus compounding the imballance when in the same alignment, then somewhat counteracting the weight imballance when opposed 180deg. still not as smooth as #109 but acceptable for now. Will probably still want to get dynamic ballance done on the prop-engine combination.

Thanks Loads,
Greg