Stewarts Systems

[Daveembry]

Moved the fuse on the rotisserie Tuesday night, started spraying Wednesday night. Sunday we are done. That is fillers right through to colour. I pulled the masking 5 hours later. I am pleased with the results. Looking forward to the panel.



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Beautiful!! I have a question....looks like you put a tape on the top longeron. The manual doesn't show that. Is it something you just decided to do?

[TroyBranch]

Beautiful!! I have a question....looks like you put a tape on the top longeron. The manual doesn't show that. Is it something you just decided to do?

I put tapes on every longeron. Takes little time to do and more fabric at the hard points is always a good idea.


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[TroyBranch]

Troy. I noticed you didn't do the standard "CC" stripes but are shorter. My design is also much the same but with an "Orange Crush" pin-up girl going on the cowl. (Note: I will change her direction to be facing forward on each side)

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Talking with Mitch, the stripes they provide are too long (well, the shorter one might equal my long one). Did you just get your stripes done at the local vinyl shop (sign store)?

Thanks.

I used the same stripes from Mitch. I am sure a vinyl shop could do it as long as you got them the right geometry.


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[Daveembry]

I put tapes on every longeron. Takes little time to do and more fabric at the hard points is always a good idea.


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Probably a good idea. Not much weight and will double the fabric there (but will have one more pinked edge to see).

[Bill Tew]

Happy with Stewart Systems process and paint but hate orange peel.

Having spent too many years in a chemistry lab, I appreciate Stewart Systems water based products for lack of organic solvents and ease of cleanup. EkoFill and EkoPrime are easy enough to apply and sand smooth for final color. Following the tack coat/wet coat instructions, EkoPoly Premium (Tennessee Red & Smoke Grey) takes a little more care to prevent sags and runs but gives a nice high gloss finish - but consistently in my hands with a little orange peel and a few dust nibs.

My first build was an F1 Rocket (all aluminium) with a color/clear coat finish. Straightforward wet "color sanding" brought the finish to a beautiful deep gloss - and no orange peel. In my CC build, I prepared several 2'x3' fabric panels for painting practice and as fabric patches when needed. Experimenting on those, I've found that orange peel with EkoPoly is much easier to remove by wet sand than with clear coat.

Since I was planning to remove some of the EkoPoly by wet sanding and polishing, I applied more final color coats than typical to the fuselage. After curing for a few days (Stewart recommends 48 hrs), the dust nibs were knocked down by hand with wet 2000 grit paper. The fuselage cured for 3 more weeks (travel got in the way) before I could get back to it. The end result is very, very nice - no orange peel and a rich, deep luster. Here's the process:

3M 5" D/A orbital palm sander - air driven with 6" foam pad. Spray bottle of water with a few drops of dishwashing detergent.

Sprits the surface lightly with water and start with 1000 grit 3M Red Abrasive Film disc to level the orange peel followed by a 1500 grit disc. I was careful to not machine sand the tapes and edges for fear of removing too much - did those areas by hand. When the surface was uniform, the sanding scratches were refined by progressive 2000, 3000, and 5000 grit foam discs (3M Trizact discs). Final finishing with a random orbital 6" polisher (~1,200 rpm) used 3M Perfect-It EX Rubbing Compound followed by 3M Perfect-It Machine polish .

It took about 12 hrs over 4 days to finish the fuselage. Wings are next in the paint booth and I'm sure they'll present their own finishing challenges. I understand this is all a bit excessive but it's mindless work and the results are quite satisfying. There are a few tricks and details I've discovered to the process and am happy to share if anyone's interested.

Bill Tew
Park City, UT
wptew1@gmail.com

[TroyBranch]

Once all the bugs are spattered everywhere, dust and dirt as well as many rock chips on the paint, you will soon find the slight bit of orange peel is not even visible.


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[Bill Tew]

yes but.......in between the bug splats and rock chips she'll be looking good!

[TroyBranch]

yes but.......in between the bug splats and rock chips she'll be looking good!

Very true. I hope to see the results close up one day to compare. I am sure it looks awesome.


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[David H]

Wing color base color done. VERY happy with Stewart Sysytems. Daytona white went on great. I followed the directions exactly. Interesting - they now recommend a coat of EkoBond brushed on prior to EkoFill. I did a cross coat of EkoPrime white prior to color coat. I used the gun, separator, regulator, high flow connectors etc. all as recommended by Stewart Systems. No complaints.

I'd give the paint job an A-. Not bad for first time painter.

Thanks to Troy for the suggestion of copper tubing out of the compressor looped in a trash can of cold water then to tank. Lots of water in the tank but none in separator using this.

Leading edge will get Miami Blue.

David

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[David H]

Fusleage and Boot cowl painted. Overall, very happy with Stewart Systems. Beginner painter goofs resulted in a couple of sags, but overall very happy. I' give it a B+.

Will let the paint harden for a few days, then I will re evaluate and probably sand/polish the sags.

I have all the small parts to paint yet, should go quickly, then try to fit the avionics! (G3X GTN625 etc.)
(door to receive exterior Daytona white stripe on the primer, then Black + Gray on its interior)

David

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