Figured I would give an update on the paint as I was asked to talk about the good and the bad if any. One of the things I noticed on the few Emp parts I shot had some fish eyes and craters. It was a 2ft paint job and I was not happy with it. I had zero trouble before and I needed to get to the bottom of it. I still had one wing to cover and prep to top coat and the fuse to cover so I was not in a rush. I talked to the factory for suggestions and all questions was answered with the right answers. We were stumped. I upgraded my air supply just to make sure it was not that even though it was no trouble before. Same issue with the cub yellow. I shot some black and it was fine. I sent the yellow back to the factory and they had the same issue. I decided to get a pint of red sent to me and try it. It shot perfect so the decision was made to change the color to red. I love red, every plane I owned has had red. I tried to change but it was not meant to be.
So new gallons of red got sent and I shot the flaps in red. The problem came back.
We learned that the manufacturer of the pint cans was different than the quart and gallons. That was really hard to believe that a water borne compatible can could create this issue. The factory tried the red and it was fine there but they hadn't put it in a gallon can. I then when to an automotive spray booth with my red to rule out all my system....same issue there. It had to be the can. The factory placed the paint in the can for a couple of days and sure enough, the cans was contaminating the paint. I was so glad to know it was not my system and we could move forward. I was dreading spraying a top coat with "stinky stuff" and totally stinking up my garage. My wife and I love the no smell from this paint.
So I had great communication with SS the entire time even though it was very frustrating trying to get to the bottom of it. I am leaving the flaps as they are for now. They are a 2ft paint job and I know some people are happy with a 6ft paint job but I am not. I want to do the best I can even though it will not be perfect. They will be something to talk about around the campfire in the back country! I could have just accepted what I had, but I stuck to my guns and took nothing less than perfect. Glad I did.
One good thing about it is that I got lots of gun time on scrap parts, I have real confidence every time I spray.
A few tips to make sure you get the best results.
Cool dry air- I have a 50ft coil of copper line going through a barrel of water after the pump before going into the tank
Clean air- Water trap, particle and desiccant. I also have a charcoal that I do not think is needed.
Always sand the parts a good as possible with 320 paper. Red scotch needs to be used over the rivets and such but the paper will get you the best finish.
Wipe and blow all the dust off before tack ragging.
Use 91% alcohol on a low lint towel lightly sprayed on from a spray bottle and wipe down prior to tack raging.
Tack rag 3 times. You can never tack rag enough and you should do the last one right before you shoot with the fan running and you are ready to spray.
I have found that it is best to just pull the tapes after it is dry. They say while wet but it is almost impossible to not get a string free line. The wet gives a smoother edge but the dry pull ensures better results even though there is an edge.
Every thing is covered, boot cowl is done, panel was fitted and drilled. Only paint left and I am rolling on that now with many parts done.......but in red
Attachment 4969Attachment 4970Attachment 4971Attachment 4972Attachment 4973