Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

[ceslaw]

Chuck,

Where did you get the tiedown you used for the rear seatbelt hole? If you have the part number that would be great. I want to do that as well.

Call Mitch. It is the same as the one used at the top aft end of the extended baggage. Order a pair of the washers to go with them when you call.

[ceslaw]

Chuck The bedliner is called Raptor Liner it looks like the MFG is U-POL made in the UK.
EV

Thanks EV. Good info

[Cubrath]

Call Mitch. It is the same as the one used at the top aft end of the extended baggage. Order a pair of the washers to go with them when you call.

Thanks Chuck!

[stede52]

Here's another option for extra tie down for the baggage compartment, light weight and the ring is removable when not needed: http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratche...e-Down-Systems

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[ceslaw]

Stede:

Very nice tie downs!

Tie downs at the aft end floor are a good idea.

[ceslaw]

Extended Baggage Floor Mat

The parts needed for the rear seat belt tie down which are all Cubcrafter parts include:

1. Bushing C80012-17 (This should already be on the seatbelt bolt)
2. D Ring 105445-02 (Same as top aft tie down D Rings)
3. Washer AN970-4

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The large washer below the seat belt serves an additional function: it holds down the floor mat.

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We found some ribbed runner mat in the aircraft section of our local Menards. It seems to be an ideal baggage compartment floor covering. It is heavy enough to stay put and provide protection, the texture should help reduce stuff moving about, and it is easy to work with. It can be easily removed. A pattern was made and then the mat was cut with an Exacto knife. The openings for the center tie downs were cut large enough to clear the washers since these tie downs are not removable once the plane is covered. The seat belt tie downs were opened just enough to fit the D Ring bolt through. This will keep the mat in place.

I would estimate that this mat added about six ounces weight.

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[Cubrath]

[QUOTE=stede52;10813]Here's another option for extra tie down for the baggage compartment, light weight and the ring is removable when not needed: http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratche...e-Down-Systems


Stede52,

Thanks for the link! I like the bracket you made for the corner mount. How sturdy are the mounts that are just mounted to the floorboards? I would be worried that I could bend my floor by cinching up the straps to tight?

MR

[stede52]

Stede52,

Thanks for the link! I like the bracket you made for the corner mount. How sturdy are the mounts that are just mounted to the floorboards? I would be worried that I could bend my floor by cinching up the straps to tight?

MR[/QUOTE]

I'm a little concerned about the ones that aren't wrapped around tubing, however, I'm planning on using the frame hold downs for the heavy stuff. The reason I could go around all the tubing was because the mounting holes on the tiedown are too narrow for the wider tubing under the floor. I'll just fly in nice weather

[ceslaw]

Boot Cowl Installation

Typically once the boot cowl is built it is set aside until the plane is covered and painted. Only then is it installed for the first time. Not wanting to be typical, I decided to install it before covering and painting. The chances of damaging the fabric and fresh paint would be less at this stage.

1. The fabric spacers were marked with a line .45 inches from the forward edge indicating where the aft end of the boot cowl should be. The boot cowl was pulled into place with straps, per the manual. It lined up perfectly on the left but was a good 1/16” short on the right. Although the strap could be used to pull it into place I was not comfortable with the amount of tension that was needed. Just a sixteenth inch made a noticeable difference in the degree of tension. I stopped and spent a lot of time considering options, measuring, removing and replacing the boot cowl. The dilemma is there is only a narrow band on the fabric spacer support where the screws can be properly placed.

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2. The solution decided upon was to place the screws on the right side 3/16 from the aft edge while the screws on the left were placed ¼” from the aft edge per the manual. No one will ever notice the variation left to right, unless you have read this post.

3. The manual calls for a 3/32” hole. We opted to go a bit smaller with a # 43 to assure a tight fit when the screws are eventually placed. We can always enlarge it later. Start from the bottom and drill with a slight upward angle so that when the screws are placed it will tend to pull the cowl upward making it tight. Note that the “slack” will be made up when the seam on the top of the cowl is eventually closed. Silver clecos were used to hold it in place, although they were a really tight fit.

The idea of drilling through a fuel line prompted us to use a drill stop.

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4. The belly panel was temporarily installed and the holes along the bottom aft edge of the boot cowl were drilled as well.

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5. Do NOT drill the holes for the top center seam or the instrument panel. These may vary a bit once the actual panel is finally installed.

6. With all the holes on the side and bottom drilled with the # 43 bit, the boot cowl was removed. The side holes on the boot cowl were enlarged with a #34 bit and the seven holes in the bottom center section were enlarged to 3/16”, all per the manual. Do NOT enlarge the two bottom holes closest to the landing gear supports. They will get the same type screw as used on the sides.

Now here is the cool part. When the boot cowl was secured in place with the clecos, we noticed that the top seam was centered and aligned perfectly with the aft shoulder belt support. We also noticed that the top of the left side of the boot cowl was exactly even with the window frame. Given the large sections of aluminum and all the spacers and rivets, it is pretty impressive that it comes together with such precision.

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Now we can set the boot cowl aside.

[ceslaw]

ELT Antenna

We decided to go with the Cubcrafters ELT ( Kannad ) and RAMI antenna after looking at several alternatives.The antenna is mounted on the back of the extended baggage with a specific bracket that sets the antenna perpendicular to the mounting surface. Ask Mitch to send the appropriate bracket if you have the extended baggage. We measured 10 inches from the base of the extended baggage and centered the hole, working inside the baggage compartment. Once mounted with a 6/32 x 3/8 bolt and nyloc nut, the remaining two holes were drilled. We opted for a lower location than specified by Cubrafters.. Reason? To make the antenna and the coax connection accessible from the inspection port on the bottom of the fuselage.

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I am a bit anal about using dielectric grease on any connections that can potentially carry an electric current, including nuts/bolts, plugs, and electrical connectors. The extended baggage is effectively grounded to the airframe by the row of screws on the forward bottom end. Antennas like to work against an effective ground plane (no pun intended). So a bit of dilectric grease was used on those three nuts and bolts holding the bracket to the back of the extended baggage.

When routing the RG-142 coax we looped it below the antenna to provide a bit of slack, should it become necessary to disconnect it from the bottom inspection port after it is covered. The bracket was also arranged so the coax connector could be easily accessed from the bottom for the same reason.I have noticed that Cubcrafters has a real affection for black friction tape. It seems that any place two dissimilar materials come together it is wrapped in friction tape. So I was liberal (I hate that word) in using friction tape when securing the coax cable. As routed, the cable provided by Cubcrafters was the correct length with no trimming.

The antenna sets on the same plane (double meaning) as the lower stringers. The rib stitching tape was tied off at the point where the stringers and the airframe cross for a nice, neat, installation. The frame and antenna were wrapped with friction tape before the tape was tied in place.

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The RG-142 cable was wire tied in place at about 8” intervals along the inside of the stringer. A grommet was added (not supplied with the kit) where the coax passes through the right front fabric spacer support.

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Seems like a lot of work for something I hope will never be used.