Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

[Andy]

Thanks for the tip on camera type. I had been considering the readily available "back up" cameras but this camera could well be a better choice.

I don't know how you aligned your landing lights. A factory FX-3 has zero ground illumination from the landing lights. I plan to add taxi lights and, if camera was powered by a light switch, it would be taxi not landing lights.

Hope the airworthiness inspection goes well and looking forward to hearing a first flight report.

[Andy]

Video Camera. The G3X has an RCA input jack for a video camera. Being able to see the gopher holes before landing seemed like a nice option.

Just in case it helps someone intending to implement the camera interface - According to the G3X Touch installation manual the GDU 4xx video connector is BNC not RCA. BNC is a much better connector than RCA/Phono.

[ceslaw]

Just in case it helps someone intending to implement the camera interface - According to the G3X Touch installation manual the GDU 4xx video connector is BNC not RCA. BNC is a much better connector than RCA/Phono.

Good point Andy. The G3X comes has a BNC female connector but the camera comes with an RCA male plug, so a simple connector is needed. I have revised the post to fix that error. Thanks.

Here is a picture of the harness after it was shortened and spliced.

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[ceslaw]

Counting Threads. When installing the fuel tanks, one measures the threaded inboard ends of the drag/anti drag wires and marks the measurement on the adjacent rib before removing them, sets the fuel tanks, then replaces the nuts matching the length before they were removed. I always wondered just how accurate this was. Turns out, it’s pretty accurate.

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Pictures were taken of each of the threaded ends of the four wires (two per wing) before and after. It is much easier counting threads when they are blown up about ten times actual size.

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To my surprise, the number of threads before and after matched exactly on all four wires.

As an additional note, I only measured two digits past the decimal (hundredths). It is probably pointless going beyond that in this particular application.

[ceslaw]

Foiled Again. Years ago, a tip on the application of the foil tape to the ends of the ailerons and flaps was posted on this blog. Here are some more thoughts on the topic.

Pilots patronizing these posts presumably appreciate my penchant for preparing patterns prior to placing particular parts on the plane. Posterboard patterns made cutting the foil to the correct dimensions a bit easier.

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Rather than using the light weight foil tape available at hardware stores, automotive repair foil tape was used. It is a bit heavier. O’Reilly’s, Autozone, Napa and others sell it.

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Before sticking the cut foil in place, the rib was sprayed with water spiked with a few drops of dish soap and alcohol – the same mixture used for applying the vinyl tapes. It makes it a bit easier to adjust while installing, or removing if the installation goes awry. I opted not to paint the foil and machined hinges.

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[ceslaw]

Wiring Tip. At the location where the wires and pitot tube emerge from the wing root friction tape is typically wrapped around the wire and pitot tube to protect from chafe. Getting access for a decent tape wrap is problematic.An easy solution is applying a 3” section of heat shrink tubing before the wires are placed in their final position, shrinking it with the minimum heat needed, then sliding the wires in to place. The result is a neat, secure, protected result.

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Wish I had thought of this two planes ago.

[ceslaw]

Paint. Paint is a subject with a host of variables and opinions, so with a bit of trepidation I am commenting on the topic, for what it is worth.

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Philosophy: Paint that would be durable but easily repaired was the primary goal for a Cub that will hopefully see back country flying. Poly Tone is much easier to repair than the epoxy / polyurethane paints, such as PPG or Aerothane. Accordingly, all fabric surfaces were finished with Poly Tone.Poly Tone is not well suited to carbon fiber and aluminum. Aerothane was used on those surfaces. PPG paint was used on our last plane but we opted for Aerothane on this plane. Both are polyurethane based products although the Aerothane seemed ‘thinner’ and the PPG seemed ‘thicker,’ meaning it takes fewer coats of PPG to provide coverage.The Aerothane is extremely durable resisting every solvent we tested on it including MEK, lacquer thinner, acetone and even rubbing compound.

Poly tone: Poly tone dries with a satin to flat finish. By spraying when the paint booth temperature was between 65 and 70 degrees a nice sheen (not shine) resulted.

Aerothane, like PPG, dries to a glossy finish. By adding Polyfiber Flattener the shine was reduced but not eliminated. Frankly the slight sheen contrast between the fabric surfaces and the hard surfaces, such as the carbon fiber cowl and the aluminum boot cowl, adds to the charm of the plane. In reality, most observers would probably never notice the difference.

Contrast colors: Rather than taping and painting contrasting colors, vinyl appliques were designed, printed, and applied. This approach has several advantages. First, there are no problems with paint bleeding under the masking tape. Second, the time-consuming process of masking and spraying is avoided. Third, it permits a bit of creativity with the patterns one can use that can be difficult with paint. Finally, if you don’t like the final result, it can be removed.

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The door: The interior surface of the door was sprayed with Ag Gray Aerothane. It is an excellent match for the interior color.

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[Ak Paul]

Thanks for the information, reinforces my decision to use Polytone and Aerothane. You did a beautiful job!

[aeroaddict]

Beautiful job as usual.

I know this is an airplane forum, but that's not your average car in the background of the first picture. In fact, those are very special cars.

[ceslaw]

Beautiful job as usual.

I know this is an airplane forum, but that's not your average car in the background of the first picture. In fact, those are very special cars.

Thanks Dan.

The car is a reproduction of a 1965 GT40 which Ryan and I built about a decade ago. Still a good source of fun. There is a very long build blog over at www.GT40s.com documenting the project.

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