Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

[ceslaw]

Throttles

I used four washers separating the long Delron spacer bars. These don’t set the tension / friction, so the nuts were snugged tight. The connecting rod between the front and rear throttles was painted black before it was installed after roughing it up with a 3M Scotch Brite pad and wiping with denatured alcohol.

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The tension is set with the bottom pivot screw on the forward throttle. A fish scale was used to get the 1 pound, six ounces of tension. I used only the forward pivot screw to set the tension.

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Now here is the cool part. We wanted a way to lock that nylock nut in place so the tension/friction could be adjusted easily with just a Phillip’s screwdriver from the pilot’s seat. An AN970-3 washer was modified by folding up two edges to lock the nut and folding down the other two edges to lock the Delron support that it sets upon.

After marking the fold lines, a “V” shaped grove was filed on the washer to assure a clean straight bend on the side opposite the fold. The finished folds were solid despite the material that had been filed away. Just to be sure, however, Ryan ran tiny TIG weld beads along each seam. A few minutes were spent filing the surfaces smooth and after a coat of black paint the job was done. Works perfectly and will make adjusting the friction / tension so much easier.

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[ceslaw]

Tail Feathers

The manual indicates the tail feathers should be assembled after covering. We decided to assemble and rig them before so we could make sure everything would come together easily after it was covered. It won’t take much time to dissemble them for covering and all the hardware will go into a marked zip lock back so it will be easily found when the time comes.The cable that pulls the “up” elevator is more difficult to access once the fabric is on, so it was adjusted per the manual now. Two things must be done to adjust it per the Finish manual.

First, the elevator must be set so it is on the same level as the stabilizer. (I could say they need to “be on the same plane” but that would have a double meaning.) Power up the trim motor to move it into this centered position.

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Second, the seat has to be set in place in the most forward position. Then the top “up” cable can be adjusted so when the stick is pulled back to the maximum up elevator position it just kisses the seat. Lock the connection at the top elevator and it is now set.

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Third, get in the plane, move the stick back and forth, operate the rudder pedals, and make airplane sounds. Then take it all apart putting the pieces in a plastic baggy marked appropriately. It will be so much quicker finding the hardware when installed for the final time.

[c130jake]

Where were you 3 months ago...tail feathers got first top coat today...when I build the next one ;-)

[ceslaw]

Where were you 3 months ago...tail feathers got first top coat today...when I build the next one ;-)

Hey Jake. . . . Trying to catch up with you!

Chuck

[ceslaw]

Extended Baggage.

So how much work is there in fastening several aluminum panels together? Actually quite a bit.

1. Make sure that the stringer below the access door on the right is NOT installed until after the extended baggage is in place.

2. The manual shows continuous beads of methocrylate along many of the joints between the frame and the aluminum panels. Although we started out that way, we switched to stitching with three or four inch beads. I am sure it is sufficient and it conserves the glue. Plus the gaps between the glue provide space for plastic ties to secure the fuel line later.

3. Stitched beads of methocrylate are needed along the top airframe joints, all angle airframe joints, and the bottom below the floor along the cross support tubes: anywhere the aluminum meets the airframe.

4. Here is an idea. We added two tie downs at the midpoint on the floor. The same tie downs and hardware were used as on the top aft panel, but the tube clamp is a 5/8” size, part number MS27405-5 rather than the ½” used at the top aft panel. I did this for two reasons. First another mechanical connection between the aluminum panels and the frame seemed like a good idea. Second, the tie downs can be used to secure a net to prevent cargo from shifting forward.

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5. Another set of tie downs was added at the rear seat belt connections, per Mitch’s suggestion. The welded nut plate for the seat belt bolt is the same size as the tie down bolt. Spacers and washers will make this work just fine.

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[EVRoosevelt]

Don't forget To spray some clear truck bedliner on them it keeps them looking good
EV

[ceslaw]

Don't forget To spray some clear truck bedliner on them it keeps them looking good
EV

Not familiar with that. Brand? Source? How is it applied? Wonder if it would be best applied before assembly?

Thanks.

Chuck

[EVRoosevelt]

Not sure of the brand will check on Wed. and let you know. Call any auto paint store and ask if they have clear bedliner. Yes its a lot easier to put on before you install, but I have done 2 with the panels installed. Just tape up everything real good.
EV

[EVRoosevelt]

Chuck The bedliner is called Raptor Liner it looks like the MFG is U-POL made in the UK.
EV

[Cubrath]

Chuck,

Where did you get the tiedown you used for the rear seatbelt hole? If you have the part number that would be great. I want to do that as well.