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Thread: Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

  1. #161
    Senior Member Cubrath's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Daveembry View Post
    Thanks! You are right. I did that with a rod and sure enough....it was not far enough forward. Good catch and thanks so much! Why isn't this stuff in the manual (well...."video" I guess since there is no wing cover manual)? I guess you wait until it's installed and painted and later find it out. How many have done that I wonder? Thanks again....save my rear on that one just in the nick of time.

    I learned the hard way on my first cub project, didn't realize how far I was off until final assembly. If it's off more than 1/2" there is no nice way to finish it without removal and redo. Glad you brought the subject up!

    Mike

  2. #162
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    Default Re: Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

    Quote Originally Posted by Cubrath View Post
    I learned the hard way on my first cub project, didn't realize how far I was off until final assembly. If it's off more than 1/2" there is no nice way to finish it without removal and redo. Glad you brought the subject up!

    Mike
    i removed the patch and grommet just like Chuck said with the reducer but had to use MEK on the plastic grommet that was put on with the poly-tak.

    After aligning pulley locations, these are the measurements on mine that worked. This is in the right wing.

    I also just ran across the figure in the manual that actually shows the dimensions this grommet should be installed at! It wasn't in the video but is in the manual diagrams.

    IMG_7194.jpg
    IMG_7195.jpg
    Last edited by Daveembry; 11-17-2016 at 05:44 AM.

  3. #163
    Member gderamel's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

    Quote Originally Posted by ceslaw View Post
    Engine Heat

    During the first ten hours of flight the engine was run hard to keep the cylinder head temperatures around 420 degrees as part of the break in procedure. On the first flight we noticed that forward cylinders ran significantly cooler than the aft cylinders. To equalize the temperatures foil tape was placed on the lower three quarters inch of the cylinders to direct more air aft. This worked well equalizing the CHTs, but was a less than elegant solution long term. So we decided to fabricate a permanent solution.

    [/SIZE]
    I just fabricated and installed some of your baffles. They're working perfectly! My #1 & #2 CHTs were running 60-70 F cooler than the rear cylinders. Now they're all in line.






    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #164
    Senior Member ceslaw's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

    Thanks for the report! Glad it worked.

    Chuck

  5. #165
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    Default Re: Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

    Hey guys, great information here. I'm part way thru a EX-2 build and this spring (to cold now) will start to cover. I'm trying to figure out the things that need to go in the fuselage and wings before covering.

    On post #35, Trim Indicator, the indicator appears to be a Measurement Specialties SM2-7 model. Does this unit interface directly with the Garmin? And are there other options for a trim indicator?

    Cheers
    Dan Arnold
    KEUL

  6. #166
    Senior Member ceslaw's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

    Dan:

    Yes, it does indeed interface with the G3X. Specific wiring to the panel is required. Definitely need to do before covering. If you order the G3X panel the necessary wiring will be included.

    Don't know about other compatible options. Two suggestions: (1) talk to Mitch and (2) download the G3X manual, all 1000 pages, which may give you compatible options. I would opt for the first option initially.

    Chuck

  7. #167
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    Default Re: Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

    Thanks Chuck. I did download the manual but haven't chewed thru all of it yet. And I'll give Mitch a call.

    Happy Holidays
    Dan Arnold
    KEUL

  8. #168
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    Default Re: Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

    Quote Originally Posted by ceslaw View Post
    Rear side windows

    A pattern was made scaling it to size from the pattern on the website on a piece of grid marked poster board. (I have previously commented on that stuff. It is really handy). The pattern was carefully cut out, since both the inner and outer portion will be used.

    The outer portion (which marks the area to be painted) was used to cut away the protective wrap about a half inch inside where the paint edge will be. This was done with a scissors. We avoided touching the plastic window with a knife or any sharp object whatsoever.

    Attachment 4634

    The inner pattern was taped in place. The area that will be painted was buffed with a super fine Scotch Brite pad.

    Attachment 4635


    The outer pattern was set on the window and used as a reference for applying the 3M blue 1/8 tape. The area was then carefully masked.

    Attachment 4636


    The area to be painted was sprayed with Bull Dog adhesion promoter and permitted to set up for a few minutes per the instructions, then followed with the finish coat of PPG Polyurethane. The plastic was placed on a vertical board, suspended with a nail through the flap hole, to minimize dust settling on the surface. It came out well. What I don't know is how durable it will be.

    Attachment 4637


    Chuck,

    yesterday I painted my D windows and applied the Bull Dog as well. It says to "mist" it on ....wait 3-5 minutes and "mist" a 2nd coat and wait 5-10 minutes....which I did. The surface was sort of "dimpled" from the bulldog and I wondered what it was going to look like but went ahead and sprayed 2 coats paint. The painted surfaces of the plastic ended up also dimpled looking after paint. Looking at your picture here of your painted window....it's hard to tell.....but it looks like it might be the same way? Not smooth like the other surfaces. Just wondering as I was about to start sanding on it unless that's just the way it does. Thanks.



  9. #169
    Senior Member ceslaw's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

    Dave

    Not sure I can answer your question. But here are some thoughts.

    I do not recall any issues with 'dimpling' as you describe. The Bull Dog went on with a mist coat leaving a dull, smooth finish as I recall. The finished paint coat was smooth and looked essentially the same as the other painted surfaces, both fabric and aluminum.

    Can't say why the Bull Dog dimpled, but things to consider may include (1) whether the plastic had some foreign substances on it. Did you wipe it down with alcohol or solvent before spraying? (2) temperature (3) faulty Bull Dog? The first can of Bull Dog I bought sprayed out in 'clumps' and left an uneven surface. I pitched it and bought another can which misted nicely.

    Chuck

  10. #170
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    Default Re: Chuck and Ryan's Build Tips

    Quote Originally Posted by ceslaw View Post
    Dave

    Not sure I can answer your question. But here are some thoughts.

    I do not recall any issues with 'dimpling' as you describe. The Bull Dog went on with a mist coat leaving a dull, smooth finish as I recall. The finished paint coat was smooth and looked essentially the same as the other painted surfaces, both fabric and aluminum.

    Can't say why the Bull Dog dimpled, but things to consider may include (1) whether the plastic had some foreign substances on it. Did you wipe it down with alcohol or solvent before spraying? (2) temperature (3) faulty Bull Dog? The first can of Bull Dog I bought sprayed out in 'clumps' and left an uneven surface. I pitched it and bought another can which misted nicely.

    Chuck

    Yes that is exactly what it did, it's bright out in clumps instead of a fine mist like they said to use. I talked to Mitch and he said the factory buys it and gallons and doesn't use the spray cans so he hasn't seen that problem either. I just sanded it all out today and re-sprayed it and it came out fine. Thanks

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