Currently at 13 hours and see oil temps range between 157-175, what are others seeing as normal operating oil temp?
Recommendations to increase and to what range.
40M
Currently at 13 hours and see oil temps range between 157-175, what are others seeing as normal operating oil temp?
Recommendations to increase and to what range.
40M
Check out post #139 here http://forum.cubcrafters.com/showthr...mp-Hints/page2
I think you should try and get temps up around the 180 mark to evaporate off moisture in the oil. I heard that sometimes the location of the probe made a difference in the temps you would see but not sure.
On mine and others CC340’s, I think everyone was taping off a big portion of the oil cooler trying to get temps up. You can read how the vernatherm works in that post. If yours is varying temps like my CC363i was, it could be for the same reason.
Last edited by Daveembry; 06-21-2019 at 10:36 AM.
Dave Embry
"You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..
Yes keep the temps above 180. I generally keep my range 180-200 and adjust the amount of foil tape on the cooler, more or less, to stay within that. This gives some flexibility. Power setting greatly change the oil temp. If you put to much tape on by mistake you can power back to 2100 and you will be amazed at how much heat is reduced. Land take off more tape. Soon you will know what you need for tape based on OAT. I change in the fall and spring. In winter I have tapped the full oil cooler and cowl inlet and just make 180 on a really cold day. I consider -20c cold for reference.
Mine was staying around 150, even with warmer weather. So I've taped over part of the oil cooler using foil tape (as used for sealing HVAC ducts and available easily).
You can actually reach in through the cowl inlet to apply the tape with care.
Reading some earlier posts, it seems low oil temperatures are quite common
Here is something I build to eliminate the need for tape, an adjustable flap for the backside of the oil cooler, works great. Since I took these pics I've changed out the friction cable to a button lock cable because the airflow was pushing open the flapper.
Steve Dentz
N419LD
Carnation, WA
Steve -
I have a very similar set-up on my EX. I thought that I would need to block it from the front, but it works great from the rear, and the installation is much simpler.
Last edited by mikemacon; 06-21-2019 at 05:59 PM.
Other then the aluminum flapper, here is the parts list:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/a700.php - A-700 72" BLACK DASH CONTROL PN 05-13172
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/bowdenclamp.php - Bowden Cable Clamp for 7/32" Bowden Cable PN 05-03287
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wireswivels.php -AZUSA WIRE SWIVELS 2361 or something similar
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/pianohinge.php?clickkey=14683 - Aluminum hinge PN MS20257C1-3 03-00056-3 3/4"
Steve Dentz
N419LD
Carnation, WA
Nice job Steve.
Glenn we could add that pretty easily. I should check with Bruce on his too.