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Thread: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

  1. #11
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WING BUILD

    #3 rib bracing is pretty straight forward in the manual. These are just used to keep that rib from pulling/bowing out when you shrink the fabric.

    The #2 rib false rib is also pretty self explanatory. The position of the rib is with the cutouts facing UP and slide it forward or back until the fabric rivet holes on the bottom line up with the hole when using a straight edge from ribs #3 and #4. After you line up the holes on the bottom, just place a mark on the false rib and then install the meth, clamp it and then install the rivets as shown.

    Flap False Spar. Once I get the false spar on I take some 2x4 blocks and put them on the sawhorses under the spars to raise it all up so that the flap false spar; nose ribs, tail ribs, etc. won't rest on the sawhorse. Just be sure you put them under all 4 corners including your 1" block on the outboard rear spar until you have all your skins on the leading edge.

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    An easy way to drill through the flap false spar (and this also works for the nose ribs into the leading edge skins) is to FIRST take a sharpie and make a good line down the center of the tail rib (nose rib) before putting the false spar (leading edge skin) in place. The holes in the flap false spar are pre-drilled, so to be sure you are drilling down into the center of the tail rib, just move it back and forth until you see the line you marked in the hole and then hold it in place as you drill through it and install the SS rivet.

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    On Page 137 DON'T DO IT YET! Do not drill or install these rivets yet! You need to do the alignment of the aileron false spar in the next section before doing this. You can install the 2 cherrymax rivets into the inboard, bottom part of the flap aileron spar into the machined rib but not the top or forward parts that overlap the aileron spar.

    Ignore Page 139 where it says to squeeze the joints of the aileron false spar together. They are now making them with a cut-out in that areas.

    P1050565.jpg

    The manual is pretty good for the remainder. Here is a figure showing where you need to drill a 1/2" hole through the bottom of the flap false spar. This is a view from the bottom looking up at the rear spar between ribs 4 & 5. You can see the location you need to mark and drill a pilot hole with a #30 and then a step drill to get the 1/2" hole. This is so that you can pull that drag wire out that goes from the outboard rear to inboard front spar in the fuel tank bay. You can look through the hole after you drill it and see that the wire will now pass through the hole in the back of the tail rib as well as the hole you just drilled. You'll need to remove that wire when you install the fuel tank and this hole lets you do that.

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    When drilling the holes from the flap false spar and all the leading edge skins later .... into the spar (I am referring to the lip of the flap false spar and later nose skins that overlap the top of the spars and have to be match drilled and riveted in the spar), you need to be sure you are not drilling into the spar "bulb".

    P1050569.jpg

    If you are SURE you have the lip of the part (flap false spar or nose skin) that has the pre-drilled holes in them.....down flush with the bottom of the spar cap, then the pre-drilled holes will be safe to drill into the spar. You can put clamps on them like this to hold them down but check by looking or feeling with your fingers as well before you drill.

    P1050567.jpg


    Another option is this Avery spar tool I detailed in the first post of this thread. You just hold it on the bottom of the spar cap and then drill right through the hole in the tool. It has holes for a #40 and a #30 drill bit. You will see here that the holes in the skins/false spar are pre-drilled exactly the same so like I said, if you are sure you have the skin flush with the bottom, then the pre-drilled holes are fine and you don't have to use the tool. The earlier kits did not have pre-drilled holes so this fixture was a must.

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    25 hours and 37 minutes into the wing build to this point.

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    Last edited by Daveembry; 06-14-2018 at 07:53 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WING BUILD

    Wiring.

    Here are pictures of the ends of the wires. You will have to drill a #40 hole in bay #9 to install the short, orange ground wire for the landing light. The orange wire on the end of the wing tip lights will screw onto a pre-drilled hole that is on the inboard side of the end of the spar. The manual has call-out for the screw that works.

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    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WING BUILD

    Finishing the false spars.

    The manual is good on this. Note that the rivet HEADS go to the OUTBOARD side when installing the brackets on the aileron hangar. This is not the normal way a rivet goes so just wanted to point that out. There will be fabric up in that aileron bay and if you do it the other way then you will have the big, back part of the rivets sticking out.

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    PITOT TUBE TUBING

    If you are using the G3X with the AOA pitot tube, then you will need to install the pitot tube bracket and the green and blue pitot tubes. Look at the "EXECUTIVE GLASS" manual in Dropbox, Page 34 to see the info. The actual “Mast” part of the Garmin GAP26 AOA pitot tube you will put in your “little parts to be painted” box and will install it into the bracket here .....through an inspection hole behind the spar here after you get your wings installed and are finishing up.

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    The difference is that with the EX3 that has the solid nose skins from top to bottom of the front spar, we have to install nutplates into the spar to screw the pitot tube bracket into. It has the 4 NARROW holes about 72" from the center hole of the front spar attach fitting in bay #5. There are 4 other holes drilled for nutplates already out in bay #6 but we are not going to use this. The factory mounts their ADHRS unit here and we will mount ours in the boot cowl.

    If your spar is not predrilled for the nutplates, it probably just has the 1 center hole pre-drilled like in the photos below. Use the nutplate tool I recommended in the first post about tools and it makes it much easier to drill out the #40 holes on either side of the big holes that are pre-drilled.

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    You can see here that there is a big knob in the middle that you put in the big, center hole to drill your first hole.

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    After you have drilled the first hole on one side, then flip the tool over and put the big knob in the center hole again and the small knob/pin will go into the hole you just drilled. Then just drill the 2nd hole and your nut plate will fit perfect.

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    LANDING LIGHTS

    The manual say to prep the landing light housings by installing the nutplates but I think they come from the factory now with the nutplates installed. You do need to cut the 1/8" or so off either side of the housing to give you some room to fit it just right. I use the dremel tool with cutoff plate. NOTE: When I cut or sand on carbon fiber, I always do it in front of a fan with the fan blowing from behind me. That keeps the carbon fiber dust blowing away from me all the time and that way I don't bother wearing a mask, gloves, etc. You will have to do both left and right light housing this way.

    Once it's trimmed, put in on the inboard side of the #6 rib (in the #5 bay.) Your wires should be coming out in that bay. Just put a strip of wide masking tape along the bottom of the nose ribs there and set it on that. You just need to hold it up in place for now as we will fit it later after installing the leading edge skins.

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    NOW SINCE I DON'T HAVE ANY LEADING EDGE SKIN CLAMPS, I AM GOING TO FINISH DOING WHAT I CAN ON THIS WING AND THEN START ON THE RIGHT WING AND GET IT TO THE SAME POINT. THEN I WILL GET THE LEADING EDGE SKIN CLAMPS FROM SOMEONE AND POP THE SKINS ON BOTH WINGS AT THE SAME TIME. IT WILL ONLY TAKE A FEW HOURS TO DO BOTH WINGS. THIS WAY, I'M NOT HOLDING UP SOMEONE ELSE WHO MIGHT NEED THE CLAMPS.

    We will come back later and install the leading edge skins and then we can run the cables/pulleys; install the wing tip bow and fuel tanks. So I will skip on in the manual and do what we can for now.

    INSTALLING THE FAIRLEADS.

    I use to HATE doing these. Once I finally figured it out, it was very easy. It's hard to explain and I can't take a photo since you need both hands but I will try and explain. Note on page 197, Section 50 and Fig. W76 that there are 2 sizes of fairlead we will use. 1 is thicker than the other and you will see that it goes in all 3 of the double ribs we did (Ribs #1,3,5) and the other is a thinner one that goes into ribs 4,6,7 & 8.

    First take the fairlead and be sure you are holding it completely through the rib so that the groove that we will be putting the snap ring into is completely visible on the side of the rib we will be putting the ring on.

    P1050588.jpg

    I use my left index and middle fingers on the back side to hold constant pressure on it because the secret is to be sure that groove stays completely through the rib. In this photo, the only thing I could not do (since I had to hold the camera) was to put my left thumb on the left END of the snap ring (up at the top left in the photo) and take some good pliers and hold the opposite end of the snap ring as shown.

    Be SURE that the left end that you have your thumb on is into the groove and KEEP IT THERE WITH YOUR THUMB. Then keeping constant HARD pressure from the backside and on your thumb, twist the pliers in a counter clockwise (left) direction while pushing it towards the rib. Work on getting the bottom of the ring into the groove (while keeping the end under your thumb in the groove as well). With practice, it will just snap right into the groove enough for you to turn loose of the pliers and then usually the very right, top end (the end you had the pliers on) may still stick up a little onto the fairlead but you can just use the end of the pliers to push it on over into the groove. Practice makes perfect and you will have plenty to do on the wings and on the fuselage. Good luck. I had more cussing from trying to do these I think than any other part of the build!! But now I just snap them right on....so it will work!


    LEADING EDGE SKIN PREP

    This consist of installing the nutplates in the bay #1 leading edge skins. I like using the pop rivets HDW-04-0981 instead of squeezing because it's easier and leave a better looking surface usually. Also, I don't use a dimpler to countersink the holes but use my microstop countersink tool instead.

    Take a fat sharpie and mark the centerline of each nose rib. Be sure it's in the center and very visible. Later we are going to drill holes in the skins and then look through the hole and make sure we see this sharpie line through the hole before we drill through it to install the rivets. This is like we did the tail ribs on the flap false spar.

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    Last edited by Daveembry; 06-14-2018 at 07:47 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  4. #14
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WING BUILD

    Outboard ribs and cross brace.

    The manual is pretty straight forward here. Note in the picture how the diagonal cross brace goes through the outboard tail rib. It is riveted to the bottom of the rear spar 4.1" in from the end and this rivet is installed now. The other end of the brace will go about 3.1" in from the end of the machined rib BUT DON'T INSTALL IT NOW. It will be installed later after the tip bow is installed which can't be done until we install the leading edge skins.

    P1050591.jpg

    At this point I will stop on this left wing and put it into my wing stand and go ahead and start on the right wing. Then I'll come back and we'll go over installing the leading edge skins; tip bow; fuel tanks, pulleys and cables and we're done.

    NOTE: We will need to get a set of the leading edge skin clamps to install the leading edge skins. CubCrafters built 22 set of these clamps for use among the builders but now they have almost all seemed to have disappeared. Mitch is shipping me 5 sets of "parts" for the clamp sets and I agreed to put them together and make them available for others to use but what everyone should do is to not ask for a set of clamps until BOTH WINGS are complete to that point and ready to install leading edge skins. Then you can spend just a few hours and get the skins installed on both wings and then ship the clamps out to someone else. PLEASE don't get these clamps and then just sit on them when there are builders out there who actually are ready for them now and can't get anyone to turn loose of a set.

    You can complete the build on the wings for everything except just installing the fuel tanks, tip bow, pulleys and cables without having the leading edge skins on. Once the first wing is finished, just move it to your wing stand you should have built. You can see here that I just put a piece of scrap metal (aluminum) in the wing stand that you can set the leading edge nose skins down in.


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    You can see that with the wing stand, (with wheels on the bottom) you can just have plenty of room to move around the 2nd wing build and when you need more room, just roll it over.

    At this point I have a total of 29 hours and 40 minutes on this wing.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 06-18-2018 at 10:29 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  5. #15
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WING BUILD - RIGHT WING

    The right wing is of course the same as the left with a couple of things.

    If you are installing the Executive Glass panel, then you will be installing the magnetometer in the outside end of the rear, right hand wing spar. Right now we are only going to assemble the bracket that will hold it. Don't install the actual magnetometer into the bracket and/or wing now as it is very sensitive and they have had problems with some getting damaged during construction, so we will install it at the very end of the build after the wings are on.

    The details are in the Executive Glass manual in dropbox on page 32 & 33. Right now we are just going to take the 2 halves of the aluminum bracket and rivet them together. Not that the half that has the shorter, lower back piece (the half that will go on the bottom ) will go on the INSIDE of the other bracket (the one that will be on top).

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    You will note the top bracket actually has the 3 holes in the bracket countersunk already. We will install the rivets MS20436A3-3 (NOTE: The manual has this wrong as it says MS20436A-3) See page 33, top, center figure (Section E-E figure). That figure is hard to understand and actually looks wrong unless you visualize it. Imagine you are standing BEHIND, (in the back of the wing) looking forward. This view is a "cut-away view" showing the bracket as it sits up against the back of the rear spar with the front part and side of the bracket gone. The Figure "Section D-D) is easier to see it. You can see the top piece is OVER the bottom piece where it connects at the back where it attaches to the spar.

    Anyway, just squeeze those 3 rivets joining the 2 pieces at the back and then using Section D-D figure, put 2 of the MS20470A3-3 rivets on each side of the brackets as shown.


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    You will see here where it mounts onto the outside of the rear spar. There are 2 pre-drilled holes in the rear spar out in the 10th bay (between Rib 10 & 11). You can just double check that the holes in your bracket lines up perfectly with the spar holes. It would be hard later to have to go in and match drill if it isn't right. The screws MS35214-27 that should be in the kit parts that came in the "pre-cover" parts.....can be used to double check. NOTE that all the hardware used in and around the magnetometer are non-ferrous (non-magnetic) materials and you should never use a screwdriver with a magnetic tip when working around the magnetometer. These screws are black, brass screws you will notice (as all of them used here will be).

    Once you've check that the holes aligned correctly, just put the bracket and hardware that goes with it in your "Finish" box as this is all we will do right now.

    We will also have to install the wiring harness for the magnetometer along the BACK, outboard side of the REAR spar per the figure on Page 32 of the Exec. Glass manual. It's best to do this per the manual and run them after installing the nose and tail ribs because you will have rivets going into that spar slot and you would have to be careful and don't get into the wire.

    The end with the connector already installed should go out on the spar at the magnetometer mounting location. The wiring harness should include the connector that you will have to put the pins into at the wing root end. You can go ahead now and install those pins into the connector according to the wiring diagram on page 33. This is a bit confusing because there are probably 2 WHITE WIRES...... The WHITE WIRE that is THICKER is normally used as the JUMPER WIRE. This last harness I got they had actually made the JUMPER a white/black wire. If you look closely at the wire where they are connected by the factory, you can see where they have attached a wire to the outside shield wire of the main wire coming from the magnetometer. That is the JUMPER wire...it's just connecting that outer shield from wire to wire.

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    So look at the back of the black connector they sent you and you will see the holes are numbered. You can see where I drew a picture of the connector next to the wiring diagram in the manual. It shows you where the pin holes are as you are looking into the connector and shows which wires go into which pin hole.

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    Before you start, slide on the back of the black connector over all the wires and push it up out of the way. We will put this on after we put all the wires/pins in place.

    Slip 1 pin into the correct hole in the connector and push in gently until you hear and feel it snap into place. You will see there are 2 main wires coming from the magnetometer out on the wing. 1 only has 3 wires and the other has 4. Pay attention to which of the wires you use to put into the pins because each of them has a white; white/blue; white/black, etc. Here you can see I have the white wire from the "3 wire" and connecting it into the #4 pin.

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    Push back up the black cover that you put on before putting the pins in black and secure with the 2 screws and small cover plate it came with and you are done. You can silicone the wires into the rear spar rear channel as well.
    Last edited by Daveembry; Yesterday at 12:04 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  6. #16
    Senior Member ceslaw's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Excellent summaries! Valuable resource.

    Makes me want to build another . . . . . .

  7. #17
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Thanks Chuck. Glad to give back a little. What you guys did with your "Chuck and Ryans Build" thread was a huge help to me and many others!

    Quote Originally Posted by ceslaw View Post
    Excellent summaries! Valuable resource.

    Makes me want to build another . . . . . .
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

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