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Thread: <Archive Thread> Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

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  1. #19
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WIRING

    NOTE: If you happen to download a previous version of the chart from this post prior to Jan 4, 2023 then delete that and re-download the latest version with a few changes to include the new modular panel and the IRF panel.)

    NOTE: There are 2 very good videos I did of the wiring and I have them on my Youtube channel. Here are the links:

    This is the link to the first link on wiring:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIla88WwLp0&t=18s

    This is the 2nd video going over all the wiring all bundled up once complete:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1quxr-BHTQQ&t=13s

    I have attached to this post an Excel spreadsheet that will pretty much be all you will need to install the harnesses. NOTE THAT THIS IS FOR THE EX3 AND IS DIFFERENT FROM THE EX2 (mostly because the electric fuel pump was added) YOU CAN USE THIS FOR THE EX2 BUT JUST BE AWARE OF THIS DIFFERENCE.

    Here's how it works. After we lay out the harnesses, we will simply grab a wire and look at the number (numbers and letters) on the end of the wire. Then simply go to the spreadsheet and find that wire number in the left column and then in the column next to it, see where it connects to. As I find and connect a wire, I mark it off the spreadsheet and then when finished, I look back and be sure all the wires are accounted for. This chart is for my panels which include the G3X Touch, Garmin 200 radio with the control head in the panel; 345R transponder with ADSB-In and Out (this is the remote unit); Garmin 307 autopilot with the control head in the panel and with 2 servos for pitch and roll. It does have the GAP26 AOA pitot; outside temp probe; and trim position sensor. If you equipment is different, then the configuration and wires will be different.


    ( Feb., 2022) NOTE: IF YOU ARE INSTALLING AN IFR PANEL WITH THE GNC 355; GAD 29; GTR 20; GMA245R AND G5, THEN HERE ARE SOME ADDITIONAL CONFIG SETTINGS YOU WILL NEED TO DO.


    There is not enough room in this post to include it here so I will post these changes in the very next post.



    MODIFICATIONS FOR THE NEW "MODULAR PANEL"


    NOTE: Aug. 2020. If you have the new MODULAR PANEL with the cut-out for the G5, there are only a few changes and re-routing and I will post them here.

    Be sure and download the MODULAR PANEL SUPPLEMENT in Dropbox for the schematics. It's the same system as the original except that some of the buses/circuit breakers/ switches have been moved to different locations. The wiring harnesses remained the same, so some of the wires in the harness are short so they have included replacement wires.

    Here is a list of things I found that you have to do different. Some of these are on the Supplement and some not. Pay attention to these items to change but otherwise, the instructions and wiring chart of mine is the same. Essentially, the locations of some of the parts have moved so some of the bus power wires have changed and some extensions used.

    NOTE
    : Many panels come from the factory with the power wires (bus interconnects) pre-wired. I have noticed that they don't necessarily use the same wire numbers that are listed in the manuals or below in my post. The important thing is to follow the power routing (as I explain later) from the SHUNT and then from there that power flows to each "bus" and powered switch or circuit breaker ...as required.

    1) There should be SK71051-003 BUS Interconnects in the kit. These are some longer wires, etc. to reach between the buses (the copper bar where the power distribution goes). MB41A10 In the SUPPLEMENT see that this goes from the bus bars of the Main Bus 1 (PFD, GEA, GSU) to Main Bus 2 (AUX FUEL PUMP, R IGN BAT). You will note on the original wiring schematics and my wiring chart that MB09A10 was shown as connecting the RH MAIN bus bar (PFD, etc) to the LH MAIN bus bar (FIELD, etc) is now NOT USED.

    2. A09A20O is just a longer version of the same wire that comes in your kit. It runs from MASTER SWITCH to the FIELD CB. It needs to be on the same side (left to right) on the MASTER SWITCH and OPPOSITE (top to bottom) of A09B20O wire.

    3. AB99A12. If you look on the MODULAR SUPPLEMENT, this connect the bus bar of the AVIONICS 1 BUS (COMM, XPDR, GMC) to AVIONICS 2 BUS which would be for the GAD and NAV2 IF YOU HAVE THOSE. I don't have those in my panel so this bus is missing and I don't use this wire. But if you do, this will bring power to that bus.

    4. MB43A12 new wire will connect the MAIN BUS 2 (AUX FUEL, R IGN BAT) to MAIN BUS 3 ​(EXT, IBBS, FIELD) bus bars.

    5. There is SK71051-002 IGN LED Extension parts. Since these lights are moved from the right side to the left, these are just extension wires for IG07A22G and IG07B22G. NOTE: These wires are probably NOT LABELED as they are so small I guess but these 2 wires are the ones coming out of the OUTPUT Connectors on the RIGHT & LEFT IGNITION BOXES.

    These wires are probably a black (or yellow) and a white one. The Black one should come out of the LEFT IGNITON BOX OUTPUT CONNECTOR and connects to the IGO7A22G wire which then goes along with A12A22G and solders into the IGNITION RIGHT light in the instrument panel. That is the one that has the RED wire coming out of the RIGHT LED.

    The White wire should be coming out of the RIGHT IGNITION BOX and connects to the IGO7B22G extension wire that goes with the A12B22G wire which then gets soldered to the IGNITION LEFT LIGHT (has RED wire coming from the LEFT LIGHT LED in the panel)

    6. There is an extra wire GSA08A22 which is probably an extension for the ground wire coming out of the 307 Autopilot head but I didn't have to use it. The original wire in the 307 Harness reached a ground just fine.

    7. If you have the Autopilot and Garmin 307 head installed, you will notice that the MODULAR SUPPLEMENT does not address it at all. You will notice in the original schematics and panel that wire MB11B12 went from the AVIONICS BUS to the SERVO SWITCH but in the MODULAR layout, it goes instead to the AV SWITCH instead of the SERVO SWITCH.

    8. Since the MB11B12 that originally went to the SERVO SWITCH was relocated to the AV SWITCH, we need to run wire to the servo switch. There is a schematic update in progress that shows a 14 gauge short jumper wire from the avionics bus to the SERVOS SWITCH. It will be labeled GSA10A14.

    9. In the G3X Harness, there is a wire IG08C20O that originally went from the R IGN CB when it was located on the right, upper side of the panel with the other end being connected to the MAIN BUS. BUT, on the MODULAR PANEL, this wire will not be used so can be capped & stowed or discarded. The MODULAR SUPPLEMENT shows that that same wire comes out of the R. Ignition Emergency Switch and connects just below it into the R IGN CB. So connect IG08C20O from the Emergency Switch to the R Ign CB and discard that wire in the harness.

    10. AB42A18 in the original G3X Harness is also NOT USED. Cap & Stow Originally it went from AVIONIC BUS to AVIONICS SWITCH.


    NON-MODULAR PANEL WIRING (Original panel that does NOT have the G5 cutout on the left side)

    If you do NOT have the newer, "Modular Panel", then follow the instructions below.

    The spreadsheet is broken down into AREAS of the aircraft where the wire is located like "LEFT HEADER PANEL"; "THROUGH THE FIREWALL"; "UNDER THE BOOT COWL" and "UNDER SEAT WIRING". So just go to appropriate area to find the wire you have and connect it where it says to.

    Start by installing the power wires that go under the seat (the big white wires, etc) and then run the left and right header panel harnesses and then the big G3X harness last.

    Note that "normally", the factory will install many of the wires that are on the main instrument panel that connect buses, etc. but on my latest one they did not, so I had to connect those.

    Let me first discuss some of the basics:

    NOTE: If you have the new MODULAR PANEL, the buses are a little different as I explained above.

    1. A "BUS" is a strip of copper that you will see attached to the tops (or bottom of light bus) of several circuit breakers or switches in the panel. It's purpose is to provide power to all those CB's or switches it's connected to. You will always need 1 wire attached to the top of each "bus" that is bringing in power. It does NOT matter which breaker you install it to on the "bus" since the power will go via the copper bar to all the breakers or switches.
    a. The Lighting Bus is the short bus connecting only the 2 NAV and STROBE light switches.
    b. The LH Main Bus (See page 9 of the Exec. Glass Manual) connects 3 CB's of EXT, IBBS & FLD breakers.
    c. The RH MAIN BUS connects 4 CB's of FUEL PUMP, PFD, GSU & GEA.
    d. The AVIONICS BUS connects GMC, COM & XPND CB's. (See page 9)
    3. The EXTENDED BUS is the bus bar up in the LEFT HEADER PANEL that connects the START, STALL, TRIM & LANDING CB's.

    NOTE: This last kit I got had the EXTENDED BUS PLACARD WRONG. It had "INTERCOM" on the aft breaker and it will actually be used for the START wiring. If yours is labeled like this, get MITCH to send you a correct placard. The wiring in the wiring chart is correct for this.......just the placard is wrong. ALSO, you will note on Page 9 of the manual, it shows the START breaker on the RH MAIN BUS but that really is the FUEL PUMP breaker and not the START BREAKER. My placards was correct in labeling this but make this correction in your manual. (Upper left of page).

    ALSO, disregard much of the PAGE 4 schematics in the upper, left side showing the buses. This is not for the G3X so if you have the G3X, disregard most of these diagrams and instead refer to the schematics starting on PAGE 9 and labeled as "1 of 5" SCHEMATIC, EXECUTIVE GLASS TOUCH DISPLAY SYSTEM.

    When wiring in circuit breakers ("CB's), the wires will attach to the side of the breakers opposite of the copper bus bar.

    When wiring in SWITCHES, it doesn't matter which side of the switch you put the wires on. You can put them on the top or bottom (one wire will always be a power wire and one wire going to the item) of the switch. It it send power to the item when the switch closes the circuit.

    Look starting at page 7 in the Exec. Glass Manual to see where the harnesses go. All the ground under the seat that have a BIG terminal ring will go to that ground and all the grounds up front under the boot cowl will go to any of the 4 screws you installed on the 2 ground plates there. You will find they do an excellent job with these harnesses with the wire lengths all going perfectly to the area they are suppose to go to, to get hooked up. If something isn't fitting right, check your harness layout again. (except the wires going to the ADAHRS. You will find they are Waaaay too long and you'll have to just wrap them up somewhere. At the factory, they put the ADAHRS unit out in the wing for some reason, so the harness is too long for us as we put it in the tray.)

    Don't tie wrap anything until you are completely finished. Use some tape if you need to for now to hold things in place. When we are completely finished, we'll go and bundle the wires up nice and neat and tie wrap. We will probably have to relocate or re-route some to make it neater.

    So I'm starting with SC70300-003 Integrated Harness Representation, Belly. There are the 2 big power wires going to the battery (one red and one black ends that will go up and connect to the battery) and a couple smaller wires that are separate.

    Grab the positive cable and you will see it is Labeled P01A04W. Next look at the wiring chart on page 6 for UNDER SEAT WIRING and look in the left column and you will see this number as the 2nd one down the list. Go to the right and it says "master solenoid on 1 side and to the POS battery terminal on other end". The MASTER SOLENOID is the one on the left side and the STARTER SOLENOID is the one on the right side. Remember, don't tighten any of the nuts yet. There are more wires coming......

    NOTE: I would do it different than I did in the photo here. I would attach the POSITIVE cable (P01A04W) on the RIGHT or forward side of the Master Solenoid just because later you have to attach a shorter wire from the other (Negative) side of the Master Solenoid to the 40amp fuse and it's just easier if that shorter wire is on the LEFT or AFT side of the solenoid. So put the positive battery lead on the right and the negative on the left and the other wires will also move in relation to the photo but the written description here is still good.

    The other big, white wire is P06A04W. You will see it goes to "1 end to ground - other to Neg side of battery". So it connects to the big ground screw there under the belly.

    The battery will go into the box with the RED, POSITIVE terminal on the RIGHT side and the NEGATIVE on the LEFT, so when you temporarily route the cable and stick them up through the battery box, just keep that in mind.

    The small wire PO4A20O has a big and a small ring. The big ring end goes onto the master solenoid on the same stud you put the positive, red battery wire on and the small ring end goes on the same master solenoid but on the small post on the opposite side of the solenoid from the positive side.

    The next wire you will see is P04B20O. The end with the black shrink wrap on it and small ring goes on the same small stud on the master solenoid that you just put the small ring end of the P04A20O above and the big ring end goes to the ground lug.

    It's a simple as that.

    Next I grab the SC70300-006 Solenoid harness. It has 1 longer white wire and 2 small wires and rubber boots. The big wire is P01C04W and the chart shows it goes to one side of the STARTER SOLENOID (the one on the right)r then route the rest of that long wire that will go to the starter, out the left side and up about halfway to the top of the fuse and outside the fuse....and then forward out the front past the firewall location. We'll run this wire through the firewall later and to the starter motor.

    A bit confusing might be the small jumper wire in this harness. 1 end is black shrink wrap and the other is red. First just install it onto the 2 small terminals on the starter solenoid, 1 end on each post. Then the charts shows that the small ring end of P05B20O goes onto the same small terminal post that you put the black, negative end of the small jumper wire on and the other end with the big ring goes to the ground bolt.

    Here is a pic of what we have so far....


    P1060225.jpg


    SC70300-901 Harness, Common goes up to the left wing root/header panel with a few wires going down under the seat and SC70300-101 Harness, CC11-160 has wires that go up into the right wing root; some that also go down under the seat. Look at the wiring chart to see which ones go under the seat.

    SK77312-001 Trim System Harness. This harness use to actually come in the Finish Kit for some reason. On my current build, I didn't get it at all. You will need to run the switch end up to the left header panel and the rest of the wires under the seat. If your header isn't drilled, you will have to drill (step drill) a 1/2" hole. I put it horizontally inline with the other holes (don't get any higher because it may interfere with the flap rod later) and about 1.75" forward of the "Pilot ANR" hole. If you have the new modular panel header, it might have a pre-cut square hole with 2 screw holes. This is for a dual USB. If you don't want it, get a cover plate from CC to cover that hole.

    Install this switch with the side that has "2-1" written on it......UP.

    At this point, I would connect every wire you can before laying out the main G3X harness so it's easier to get to all the wires, etc.

    LIGHTING WIRES TO LIGHT SWITCH
    . The 3 wires coming from the tail and each wing will be connected to the 3 white, plastic connectors with all blue wires coming out of the light switch. You will have to insert the male pins into the separate housing for the wire coming from the tail (LB15A18W-4; LB12A22W-4 and LB13A22W-4). It was impossible for me to see in the schematics how to put the pins in, by color because all the wires are blue so nothing to "match up with". So, for that LB15 wire from the tail, I just looked at the other 2 wires that came with the plastic housing already installed and did the same color match up as those were. It doesn't matter which of the blue wire connectors you attach these individual wires too.....they all do the same thing. So just grab a blue wire connector and attach one of these to it.

    Note that in several harnesses, I had a LB14A20W-2 but in this last harness, that wire was labeled as LB01A20W-2. In any case, you will know which wire it is because it has 1 female pin attached to it already. It comes from the left wing landing lights. You will insert that male pin into the plastic, 2 pin housing that is coming down from the right wing landing light and then connect that housing to the 2 pin female housing coming from the landing light switch.

    Lastly, run the main wiring harness SC71357-001 G3Xt Harness. Just lay it up on top of the fuse forward of the instrument panel and looking at the wiring diagram and schematics, you will see which end goes right and left.

    If you have the G3X you will have to run the MAGNETOMETER wire up to the rear of the right header panel. It will connect later to the wire you put in the right wing and it's at the back spar so just run it to the rear of that panel. This wire is part of the main G3X Harness but will have the round plug on it.

    The same with the OUTSIDE TEMP PROBE except it will go to the front of the left header panel. This is a separate wire and not integrated into the system. The wiring chart explains where to hook it up to.

    P01C04W is a big, white wire that is very long and goes through the firewall to the starter. You see on the chart it goes "starter wire from large terminal on starter solenoid opposite P01B04W". So connect it to the opposite side that of the starter solenoid (the right one) from the P01B04W wire. Then route this wire through the left side floorboard with the rest of the wires and then up about halfway before heading it towards the firewall like in this photo.


    P1020387.jpg

    There is a short, white wire P03B10BK that goes from the 40 amp fuse holder (it the fuse holder and fuse should be in one of the G3X Totes) to the opposite side of the of the master solenoid from the positive battery. This wire is in a separate plastic bag and not in a harness.

    Also there is another short, white, BIG 04 gauge wire that jumps over from the master to the starter solenoid you will see on the spreadsheet, P01B04W. I was missing this big wire in the kit so be sure you check for it. It's a large gauge wire the size of the ones going to the battery.

    To install this trim box, you need a file that is usually in DropBox, Misc. files called EX3 TRIM HARNESS INSTALLATION. Right now it isn’t in there but I asked Mitch to add it. Here is a photo of the copy I have. (UPDATE: Mitch added this drawing to the dropbox file but it is different than the one pictured below. It shows a detail of where to drill the hole so ignore this and use the one in dropbox.)

    The black box plugs into the wiring harness under the seat and mounts to the side of the seat base per this figure. Also, you can see in the lower right detail in the drawing where to drill the 5/8" (0.625) hole that goes through the seat base in the back, left to run the rear stick wire. The grommet should be MS35489-40.

    P1060226.jpg


    Attachment 8771


    P1060228.jpg


    P1060229.jpg


    You will see 2 wires with solder sleeves on them coming out of the wire bundle with the front stick connector and labeled "white" and "White/Blu". They will solder to MB21B22W-2 wire that is coming down from the mic plugs in the left header. If you follow the bundle of wires down from that header panel you will see one, 2-wire (white) wire split off at the left A-pillar. That is the wire that will go down and connect to these 2 wires. If you peel the white cover back you should see a white and a white/blue wire there under some outer shielding (which you just cut away.).

    It shows here also where and how you attach the black trim box to the seat base with 2 screws as well as drilling the hole for the rear stick connector cable and grommet to use. Note that “NOTE 2” in the upper right corner about cutting the molex away that exposes MB21B22W-2 wire that we spoke about above, is incorrect. Disregard that and refer to my remarks instead. That doesn't apply to the EX3 because the EX3 is standard with both front and rear trim control so this change isn't necessary. It comes pre-wired in the harness with that wire as I described.

    RIGHT HEADER PANEL

    There is only 1 wire connection to be made in the right header area as you can see on the chart. You have to solder 1 wire coming out of the connector to the wire with the crimp sleeve already on it coming out of the light. Then there is 1 female pin on it. Just plug that pin into the 3 hole connector (that is missing 1 pin) coming out of the light. The rest are made to the wires coming out of the wing that you will connect later when the wings are installed.


    P1060231.jpg


    P1060232.jpg

    LEFT HEADER PANEL

    If you are not installing the USB plug into this panel then you need to use XC23021-001 USB Plug (Cover Plate) using 2 of the MS57861-14C Self Tapping Screws (See Exec. Glass Manual, Page 25.) These screws were NOT in the kit anywhere so will need to request or obtain them.

    ALSO, my last few Left Header Panels have not had the TRIM PRIORITY SWITCH hole in the panel so it will need to be drilled out and the switch installed along with the placard. Look at the Exec. Glass Manual, Page 31; Detail A. Drill a 0.50" hole 3.25" from the center of the hole for the fuel gauge to go through and make it in line with the other holes pre-drilled on the panel and then install the trim priority switch in that hole.

    You will need to install the headphone, mic, Bose, etc. jacks into the header panel. It will look something like this after you make your connections per the chart. Then there is a ground wire on a black wire on the aft end of all this. It will go onto one of the screws you mount the window frame on later....it's a ground. There are several wires that go to the circuit breakers as shown on the wiring chart.


    P1060233.jpg


    P1060234.jpg


    P1060235.jpg


    TRANSPONDER PIN CONNECTOR FOR 345R.

    The transponder should be mounted in the tray when you receive it from CC. However, there is a separate backing plate that you first have to mount onto the back of the tray itself before installing the transponder.

    If you look at the transponder (the 345R) it will have 2 antenna connections on the back that we will use but you will notice they are not the correct fitting on them. The correct fittings are actually on that separate backing plate so here is what you do.

    First, on the actual pin connector in the wiring harness (P3251), remove the 2 small screws on the back on the connector, then take the connector and install it onto the actual backing plate using those 2 screws you removed.

    So now you have the pin connector on the backing plate. Now, there should have been 4 small screws attached (plastic bag) to the backing plate. Take those and you will see 4 small screw holes in that backing plate that they will fit into. Start screwing each screw into the backing plate from the backside....which would be the AFT side when installed in the transponder tray. Then you will see on the actual tray holder for the transponder in the back.......4 slotted holes for these screws. Just put the backing plate (with the 4 partially screwed in screws) into the slotted holes and slide to the side so they are in the small section of the slots and then tighten the screws down from inside the tray until tight.

    Now you can install the transponder into the tray again. You may have to loosen the adjusting screw on the bottom enough so it will slide in before tightening. Be sure and be careful inserting the transponder into the pins that are now on the pin connector that is attached to that backing plate......wiggle it and be sure the pins are going into the transponder correctly before tightening and don't force it or you will bend a pin (ask me how I know!!).

    Then just tighten that mounting screw on the bottom until snug.

    This is also true for the Comm Radio as well except it is a little different you will see.


    P1060239.jpg
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Daveembry; 04-01-2023 at 06:52 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

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