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Thread: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

  1. #41
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Dave:

    This is perfect. This is the part I'm working on now and a lot more makes sense.

    But to clarify, I don't need to round off the two baggage door extensions, as shown in the pictures?

    Thanks a bunch for your help and insight.

    Macon

  2. #42
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    That's correct Macon....just use it like it comes. Don't know why they "use" to round them off anyway....

    Quote Originally Posted by Macon View Post
    Dave:

    This is perfect. This is the part I'm working on now and a lot more makes sense.

    But to clarify, I don't need to round off the two baggage door extensions, as shown in the pictures?

    Thanks a bunch for your help and insight.

    Macon
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  3. #43
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    THROTTLE QUADRANTS

    This is a fun little project but a little confusing.

    I start by getting all the main parts together and then I take a silver sharpie and I write the part numbers on the larger, black parts as I take them out of the plastic bags so I can see the part numbers as I put the puzzle together.

    I separate the parts into the front and the rear and work on 1 at a time.

    Notice on the Fig. FS26 that the 2 main areas are the bottom and the top parts of the FRONT quadrant, because it is different and a bit more complicated than the rear because there are 2 screws everything mounts onto at the bottom of the quadrant and the rear is just 1.

    So lay the parts out and then build them on the bench first and then tape them together (so they don't all fall apart as you take them to the fuse and install them). The front one is harder because you can build the aft section of the lower part (with the screw you get from the kit) but you have to assemble the parts onto the forward bolt (of the lower part) that is welded into the fuse. So you put the rear part and the top parts together on the bench and then go to the fuse and start installing it but you will have to put the parts together on that front bolt (including the throttle and prop handles).

    Here is my figure notes on the front showing the BOTTOM OF QUADRANT and the TOP OF QUADRANT.

    P1050924.jpg

    P1050925.jpg

    Here are photos of the quadrants installed. These are the front one first.

    P1050915.jpg

    P1050916.jpg

    P1050917.jpg

    P1050918.jpg

    P1050919.jpg

    Here are photos of the rear quadrant.

    P1050920.jpg

    P1050921.jpg

    P1050922.jpg

    P1050923.jpg


    NOTE that I had to eliminate the AN416L washer on the outside of the bolt on the bottom of the rear quadrant (the one that uses the castle nut). With the washer, you could not get the cotter pin installed without having to tighten the nut far too tight.

    I also take a qtip dipped in white grease after I'm finished and swab it in between the plastic parts that the throttle and prop handles slide on. You can put the knobs on the handles for now if you want but they will have to come off later when you install the interior panel over the top.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 09-04-2018 at 01:20 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  4. #44
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    STRINGERS

    The stringers are not as hard as they are made out to be. Remember, the purpose of them is to simply hold the fabric out away from the fuse tubes so you just want to put them in the correct places and then use your "eyeball" to see if they are straight (from front to aft) and not bowed out when you look DOWN on onto it from above.

    First just put the stringers where they HAVE to go on the fuse.....which is on the aft "tubes" (2 on each side in the rear); 2 on the right front end and 1 on the left front end.. Just use a spring clamp to clamp it into place there to start with and another clamp towards the front somewhere just to hold it in place until you can measure the front for the location.

    P1050931.jpg

    Next measure up from the BOTTOM of the fuse tube up for the various stringers (14-1/2" to the center of the upper; 7-5/8" at the middle, left side, etc etc per the manual). Once I have the front and the rear in the locations they must go, I just stand back and "eyeball" the outside, center point of the stringers and see if they look straight. String lines don't really work that well because of the bow. Just look at it and go down the stringer and place a couple more spring clamps on the tabs that mount onto the fuse tubes. Keep "eyeballing" and adjusting those center clamps up and down until it looks nice and straight to you.

    P1050926.jpg

    Next, just look along the stringer and make sure none of the clamps locations you used (don't put clamps on every single tab or tube, just use enough to hold it up and straight) aren't PULLING the stringer in too hard against the fuse. If it is, take it off and put in on another tube and let the stringer come on out to it's natural position. If you are having put a lot of pressure on the stringer to make it go in and touch the fuse tube, you will be making it BOWED in and you don't want to do that. As the manual says, leave it out and use the meth to fill the gaps between the stringer tabs and the fuse tubes up to 3/8" so the stringer stays straight and not bowed in. See the photo below. In this example, I will NOT push the stringer in, but instead just fill this gap with meth when I bond them all.

    P1050929.jpg


    After they all LOOK good to you, then take a silver sharpie marker and mark where each tab contacts the tube it will attach to like this. This is so when we take the stringer off to scuff the fuse tubes and apply the meth, we can easily just line it back up where we have determined it sits best.

    P1050927.jpg

    Where each stringer meets the posts on the fuse in the rear and front, take a straight edge and hold it along the stringer over to the main tube next to it and be sure it's flush (or slightly inside the straight edge). If the end of the stringer is sticking OUT then you will need to sand the inside of it to make it fit more flush. Remember, we are just making it look good so imagine the fabric is stretched across the stringer to the fuse tube next to it and you don't want it to protrude out and make it look bad. It's all about looks here. Just visualize the fabric and where it will touch the fuse/stringers, etc and be sure it will look good.

    P1050932.jpg
    Here you can see where this stringer end will stick out and needs to be sanded on the inside.


    P1050928.jpg
    This one looks good to go.

    Once it's all good, remove the stringers and scuff the fuse per the manual and clean it and then apply the meth. No need to put more spring clamps on than the small number you used when you straightened it out. In fact, you should just put the spring clamps on the tabs that meet the tubes flush when you align them and then use the same places to put the clamps back on when you meth it.

    Don't worry about the bottom stringers in the front section (both right and left sides) where the end sticks out. We will address these ends much later on page 172 of the manual when we install the side fabric spacers.

    P1050933.jpg


    SEAT BASE (Page 91)

    THE SEAT BASE ACTUALLY SCRATCHES VERY EASILY, SO IT'S IMPORTANT TO KEEP IT PROTECTED WHILE WORKING ON IT. I use shop towels, etc to lay on it while I'm working.

    Not that figure FS29 shows using a nut part MS21083-N3. If you look on your tote part list that this number is an "alternate Part Number" in the 2nd column from the left and the Manufacturer Part number (far left column) is actually AN364-1032A lock nut.

    Also, the seat base reinforcement rails are part numbers SC22103-001 (left outside) is countersunk. SC22103-003 are 2 of the parts for the inside of the seat base and are NOT countersunk and SC22103-002 (right outside) is SUPPOSE to be countersunk and mine was not. I went ahead and countersunk the holes myself, no big deal....but just note that you might have the same problem.

    There is no callout for the screws to be used either and they should be AN507C1032R10.

    P1050936.jpg


    BATTERY BOX INSTALLATION

    I want to skip ahead here and go ahead and install the battery box. It's MUCH easier to drill and rivet now instead of later on the finish doing this with the floorboard already installed.

    Go to the FINISH MANUAL, Page 82 and Fig FN22 (and the rest of the description and photos there) and install the hardware now (nutplates) and then remove the box and set it aside until the finish. I put all the screws/washers in a small ziplock, label it and tape it to the battery box and set it aside. NOTE THAT THE FIGURE IS WRONG with the number of parts needed. There are 7 holes so you need 7 screws; 7 washers; 7 nutplates and 14 rivets to install the nutplates.

    This is where an inspection mirror works well so you can look up into the top of the seat base as you install the nutplates (so you can see that your rivets are going through the holes in the nutplates OK and to inspect them after squeezed.).

    Also, the rivets that go into the 1 nutplate that is in the center of the lower level of the box, that part of the carbon fiber may be too thick for the rivets to go through it and the nutplate and still be able to be squeezed. Check it and if it's too thick, just get your dremel tool with sanding drum on it and sand the box down thinner underneath (on the bottom of the floorboard).

    Not listed in the manual or figure is that you will also need to countersink the holes in the top of the battery box so that the tinnerman washers will fit flush.

    Lastly, while I'm in this section of the FINISH MANUAL, go ahead and look at FN23 on page 84 and pull the hardware that is used to mount the seat onto the seat base. I just stick the bolt through the hole with the washers and lightly install the locknut inside. Just leave these here until you install the seat which will be once of the last things you do on your plane when you are finishing it.

    Also when pulling the parts I noticed that the seat takes 2 AN3-7A and none were shipped with my kit so I can get this request into Mitch and have them when I really need them later.

    TORQUE TUBE - Page 93

    The "measurement" that is important that is referred to in the 3rd paragraph is referring to making the top block on the front 0.93 from the seat base to the center of the hole.

    Once again you will see in Fig FS31 that the nuts used are using the "Alterernate Part Number" of MS21083-N3 which is really an AN364-1032A.

    The manual on page 93 refers to FS43 and FS31 for the fasteners for the blocks and stiffener but that is wrong. FS31 refers to parts for the seat base side of the stiffener but FS34 is the correct figure for the parts for the torque tube blocks.

    On Page 93 ....NOTE THAT BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE REAR MAST YOU FIRST HAVE TO PUT YOUR WHITE GREASE ON THE BOTTOM OF BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR TORQUE TUBE BLOCKS. Once you install the rear mast and the torque tube is on the blocks, you won't be able to.

    AN4-24A bolts go through the front torque tube blocks. The manual is missing the entire section and figure referring to installing the bottom Fairlead Bracket (SC91003-001) with the grommet and snap ring in place on the bottom of the bolts going down through the front blocks. Here is a photo of that figure from the EX2 manual that shows that installation. You use AN-960-416L washers with AN365-428A lock nuts on the bottom of the AN4-24A bolts.

    P1050940.jpg


    P1050941.jpg


    Another thing not discussed
    is that the stiffener bracket SC91014-001 is not pre-drilled for the 1/4" holes. After drilling the holes through the blocks and floorboard (with the 0.93 distance at the top), then put one bolts in from the bottom of the floorboard and up into the blocks to hold them in the proper position. Then use your large hole finder tool to put over each hole in the blocks and mark or drill the 1/4" hole locations in the stiffener with it up tight against the seat base. You can also first mount the stiffener to the seat base first with the front of it sitting flush with the top block and then just drill up through the hole you drilled through the floorboard, and through the holes in the blocks into the stiffener so you are match drilling the 1/4" hole.

    P1050942.jpg


    I also like to sand/round the corners of these stiffeners just to knock the sharp corner off (so when I wear sandals and bump my heel into it I don't curse).


    P1050943.jpg


    PAGE 97, CONTROL STICK STUBS

    The manual description has not been updated and still refers to the EX2. Specifically, the 4th sentence that says "Be sure to install the thin washers AN960-416L between the torque tube mast and the stick stub" is wrong. The diagram FS34 is correct for the EX3 and you will notice there are no 416L thin washers between the mast and stick stub.

    As well, the last sentence calls for the wrong part number. It is shown in the figure that the correct part is MS20392-3C21 and not 3C19 which was for the EX2.

    I also go ahead and pull the bolt, washer and nut for the top hole in the stub (where the stick will later mount to) and install it loosely in the hole so I don't have to go back later to search for the correct part numbers. See FS33.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 09-08-2018 at 10:21 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  5. #45
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    RUDDER/BRAKE PEDAL INSTALL - Page 100 of the DROPBOX FUSE MANUAL (or page 101 of the printed manual. Note that all my page references from this point forward are referring to the Dropbox Manual only.)

    The written description on the first page is all wrong as it refers to the fig. numbers. The relevant figures are FS30, FS35 and FS36.

    Note that the part number listed (SC91005-001) for the heel plate refers to the LEFT plate and -002 is for the RIGHT plate.

    On page 101 where it shows using clecos, the GOLD ones are just barely big enough but if you don't have any, you can just use a couple of punches to drop into the holes to hold them into position until I install them onto the floorboard. It refers to FS20 and that should read FS36.

    P1050944.jpg

    You will have to match drill the holes through the heel plates and also through the back of the back brace. I used a #18 bit.

    Looking at FS36 on page 103, 4 bolts used on either side of the front pedals are listed as MS24693C273. This is again an alternate part number. The primary number listed on your tote list of parts is AN507C1032R10.

    Same for all 6 nuts....primary number is AN364-1032A locknuts. Then the 2 center ones on either side of the heat duct tunnel is AN526C1032R8. Note large washers on the 2 outside bolts that do not go through the brace.

    To clarify which way the back brace goes (chevron's go which way??? )...... you can see in my photo that the wider side of the brace goes towards the FRONT of the floorboard.

    P1050945.jpg

    P1050948.jpg

    You can see here where we match drilled from the rear of the floorboard on either side of the heater tunnel and installed the R8 screws.

    REAR PEDALS

    Manual is pretty clear here. On the rear pedals, the front, single hole in the pedal (not the 3 in a row) will line up with the OUTSIDE hole of the 2 that are pre-drilled. So cleco the rear rudder pedals to that OUTSIDE hole (so the other hole will be on the INSIDE of the floorboard) and match drill the other 3 holes and install the screws, big washers and nuts. Remember those part numbers shown are the "alternate" part numbers on the tote parts lists.

    P1050950.jpg


    INSTALLING FLOORBOARD INTO FUSE

    Set the floorboard into place in the fuse. It's easiest to use a headlamp to help you look down into the holes in the floorboard and fuse to line up the holes. Take an awl and just go to a few places on each corner and line up the holes. The screws that you will use 32 of are not called out in the manual (of course). Use AN526C1032R8 screws for these 32 holes. Use (2) AN3-5A bolt with (2) TC9004-004 washers to go into the rear pedals (that front, center hole) and use (4) AN507C1032R10 screws in the front pedals (2 each pedal). This equals 38 total screws. The last 2 you will use are (2) HDW2503-0 with 3 AN960-10 washers under it. These are pieces of hardware that are used on rifles to attach to the stock so you can attach your sling. It will be used later to install the rear seat as the seat will actually have the "swivel" fitting just like on your rifle sling, that will attach to these. In my kit, I was missing these and have to get Mitch to ship them. No big deal, they can be added anytime. Photos 154 and 155 on Page 108 shows the 2 holes these go in so don't put the R8 screws in these holes.

    Now, you might be lucky and all the holes in the floorboard line up with the fuse holes but I doubt it. None of mine ever have. What I do is to go ahead and put a little BLUE loctite on all the screws that have the holes all lined up nice. I install the screws through the front pedals first since they are harder to "fix" later if they are off. Don't tighten the screws all the way, just get them started with a hand screwdriver for now to be sure they will actually "start" in the holes.

    After you have all the "easy" ones done, use your Dremel tool with a straight bit (not sure what you really call them). The sides of the tip cuts so you can stick it down into the floorboard and cut enlarge the hole a little in the direction it needs to go. Your headlamp here helps. Be care full and try to pull the floorboard up just a tad when you do this and don't get your bit down into the fuse hole where it's all tapped out already or you will mess up the threads. Just enlarge the hole enough to get the screws started and then once all the screws are fitting, I use a drill set to the highest torque and tighten them all down (with BLUE loctite on them all). Take a peek under the fuse and be sure your floorboard is flush against the fuse tubes everywhere to be sure the screws tightened the floorboard good.

    Don't tighten the 2 most rear screws (1 on either side) yet. You will need to lift the rear of the floorboard up later to match drill the 5 screws that go into the rear fuse when you put the rear baggage area floorboard in next.

    P1050952.jpg


    P1050953.jpg

    Don't use a drill bit because it WILL go down into the tapped out hole in the fuse and you will really have some work cut out for you!


    P1050954.jpg


    P1050955.jpg


    P1050956.jpg


    Pages 110 and 111 (Dropbox) are out of order. Page 110 should go before page 109 and be done anytime after the floorboards are installed and the same for page 111. This is done after finishing the floorboard after page 113.

    To finish installing the front baggage floor, go back to page 60. BUT FIRST.....page 60 has some errors! (really....you say? surely it can't be so).

    The 4th sentence needs to be changed to have it read that you need to match drill NOT the forward floorboard for the seat belt holes but the FORWARD BAGGAGE FLOOR. As you already can see, the factory now cuts out around those rear seat belt holes and the rear of the seat base floorboard so you don't have to do that but you do have to match drill it to the baggage floor.

    Next, after the 6th sentence (the RED WARNING sentence) a step is left out. You have to also now match drill the 5 holes in the middle of the floorboard to the Forward Baggage Floor.

    You may also need to trim the front of the Front Baggage Floor a bit to make it fit into the sunken recessed area made for it to fit in at the rear of the seat base floor.

    Page 110 has FS37 showing all the hardware to connect the brake connects and rudder cables. Be sure and put a little white grease in the pivot areas. Both rudder cables are the same and I just go ahead now and lay them back in the baggage area coiled up and connect the front of each one now while I'm doing the hardware. Starting at the rear, pull the cable through the fairlead holes (4 on each side) with the small end going up to the rudder cables. You can go to page 184 in the manual where it talks about installing the cables for reference if you want. You will need to first install the 2 piece fairlead Segments in the 7 places (4 on left and only 3 on right) side because 1 is the one we installed with the grommet in it already. You can also ignore this for now and do it later. I am going to pre-fit the interior panels before I cover it and it is easier to do that without the cables installed so maybe best to wait on this segment.

    On the front pedals, lower brake connector tube.....on the inside of the pedal it calls for a single AN960-10 but that isn't enough to get the castle nut out far enough to lock in the cotter pin so I added another AN960-10L to that to make it work better. So there are the 2 washers under the castle nut.


    Just FYI, I have 29 hours 15 minutes into the fuse build so far. Remember, this is my 3rd one so probably much faster than you but hopefully this thread will help cut down alot of grief as you can see how many things are not in the manual that you would be scratching your head and trying to reach Mitch on!
    Last edited by Daveembry; 09-09-2018 at 06:43 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  6. #46
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    FUSELAGE

    REAR TORQUE TUBE BLOCKS. This is pretty self explanatory but the figure to use is FS38 on Page 112 not the FS33 referenced. Also, I would also go ahead and install the aileron limit screws shown on that same figure and do that before installing the blocks as it will be a little easier since you can still move the tube (and rear mast over since it has a piece on the bottom that sticks down through the floorboard). Later you will use these bolts to adjust the aileron travel when you set the angles when installing them, it's just much easier to get them in now than later after cover, etc.

    P1050958.jpg

    Note that the call-out for the screws into the seat base from the torque tube stiffener is AN525-10R8 and there are none (and never have been any in any of the kits for some reason). There are AN525-10R9's in the kit and this is what I used. They are just a tad longer screw which is fine and I don't think they are used elsewhere.

    AILERON STOP PLATE

    On page 111 at the very end, the sentence in red says "....we will do the aileron stop plate next....". But, it dissappeared! In the EX2 this stop plate was used to actually set the max travel for the elevator angles so it was set to be centered on the stick when it was perfectly vertical and then later, on final when installing the ailerons, you would actually file away the side of this plate until the max travel of the rear stick hit the side of this plate at the right max angle of aileron deflection. Now on the EX3 they changed and welded the stop bolts onto the bottom of the fuse (we just installed them above). So for now, this is just a cover plate. I imagine later they will change the floorboard and just make it the right dimensions and no plate will be necessary. So just center the plate on the opening so it looks nice and install the hardware. The hardware is called out in FS38.

    Yes, you will actually have to screw the plastic washers onto the screws. They do this on purpose I'm told. I used a #28 bit.

    PEDAL SPRINGS

    Hint: Hook the spring on the pedal first and then put the other end in the clamp. It's much easier than vice versa.


    PULLEYS & CABLES

    Page 116. Obviously all the references to the figures after the front pulley are wrong. This was mostly written for the EX2. Note that you FIRST have to run the front end of the cable THROUGH the cable guard (see FS41; SK91003-001) before connecting to the front stick. Then you can secure it to the floorboard.

    P1050975.jpg

    Much of the written instructions you can ignore as they were for the EX2 and not updated yet.

    One thing you can do that makes it easier on the finish is to label (or keep the part number tags) on the aft cable ends that will connect to the elevators. Then on the label, write UP or TOP on the SC97300-003 cable that is connecting the rear stick and DOWN or BOTTOM on the SK95300-001 cable that connects to the front stick. Later when you have to connect these to the elevators, it will make it easier so you don't have to track down which cable is which at that point.

    When you install these cables in the rear of the floorboard, double pulleys, the rear stick cable (SC97300-001) will go on the LEFT side pulley.

    FIG FS42 shows the hardware. There are 4 washers on the inside of the built in pulley bracket (floorboard) and they are a little hard to get all lined up but here is the best way.

    First, put a good dab of the white grease inside each pulley hole and on the bolt first. Then put grease on either side of the 2 pulleys and on each side of these 4 washers and STICK the washers on the sides of the pulleys and line them up with the bolt or awl or whatever.

    P1050961.jpg


    First be sure the cables are THROUGH the pulley bracket with that front stick one on the RIGHT side (aircraft right from pilot seat). As you look down from the top of the floorboard into the pulley bracket, then you should see the 2 cables lying there on the bottom of the bracket floor in the correct position.

    Stick the bolt (with the 416 washer under the bolt head) just a little into the hole from right to left side of the pulley built in pulley bracket. Then take the first pulley and from the topside, put it down into the bracket being sure the cable is correct and under that pulley and IN that pulley and slide the bolt through that pulley until it just barely protrudes. Then slowly work the last pulley into place being sure the STUCK ON washers are centered on the holes. As I stick it down in the hole, I take my awl from the other side of the pulley bracket and stick it into the hole a little and then as I push the pulley down from the top, I slide the awl into the pulley hole. Then you can push the bolt on through. Double check all the washers are in fact installed and didn't slide out.

    P1050974.jpg

    Route the cable to the back, double pulley bracket and install those pulleys. They are back on FS10 on page 29. I wrote about it earlier in these posts (make sure the pulleys turn freely in this bracket as it tends to be too tight.)

    P1050964.jpg


    Lastly, you need to be careful how you route these cables to the rear and how they go through the area around the electric trim platform. Here is a drawing Mitch send me that shows how those cables go through the fuse. If you look carefully, I have labeled each cable and colored them differently. You can see the BLUE cable is coming from the rear torque tube mast and is going UP. It goes through the fuse on the LEFT side of the pulleys. Look closely how it passes through the fuse as it comes up from the bottom to the top. There is a diagonal tube going from bottom left to top right. This cable will go to the RIGHT fuse side of that diagonal tube and will be installed ultimately to the top of the elevators.

    The other cable is shown in ORANGE and you will note it goes to the LEFT side of that diagonal tube as it passes under that trim motor platform.

    P1050970.jpg


    P1050971.jpg


    I also like to go ahead right now and install the barrel connectors that will be installed on the ends of these cables usually later as you finish the plane and install the elevators. It's much easier to screw them on now than later after cover and you have very limited space to work in. Here is a picture of that drawing showing the parts in yellow highlighter which connector goes where. The shorter one goes on top and the long one on the bottom. NOTE.....these barrel connectors will only screw onto the ends of the cables COUNTER CLOCKWISE and it will only work on 1 END OF THIS CONNECTOR. So try to screw it onto the cable counter clockwise and if that doesn't work, flip it over and the other end will screw on.


    P1050972.jpg


    P1050973.jpg

    Then just put a few tie wraps together and just pull them up tight and out of the way of the cover until you go to finish the plane later. By labeling the cables UP and DOWN and installing these connectors now, you'll save yourself alot of time and effort later.

    I HAVE 32 HOURS AND 30 MINUTES TO THIS POINT IN THE FUSE BUILD. I'm also on jury duty all week, so the build will go slowly the rest of the week.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 09-11-2018 at 03:34 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  7. #47
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    FUEL LINES

    The manual is pretty self explanatory. Just use FS44 to see where the lines go. Just run them a little long and tape in place to start with and when we put the connectors/fitting on, we will trim to exact length as we go. just start around the fuel selector valve and work out from there.

    Looking (and enlarging) the Dropbox manual figures are always easier to see/read than the printed version. On Dropbox, you can select to DOWNLOAD in the top, right corner and save the manual to your hard drive on a pdf. Then you don't need to be online to use the manual and also the pdf is easier to work with I think. You can press and hole ctrl and the shift key and then while holding both down, press either the "-" or the "+" key and it will rotate the pages making it fast and easy to flip some of the figures around to read more easily.

    A little tubing cutter makes it easier but not necessary.

    P1050977.jpg

    I just go ahead and cut the fuel line to fit and connect them loosely to the connectors as I go but you may want to just lay them out and then go back like the manual shows. You can always run the excess out the top of the fuse where they go to the fuel tanks (4 places, front and rear on each side)

    In about an hour I have them all run and here is how they will look before we do any of the chase protection, etc. NOTE: The photo below actually shows 1 wrong fuel line routing. The one that goes from the front, right fuel tank across the front by the firewall and around the left side. In this photo I have it going OVER THE TOP of that top tube on the top left side of the boot cowl/instrument panel area and if you look at the figure, (coming from the right side of the aircraft to the left) as it comes across the front of the fuse and turns back towards the rear on the left side of the boot cowl area, it should go UNDER that top tube and angle downward towards the fuel selector and not OVER like it is in this photo. I corrected it later when I was double checking everything.

    P1050978.jpg


    P1050979.jpg


    P1050980.jpg


    P1050981.jpg


    P1050982.jpg


    P1050983.jpg


    P1050984.jpg


    P1050985.jpg


    P1050986.jpg


    P1050987.jpg


    NOTE: You don't need to leave as much excess coming out the tops of the fuse in the 4 locations where it will attach to the fuel lines. Probably 6" out past the tabs is enough. If you use as much as I did you will probably run short about a foot for the fuel line, so cut it a little tighter.

    Also, a hint to installing rubber hoses onto fitting or in this case, pushing fuel lines through tight rubber grommets in the fabric spacers on the sides is very easy if you spray the grommet and the hose with some Armorall. It will evaporate away with no residue and the hoses will just slide right on.


    CONNECTORS

    A habit I started was blowing hard through every segment of the fuel lines before I connect them all together just to be sure there isn't anything in them before sealing up. I immediately cover the open ends of the fuel lines with tape. You never know when a spider, or bug or other "stuff" could get down in one. I never take the tape off the masking tape that comes on the fuel tanks until the time I get ready to put the caps on them and put fuel in them either.

    On Page 130 it shows how the plastic fittings go together but doesn't show you the metal one. Here is a run down of these fittings:

    1. All the plastic fittings/nuts. Put a reinforcement insert into the end of the fuel line before screwing on the nut. You will use NO THREAD SEALER OF ANY KIND.
    2. All the metal compression nuts (all the fittings that have the fuel lines going into them) will have the same reinforcement insert into the end of the fuel line itself and will also have the plastic compression fitting that goes into the nut and goes through the nut (see my previous post showing these). You will use NO THREAD SEALER OF ANY KIND.
    3. We discussed the fittings that go into the actual fuel selector in a previous post in this thread so you can go refer to it. It will have Loctite 567 thread sealer on their threads.

    In the photo below, the red and yellow arrows point to the plastic and metal fitting that will all get the insert into the fuel line and use no thread sealer and the green arrow points to the fittings into the fuel selector valve that will have 567 thread sealer.


    fuel line connections.jpg


    You will install all the fitting. For the plastic fittings see page 130 and it will show that after you "finger tighten" the plastic nuts, put some sharpie dots a shown in the photo and then tighten them further 1-1/2 to 2 turns more.

    For the aluminum nuts, 2-1/2 turns past finger tight or until it bottoms out. SEE PAGE 136.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 09-15-2018 at 06:39 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  8. #48
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broken Arrow, OK
    Posts
    361

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    FUEL LINES

    Protective tubing

    I don't "slide" the larger "protective tubing" over the fuel lines, I cut it open and just put it over the fuel line where I need it (the manual says this is OK in the first paragraph in red). There are some obvious places now where you will want to put this but many of the places, especially around the front of the fuse where the electronics and boot cowl will go, are better to just wait until later and see exactly where it needs to go. When you put in the instrument panel, wiring harnesses, etc., you will probably shift things around a bit while you are working and best to just wait and secure this area then.

    P1060018.jpg

    Also, the interior panels have cut-outs built into them so they have to go in a specific place. The chafe protection that goes over the fuel lines and the protective tubing just wraps around it, so it's very simple later to spread it open and apply the protective tubing later as you see where it's needed.

    You can put the protective tubing and friction tape in place but don't tie wrap it onto the fuse yet until after you have put on the chafe protection around all the fuel lines.

    At the tops/ends of the 4 fuel lines that are going up to the top of the fuse for the front and rear tank lines, just run the chafe protection for now up past the window attach fitting and don't secure it there yet because you will be trimming this to fit when you install your wings at finish.

    P1050991.jpg



    Here I will copy CHUCK AND RYANS BUILD TIPS regarding the fuel line protective tubing and leak testing. Thanks again Chuck & Ryan!



    Fuel Lines

    1. After setting the fuel lines in place, test fit the forward left and right interior panels. They have cut outs for the fuel line supports and you will know if you got the supports in the correct location while they can still easily be relocated.





    2. Protective hose about an inch long is supposed to be slid on to the fuel line to protect the line when the plastic ties are pulled tight. Yea, sure. Sliding a section of that covering line a few feet is like pulling up a 50 pound boat anchor without a windlass. Once the one inch pieces were cut we simply split one side length wise and snapped it over the desired location, then taped the ends with friction tape to hold it in place per the manual.





    3. We checked for leaks per the updated on line manual: using a bit of compressed air and soapy leak tester. BORING. Did not find any evidence of leaks and had a soapy mess on all the joints. I much prefer the balloon technique, which I have now refined to a fine art since an earlier post.

    First, the fuel tank lines on the left side were connected with a section of 3/8” hose. The clamps have to be really tightened down to prevent any slow leaks.

    Second, a balloon is placed on the right side, aft tank line. This is the most distant point from the gascolator. I placed a short section of 3/8 hose and put the balloon opening over that hose to assure a tighter fit. Electrical tape made a good seal around the balloon.

    Third, the aft drain was sealed with a threaded plug. The forward drain and the right forward fuel tank lines were sealed with a bolt, section of hose, and hose clamps. This left only the gasolator line open.



    Fourth, a balloon was inflated and taped on the fuselage as a ‘control’. Finally, the balloon on the aft right fuel tank line was inflated by blowing through the only open line to the gascolator (No compressor necessary!) After the balloon was inflated it was sealed with a section of hose, bolt, and clamps.



    Now the hard part. Waiting. I set this up a several days ago and both the control and test balloon are still inflated. I am much more confident that the system is leak free with these balloons than with the silly soapy mess.

    THANKS AGAIN CHUCK & RYAN.



    Now I'll add just a bit info and more photos. I did sand down the stringer on the right side under the baggage door where the fuel line goes down through and put protective tubing there as well. There was no hole or opening there for the fuel line to go through so I just sanded a slot in it to let the fuel line go down without any pressure being on the stringer.


    P1050988.jpg

    P1050990.jpg

    To do the fuel line leak test, you will need to find your fuel selector switch (the red one) and be sure the fuel selector is pointing UP which is for BOTH TANKS.

    P1050993.jpg

    You will also need to put a plug into the rear, low point drain. Just use the quick drain plugs with the kit SP60002-002.

    The rest I think you have explained above OK. Here's more photos.

    P1050994.jpg

    I have the balloon connected to the front of the right fuel tank line. It really doesn't matter because all the lines are linked together with the fuel selector on BOTH.


    P1050995.jpg

    Here you can see how we use the fuel line, clamps and bolt in the end to put over the fuel line.


    P1050996.jpg

    The balloon is just put on the fuel line after using denatured alcohol to clean the fuel line of all grease, etc. and wrapped with electrical tape stretched tight.


    P1050997.jpg

    Here are the 2 lines that will go through the firewall. The top one is coming from the fuel selector and send fuel to the gasolator that will be just on the other side of the firewall. The bottom line is going to the front low point drain. Both of these lines are also blocked off.


    P1050998.jpg


    P1050999.jpg

    Here you can see how you can just run a longer piece of rubber hose and connect the 2 ends of the fuel lines on the left side of the plane. This way the air can just go right on through.

    NOW I KEEP MY FINGERS CROSSED AND HOPE TOMORROW MORNING THE BALLOONS WILL STILL HAVE AIR IN THEM!!

    On the next page, I'll have more photos of the fuel lines installed.

    Last edited by Daveembry; 09-14-2018 at 01:40 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  9. #49
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broken Arrow, OK
    Posts
    361

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    VERTICAL FIN

    Page 143 in the manual. Self explanatory but wanted to let you know that the pins you need TC3029-001 are found in your FINISH KIT/PACKING LIST. Mine was in SKP 4.

    Also, you are going to need a LOOONG 1/4" drill bit. I got a set of 3 at Harbor Freight and a pack of 3 is almost free. This is so you can drill out/ream the pin fittings for the stabilizers, rudders, elevators, etc.

    P1060001.jpg

    FS47 does not show washers being used but I had to put an AN960-10 under the nut of the rear fin bolt because the shoulder of the bolt stuck out too far to let the nut tighten on the tube before bottoming out. Don't worry about the front one right now. A bracket is going to first be installed on it.

    Careful when you sand down the posts to adjust the max rudder angle.......just a little sanding moves it alot so just take a little off and measure.

    P1050972.jpg

    Attachment 8404


    ELEVATOR TRIM INSTALLATION

    Page 148 & 149. Looking at FS48, it is not right. You will need to add (2) AN960-416L washers INSIDE the bracket on either side of the pulley. You may have to spread the bracket apart just a bit to get them to fit but you need them to have the pulley rotate on and the AN4-7 bolt they call for it way too long if you don't use the washers. Also, you will probably have to ream the bracket hole out for that pulley bolt a little with the 1/4" bit. Be sure and grease it all up good and that the pulley rotates freely. For some reason, they have all the bolt heads on the left side of the aircraft, contrary to all the rest of the aircraft where you put the bolt heads on the right side?????

    P1060008.jpg

    P1060009.jpg

    P1060010.jpg

    If you are installing a G3X Touch Exec. Glass system, then you will need to install the trim sensor. See the EXECUTIVE GLASS MANUAL on page 37 for the details on installing it. You first have to use 2 rivets to secure the sensor to the sensor bracket (countersunk holes on bottom where the rivet heads go) and be sure you have it so the lip on the BACK where it sits on the trim motor platform is facing DOWN.

    At the end of page 148 the last sentence in red says to test fit the jacks crew into the fuselage. Most likely it will NOT FIT and "Spin Easily". None of mine have so far. So how do you ream out this big hole that it slides down through? You get some 100 grit sandpaper to start with and tape it to a long drill bit and wrap it around the bit. Then stick it down in the hole and sand the inside until the jack screw does go down easily with the small end in the place it goes at the bottom.

    P1060003.jpg


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    Before installing the jackscrew and yoke assembly, I use a q-tip and put lots of grease into all the areas in the fuse where the jackscrew will go and rotate as well as inside the yoke. Then really grease up the jackscrew itself.


    Well, after 2 full days my balloon is still full of air in the fuel system test so I'm removing the balloons, etc. and be sure I have all the tie wraps installed over the lines, etc around the extended baggage/floor pieces.

    P1060013.jpg

    I will also go ahead now and apply the Super Glue (Loctite 401; RM0568-010) to all the threads of the plastic fittings AND I will put some weigh into the bottom of the baggage floor and now take my meth and go around and apply it to all the sides, back and bottom of all the aluminum pieces.

    P1060012.jpg
    Last edited by Daveembry; 09-14-2018 at 01:10 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  10. #50
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broken Arrow, OK
    Posts
    361

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    TRIM MOTOR INSTALLATION

    As I said in the previous posts, go to the Executive Glass Manual for the info on installing the trim sensor. It will also have a separate wiring harness that you will run along the same left stringer that you will run the trim wiring harness. That harness also has the longer wire coming off the end that is the rudder light wires, so just route them to the rear.

    Follow the manual (page 156) but note that before putting the trim motor in place that you will have to put the Jack Screw - Gearmotor Coupler SC97004-001 onto the shaft of the motor before installing it.

    I take a blue sharpie and put some blue on the flat part of the trim motor shaft before putting the coupler over it. Later we will want to be able to look through the bottom hole in the coupler and be sure it's over the flat part before match drilling it and installing a pin and this makes it easier.

    P1060017.jpg

    NOTE: PER MITCH, YOU SHOULD USE BLUE AND NOT RED LOCTITE ON THE BOLTS AS SHOWN ON FS54 (bolts into trim motor). This also needs to be corrected on page 159 written directions where it says "red".

    P1060014.jpg

    Be SURE you put 2 of the AN960-616L washers as shown on FS49 onto the jack screw. 1 goes on top and bottom (Between the jackscrew and coupler) of the fuse piece that holds the end of the jack screw. Many people don't get BOTH of these installed I hear.

    On page 150 there is an error regarding installing the Jackscrew bushing SC82103-001. You do NOT match drill using a #12 but instead match drill with a LETTER F (.257) drill bit. Install XC98005-001 Sleeve, Thrust Bushing into that hole and then install the AN3-12A bolt through the sleeve and AN365-1032A lock nut on the end.

    Same page, error in stating that you use the AN507C1032R24 bolts for the stop limits. You will see on FS51 that the top one is a long R28 bolt and the R24 goes on the BOTTOM ONLY. You will probably have powder coat inside the screws welded on the fuse here. I run the top screw down from the top first to clear it or you may have to run a tap through them if you can't get them to go all the way in.

    Moving to FS55 on Page 160 I have written in which switch goes on the top (UP) and bottom (DOWN) positions on the yoke. This comes from FS56 shown later.

    P1060016.jpg


    P1060015.jpg

    You will have to hook up the power wires to the trim motor. The wires in the harness are marked Pos (+) and Neg (-) and Pos goes to the red wire on the trim motor.

    Route the wires per the manual up through the front fabric spacer and then they all go down and through the space on the left side of the floorboard and then just tucked up out of the way in the belly for now. The wire with the 4 wire and connector (GEA0B24-3) from the trim motor position sensor will end up hooking up to the wiring harness under the boot cowl/instrument panel area so just bring it up in that area for now and secure it.

    P1060019.jpg


    P1060020.jpg

    Regretfully, the yoke I received was not tapped out for the jackscrew so I am waiting to get another one from Mitch, so will come back later to install the yoke and jackscrew, limit switches, etc. later. NOTE.....I FINISHED THE INSTALLATION OF THE TRIM MOTOR ON POST #58.

    The side fabric spacers are pretty straightforward. I like to use clothespins on the fronts. I use the rudder pedal to pull in that bottom stringer in flush.

    P1060022.jpg


    P1060021.jpg


    P1060023.jpg
    Last edited by Daveembry; 09-20-2018 at 06:28 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

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