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  1. #1
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    Post Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    I just received my 3rd Carbon Cub kit and thought I would try and help Mitch out by giving some tips and hints of the build here for everyone to use. I first build an EX-2 ("Orange Crush") in just over 700 building hours. Then I just finished getting the first EX-3 kit certified last month just a couple weeks before this kit shipped to me. Mitch and I worked through this first build together and will continue to work towards making this kit as smooth to build as the EX2.

    I've been getting a few phone calls and private messages relating to the build and now there are several EX3 kits out there now and I think about 3 more kits are shipping out each month so there are a lot more people starting to put these great planes together. Note that I do NOT work for CubCrafters and am not being paid or given any other consideration for making these posts. I'm just a bored, retired homebuilder who enjoys doing this.

    First let me say that I'm just telling and showing you some of the things I've done and the way "I" do the builds and I don't represent that it's the proper, only or best way. As a legal disclaimer, I just want to say that you are welcome to follow along for your own entertainment purposes but it's your own responsibility to build your aircraft the proper way and according to CubCrafters and standard aircraft methods.

    I also ask that you are welcome to respond to any of these posts with further questions or clarifications but I just ask that your discussions stick to the topic of building the EX-3 kit and not wander off into other subject areas. I also ask that you do post your questions, concerns, suggestions, etc on here so everyone can see the questions and answers so we can best inform everyone interested instead of sending private messages if it's something everyone else would benefit from learning.

    I want to also suggest you read the posts "Chuck and Ryans Build Tips" http://forum.cubcrafters.com/showthr...ght=chuck+ryan. They spent alot of time with great insights, hints and photos to building the EX2 and I am much appreciative of the time and effort they put forth to help us all out. Learn to use the search function on this forum and do searches related to what subject matter you are looking for and it will bring up every post that includes that search criteria. Almost every subject you have questions about has most likely already been discussed at detail here in the forum.

    If you haven't joined EAA then I suggest you do so. No only do they have great insurance rates for the members but their website is a HUGE database of information. What I particularly liked when I did my first build was the homebuilder videos. http://www.eaavideo.org/. You can go here and there are hundreds of short videos they have had experts put together than will show you virtually everything you will do on your build. Such simple subject as "what is a squeeze riveter?"; "how do you solder 2 wires together", etc. Each video is just 3-5 minutes usually; to the point and very informative. No subject or question is too small for them to address. Just use that link and then do a search to find the videos about the subject you are looking for.

    Also please be sure you are getting the DROPBOX link for the EX3 manuals from Mitch. These manuals are updated by Mitch when he has something pertinent to change or add and when he updates it on his end, it's immediately updated on your end when you log on and download or view the manuals (or videos, pictures, etc). It's also nice to download to your ipad so you can read up on things when away from the computer. Ask Mitch to give you that link directly. I keep a laptop open on my workbench at all times and refer to the Dropbox version of the manual I'm working on and compare it against the paper version I got with the kit. Just read through a section of your paper manual and compare it to the online version to see if there are any changes in that section. I ONLY BUILD USING THE DROPBOX MANUALS, NOT THE PRINTED MANUALS !!!!! You can refer to the written manual if you want, but double check it against the updated Dropbox manual first.

    READ THE MANUALS COMPLETELY before starting! Most everything you need to do will be addressed in the manual AT SOME POINT. So if you have a question about when or what to do with a specific section or part......read ahead as it will be addressed at some point.

    In Dropbox be sure and check out the CCK PICTURES file. It has LOTS AND LOTS OF DETAILED PHOTOS AND IS VERY HELPFUL!!

    DON'T PAY MUCH ATTENTION TO THE "INSPECTION SHEETS" IN THE MANUALS. I think these Inspection Sheets are used by the factory and you will see there are lots of things not done yet in the kit or maybe done and not included so if you use them, just use the items that relates ONLY to the things the manual directed you to do in that section and nothing more. SO ..... if you see something in the "INSPECTION SHEET" that was not in the section of the manual you just did... IGNORE IT.....DON'T THINK YOU ARE SUPPOSE TO DO IT YET.

    Also pay attention to the beginning of the manual where it says that if the written information conflicts with the figures/drawings shown......always go by the figures/drawings. They are engineering drawings and are most certainly the most current and correct version. ALSO, ONLY DO WHAT THE WRITTEN PORTION OF THE MANUAL INSTRUCTS YOU TO DO AND NO MORE EVEN THOUGH THE ASSOCIATED FIGURE MAY SHOW MORE THINGS DONE. If the manual only tells you to put 3 parts on a section but when you see the drawing you see a few more parts installed.....DON'T DO IT! The figure is just a figure showing the entire area and all the parts but only do what's instructed at that time. There is most likely a reason you will not put the other parts on at that time and later you will come back and finish.

    CALL MITCH. When you have a question, try your best to answer it by being sure you are checking the manual and if you just can't figure it out give him a call. Mitch is one of the most patient and knowledgeable people I have ever worked with. No question is too small or insignificant to him and he will explain it to you or refer you to where you can get the info you need.

    I have found that contact with Mitch is best like this:
    - For any parts you may be missing or need, email him the specifics including the quantity; part number; part name and why you need it.
    - Phone calls for anything else that you need help or instruction on. I don't normally email him questions unless it's an extremely short question with a short answer that isn't too detailed or complicated. Something like "Mitch, did you ship those AN960-10 Washers I needed".
    - I don't text him normally for anything unless he specifically asked me to and that is usually if he wants a photo of something I'm working on.

    Today I am starting the build by doing the left wing first. I'll make posts along the way of things which might be more difficult or clarification.

    Lastly you will need to keep a "Build Log". On the laptop which I keep on my workbench, I have this build log loaded up and I log every time I sit and build. I do NOT log time I spend reading manuals in advance, watching build videos, etc. I log only the time I'm physically building the airplane. This log will mostly likely be asked for by your FAA examiner or DAR when he comes to give you your Special Airworthiness Certificate when you are all done.

    I made this a simple Excel spreadsheet form. To use it just type in the date in a format like "june 4" and then tab over to the next section and type in the time in the format of "6:15 am"; hit tab a couple times (skip the "time out" box) and go over to the "Work Done" section and then just type in what you do during that session. When you are done for that session (even if just going to lunch or taking a break for a couple hours, etc) just go to the "time out" box and enter the time in the same format. It will then automatically calculate the amount of time in hours and minutes for that session and also total it up at the bottom for that section (like "LEFT WING") as well as keeping a running total at the very bottom of the form where it will tabulate the total time on the airplane. I attached the form here.

    ALSO NOTE THAT ALL THE MANUAL PAGE AND FIGURE REFERENCES I MAKE HERE ARE REFERRING TO THE DROPBOX VERSION OF ANY MANUAL, NOT THE PRINTED VERSION WHICH YOU MAY HAVE. SO AS MITCH MAKES CHANGES TO THE DROPBOX MANUAL, THE PAGE AND/OR FIGURE # REFERENCES MAY CHANGE. JUST GO TO THE RELEVANT SECTION WE ARE TALKING ABOUT IN ANY UPDATED MANUAL.

    If you catch me in a mistake along the way, please be sure and point it out so we can get it corrected quickly and as I said, I'm only going over things that may need clarification from the manuals or videos or more detailed explanations. However, after you have examined the manuals, videos and photos on Dropbox (LOTS of great photos of most anything is in Dropbox) then feel free to ask the questions on here and I'll try to cover it. I'm no expert on any of this but at least it's not my first rodeo.

    So here we go......

    P1020083.jpg ORANGE CRUSH EX2
    EX3.jpg N836DE EX3
    1E12F960-9DD4-40B6-8C64-D914AB67B711.jpg

    Attachment 7738
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Daveembry; 07-21-2019 at 07:11 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    TOOLS

    The manual has a good list of tools and I think you can order the "kit" directly if you want. Aircraft Spruce and of course Amazon is a great source as well as Cleveland (who bought out Avery) http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Browse...departments/1/. Here are some links to the more common tools.




    Spar drill jig.jpg


    Spar drill jig 2.jpg


    • Dremel Tool. I use the dremel to do all my cutting on metal and carbon fiber using a metal cutoff wheel and sandpaper drums to smooth out cuts. Works great and more precise than a larger, air tool.
    • Flameless solder tool. The kit will use mostly "solder sleeves" to solder wires together. Much easier than hand soldering. It uses sleeves with solder and heat shrink all in one and you use this flameless tool to melt the solder ring inside the sleeves. https://www.amazon.com/Steinel-Therm...inel+flameless



    solder gun 2.jpg

    3F499CB8-02AE-4272-8FED-AA278101591B.jpg

    Solder Sleeves. You will get some with the kit but this is what they look like. https://www.amazon.com/26-24AWG-Waterproof-Terminal-Connectors-Soldering/dp/B01APDKV3W/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1528205878&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=solder+sleeves&psc=1

    P1050594.jpg


    • Hemostat clamps. I have 3 sizes of these. You will be surprised how many times these come in handle to lock onto and hold things. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RPL3O8...ing=UTF8&psc=1
    • Drill bits. Beside a good set of the numbered drill bits you will also need a G; C and N letter bits. They are on Amazon as well. I also just order a package of size 30 and 40 bits and toss them when they get dull. Don't forget to get the 12" long #30 and #40 bits.
    • Hand Rivet Gun. I got a really cheap one because we are going to grind it to pieces to make it work! Put it on the grinder and grind it until you see the guts and then keep going!!


    P1050508.jpg

    P1050507.jpg




    P1050579.jpg




    countersinnk.jpg

    I have a chart from Cleaveland Aircraft Tool Company that I hang on the wall here and use very often. One part has the numbered drill bit sized in decimal format so I can use my Digital Compass to check my drill bits before I use them and to compare sizes between maybe the #'d bits and the regular bit sizes. You can probably find one online to print and keep handy as you will find it handy.

    P1050651.jpg

    P1050652.jpg

    I also use lots of Denatured Alcohol. It's great for cleaning the plane and it will not interact with MEK (the ingredient in the Poly tak, brush and spray) or hurt paint or anything else in the airplane build that I am aware of and its great for getting rid of any oils, etc. on the surfaces before applying brush, spray, paint, etc.

    P1050593.jpg

    Also, it works great for removing any sharpie marks you have made. I just wait until I'm ready to start covering the parts and I use an air nozzle and spray everything off very good being sure to get rid on any metal shavings, rivet washers, etc etc and then go over everything with a rag and some denatured alcohol. Stay away from any silicone based lubricants like WD40. If you spray that in the garage where ANY little bit of it in the air gets on a covered surface.......problems. (fisheyed paint)
    Last edited by Daveembry; 12-13-2018 at 10:12 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  3. #3
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    Jul 2015
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WING BUILD

    Aileron False Spar.

    FIRST, INSTALL THE 2 TAIL RIBS BETWEEN RIBS 7 & 8 WE LEFT OUT PREVIOUSLY UNTIL WE HAD INSTALLED THE AFT RIB REINFORCEMENT BRACKETS.

    The manual is pretty straightforward here. Just note the the aileron false spar has 2 sections. The INBOARD end of the INBOARD section (XC31034-001) (in the inboard end of the aileron false spar) goes UNDER the flap false spar piece where it meets the machined rib and .........

    the INBOARD end of the OUTBOARD part (XC31033-001) of the 2 piece aileron false spar goes OVER the OUTBOARD end of the INBOARD PART where it joins at tail rib #9 ON THE TOP OF THE WING and goes UNDER the inboard piece on the BOTTOM OF THE WING. You will notice that it has to go this way in order to match drill through the parts into the tail rib because the OUTBOARD end of that INBOARD piece is pre-drilled.


    P1050616.jpg
    (This photo is showing where in INBOARD part of the aileron false spars meets the outboard end of the flap false spar. The false spar is on the left.)



    P1060821.jpg

    (This photo is the view of the right wing, rib #9 joint and shows that the inboard end of the outboard aileron false spar goes UNDER the outboard end of the inboard aileron false spar.)



    Also you do not have to bend the jointed areas as the manual states. The new aileron false spars have been altered by the factory to have a gap between them now so they won't actually nest into each other.

    Wiring.

    Here are pictures of the ends of the wires. You will have to drill a #40 hole in bay #9 to install the short, orange ground wire for the stall warning switch. The orange wire on the end of the wing tip lights will screw onto a pre-drilled hole that is on the inboard side of the end of the spar. The manual has call-out for the screw that works.

    I STRONGLY RECOMMEND DOING A CONTINUITY CHECK WITH YOUR VOLT METER BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE WIRES. You can do this anytime but it's much easier to do it before you install the wires since you can simply hold both ends of the wires in your hands and use the regular voltmeter leads now.

    P1050572.jpg

    P1050573.jpg
    (Wire for landing light is taped onto the spar just inboard of the #6 center rib.)

    P1050574.jpg
    (Wire for Stall Warning is taped onto the outboard side of the bay 9 intermediate rib .....so it's in bay 9 just before rib #10)

    P1050575.jpg

    P1050576.jpg
    Last edited by Daveembry; 04-14-2019 at 01:50 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WINGS

    Leading Edge Skins

    OK, we now have a set of the leading edge skin clamps (THANKS MARK!) so we can now install the leading edge skins on both wings. As I said before, please only get a set of the clamps after you have BOTH WINGS ready. It only takes a couple hours to install the skins so don't tie up a set of clamps by getting them when you first get the kit and then sit on them until you have both wings done. When you know you are close to getting both wings ready, get a set of them coming your way and then pop the skins on both wings in 1 day and then make them available .

    As I said before, CubCrafters had 22 set of these they made and now I could not locate a single set available. Where are they? Most likely people got them and are just sitting on them while people that are ready for them are stalled trying to get a set. CubCrafters was kind enough to make the sets up and loan them out at no charge so let's keep them circulating. Mitch has sent me enough of the materials to make up a few more set which I will do and get them back out into circulation. Please keep them moving.

    The way it works is that the person sending you the clamps will pay the shipping to you and then instead of reimbursing them, you will ship them "FORWARD" to the next person on your dime.

    I think there is a lot of apprehension on installing these skins. However, it is really quite easy and fun because the wing really starts to look like a wing here. With all the holes pre-drilled for rivets, it's pretty much a no-brainer now as you just line up the holes with the centers of the nose ribs......AND IF..... you have marked the centers of the ribs with your SHARPIE.....it's quite easy. Be sure and mark the center of the TOP and the BOTTOM of the nose ribs.

    P1050658.jpg

    To start with, you DO still have the outboard end of your rear spar sitting up 1" higher than the other 3 points on your sawhorses right?

    Following along in the Dropbox Wing Manual (yes, it's different than the current printed version I have) to layout the skins as shown on the Fig. W63 on page 173.

    I do NOT like to put duct tape on the skins like they say. The stuff sticks so good to those skins that I spend more time trying to get the sticky stuff off them later that it isn't worth it. Since these skins overlap the top and bottom of the front spar, they will almost stick in place by themselves and I just use a few spring clamps to hold them generally in place until I get the top rivet in place.

    The rivet holes that go into the nose ribs are pre-drilled. The side of the OUTBOARD skin that goes DOWN has the wider spacing between the 2 holes. It's the opposite for the next 3 skins.....the wider spacing goes UP. Also note that the outboard skin does not wrap all the way around and connect under the front spar. The other 3 do.

    Per the manual, start on the outboard skin and let it overhang the #12 rib by 1". You really won't have to worry about this because the holes are already pre-drilled, so place that skin over the top of the spar and slide it back forth until the pre-drilled top holes are aligned over the tops of the 1st rivet hole (down from the spar) is directly over the center of each of the nose ribs. You should be able to see the BLUE LINE (if you used a BLUE sharpie like me) inside the top hole. Don't worry about the other holes yet. At this point you are not worried about the bottom of the skin at all.....just leave it where it is.

    P1050661.jpg

    Be sure that the skin portion that is INSIDE the bay (the part that overlaps the top of the spar and wraps down into the bay) is flush against the spar on the side and also flush with the bottom of the spar bulb area. See Fig. W62. Clamps work good just as we did on the flap false spar.

    P1050660.jpg

    P1050659.jpg

    Next, take a #30 drill and drill the top rivet hole (1st hole down from the spar). Careful not to press too hard so you push the nose rib out of the way and that you are drilling into the BLUE LINE you marked. At this point, you can still reach up under the skin and move/hold the nose ribs in place while you drill if you need to. Install a cleco or rivet. Don't drill and rivet/cleco the inside edge yet. The next inboard skin will overlap this skin and rivet all at once. It's not as important on the new EX3 because these skins are thicker than the EX2 skins which would "tin can" more, but it's still best to generally start your drilling and riveting in the center of the skins and move inboard and outboard.

    The 2nd skin (from the outboard end) has the cut-out on the top for the pulley bracket that is on the top of the spar. Just bend, push/pull and it will go over it. Then just line up the pre-drilled holes in outboard end of this skin with the pre-drilled holes that are in the inboard end of the outboard skin. Check now to be sure you have again lined up all the top rivet holes for this skin with the BLUE LINE on the nose ribs. Move things around and then clamp in place again being sure to have the inside portions of the skins flush with the side and bottom of the spar bulb.

    Drill and rivet or cleco (I rivet.....if you are unsure....cleco for now!) all the top rivet holes on this skin.

    Just continue doing the same on all 4 skins.

    At this point, you should have all the top holes riveted. Now we are just going to go on down and do the 2nd row down from the spar. Same thing here........ reach up under the skin if you need to and move the nose rib around until you can see your BLUE LINE in the hole.......then while holding it there, take your other hand (your LEFT hand if right handed) and press down on the top of the skin with your fingers on EITHER SIDE of that rivet hole. When you press DOWN hard.....that rib will stay put while you reach up with your RIGHT HAND and get your drill (which of course you did leave sitting on your cart real close where you could easily reach it while still holding down on the skin) and drill the hole. Again....start in the middle of your skin and work out on either side of it. Don't press hard with your drill either as you may push the rib over to one side or the other.

    BEFORE I rivet it, I put the rivet in the hole and then reach around again and feel it to be sure the hole and rivet are near the center of the nose rib before I pull the trigger. Do all the 2nd holes of the rivets.

    OK.....now before we wrapped the skins around to the bottom of the spar, you DID install your landing light fixture right? (if you ordered it) in between ribs 5 & 6 right. It doesn't matter how it sits up there for now......You will reach up later and install it so just stick it up there and tape it loosely (not too much tape as you will have to take it off all shortly!).

    Next I take the outboard skin (the one that does not wrap all the way around the bottom of the front spar) and just wrap it around the nose skins, lift the end of the wing at that spar and then just set the spar back down and let the skin sit there for now. All we are doing now is just getting the skins into a position so we can install the clamps.

    P1050663.jpg

    P1050664.jpg

    Go to the next skin (from this outboard skin) and then just wrap it around and kindof horse it around until you can get that lip of the bottom of the skin to go around the bottom of the spar and pop up in place. You can then just put some clamps there for now to hold it in place. Note that the ends of the intermediate nose ribs will go inside the cutouts in the skins.

    P1050665.jpg

    The last, inboard skin (in the fuel tank bay) is pretty thick and harder to get up there so just so the same as what you did in the far outboard skin and just wrap it around the nose ribs and let it sit on the top of the sawhorse for now. Again, all we are doing is getting them up so we can get the clamps started.

    P1050666.jpg

    Go to the outboard skin, next to one of the 2 middle center ribs (there are 4 main ribs in each section with the last, inboard one being shared with the next skin) and put on 2 of the clamps LOOSELY. Just put them on enough to get the nuts started on the bolt going through the clamps. Put them about 1" or so from the vertical line of rivets in the skins that you just installed. This is to be sure and give you enough room on the bottom so you can still drill and rivet so don't get the clamps too close to the holes you intend to work on.

    Then, go under the skin and look up and line up the nose ribs.....again looking for the BLUE LINE ......in the holes. The outboard skin is no big deal because since it doesn't wrap around the spar, you can still get to the rib and move it a little each way to get the rib centered on the hole.....you can't do that with the other 3 skins. Once you wrap that skin around the bottom of the spar, you can't EASILY reach those ribs again.

    If you got the top 2 holes centered up nicely, then the bottom 2 holes should be real close. If they aren't lines up on the 3 more inboard skins, you can always push something down through the ends of the nose ribs from either the outboard or inboard end....and push on the nose rib a bit. Not fun....but it works if you have to. Try to line these up the best you can BEFORE tightening up the clamps because they are pretty hard to move once the clamps are tight.

    If the rib isn't lined up right.....be sure the clamps are loose on that skin and try using a sharp awl (if you can see at least "part" of the nose rib through the hole). Stick it up in the hole and poke it into the rib and then try to gently pry/nudge it in the right direction. If that doesn't work, you can also take a long screwdriver, etc. from the inboard side of the spar and run it down the nose rib where it sticks out under the spar. See if you can "nudge" it over this way. If that doesn't work, then take a long "something" and you can come in through the end (either at the wing root or wing tip end) and do the same thing. I actually have a "Hawaiian sling" that I use to spearfish with. It's a long fiberglass pole that fits nicely down through all the nose ribs. Just be sure you have doing all your moving with the clamps off or loose. Once they are tight it's pretty much impossible to move those nose ribs.

    Once they are lined up, just tighten the clamps until they are up flush around the skin all the way around (top, bottom and at the nose). If there is a gap on one side, tighten that end (top or bottom) until there is no gap. DON'T OVER DO IT..... I never use a wrench but just finger tight on the wing nuts are plenty enough. You can reach over the nose skins/ribs with one hand and let the front (outside) of the clamps hit you in the sternum and just push/pull the clamp towards the spar with your chest and using your other hand, tighten the wing nuts. When it's almost tight and only a small gap, then just use your fingers on the wing nuts to get it the final little bit. Don't over tighten or you will see the bends in the skin! Nice and snug is all you need. You will probably need to "wiggle" it left and right a little to be sure it is square with the wing. If you see a gap on 1 side and not the other, wiggle it until the gaps are equal left to right and top to bottom.

    Then add another clamp to the outboard end and snug it up. Lastly, add a clamp over the joint on the next skin but just to the right of the joint. DON'T TIGHTEN THIS CLAMP YET..... just get the nuts started and leave it loose. If you tighten it now, you might have gaps in the next inboard skin so we will wait and move the clamps over to the next skin.....start in the middle again and tighten the 2 middle ones.....then move back to this clamp at the joint and tighten it.

    P1050668.jpg

    P1050669.jpg

    So in this photo above, the 2 center clamps were installed and tightened first (after being sure the nose ribs blue line lined up with the holes on the bottom. (You can move these around some if you have to now since you can reach up and grab them.) Then the left one was installed and tightened. The far right one is on the inboard side of the joint. NO RIVETS OR HOLES WILL BE DRILLED ON THIS “JOINT” YET. WE WILL DRILL AND RIVET THE JOINT WHEN WE DO THE NEXT INBOARD SKIN.

    Here below you can see how the clamps are installed. Here you can see where one of the drag wires is in the way so I stacked some pieces of wood between the inboard side of the spar and the outside member of the clamp so it would clear the wire.

    P1050671.jpg

    P1050670.jpg

    So just drill the pre-drilled rivet holes and install the rivets in each section until you are done. Again......BEFORE INSTALLING THE BOTTOM RIVETS ON THE 3 INBOARD SKINS THAT WRAP AROUND THE BOTTOM OF THE SPAR, BE SURE THE LIP INSIDE IS FLUSH WITH THE SPAR BULB (Fig. W62).

    Lastly, just secure the "lips" that go over and around the spar top and bottom just like you did on the flap false spar using the jig or being sure the bottom of the skin is flush with the edge of the spar bulb.

    That's it. Who needs some clamps?????? :-)
    Last edited by Daveembry; 07-03-2018 at 08:27 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    Broken Arrow, OK
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WING SPARS


    • First thing to do is to lay out the spars on your saw horses and take a red/burgundy scotch bright pad and/or 320 sandpaper and be sure and go over the spar and sand/buff out any scratches no matter how minor they seem. If you can run your fingernail across it and feel it, you need to sand it out. This would be a stress point for future cracks. Then I clean the spars well using denatured alcohol.



    05652538-46C8-4860-B503-69D39B1B552E.jpeg



    • Manual on Page 39, Fig. W2 has the wrong rivet numbers listed. All the "AN" numbers are in the kit as comparable "MS" numbers. For example, it lists rivets AN470AD4-8 and you should use MS20470AD4-8 and so on for the others listed.
    • Fig. W2 doesn't show the rivets for the rear spar fittings but they should be the same ones.
    • You can use your hand squeeze riveter for everything except the middle hole in the front spar jury strut attach fitting. These are not shown being installed until later on page 62 but you can put them on now. You will have to buck that one or you can use a cherrymax rivet (CR3213-4-4) instead and just pull that with your hand rivet puller (or your pneumatic one).


    3 hours 55 minutes into the build I have all attach fittings installed and tubes in place.

    1CCFF744-AFEA-48D2-B007-805CD0DE3FD9.jpeg

    Note here that instead of using castle nuts on the 2 bolts on the front spar temporarily, I just use the correct lock nuts called for but don't tighten them for now. Anywhere on the build where I need to draw attention to the fact that I have some unfinished business (like torquing these 2 nuts) I just use my blue sharpie and mark on the parts to flag me. Later just use a little denatured alcohol to remove any markings. Note that I always use torque seal on all nuts as soon as I torque them.

    P1050490.jpg

    P1050489.jpg

    I also have a method of pulling parts for the sections I'm working on. Note in this photo how I mark the manual figure. As I pull the parts, I lay them on the figure next to where they are shown and then take a yellow highlighter and mark that part number on the manual. Also note that I make a note on common parts in the manual as to where these parts are located. Like "T6" (Tote #6) next to part number in the manual and then when I know I'm going to have to pull these again (like at least for the right wing when I do it), I don't have to go search the parts list again to find out where that part is.

    P1050484.jpg

    If I am missing any parts I mark those parts on the figure with an orange highlighter, then I place the parts in one of the small, magnetic parts holders along with a note saying what those parts are for and what I'm waiting on. I then set it aside and after I email Mitch with the part numbers I'm missing and receive the parts. Then I just go back to that section and finish. Most of the time you can go ahead in the manual and work on other sections for a couple days until you get the parts. In this case I could not find my letter N and C drill bits and had to order a couple on Amazon so I set the parts I had pulled for the rear spar wing attach fitting aside until the bits arrive so I can pre-drill and then ream the holes and attach it. I went ahead and attached all the other fittings and tubes until the bits come in today. Amazon prime is great with the 2 day shipping.

    P1050485.jpg

    Just a note on parts management. I think one of the most time consuming things in the build is gathering parts needed for the section you are working on. First I'm sure to take a full inventory of all parts on the "Packing List" to be sure I've received them. I then unpack the parts and consolidate them into a few boxes.

    P1050492.jpg

    Attachment 7758

    3F0162BD-6485-461E-8DA8-EA91564BC4BD.jpeg

    You will notice the PACKING LISTS have a title on each page(s) like BOX 1, or SKP 1, etc. I then put several of them in big ziplock bags (for the smaller parts) into a box and label that box with the contents. Then when looking for a part from the manual, I first go to the packing lists and find it (it's in alphabetical order for each package on the packing lists), then I can simply go to the box/ziplock that has those parts and pull them.

    For the big TOTES, I take the inventory list that comes with them and take highlighters and run through all the pages and simply mark them by part number, grouping the starting numbers. In this picture you can see that I used a yellow highlights and marked all the HDW parts; an orange one for all the MS type parts and the blue sharpie to mark all "OTHER" misc. numbers. I don't mark the AN parts numbers because that is the vast majority of the parts on the lists.

    P1050491.jpg

    Then when looking for a small parts (bolts, washers, nuts, rivets, etc) then I first go to this inventory sheet and can quickly scan the pages looking by color code first. Then when I find it, I simply go to that TOTE # (listed at the top of each page) and pull the parts.

    ROTATORS

    I got the Bogert rotators for the wings and fusehere https://bogertaviation.com/collectio...on-cub-rotator.

    I go to Home Depot or Harbor Freight (much cheaper on everything) and get some castering wheels and added them which makes it MUCH nicer as you can just push it around in the hangar/garage, etc. and when it comes time to move from the build area to the hangar, you just wheel it up into the enclosed trailer and secure.

    Note that you won’t use the rotators on the wings for the build because you have to keep a 1” block under the outboard, rear spar the entire time. You could put the wing onto the rotator to cover but for me it’s just easier to leave them the sawhorses to build and cover. They are lightweight and easy to just flip over when covering the other side.

    Building the fuse if MUCH easier using the rotator.

    When I build my wing holding fixture, I also add some castering wheels to them as well making them easier to move around in the build area and onto the trailer, etc.

    The rotators are great for painting on both the wings and the fuse but you can only do 1 wing at a time which is OK as most paint booths aren’t large enough to hold 2 anyway.

    So I build a wing on the sawhorses to the point of needing a set of wing clamps and move it to the wing dollie. Then I build the 2nd wing.......get a set of the leading edge wing clamps headed my way and then put the leading edge skins on each one and get the clamps back available for the next person that needs them so I’m not holding anyone up.

    I then cover and apply tapes on the wings on the sawhorses (or you could then put it on the rotator but note you will have to remove it from then rotator and back to saw horses during the cover process anyway, so I just cover them entirely on the saw horses).

    After both wings are covered, I then roll them up in the trailer and take to the hangar and cover them completely in some light plastic to keep any contaminates (like any silicone sprays, WD-40, oil, dirt, etc) off until ready to paint.

    Then you can mount up your fuse onto the rotator and complete the entire build (except that you will have to take the front off the rotator when you fit and build your boot cowl) and cover. Then wheel it into the trailer and right into the paint booth. After paint, wheel it back to the build area for the remainder of the build.

    For painting I use the rotator for everything. They are great for a couple of reasons. You can angle them so the paint booth lights hit the area perfect that you are spraying the paint onto and you can flip the wing over to do the opposite sides. Most of the time you will be spaying with the wings at about a 45 degree angle to get the best light.

    Secondly, as you spray the paint and if you get it just a tad too thick and it starts to sag or a slight run, just tip the rotator to either level or even in the opposite direction to get the paint back flat. With the DUHS CC paint I use, it will continue to flatten out for 24 hour it seems. So just keep a good eye on the area you just sprayed and tilt the rotator as needed. If one spot has a little sag or run, just leave the rotator so that area is level and the next day you will probably see the sag or run has flowed out.

    The rotators seem to have a good resale as well. They are heavy for shipping but they ship without the main piece of tubing which you buy locally. I would also get a thick wall tubing as well for mounting the wings as it does tend to bow down in the center with the tubing I got. I can’t recall the thickness but it was the recommended thickness. I would go thicker.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Daveembry; 07-21-2019 at 07:35 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broken Arrow, OK
    Posts
    506

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WING BUILD

    Finishing the false spars.

    The manual is good on this. Note that the rivet HEADS go to the OUTBOARD side when installing the brackets on the aileron hangar. This is not the normal way a rivet goes so just wanted to point that out. There will be fabric up in that aileron bay and if you do it the other way then you will have the big, back part of the rivets sticking out.

    P1050578.jpg

    P1050577.jpg

    Also note that on Dropbox page 139, Section 32 that you do NOT want to do that step of drilling holes, etc. for the flap aileron hanger until you have done the next step Section 33, Install Aileron False Spar starting on the next page, 140. So do Section 33 before doing Section 32.

    PITOT TUBE TUBING

    If you are using the G3X with the AOA pitot tube, then you will need to install the pitot tube bracket and the green and blue pitot tubes. Look at the "EXECUTIVE GLASS" manual in Dropbox, Page 34 to see the info. The actual “Mast” part of the Garmin GAP26 AOA pitot tube you will put in your “little parts to be painted” box and will install it into the bracket here .....through an inspection hole behind the spar here after you get your wings installed and are finishing up. NOTE: Leave more of the tubing exiting the bracket than shown here to make it easier to install later when finishing up. Leaving on this much made it hard for me to install it onto the pitot. Just leave about 6" or so at the wing root and let the rest come out this bracket for now.

    Note that you will need to install a rubber grommet into the #4 & #5 center, ribs here where the 2 green and blue tubes will go through. This is also in the Executive Glass manual on Page 34. MS35489-19 are the 2 they shipped with the kit for me. The manual calls for them to be a -17 but the -19's are the correct ones. The tubes will go in the back channel of the front spar until it gets past the fuel tanks and then they will go up and through these bottom grommets in #4 & #5 center ribs.

    P1050584.jpg
    (NOTE that in this photo I had not yet installed the GROMMET into that last #5 center rib. You have to install it first.)

    P1050585.jpg

    The difference is that with the EX3 that has the solid nose skins from top to bottom of the front spar, we have to install nutplates into the spar to screw the pitot tube bracket into. It has the 4 NARROW holes about 72" from the center hole of the front spar attach fitting in bay #5. There are 4 other holes drilled for nutplates already out in bay #6 but we are not going to use this. The factory mounts their ADHRS unit here and we will mount ours in the boot cowl.

    If your spar is not predrilled for the nutplates, it probably just has the 1 center hole pre-drilled like in the photos below in bay #5. Use the nutplate tool I recommended in the first post about tools and it makes it much easier to drill out the #40 holes on either side of the big holes that are pre-drilled.

    P1050579.jpg

    P1050580.jpg

    P1050581.jpg

    You can see here that there is a big knob in the middle that you put in the big, center hole to drill your first hole.

    P1050582.jpg

    After you have drilled the first hole on one side, then flip the tool over and put the big knob in the center hole again and the small knob/pin will go into the hole you just drilled. Then just drill the 2nd hole and your nut plate will fit perfect.

    P1050587.jpg


    LANDING LIGHTS

    The manual say to prep the landing light housings by installing the nutplates but I think they come from the factory now with the nutplates installed. You do NOT need to cut the 1/8" or so off either side of the housing to give you some room to fit it just right. (At least the ones I have had plenty of room on either side between the nose ribs.) You can use the dremel tool with cutoff blade if you do need to.

    UPDATE: 04/15/19. Mitch confirmed the factory is now shipping the housings 0.40" trimmed off so the new fixture is 7.25" in width and will require no trimming. So if your housing is 7.25" then you don't need to trim it.

    NOTE: When I cut or sand on carbon fiber, I always do it in front of a fan with the fan blowing from behind me. That keeps the carbon fiber dust blowing away from me all the time and that way I don't bother wearing a mask, gloves, etc. You may have to do both left and right light housing this way.

    Once it's trimmed, put in on the inboard side of the #6 rib (in the #5 bay.) Your wires should be coming out in that bay. Just put a strip of wide masking tape along the bottom of the nose ribs there and set it on that. You just need to hold it up in place for now as we will fit it later after installing the leading edge skins.

    P1050589.jpg

    NOW SINCE I DON'T HAVE ANY LEADING EDGE SKIN CLAMPS, I AM GOING TO FINISH DOING WHAT I CAN ON THIS WING AND THEN START ON THE RIGHT WING AND GET IT TO THE SAME POINT. THEN I WILL GET THE LEADING EDGE SKIN CLAMPS FROM SOMEONE AND POP THE SKINS ON BOTH WINGS AT THE SAME TIME. IT WILL ONLY TAKE A FEW HOURS TO DO BOTH WINGS. THIS WAY, I'M NOT HOLDING UP SOMEONE ELSE WHO MIGHT NEED THE CLAMPS.


    UPDATE: GO FORWARD TO THE NEXT PAGE AND LOOK AT POST #22 I DID NOW REGARDING INSTALLING THE LEADING EDGE SKINS, THEN COME BACK HERE AND CONTINUE.



    INSTALLING THE FAIRLEADS.

    I use to HATE doing these. Once I finally figured it out, it was very easy. It's hard to explain and I can't take a photo since you need both hands but I will try and explain. Note on page 197, Section 50 and Fig. W76 that there are 2 sizes of fairlead we will use. 1 is thicker than the other and you will see that it goes in all 3 of the double ribs we did (Ribs #1,3,5) and the other is a thinner one that goes into ribs 4,6,7 & 8.

    First take the fairlead and be sure you are holding it completely through the rib so that the groove that we will be putting the snap ring into is completely visible on the side of the rib we will be putting the ring on.

    P1050588.jpg

    I use my left index and middle fingers on the back side to hold constant pressure on it because the secret is to be sure that groove stays completely through the rib. In this photo, the only thing I could not do (since I had to hold the camera) was to put my left thumb on the left END of the snap ring (up at the top left in the photo) and take some good pliers and hold the opposite end of the snap ring as shown.

    Be SURE that the left end that you have your thumb on is into the groove and KEEP IT THERE WITH YOUR THUMB. Then keeping constant HARD pressure from the backside and on your thumb, twist the pliers in a counter clockwise (left) direction while pushing it towards the rib. Work on getting the bottom of the ring into the groove (while keeping the end under your thumb in the groove as well). With practice, it will just snap right into the groove enough for you to turn loose of the pliers and then usually the very right, top end (the end you had the pliers on) may still stick up a little onto the fairlead but you can just use the end of the pliers to push it on over into the groove. Practice makes perfect and you will have plenty to do on the wings and on the fuselage. Good luck. I had more cussing from trying to do these I think than any other part of the build!! But now I just snap them right on....so it will work!


    LEADING EDGE SKIN PREP

    This consist of installing the nutplates in the bay #1 leading edge skins. I like using the pop rivets HDW-04-0981 instead of squeezing because it's easier and leave a better looking surface usually. Also, I don't use a dimpler to countersink the holes but use my microstop countersink tool instead.

    Take a fat sharpie and mark the centerline of each nose rib TOP & BOTTOM. Be sure it's in the center and very visible. Later we are going to drill holes in the skins and then look through the hole and make sure we see this sharpie line through the hole before we drill through it to install the rivets. This is like we did the tail ribs on the flap false spar.

    P1050590.jpg
    Last edited by Daveembry; 04-15-2019 at 02:55 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broken Arrow, OK
    Posts
    506

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WINGS

    Leading Edge Skins - Finishing


    One nice thing to do before drilling the skins to the spars is to first put a little masking tape under the top part to catch the drilling metal when you drill the holes. If you don't the chips will all go down in the bottom spar channel. We will blow all this out really good before covering anyway but might as well as keep it as clean as we can to start with.

    When drilling the holes, be sure you use a drill stop to keep from drilling into the spar web and keep the skin lip up tight to the spar so the drilling metal/chips won't get stuck between the skin and the spar (since we can't take it off and blow out the chips first). Here is where you will wish you had bought some of the "good, sharp bits" instead of those cheap, dull ones!

    P1050673.jpg

    P1050674.jpg

    Drill and rivet one of the center holes first and pull the rivet. Then drill a hole on either side of that rivet working to the outside in both directions. With one hand, push down on the skin material between the rivet you installed and the one you are going to drill next to be sure to get it lying flat and not bowed out. I also like to drill at just a SLIGHT angle outward...away from the rivet I already installed. Then when I put the rivet in the hole it will tend to "lean" towards the rivet. I then take my pneumatic rivet gun over the rivet and then make sure it's straight up and completely against the skin/spar when I pull it. This is just a way of keep the skin lying flat without little gaps and bows.

    P1050675.jpg


    LANDING LIGHT LENS HOLDER

    This is pretty straight forward. You are going to drill with #40 bit for the small pop rivets and instead of changing the head out on the micro-stop when I only have a few holes to countersink, I just use my deburring tool here.

    P1050676.jpg

    P1050677.jpg

    You are pulling this rivet into plastic, which is soft. If you happen to have one of these small rivets pull through the plastic, you can always put a small washer on the backside of the rivet before you pull it.

    Use the denatured alcohol and q-tips to clean up the meth are you put it in the bottom of the lens holder.

    I have 48 hours and 45 minutes in total build so far to this point.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 07-21-2018 at 07:26 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broken Arrow, OK
    Posts
    506

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    POLY FIBER INFO:

    Just a little info here generally on using the Poly Fiber system. If you get the Poly Fiber manual and read it and then read the CubCrafters way of doing it....they don't jive. I questioned them extensively over the differences and they had plausible reasons and a long proven success record doing it their way......so.....I do it their way.

    POLY BRUSH

    • You mix 3 part Poly Brush with 1 part of the reducer (2 different types of reducer depending on your temps) but R 65-75 seems to be most commonly used. The difference is the temperatures you are working in.
    • Put 2 coats down before putting down the tapes; then 1 coat with the tapes and then 1 final coat on top of the tapes after the install coat has cured.
    • Allow 2 hours minimum between coats. Best to let it sit 24 hours to let the MEK "gas off" completely before installing the next coat.
    • Next you will spray the Poly Brush onto a section about 3' x 3' with an HLVP using 2.4 tip. Immediately wipe the brush into the fabric using a 4" foam brush. DO NOT overwork the Polybrush. You just want to smooth and even it out and you don't have much time to do that. Spray it quick......and then run the brush across the area maybe 1 time in either direction and then stop. If the brush starts to "drag" in the Poly Brush, it's too dry and you waited too long. You will leave streaks in it. So work quick! Smooth it and get out of there.
    • You do NOT brush the first coat on using a natural bristle brush as Poly Fiber says to do. They say to put the entire first coat of PolyBrush on the fabric using a paint brush. CC doesn't do that. The reason is that it's much too slow and you will end up with a "patch quilt" of areas you have brushed on (because it dries so fast you will have dry edges on wet edges, etc). Spraying and then smoothing with the foam brush leaves a nice, even finish....plus I like having the Poly Brush pushed down into the fabric with the air pressure of the spray gun.
    • After this coat has cured; spray only a 2nd coat.
    • When you first start to spray the 2 brush coats, first spray the leading edge areas (that has the sheet metal under it) and brush it in. Then do the rest of the wing and then go back over the leading edge a 2nd time before you stop (by doing it at the beginning and the end of your session, it will be dried from the coat you first put on when you started) . On the 2nd coat that you are only spraying on, you STILL want to brush in 2 coats onto the leading edge area. (so there are 2 coats brushed into the leading edge metal on each coat)
    • Before applying the first coat of Poly Spray (the "silver"), go over EVERYTHING on your fabric. Take your hobby iron and smooth out all seams, any glue lumps or globs of Poly Brush. The iron will take out virtually EVERYTHING. Also go down all the edges of the tapes with the iron and be sure they are ironed down to lay flat. If you used plenty of Poly Brush on the edges, then you shouldn't have many sticking up but I go over the edge of every tape with the iron at about 300 degrees and the edge will almost "melt" into the Poly Brush and look very nice. This takes alot of time but go over and over it with your eyes and your hands trying to feel any bumps or rough areas. Once your spray the Poly Spray, you can't do any ironing!! So do it now. You will think you have it really nice.....until you spray that first coat of Poly Spray! It will show every minor thing....every glob of poly tak glue you used too much of.....every hair from your cheap chip brush you used to apply the tak or PolyBrush; every glob of PolyBrush where you dripped it on the fabric and didn't clean it off.


    POLY SPRAY

    • You mix 4 parts Poly Spray with 1 part of the reducer. You do not do 3 cross coats (6 coats total; 3 in either direction as Poly Fiber says to do) but instead only do 2 coats total (not cross coats). You can do very minimal sanding between coats ONLY IF YOU NEED TO. No need to sand unless there is a problem with you having maybe sprayed it too dry (too far away from the surface). Any spray you sand you......you have to add back.
    • If the edges of the tapes comes up in any areas now you can sand them down. It's usually just a "tooth" or 2. If you do alot of sanding then you will have to spray another coat on. After the 2nd coat and before spraying your top color coats you can lightly wet sand if you think there is a need to but do it very lightly and only if there is a reason to. Poly Spray does NOT have to be sanded. Any areas you see that you would like to "fix" can NOT be done now. A bad spot (a glue seam, a hair from your paint brush, a clump of Poly Brush, etc) is UNDER the Poly Spray and should have been fixed before spraying. If you sand down now, you will just go to the PolyBrush and it doesn't sand.
    • Seems like many people think they have to do lots of sanding but you don't. Run your hand over the entire surface. If there is something there like some dust that got into the surface of Poly Spray or if you sprayed it "dry" (spray nozzle too far from the surface or not enough paint coming out of the gun, etc) it could be rough on the surface and you can lightly wet sand that to get it smoother but most of your top coat paints will go over any roughness in the Poly Spray and you will never notice it. The top coat paint (Like the PPG DUHS" that Cubcrafters uses) will fully cover that and smooth/level out over the spray. If you have watched your work as you progressed and have used the hobby iron on any excess glue, seams, tape edges, etc. then you will have little to worry about. The biggest problem I have Had is using way too much glue and not smoothing it out while it's still wet. It shows and is much harder to smooth out later. Just use a little glue when you apply it and be sure to either apply it smooth with the brush or be sure and smooth it out with your gloved hand or brush as you apply the fabric to it and before it sets up. Look close and get rid of any glue lines or globs or seams or glue now. Even if you have to iron the glue out it's much easier done now before it gets really hard.
    • Allow several days after the last spray coat to let it gas off before spraying on top coat color. If you don't, it will leave little "bubbles" or pinholes in the color surface.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 08-23-2018 at 10:53 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    Posts
    8

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    I believe your instructions for thinning the Poly Brush and Poly Spray are backwards (see in red below). You should mix 3 parts Poly Brush with 1 part Reducer, and 4 parts Poly Spray with 1 part Reducer.

    Mike




    Quote Originally Posted by Daveembry View Post
    POLY FIBER INFO:

    Just a little info here generally on using the Poly Fiber system. If you get the Poly Fiber manual and read it and then read the CubCrafters way of doing it....they don't jive. I questioned them extensively over the differences and they had plausible reasons and a long proven success record doing it their way......so.....I do it their way.

    POLY BRUSH

    • You mix 1 part Poly Brush with 3 parts of the reducer (2 different types of reducer depending on your temps) but R 65-75 seems to be most commonly used. The difference is the temperatures you are working in.
    • Put 2 coats down before putting down the tapes; then 1 coat with the tapes and then 1 final coat on top of the tapes after the install coat has cured.
    • Allow 2 hours minimum between coats. Best to let it sit 24 hours to let the MEK "gas off" completely before installing the next coat.
    • Next you will spray the Poly Brush onto a section about 3' x 3' with an HLVP using 2.4 tip. Immediately wipe the brush into the fabric using a 4" foam brush. DO NOT overwork the Polybrush. You just want to smooth and even it out and you don't have much time to do that. Spray it quick......and then run the brush across the area maybe 1 time in either direction and then stop. If the brush starts to "drag" in the Poly Brush, it's too dry and you waited too long. You will leave streaks in it. So work quick! Smooth it and get out of there.
    • You do NOT brush the first coat on using a natural bristle brush as Poly Fiber says to do. They say to put the entire first coat of PolyBrush on the fabric using a paint brush. CC doesn't do that. The reason is that it's much too slow and you will end up with a "patch quilt" of areas you have brushed on (because it dries so fast you will have dry edges on wet edges, etc). Spraying and then smoothing with the foam brush leaves a nice, even finish....plus I like having the Poly Brush pushed down into the fabric with the air pressure of the spray gun.
    • After this coat has cured; spray only a 2nd coat.
    • When you first start to spray the 2 brush coats, first spray the leading edge areas (that has the sheet metal under it) and brush it in. Then do the rest of the wing and then go back over the leading edge a 2nd time before you stop (by doing it at the beginning and the end of your session, it will be dried from the coat you first put on when you started) . On the 2nd coat that you are only spraying on, you STILL want to brush in 2 coats onto the leading edge area. (so there are 2 coats brushed into the leading edge metal on each coat)
    • Before applying the first coat of Poly Spray (the "silver"), go over EVERYTHING on your fabric. Take your hobby iron and smooth out all seams, any glue lumps or globs of Poly Brush. The iron will take out virtually EVERYTHING. Also go down all the edges of the tapes with the iron and be sure they are ironed down to lay flat. If you used plenty of Poly Brush on the edges, then you shouldn't have many sticking up but I go over the edge of every tape with the iron at about 300 degrees and the edge will almost "melt" into the Poly Brush and look very nice. This takes alot of time but go over and over it with your eyes and your hands trying to feel any bumps or rough areas. Once your spray the Poly Spray, you can't do any ironing!! So do it now. You will think you have it really nice.....until you spray that first coat of Poly Spray! It will show every minor thing....every glob of poly tak glue you used too much of.....every hair from your cheap chip brush you used to apply the tak or PolyBrush; every glob of PolyBrush where you dripped it on the fabric and didn't clean it off.


    POLY SPRAY

    • You mix 1 part Poly Spray with 4 parts of the reducer. You do not do 3 cross coats (6 coats total; 3 in either direction as Poly Fiber says to do) but instead only do 2 coats total (not cross coats). You can do very minimal sanding between coats ONLY IF YOU NEED TO. No need to sand unless there is a problem with you having maybe sprayed it too dry (too far away from the surface). Any spray you sand you......you have to add back.
    • If the edges of the tapes comes up in any areas now you can sand them down. It's usually just a "tooth" or 2. If you do alot of sanding then you will have to spray another coat on. After the 2nd coat and before spraying your top color coats you can lightly wet sand if you think there is a need to but do it very lightly and only if there is a reason to. Poly Spray does NOT have to be sanded. Any areas you see that you would like to "fix" can NOT be done now. A bad spot (a glue seam, a hair from your paint brush, a clump of Poly Brush, etc) is UNDER the Poly Spray and should have been fixed before spraying. If you sand down now, you will just go to the PolyBrush and it doesn't sand.
    • Seems like many people think they have to do lots of sanding but you don't. Run your hand over the entire surface. If there is something there like some dust that got into the surface of Poly Spray or if you sprayed it "dry" (spray nozzle too far from the surface or not enough paint coming out of the gun, etc) it could be rough on the surface and you can lightly wet sand that to get it smoother but most of your top coat paints will go over any roughness in the Poly Spray and you will never notice it. The top coat paint (Like the PPG DUHS" that Cubcrafters uses) will fully cover that and smooth/level out over the spray. If you have watched your work as you progressed and have used the hobby iron on any excess glue, seams, tape edges, etc. then you will have little to worry about. The biggest problem I have Had is using way too much glue and not smoothing it out while it's still wet. It shows and is much harder to smooth out later. Just use a little glue when you apply it and be sure to either apply it smooth with the brush or be sure and smooth it out with your gloved hand or brush as you apply the fabric to it and before it sets up. Look close and get rid of any glue lines or globs or seams or glue now. Even if you have to iron the glue out it's much easier done now before it gets really hard.
    • Allow several days after the last spray coat to let it gas off before spraying on top coat color. If you don't, it will leave little "bubbles" or pinholes in the color surface.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broken Arrow, OK
    Posts
    506

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    THROTTLE QUADRANTS

    This is a fun little project but a little confusing.

    I start by getting all the main parts together and then I take a silver sharpie and I write the part numbers on the larger, black parts as I take them out of the plastic bags so I can see the part numbers as I put the puzzle together.

    I separate the parts into the front and the rear and work on 1 at a time.

    Notice on the Fig. FS26 that the 2 main areas are the bottom and the top parts of the FRONT quadrant, because it is different and a bit more complicated than the rear because there are 2 screws everything mounts onto at the bottom of the quadrant and the rear is just 1.

    So lay the parts out and then build them on the bench first and then tape them together (so they don't all fall apart as you take them to the fuse and install them). The front one is harder because you can build the aft section of the lower part (with the screw you get from the kit) but you have to assemble the parts onto the forward bolt (of the lower part) that is welded into the fuse. So you put the rear part and the top parts together on the bench and then go to the fuse and start installing it but you will have to put the parts together on that front bolt (including the throttle and prop handles).

    Here is my figure notes on the front showing the BOTTOM OF QUADRANT and the TOP OF QUADRANT.

    P1050924.jpg

    P1050925.jpg

    Here are photos of the quadrants installed. These are the front one first.

    P1050915.jpg

    P1050916.jpg

    P1050917.jpg

    P1050918.jpg

    P1050919.jpg

    Here are photos of the rear quadrant.

    P1050920.jpg

    P1050921.jpg

    P1050922.jpg

    P1050923.jpg


    NOTE that I had the parts SC58102-004 and -005 reversed in the packages. The triangular piece goes on the rear and the one with the 2 holes on the bottom, goes on the forward quadrant.

    I also take a qtip dipped in white grease after I'm finished and swab it in between the plastic parts that the throttle and prop handles slide on. You can put the knobs on the handles for now if you want but they will have to come off later when you install the interior panel over the top.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 05-18-2019 at 09:18 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

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