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Thread: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

  1. #111
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    REGISTERING THE AIRCRAFT

    Today I sent in my paperwork to get the registration started with FAA. I had previously reserved an N number. This gets the registration done which you will need when you set up the final inspection and get your Airworthiness Inspection.

    There are 4 things you need to send to FAA to get that started.

    1. A Bill of Sale from Mitch.
    2. Complete FAA Form 8050-1. Aircraft Registration Application. You can download it from here and fill it out and sign it. Only 1 copy needed to be filed. https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/...m/AC8050-1.pdf
    3. Complete FAA Form 8050-88 Affidavit of Ownership for experimental Aircraft. THIS HAS TO BE NOTARIZED FIRST. https://www.faa.gov/licenses_certifi...ia/8050-88.pdf
    4. A check to FAA for $5.00 if you already have a reserved N number and $10 if you don't.

    I have actually attached a file that has these 4 things as I completed them. I put them in a corporation name so you can see that that name is used everywhere as the Manufacturer or Builder and you can see how the other areas of the forms are filled in. If you are registering the aircraft in your name then use it everywhere for these items.

    These 4 items should be mailed by USPS to:

    FAA Aircraft Registration Branch, AFS-750
    PO Box 25504
    Oklahoma City, OK 73125-0504

    By Commercial Service to:

    FAA Aircraft Registration Branch, AFS-750
    Registry Building Room 118
    6425 South Denning
    Oklahoma City, OK 73169-6937

    That's all there is to it now. There is alot more paperwork to be done for the final Airworthiness Certificate which I'll share when I do it right before my inspection. Send this in early as it takes a bit for them to complete it and mail you your registration. If you make a mistake and have to correct it, your application goes to the back of the stack in some far, distant in-basket and then takes forever (unless you beg like I did on the last one).
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-11-2019 at 06:02 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  2. #112
    Senior Member David H's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Dave (and all kit builders)
    EAA helps a lot with this process. Great instructions here:

    https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-bui...uilt-aircraft#


    Fantastic colllection of all the forms and how to fill them out correctly the first time. Well worth it:

    https://www.eaa.org/Shop/ProductCata...SubTopicID=945

    David

  3. #113
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    I agree! That's why I put those links back in my Post #95. haha! Thanks

    "I recommend purchasing the EAA publications. Here is a link to the process https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-bui...built-aircraft and here is the link to their CERTIFICATION GUIDE. I used this for the first plane and it was great with a complete checklist of exactly what you need to do and in the correct order/timing along with all the FAA Forms
    needed.
    https://www.eaa.org/Shop/ProductCata...SubTopicID=945"






    Quote Originally Posted by David H View Post
    Dave (and all kit builders)
    EAA helps a lot with this process. Great instructions here:

    https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-bui...uilt-aircraft#


    Fantastic colllection of all the forms and how to fill them out correctly the first time. Well worth it:

    https://www.eaa.org/Shop/ProductCata...SubTopicID=945

    David
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  4. #114
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    JURY STRUTS

    In the manual around page 190 starts the jury strut install. Pretty self explanatory but a couple of notes:

    1. The figure and the photo of the direction of the bolt head differ. FN52 shows the bolt head on the inboard side but the photo next to it shows the opposite. Per the rules, ignore the incorrect photo and use the figure.
    2. Be sure and pay special attention to the torque values on the last page 193, especially for the bottom ones because there is a plastic bushing in place, you donít want to over tighten that and mess up the bushing. That is why itís only 28 in lbs on the bottom and 40 on the top.
    3. IGNORE part about burning holes and installing the pitot tube if you got the G3X with the Gap26 pitot tube. One of the front jury struts has a tube coming out of it. Donít use that one if you have the G3X. In the kit should be another, regular tube without the perpendicular tube coming out of it. The Gap26 G3X pitot installs into the wing through the bracket that should have been installed when building the wing.
    4. There are 2 lengths of jury struts. Since we painted them, there wonít be any parts numbers still attached to them probably but the slightly longer one goes on the aft spars.


    AOA PITOT HOSES

    If you got the G3X Executive Glass, then you will need to connect the blue and green tubes coming from the wing to the ones in the left wing root. There isn't anything in the Exec. Glass Manual or Finish Manual about this but you need to use the HDW261-739 In Line Connectors and VP9050-007 Inserts. This is the number of these inserts that came with my latest kit. It is the same inserts at the NORMAL HDW-261-765 number. For some reason, this was an alternate number used....so use whichever you have in your kit. These should be in one of the G3X Totes. Do not use any thread sealer.


    P1060613.jpg


    P1060614.jpg


    P1060616.jpg


    P1060615.jpg


    FUEL SIGHT GAUGES

    The manual says to cut the hose on the lower sight gauge to 4.5Ē and that is way too long and much harder to cut again later after the wing is on than now. I make them 2.25Ē and the upper ones at 2.0Ē instead of the 2.5Ē.

    You will need to trim the actual plastic sight gauge a bit on the TOP only, when you install it. That's easy to do. The lower ones are easier to be sure it's cut to length (about 2.25" long) and go ahead and install the surge preventer into it first, then slide the lower end of the fuel sight gauge plastic (clear) through the header grommet and onto the metal valve. Use a little Armorall again to help.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-22-2019 at 04:19 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  5. #115
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    FLIGHT TESTING

    Jumping ahead just a bit but we are getting close to flying this sucker. I ordered and received the new FLIGHT TEST MANUAL and FLIGHT TEST CARDS from EAA and they are excellent! I highly recommend ordering this from EAA at https://www.eaa.org/shop/ProductCata...ubTopicID=957# for members it's only $17.95 for EAA members and $22.95 if you aren't.

    Most of this info is on the FLIGHT TEST documents in Dropbox, but this has great explanations of each test in the Manual and the cards are great for the cockpit to record stats during the test.

    P1060617.jpg
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-19-2019 at 05:31 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  6. #116
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WINDSHIELD

    I would change the order up a little from the manual in that I would do everything inside the wing roots first before putting in the windshield. This gives you more room to reach around, etc. Just skip ahead in the manual and connect the fuel lines; pitot tubes and wiring in the wing roots first. Be sure and use the little nylon inserts in the fuel lines before putting them into the fittings. Don't use any fuel lube or thread sealer on these nuts.

    The WIRING CHART I did shows where all the wires go to but they are pretty self explanatory.

    I would first connect the AOA pitot tube lines; then the fuel lines, then lastly the wires. I would not tie wrap anything now but wait until you are done with everything like windshield and flap rods are done to be sure to have them out of the way properly.

    Also, I don't like to install my side windows yet. It's just easier to work all around the windshield, wiring, etc etc. when you can just reach around from any angle and not have anything in the way. I just tape them up in place where they will go so I can mark the front, bottom of each window so I can place the windshield liner to be flush with the bottom of it. I also go ahead and and mark the side window for painting. The bottom of the window will line up with the bottom of the windshield liner and the top will line up with the TOP of the same liner, then the front edge of the window will paint just out far enough to cover the metal frame.

    The video Mitch did is very good but differs from the manual a bit. The manual says to put the windshield in place and then put the windshield liner to it and the video shows to first lay out the liner and then fit the windshield to the liner. This is the better approach I think because you control where the ends of the liner goes so that it will match perfectly with the bottom of the side window instead of ding it like the manual says which has you following the windshield which would not let the ends line up perfectly without trimming the windshield.

    Mark the center of the liner; mark the center of the boot cowl on the tape or Gerbermask you have covering the paint (arenít you glad we saved that from the previous parts it was on? It isn't pretty but who cares...it's just to protect the boot cowl). I am going to paint the area on the boot cowl INSIDE to a matt black, so I don't care about protecting that really.

    Mark the 1.5Ē and 2.75Ē places from the front, upper end of the boot cowl and align the liner center mark on the 1.5Ē centerline mark and tape into position.


    P1060628.jpg

    Take 2 spring clamps and clamp the 2 sides of the liner on the side fuse tubes so that the bottom of the liner will align with the bottom of the side windows. I havenít actually installed my side windows yet so they are not in the way. I just held them in position and put a sharpie mark on the boot cowl where the front, bottom of the window are.


    P1060620.jpg


    P1060621.jpg
    (Here you can see the side window which I have taped in place, and the windshield liner where I have lined it up flush with the bottom of the side window. Also you can see the green, fine line tape I applied on the window for the paint on the bottom and front of the window).

    With the liner clamped on the sides to hold it into the correct position and the front on the front mark 1.5" inside the aft part of the lip.......tape it down in a few places so it's flat and start drilling and cleco'ing using #40 bit.

    Next I like to just take a sharpie and mark the outside of the liner all around....on the tape.


    P1060627.jpg


    Remove the cleco's and set the windshield down with the front of it touching the 2.75" mark. I also like to measure around the windshield and then find the center of it and put a mark on it so I can line it up with the center of the boot cowl. You can see now where the windshield itself will sit in comparison to the line you drew of the front edge of the liner and you can see the holes you drilled.


    P1060633.jpg


    Note that the FRONT of the windshield has a much higher SLANT ANGLE where it goes into the liner at the center, front than it does at the sides. This means that the windshield will sit further away from the front of the liner and drilled holes at the center than they will at the sides where the angle is much less and the windshield itself will go closer to the drilled holes. At the front, the windshield is 1.25" away from the front (the marks we measured and placed.....) and on the side it will be much closer.....more like .75" and almost touching the holes.


    P1060631.jpg

    The last 2 I have done needed almost no trimming on the right side (pilot view) but a fair amount on the left (same as in the video). Just mark the windshield. I don't remove ANY of the protective paper until I'm done with all marking and trimming except the 2 sides where I will need to look through the windshield to see the joint in the A pillar that I want to trim to.


    P1060634.jpg

    Next I check the fit by putting the windshield in place with the center pushed up inside the window liner and a few clecos in the liner. Get your piece of wood and set across the wings at the top and while being sure the windshield is pushed up as far into the liner in the center.......push/pull on the very top edge of the windshield to get each side to where it touches the wood and maybe pushes it UP just a little. Use a couple spring clamps to hold the top in place, then go inside the cockpit with a sharpie and mark the back edge of the flat piece with the little holes in it that the windshield sits on. We will trim this off. Also, put your sharpie tip through the 5 holes so we can drill them out when we remove the windshield to make the cuts.


    P1060635.jpg
    (this is looking up from inside the cockpit at the top of the windshield as it sits on the metal flange with the 5 little holes. Mark the back edge of the windshield where it overhangs the flange and mark the 5 holes onto the windshield.)


    P1060630.jpg


    I also go ahead and use my sharpie and draw a line right down the sides where that joint is in the A pillar as well as drawing around the front of the leading edge wing like Mitch describes in the video. After I remove the windshield, Iíll take a long straightedge and draw a new line abut 1/16Ē away (towards the front) from the joint line I drew and run a piece of tape along the front side of that line. I'll later mark the side holes and drill them after I have all the cuts made and final fitting. Now, everything is marked to trim, so trim the top; both sides; around leading edge wing and bottom of the windshield and check the fit.

    One thing to note is that you need to have a very precise hole for the rivnuts to be installed in. The video doesnít tell you what size drill to use. I think they were using a ďconcrete bitĒ for the final hole???? DON'T! It should be a LETTER G bit. Donít wallow the drill bit around....keep it very consistent. The rivnuts will ďspinĒ when you try to screw in the screw if the holes are too big. The holes should make it so that the rivnut has to be wallowed around, pushed, pressed, etc. to get it into the hole and not just slide in. If they do, they may spin and you canít get the screw in. You first use a step drill and go to 3/16" first and then run the LETTER G bit through it. BE SURE AND DON'T WALLOW IT OUT ON THE BOOT COWL! The top piece of metal where the 5 holes are....are really tough to get the rivnuts through BUT THEY WILL GO! Just support the back of that lip with your hand and push and wiggle and cuss and get it to go through. When you do the boot cowl it will be TOTALLY DIFFERENT! The boot cowl is such thin aluminum.....it will be very easy to overdrill that hole size and much easier to push the rivnuts into the LETTER G holes with minimal pushing, wiggling and cussing. But you don't want to have them just go in easy or you will probably have problems. So it's NORMAL for it to be hard to fit into the hole...but it's suppose to be that way and it will work.

    There are good instructions on using the Marson tool (In previous post I showed the model and where to get it) and it works great for me. Hold the rivnut and screw the mandrel down through the rivnut until its just flush with the bottom of the rivnut and then turn loose of the rivnut and turn the mandrel counterclockwise until the top of the rivnut is up flush with the tool head (while the bottom of the mandrel is still flush with the bottom). So, when you go to stick it into the hole, the mandrel should be flush with the bottom of the rivnut and the tip of the rivnut flush with and up against the tool. Insert it and pull the handle and then unscrew it from the rivnut and that's it.


    P1060637.jpg
    (Shown is the rivnut mounted on the tool and ready to insert. The mandrel is flush with the bottom of the rivnut and the rivnut head is touching the tool. Just a couple small dabs of Super Glue Gel and it's ready to insert.)

    I use Super Glue GEL (not the regular, thin, watery super glue) as it wonít run and takes awhile to set. I just put a little drop on each side of the rivnut under the head before putting it in and just take a paper towel and wipe any excess off after setting it. Iíve never had one spin doing this.

    Also like Mitch showed in the video, you may take a tap and work any that are hard to screw a screw into. Donít try and horse it in because you will spin it loose. I actually a 6-32 tap into each one before installing them to make sure they all work good before doing it for real. It only takes a few seconds to do each one and much easier sitting at your workbench and spinning them with your fingers onto the tap. Out of the 30 I used (5 on top of windshield and I have 25 on liner), I had 1 that just wouldn't work.....so I'm really glad they all work great when I install them.


    P1060636.jpg
    (Running a 6-32 tap through each rivnut before installing)

    After I have the rivnuts all set in place and before installing anything, I mask off the boot cowl and other areas leaving the boot cowl that will be inside the cockpit on the boot cowl open so I can paint it. Take a scotchbrite and scuff the paint and I just use a rattle can of black enamel paint.....non-glossy, matt finish and put a good coat of paint there to keep the glare down.


    P1060638.jpg
    (All masked off and a coat of black, matt enamel paint is sprayed from a rattle can and left to dry overnight)

    continued on next post
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-23-2019 at 11:23 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  7. #117
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WINDSHIELD (continued)

    When drilling the 5 holes at the top and on both sides of the windshield, we want it to be 1.5 times the size of the screw. The screws are 6-32 and 0.135Ē wide so that would make it about 0.20Ē holes which is about a #7 bit.

    I first used a #40 and then opened it up with a #1 uni-bit 2 steps which is 5-32Ē. Then use the #7 to finalize. Then aggressively countersink both sides of the holes.


    P1060640.jpg
    (Countersunk hole on both sides very deep with the microstop)

    Right now the side holes arenít drilled so FIRST stick the 5 wellnuts on each side into the pre-drilled holes in the fuse BEFORE putting the windshield in place. Its easiest to be sure the bundle of wires and fuel line is out of the way so it doesnít try and push the wellnuts back out.


    P1060641.jpg


    P1060642.jpg

    Stick the windshield and liner back back in place and use a #40 bit and drill through the windshield into the center of the wellnut (not going all the way through to the insert that is on the backside).

    Remove the windshield and drill and countersink these holes holes as above.

    On FINISH MANUAL Page 213 the tape listed to use on the front of the windshield is wrong. Itís a typo to start with. It was suppose to read RM4905-002, but that is actually a 1/2Ē tape and you should have some RM4011-001 tape which is 1Ē wide but gray which shouldnít really matter.

    HEADSET HOOKS

    If you want hooks for your headsets itís easier to install them over the top now before you install the skylight. I always get 2 from Cubcrafters. Good suggestion from Pete at CC noting that they should be facing outboard.


    P1060648.jpg

    AILERON CABLES

    BE ESPECIALLY SURE YOU ARE REFERRING TO THE CORRECT FIGURES IN THE DROPBOX FINISH MANUAL FOR THE DIMENSIONS TO BURN THE HOLES FOR THE FORWARD AILERON CABLE LOCATION. The printed manual I have has the EX2 measurement which is different than the EX3 due to the front skins. FN56 on Page 220 in Dropbox shows you IN RED that the front dimension is 5.6Ē from the aft side of the front spar. That is easy to locate using the spar attach fitting. The forward side of the aft half of the fitting is touching the aft side of the front spar, so measure from there.

    Looking at FINISH MANUAL Page 223 and figure FN58, the bolt used is NOT an AN3-5. Its way too short. You have to use an AN3-7. Also you may not be able to use the AN960-10 washers and may need the thinner 10Lís instead.


    P1060644.jpg


    P1060645.jpg

    The black, plastic pulley will ďusuallyĒ NOT fit inside the bracket with the washers on either side without being trimmed but some do. I guess each bracket is a little different. Test it first but sometimes you have to file/sand the sides of the plastic pulleys a little or sometimes completely flush with the side of the pulley. File them down flush and then super glue the 10L washers on the insides of the bracket to make it easier to install. I use a Dremel tool with sanding drum to get them down flush and then use the flat file to get them real flat and smooth before gluing the washers on. The photo here shows the washer on the pulley but glue it onto the bracket or if you glue it to the pulley, only use a small "dot" of glue and then, after you get the bolt through in the bracket, just go in with a screwdriver or razor knife and "pop" the washers away from the pulley so it can rotate against the bracket.


    P1060646.jpg


    P1060647.jpg

    It's a real pain here because WHEN you drop the pulley or the washers slide out....they go down into the wing and you get your telescoping magnet and flashlight and go fishing. Just superglue them to the sides and be done with it.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-31-2019 at 06:17 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  8. #118
    Senior Member Pete D's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Quote Originally Posted by Daveembry View Post
    HEADSET HOOKS

    If you want hooks for your headsets itís easier to install them over the top now before you install the skylight. I always get 2 from Cubcrafters


    Attachment 9394
    It is highly recommended both headset hooks point outboard. Installed on the same left skylight tube further aft and pointed outboard headsets can still be easily hung on them but they are not pointed at your head!
    Pete Dougherty
    R & D Shop Manager
    Cub Crafters Inc

  9. #119
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Good idea. Iíll change mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete D View Post
    It is highly recommended both headset hooks point outboard. Installed on the same left skylight tube further aft and pointed outboard headsets can still be easily hung on them but they are not pointed at your head!
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  10. #120
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    I have been following your posts since the beginning. Very informative. At the beginning of my career in Alaska I did some rebuilding of super cubs, as much flying as I could afford, when I had money for gas. Been an AMT in airline industry for the last 30 years. Now that kids are grown I am looking forward to Cubs again, my first love of aviation. I hope to order my own kit in the not too distant future! I do go back and forth on which one, EX2 or EX3, maybe I should just flip a coin.

    i hope Iím not stepping on any toes, im trying to be helpful, on your pulley installation I would rather see the washers glued to metal bracket so when pulleys move, the plastic will rub on metal washer not washer rubbing on metal bracket. If this seems petty, please remember most A&Pís myself included are anal about this stuff.

    in the recent past, when we had a nut to install in a seemingly impossible location, we would superglue the nut to end of finger to get it started. Ouch! Now we use this stuff, itís great! No more need for superglue, stick metal to metal, pretty much anything can be stuck together temporarily as long as parts are clean and not too cold. Works like a big chap stick. I have no idea who the company buys it from, but this is who makes it.


    D711F653-2B1B-4DDA-B48D-B0D58216D6BD.jpg

    Keep up the most excellent posts on your builds!

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