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Thread: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

  1. #121
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    For sure please jump in any time you have something to add to this thread. I'm just putting in here what I can to try and help others out with what limited knowledge I have and I for sure don't know the best way to do everything and appreciate any advice, tips or suggestions anyone has.

    I had also thought about gluing the washers onto the metal bracket itself but I only put a "dot" of the super glue gel on the washer to just hold it long enough to get it installed. I figured that any abrasive force against it would pop it loose but just going onto the bracket is even better. I actually went back and used a razor knife edge and before torquing down the nuts, I popped the washers loose from the pulley.

    The "sticky stuff" I always use is Fuel Lube or EZ Turn I guess is the new manufacturer. It's almost too sticky! I try regular grease for alot of things and then the Fuel Lube if it really needs to be sticky and Super Glue last. There have been times where I think super gluing it to my finger tip would work too!!! Will have to try that.

    Thanks again and feel free to pitch in any other advice you have.

    Quote Originally Posted by helios View Post
    I have been following your posts since the beginning. Very informative. At the beginning of my career in Alaska I did some rebuilding of super cubs, as much flying as I could afford, when I had money for gas. Been an AMT in airline industry for the last 30 years. Now that kids are grown I am looking forward to Cubs again, my first love of aviation. I hope to order my own kit in the not too distant future! I do go back and forth on which one, EX2 or EX3, maybe I should just flip a coin.

    i hope Iím not stepping on any toes, im trying to be helpful, on your pulley installation I would rather see the washers glued to metal bracket so when pulleys move, the plastic will rub on metal washer not washer rubbing on metal bracket. If this seems petty, please remember most A&Pís myself included are anal about this stuff.

    in the recent past, when we had a nut to install in a seemingly impossible location, we would superglue the nut to end of finger to get it started. Ouch! Now we use this stuff, itís great! No more need for superglue, stick metal to metal, pretty much anything can be stuck together temporarily as long as parts are clean and not too cold. Works like a big chap stick. I have no idea who the company buys it from, but this is who makes it.


    Attachment 9402

    Keep up the most excellent posts on your builds!
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-27-2019 at 07:39 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  2. #122
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    AILERONS

    Check to see if you are short 1 of the pulleys TC9010-001. I got 7 in the finish kit and I guess you need a round number of 8 because I was short one. Call Mitch if you don't have 2 at this point that have to be used for the aileron cables at the fuselage (on the floorboard there by passengers feet).

    The manual I think is pretty clear here. It however does not give any figures or call outs for mounting the outboard end of the aileron at the wing. Here is my little drawing of how it goes:


    P1060649.jpg

    You use the longer pin with a AN960-416L washer under the head; a 416 & 416L between the wing fitting and the aileron fitting and a 416L on the end right before the 2 AN380-2-2 cotter pins. The pin goes in from the outboard side of the wing fitting.

    Another scary part.....punching the holes through the fuse. I got a long piece of wire at Lowes and sharpened the end. Install the above pulleys temporarily (just stick the bolt through the pulley in the bracket inside the cockpit) so you can punch these holes. Get under the plane where the rear stick comes through the bottom and with a flashlight.....stick one eyeball way up as far as you can get it and look to the side and find the pulley.

    Take your sharpened wire and put it on the BOTTOM of the pulley with the other end up by the end of the rear stick mast and punch the hole. It should come out just above the strut mounts at the fuse in the patch we put there.


    P1060624.jpg


    P1060625.jpg


    P1060650.jpg


    When you go to install the cables to the aileron, the part numbers are wrong in the figures. Here is the figure and I have scratched in the correct part numbers. The barrel connectors and the turnbuckle fork end numbers have changed. I was also short 2 of the AN23-10 screws......so....Call Mitch if you don't have 4 left in your totes.


    P1060653.jpg

    Take a look at the fork ends and like the manual says, find the side that has the grooved slot that the safety wire will go up into to lock it in placed and be sure it's pointing away from the wing when you put it on the fork.


    P1060651.jpg
    (I put blue sharpie on the cut line in this fork end. It goes away from the wing.)

    Also note that the fork end will only screw correctly into 1 end of the barrel connectors. If it doesn't screw in one way, flip the connector over and screw it in the other end.


    P1060652.jpg

    Hand tighten all 4 cable ends together so there is about the same amount of threads exposed on each one before tensioning to the 40 lbs cable tension. I just measure along the cable going down the spar.

    Page 262 is wrong on how to adjust the aileron angles. On the EX3 you adjust the maximum travel with the screws/nuts under the belly.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-31-2019 at 02:49 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  3. #123
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    FLAPS

    Flaps are pretty straight forward but there are a couple confusing areas and a wrong photo and part numbers.

    Look at FINISH MANUAL, Page 234, FN62 and you will see the correct parts callout and manner to install the parts onto the flap itself. Now look at Page 231 and Photo 488 and you will see they are completely different. The photo shows the bolt head on the outside of the flap yet the figure shows the castle nut on the outside. Of course, according to the rules......we will follow the Figure over the photo.

    You will see later when installing the flap that clearance of this screw end with the nut/cotter pin in it, next to the top of the D window is an issue to watch. So I would prefer myself to have the head on the outside for more clearance but then, how do you install a castle nut and cotter pin inside the flap?? Not. I think they use to put a locknut on the inside but since then have changed to put the castle nut and it has to go on the outside of the flap.


    P1060662.jpg
    (See how the end of the screw will actually touch and scratch your D window at the top if not careful and if you don't have the clearance?)

    OK, if you followed this thread and my post when we installed the flap cones in the FUSE MANUAL, we installed a longer AN4-14 bolt through the flap cone and not the 4-13 shown on FN61 on Page 232. You will also note the "note" on this figure saying you can change this by 3 lengths if needed. This figure is a bit confusing so let me cover it more.

    The reason I making it longer is so it will stick out further on the flap side and let us move the flap (and that screw end) out away from the D window.

    Looking at that figure, it's a bit wrong.....maybe? ...... or just hard to see so let me explain. Here is a photo of my notes:


    P1060655.jpg


    P1060656.jpg


    P1060654.jpg

    OK, so on the INSIDE of the flap cone we installed the AN4-14; a 416L washer and the bearing with grease on the bearing and bolt (the RM3151-001 is the grease). Be sure the bearing is flush into the cone so that it is right against the outside of the flap cone. You can see it there and also you can see the bolt head should be down into the flap cone on the inside. I like to take some balled up tape or something and wedge it inside against the head to keep the bolt from pushing back into the cone as I (single handedly) install the flap.


    P1060660.jpg
    (Note how the bolt head in the center of the flap cone is back into the cone? If it isn't, and it won't push back inside, then the bearing has come out of the flap cone and must be re-seated)


    P1060659.jpg
    (See the ball of masking tape I wedged up against the bolt head?)


    If you let the bolt slip back inside, most likely the bearing will push back with it away from the flap cone and it's a pain to get it back in. You will probably have to remove the bolt and washer and bearing from the inside and try to re-seat the bearing completely flush inside before starting over.


    So now going to the OUTSIDE of the flap cone, we first install the bushing SC15000-065 and then the 2 washers 416 and a 416L half washer as shown.......EXCEPT....YOU HAVE TO PUT MORE WASHERS HERE TO GET THE FLAP OUT AWAY FROM THE WINDOW PROBABLY. I actually put 3 full size 416 washers here onto the AN4-14 bolt. If you need more distance, you can change that bolt length and go with a longer AN4-15 and add more washers here.

    It looks strange but these washers on the outside of the bushing lets the bolt move around in the outside flap cone as needed, so it's correct.


    3C6C9AEB-94E4-4D31-8C6F-9CD767171C27.jpeg
    (In this photo you can see the parts. The bolt, washer and bearing went on the inside of the flap cone and the bushing and 2 washers go on the outside BUT....NOTE THAT I HAD TO USE 3 FULL SIZE 416 WASHERS TO MAKE IT WORK INSTEAD OF THE 2 SHOWN HERE. 416 & 416L half washer)


    P1060658.jpg
    (This photo shows the outside flap cone with the AN4-14 bolts sticking out, the bushing installed next to the flap which is on the inside, and the 2 washers called for. However, I instead used 3 of the 416 washers here before putting the flap on.)

    Be sure and protect your D windows both at the top and also note that until you get the flap rod connected to your flap handle, the flap will drop down and will hit the lower part of your D window so be sure and be careful. I put a few layers of tape on the window and then cut a couple pieces of the foam packing material and after I install the flap, I can rest it down on this foam while I get the flap rod installed.


    P1060661.jpg
    (Note the foam and tape holding the flap away from the D window at the bottom until the flap rod is installed)

    The manual does not give you any callout info or figures for the hardware that goes on the outboard end of the flap but it will be an AN4-14 probably with an AN310-4 castle nut and AN380-2-3 cotter pin. Look at the shoulder on your bolt with the flap correctly installed and be sure it's going through both fitting correctly. You can go longer or shorter as needed to get the right should and thread length.


    P1060663.jpg

    I start the greased bolt into the flap/aileron hangar from outboard to inboard and then take the bolt coming out of the flap cone and point it aft. With the flap resting on my head (yeah....really) I guide the inboard end of the flap very gently onto the flap cone bolt being sure to not jamb it and push the bolt back into the cockpit area. As soon as I get it out enough to grab the end of the bolt, I do grab it and pull to keep it out. Then you can let go of that end and take the outboard end of the flap and bring it up to the hangar and push that bolt through.


    P1060657.jpg

    Then go back to the inboard end and gently raise the flap up and with the flap pushed over towards the fuse, be sure that screw end coming out of the flap with the cotter pin over the top of it......doesn't rub up against your D window at the top. If it does, you will need more washers down there on the outside of the flap cone bearing.

    If it's good, install the 416L washer, castle nut and cotter pin onto that flap cone bolt. You will see another discrepancy between the Figure and the written manual. The figure says to torque the bolt and then go 1 more notch to install the cotter pin and the written part says finger tight, so we will torque it according to the figure. (probably about the same tightness either way)

    On the outboard end, then go down and slide in spacer washers between the hangar and the outboard flap as needed and finish up.


    P1060662.jpg


    I then install the flap rods as soon as I can because i hate seeing that flap up against the D window. Now you can see why we installed all the flap handle fittings when we did the fuse instead of doing it now like the manual shows!!! Instead of trying to install the bearings, bolts, nuts and cotter pins up inside that wing root......all we have to do is screw in the flap rod.

    Insert it up into the wing root being sure it won't touch anything else and I get the front of it started into the flap handle first....just start it a couple threads until attaching the rear one at the flap. You can then hold the rod and maneuver the flap bearing around and into the aft end of the flap rod and get it started. Then just twist the rod and you will see the flap raise up. I take a spring clamp on the ends of the ailerons (with masking tape down first to protect the paint) and clamp them flush with the wing tip instead of just masking tape. Rotate the flap rod until the flap is level with the aileron with the flap handle in the up position.

    After the flap rod is in, I will tie down any loose wiring in the wing root and then install the skylight and turtle deck last. That way itís easier to get to any wires from the top if needed.

    The manual is good for all else I think.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-30-2019 at 05:27 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  4. #124
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    SKYLIGHT & TURTLE DECK

    Check to see if you have all the hardware needed to mount the com/gps antenna on the turtle deck. The last kits I got did not have this hardware and you will want to install it before mounting it. Call Mitch.

    I donít install the skylight or turtle deck until I finish installing the flaps and ailerons . I like having the wing root top areas open until those are installed and wiring, etc. all tied down finally.

    See the last page of the Dropbox Executive Glass Manual or in the FINISH MANUAL Page 250 and FN68 for a figure THAT IS NOT RIGHT. Note that the figure shows the order they are installed but the part numbers here are all different from the figure but this is what Mitch sent me and said to use. Look in your G3X Tote to see if you have some or all of these. The Executive Glass Comant antenna used now will not get a split washer on top, under the screw head as shown.

    Different antennas use different hardware. I have the combo com, gps and WAAS antenna VP6250-003 Comant CI2580-200, so this is the hardware that works for it. The COM/GPS antenna will require longer screws.

    Here is what you need:

    4 - AN526C832R12 Screws
    1 - SC26008-001 Gasket, Antenna
    1 - SC71344-001 Backing Plate, ComDat Antenna
    4 - MS35338-137/#8 Helical Split Lock Washer
    4 - AN340-C8/Plain Hex Nut 8-32 SS

    I think the manual is pretty easy to follow on these items. There is one photo/description talking about putting the tape on the fuselage that I don't agree with. It correctly describes putting the tape between the wing rivnuts and along the outside fuse tubes on the baggage area but Page 244, Photo 512 says to put some tape along the diagonal tubes where the turtle deck will go over the baggage area. I don't see why since these tubes are too low to come in contact with the turtle deck. I don't put tape here.

    Also note they leave out a big part on both the skylight and turtle deck, and that is that you obviously have to first match drill the front of the skylight before installing.

    Same thing on turtle deck. It has to be match drilled before starting the install.

    On page 251 the written manual says to use the R9 screws into the turtle deck to skylight joint but if you look at the figure FN67 the callout is for R10 (longer) screws so I will default to the figure and use the longer R10 screws.

    I also change up the order of doing thing in the manual a little bit to make it easier to install the skylight screws/spacers in the middle. So here is how I do it....

    First install the windshield and set the skylight in place and match drill the front holes where it will mount over the windshield. Mitch says they mount it either way there....sometimes putting windshield overlapping the top of the skylight or vice versa. If you put the skylight on top of the windshield, you will have a big gap to silicone in the front of the trim strip or it will be on the backside if you put the windshield on top. I think this looks nice and more aerodynamic?

    The front holes are drilled out to .250" with the step drill and countersunk. Loosely install the trim skylight and top windshield screws through the trim strip.

    Next match drill the back of the skylight to the rear fuse holes that are already in the tapped out for the screws. I just use a #40 drill to match drill the holes and then us the unibit/stepdrill to go to the .250" hole and countersink the 4 holes that go into the fuse crossbar. The 2 holes going into the rivnuts on the sides will go to .180" size only and countersunk.


    P1060677.jpg

    Now I skip ahead in the manual and go to Page 254 FINISH MANUAL and drill the holes for the skylights in the middle where the spacers will go. The reason I do this before mounting the skylight/turtle deck is because its easier to locate and drill the holes in the skylight now if we can push up on the skylight when following the manual with installing the screws into the spacers and fuse to locate the drill holes. This just gives you more room to work and no sense not doing it the easy way!

    First cut 5/16" off the long bolts. I use my dremel. I then run them onto any 10-32 nut just to be sure they aren't burred and will start easily. Then take the longer spacers and longer screws and using 1 hand, you can push up the back of the skylight and go ahead and slide the screw through the spacer and screw it into the pre-tapped holes in the top crossbar. Keep your hand holding up the skylight while screwing all 4 in so you don't scratch it.


    P1060676.jpg


    P1060674.jpg

    After all 4 are screwed down then gently set the skylight down onto them and just start a couple of screws into the back of the skylight where it will mount with the turtle deck onto the fuse, just to hold it in place just right. Then you can take a #40 bit and I just drill about half way down into the skylight for now, marking all 4 holes right over the center of the screw heads.


    P1060678.jpg
    (Look directly down through the skylight and drill a mark right on the center of the head of the screw under it.)


    P1060679.jpg

    Then remove the screws in the back of the skylight; push up on the skylight again and remove the screws with spacers from the cross tubes. Then go drill the holes the rest of the way with the #40 bit and then use the unibit/stepdrill bit again and widen to .250" and countersink just like the rest. We are done with that for now. It takes 2 people to install the screws with the big washers on either side of the skylight, but you can do it at any time.......so I just set this aside until my "buddy" (anyone!) shows up. I'll use them to help with these screws and also I will need some help installing the left side, turtle deck to fuse hook screw when we drill it last.

    Now we can match drill the forward end of the turtle deck where it overlaps the skylight. First I take some silicone or glue or grease and take the 4 plastic wedges that go under the skylight 4 holes that go into the fuse crossbar.....and set them in place just under the 4 holes. You can just lift up the back of the skylight to get them in place.

    Be sure and install the RM1072-001 tape onto the back of the turtle deck where the flaps will hit/slide/move on. See FN6, Page 247.

    Use your hole finder tool.....


    P1060669.jpg


    P1060670.jpg


    and match drill the holes from the 6 holes across the aft end of the skylight and the other 3 holes on each side of the turtle deck that are the rivnuts in the wing root. I use masking tape and then clecos to hold it in place as I do this to be sure it doesn't move. You can use some screws too.


    P1060672.jpg
    (Put the hole finder dimple into the hole on the skylight).


    P1060673.jpg
    (Then I just used a #30 bit to drill down onto the hole finder tool)

    Widen the 4 holes across the forward end of the turtle deck that goes into the fuse to .250" and all the rest of the holes (2 on the forward end outside edges and 6 outside edge ones that go into the rivnuts) to .180" and deburr.

    Run a nice bead of silicone along the top of the skylight where the turtle deck will sit and then start the 4 screws into the forward, center of the turtle deck, down through the skylight and the wedges. Don't tighten until you install all the other, smaller screws. Then go back and tighten all the skylight and windshield screws ....front and back......after you have pulled all the red tape off the taped areas. The 8 smaller screws used on the holes that go into the rivnuts are the AN526C632R8 with plastic washers. These aren't shown anywhere in the manual.


    P1060671.jpg

    The manual has quite a few errors in the turtle deck area. Page 253/254, you won't do like they say for the 2 screws in the back of the turtle deck where it goes through the cargo hook. Just drill a #30 hole and then use an AN526C632R6 screw with a plastic washer under the head and an AN365632A nut. They do not use the countersink, washer etc as shown.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 02-01-2019 at 09:00 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  5. #125
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    GETTING READY FOR THE INSPECTOR

    OK, we are now in the red zone and getting close to being ready to get our FSDO or DAR to come and give us an inspection and Special Airworthiness Inspection.

    If using the local FSDO office inspector, it doesn't cost you anything (other than the taxes we pay) but with the DAR, you will have to pay them.

    Contact the FAA office and see which way you want to go and then contact the inspector and just ask him how he wants to handle it. In my area, my local FSDO Inspector asks that I email him all the paperwork in advance. He reviews it and responds with any questions and/or corrections he wants me to make or advises of anything missing. Then he will set up an appointment to come out and do the inspection.

    Each one will be different. There are form they require and some items they may or may not ask for such as a Builders Log and/or photos (with you in them preferably). My guy here told me the first time that he was not there to do an inspection of the quality of workmanship, etc of the build but to inspect that all the required paperwork, decals, placards, etc were installed properly. He needs to be satisfied that YOU were the actual builder and this is where the Builder Log (like the Excel one I use and included in one of the earlier posts) is good to have as well as photos. I did not actually email him photos but told him I would have them available (via computer disk) to him at the inspection time. He never looked at any of them. He did look over my first Builders Log however.

    They can usually ask a few questions and talk with you a few minutes about the plane and know if you built it or not.

    My inspector here knows me now and knows I'm the builder, so he no longer asks for the Builders Log or anything other than the required forms ........which are:

    - FAA FORM 8130-6 Application for Airworthiness Certificate.
    - FAA FORM 8130-12, Eligibility Statement Amateur-Build Aircraft. This form must be notarized.
    - Program Letter (in the Dropbox files, CERTIFICATION DATA)
    - Weight & Balance Documents. Certifcation Data files
    - 3-View Drawing (in the Dropbox Files CERTIFICATION DATA. There is a folder with the manual and also individual pdf fallible files)
    - Completed Conditional Inspection
    - FAA FORM 8610-2, Application for Airmans (Repairmans) Certificate. Go ahead and apply for this at the same time so you can do the annual Condition Inspections yourself.

    Before the inspection, you will also need:
    - FAA FORM 8050-3, Aircraft Registration Certificate. This is the Registration Certificate which I requested a few weeks ago and have received in the mail. You have to have this in the aircraft. If you have applied but not yet received it back, I think they will let you go ahead and get the AWC now.
    - N number installed per their requirement
    - EXPERIMENTAL placard installed
    - DATA PLATE installed (call Mitch to get yours)
    - PASSENGER WARNING placard.
    - ELT installed
    - Have all aircraft maintenance records (logbooks for airframe, engine and propeller)
    - All cockpit instruments labeled for operation.
    - Recommended but not required...... FUEL FLOW TESTS
    - Airplane must be ready to fly.
    - Make the required logbook entry..... "I certify this aircraft has been inspected in accordance with the scope and detail of Appendix D to Part 43 and has been found to be in a condition for safe operation."

    This is it. I recommend using the EAA certification kit we gave the link to previously as they have sample of all these forms and checklists.

    I am again going to attach the forms I submitted to my FSDO man a few days ago so you can see how I actually filled them out. Again, I register in a corporation so you can see where the builder/manufacturer names are required and listed as the corporation name. The repairman's certificate is however in my name so I am personally named as the "builder".

    FAA FSDO offices were closed during the recent government shutdown but I called my FSDO last week anyway to schedule with him. I went ahead and sent in all the forms except the weight and balance (since I still wasn't quite finished and haven't weighed it yet) so I could get "in line" ....and on his schedule. I'll have the weight and balance ready along with all the original documents that I emailed him.....available when he does the inspection. I will however go ahead and attach the Weight & Balance Documents I had for my last EX3 so you can see how it was done.

    The Weight & Balance one is on Word so you can edit it. It explains how to do each step but also notice that the built in tables have Excel spreadsheets built into them with the programs to automatically calculate everything. You just need to fill in your specific weights and arms for your plane after you weight it and just edit those numbers only in the first 2 tables showing the most aft and most forward situations. These calculations FAA uses and want these STANDARD weight included....so just edit your total weight; arm and moment.

    In the last table, use your correct number for pilot weight so they will be accurate. This table should be how it will be when you do the first flight test. Forward is the most safe to start with.

    To edit the Excel tables, just double click inside the table and then edit. When you are finished just click outside the table anywhere.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 02-10-2019 at 10:38 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  6. #126
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Well I guess SOMEONE is following this thread. Today just surpassed 20,000 views!

    Iím pretty much finished with the build now and would love to entertain any problems, questions, clarifications etc. anyone might have from this point forward. Iíve tried to follow the manual and only comment on areas I thought needed clarification or correction and may have missed areas that others may not understand. Iíve had lots of private emails and phone calls and Iíve tried to touch on those areas that were questioned but Iím sure there are more.

    My 4th kit just shipped to me last week, so Iíll be following this thread again myself as a reference.

    What else would you like to see or have more explanation about? Please post it here and letís discuss it.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 02-02-2019 at 08:18 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  7. #127
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    FUEL TANK COVERS

    Someone ask me about these so I'll go over them a bit.

    You don't need to drill the holes or fit them until about the last thing you do......after paint.

    First, locate the nut plate holes where the screws will go. Remember there were 7 in the nose and flap false spar area and 5 on either side of the fuel tank bays. The ones on the sides are about 5- 1/8" apart and the front and rear ones are about 4-1/8" apart.....roughly.


    P1060688.jpg
    (Note that this is the front, inboard edge and this rivnut is the one in the wing root in line with the top of the windshield/forward end of the skylight. Be sure you are covering that rivet so the screw can pass down through it. This screw will eventually go through the front wing root cover; through this fuel tank cover and then the skylight and into the rivnut....so donít put a screw in now. I actually did put a screw from the skylight into this rivnut before I put the silicone around the skylight edge.......just to hold the front of the skylight now tight while I silicone.)

    I just get the light right and look down and you can usually see the 2 rivets for the nutplates and you know the hole is between the 2. Just locate one on a side and then take you sharp awl and poke a hole. Then measure to the next general area and look close and you will see the next rivets/nutplates.......poke a hole. You will see the exact measurement between the 2, so just measure on down to the others and poke holes.

    Then take the soldering iron and burn all the holes out.


    P1060690.jpg


    P1060691.jpg

    Remove the masking tape, install the rubber grommets and fuel caps onto the tank. Take a tank cover and put in place and generally just center the hole opening around the filler cap. The hole covers have already been installed at the factory, so you don't have to follow the manual with installing those.

    Get some masking tape and move the covers around with that filler cap generally centered in the cover. Mask it down and then go around with your small HOLE FINDER and just find a hole on each corner and be sure the edge distance is good on the cover. Put several piece of masking tape down to hold it in place once you are sure all the edge distances are good on all 4 sides and start drilling with a #30 or #40 bit into your HOLE FINDER. Cleco as you go.

    You can just leave your hole finder under the cover and slide it on down to the next hole. You don't even have to look......just slide it down about the right distance and go fishing.....you will know when it pops down in the hole.


    P1060692.jpg

    After you are done, try and blow away all the drilling chips or keep them from falling down into the tank bays.

    Use a #15 bit or a #1 unibit and go down to the 3rd step which is about .180 in all the holes and deburr. Put the covers aside.

    Be sure the sides of your skylight are down into the 2 sided tape we put down and then follow the directions for applying the silicone on all 4 sides of the skylight and the skylight/turtle deck joint.....and the sides of the turtle deck where it overlaps the wing.

    Let this set up a day or so before installing the fuel tank covers since they will go over the top of those skylight edges.

    The screws/hardware is in the COVER MANUAL. The screw are the AN526C632R8 and they don't call for it but you should also use the small, plastic washers that we have been using elsewhere.

    So, there are 24 screws into each tank = 48 total and you have to SCREW those plastic washers onto the screws right.....since they are so small they won't just slide.....over the screw. Here is a way to quickly install those washers on the screws.

    Take a block of wood and drill a #5 or so bit into it an inch or so.


    P1060684.jpg


    Take the washer and just get it started on the screw and put it over the hole. Take a screwdriver and give it a twisting push......down and the washer will push up on the screw.


    P1060685.jpg


    FLAP GAP SEALS

    Just a note that the manual has things in reverse order here. Don't install the flap gap seals until you have done the 2nd thing the manual says to do ....... which is to first place the flap wing root piece in place. If not, you will follow the manual.....set the flap gap seal all in place and 1/16" gap, etc. and the read the next page where you have to first place this piece......so you take it all apart and start over! ugh......
    Last edited by Daveembry; 02-04-2019 at 05:44 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  8. #128
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    Broken Arrow, OK
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    505

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    SNAP VENTS

    How about a couple extra snap-vents in the side window for us southern folks where it's HOT? I've done this on all my planes and it makes it really nice but I was sure scared of cutting those holes after all the war stories I heard. After some research here is what I found that has worked great so far.


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    1. The instructions that come with the snap-vents say to use a 3-1/4", metal cutting hole saw with 6 teeth or more per inch. Makes sure it has a mandrel as well to hold it steady while cutting.


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    2. I take the window inside the house to stay warm and then use a heat gun a bit to warm up the plastic so it's not so brittle. They recommend 70 degrees or more.


    P1060700.jpg


    Obviously you want to protect the plastic so I put it on a moving blanket on my ENGINE CRATE work table and then take a soft piece of wood and put under the area you are cutting and another one over towards the center of the window to keep it more level.

    3. Drill a starter hole through the center of the spot you want to cut. It's very important that you hold the window down very hard and tight against the wood to keep it from jumping around as this will cause it to crack I guess.


    P1060704.jpg


    4. Next start the hole saw into the hole by first going slowly through with the larger, center mandrel bit in the center of the hole saw and then cut about half way through using a slow speed. They say 300-400 rpm but I go really slow.....just fast enough to be sure the teeth aren't biting in and "jumping around" but not too fast that if a tooth catches it won't jerk around too much on the window and possibly crack it. The mandrel is good because it goes down into the block of wood and holds the saw steady but still use one hand and hold down window flat against the block as you cut.


    P1060705.jpg


    I usually find one side or the other doesn't cut as much as the other so I usually flip it back over again (after cutting on both sides) and catch the last part that needs to cut all the way through.


    P1060706.jpg


    5. Probably the most important to keep your hole from having cracks later is to cut down the edges like we do when we countersink all the holes we drill in plastic. I really like using my serrated edge pocket knives for this. The serrations are great because the edge just goes into a groove and it holds it there as you go around the edge.


    P1060708.jpg


    So I go around both sides of the hole and scrape the edge down and I smooth the center of the cut as well to be sure it's smooth. My understanding is that very minor, microscopic cracks form in plastic when you drill/cut into it and by smoothing the edges of the cut, you cut out those minor cracks without creating more. Any minor cracks you can't even see will cause a big crack to start and keep moving until you stop it by drilling a very small hole out in front of the crack.

    These 2 extra vents (in addition to the 2 up in the skylight) will be really nice in the hot summer cruising along at 130 mph in the EX3.


    P1060709.jpg
    Last edited by Daveembry; 02-06-2019 at 03:58 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  9. #129
    Senior Member ceslaw's Avatar
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    Carterville, IL
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    384

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Will there be a clearance issue when the window is latched in the open position? I have not measured the space but recall it ainít a whole lot.

  10. #130
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    Broken Arrow, OK
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Quote Originally Posted by ceslaw View Post
    Will there be a clearance issue when the window is latched in the open position? I have not measured the space but recall it ainít a whole lot.
    Chuck, yes there is room. In the closed positions the snap vents are a very neglible height on the outside and if you have them open and forget to close them before opening the window, they just pop closed no problem. Gets lots of great airflow on those hot days.


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    P1060716.jpg


    P1060718.jpg
    Last edited by Daveembry; 02-09-2019 at 01:36 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

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