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Thread: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

  1. #101
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Chuck, I just sprayed it on a qtip first and used that to apply it to the small area where it came through the fabric and then used some ďblending solventĒ mixed in about 25% to first area and then went 50% and blended out further.....to blend it in after filling the fixed area with several full strength coats of paint. Then a little mild compounding outside the last blend coat area.

    3F6D8EC7-065D-4E32-BF6E-228B1FA7D1F1.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by ceslaw View Post
    Well, Dave, you just made my day.

    I had the exact same issue with a leak from the fuel selector causing a bit of discoloration in the paint, and it would not hold the touch up paint. Never occurred to me to use the Bull Dog on it. I will do so, and fix that small but annoying issue. Good tip.

    I believe I posted on that leaky valve issue, long ago. Turned out the O rings were fractionally too small, compared to the replacements. I always suspected there would be a rash of builders with leaky valves.

    Chuck
    Dave Embry
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    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  2. #102
    Senior Member Dan L's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    I didnít know about Bulldog when I sprayed my D windows in 2011. I scuffed them and sprayed but they peeled after a few years. The only solution was new windows. I replaced them in 2015 and used the Bulldog. No hint of peeling so far.

    I like Ike the look of the D windows and round wing tips.
    Flying Carbon Cub EX #11 since 2011

  3. #103
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Painting Vortex Generators

    How do you paint vortex generators? Take some masking tape and double it over and stick one side to the top of your saw horse and stick the generators on the tape.

    9C31B955-DCBB-4B3A-848A-76698D43A547.jpg


    AC0F06F0-D634-4DBA-97C7-EA9FC40D4E68.jpg

    To paint other small parts I take some hog wire panels and lay them between 2 sawhorses in the paint booth and put the parts flat on it. The paint will spray through the panels and not blow them around, unlike hanging them from wires does.

    MAGNETOMETER MOUNTING

    Note that you should not install the magnetometer in the wing until you have the wing installed or right before. I installed mine at the hangar just before hanging the wing.

    Refer to the Executive Glass Manual Page 37.

    First rivet the ring SP71323-002 to the mounting bracket we assembled earlier in the wing build. Set the ring so the notch beside the arrow, is aligned with the small hole drilled in the mounting bracket where it will be facing the spar. Drill 3 holes as shown with a #21 bit and install 3 of the MS20426A5-6 rivets. There are actually 6 predrilled and countersunk holes and not the 3 shown on the figure. If you put the 3 rivets as shown, you can reach those 3 with your hand squeezer.


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    D8AF5B92-B9FF-4C27-96B9-AE5E5139BBF9.jpg


    Next we we need to match drill down through the ring in 3 places where the screw will go. This is so the screws can go on through the ring enough to tighten up.


    75591130-32B1-4C36-964E-727D620736E2.jpg

    Also drill 2 holes as shown in detail B-B for the tie wraps to go through to secure the connectors.

    Mount magnetometer to the ring using the screws MS35214-23. Remember NOT TO USE A MAGNETIC SCREWDRIVER ANYWHERE AROUND THE MAGNETOMETER.



    361472D1-F5D5-4A7A-A4A3-BEE6DEF0738B.jpg


    751B06DD-4649-4929-AD2C-DCA225B26B23.jpg

    Lastly, mount the bracket to the spar using the MS35649-265B nuts on MS35214-27 screws. Connect the connector in the magnetometer to the one you ran down the wing and then fasten each side to the bracket with tie wraps through the 2 holes you drilled in the front.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-12-2019 at 05:39 AM.
    Dave Embry
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    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  4. #104
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    BRAKES & WHEELS

    Previously I attached the files for the wheels and calipers. You first install the torque plates (be sure you have the ones for the 6 hole for the EX3) to the landing gear. The plates go FORWARD of the gear and you will notice they have a raised or sunken area around the hole. That sunken part goes to the OUTSIDE of the wheel. Its hard to see and explain but in these photos you can see that area......but if you can image laying that torque plate down and it were a swimming pool where the sunken area is.....the part that would hold the water would be on the INBOARD side and the raised side or bottom of the pool would be facing OUTBOARD.


    IMG_0593.jpg
    (The front of the airplane is to the right in this photo)

    You notice here that I have simply swapped the fitting out to make the line coming in now be on the top instead of the bottom. This will protect it more in case of hitting big rocks, etc.


    IMG_0594.jpg
    (Again, the front of the airplane is to the right....we are looking at the side of the pool that would hold water if level)

    Next you can put the tire on the axle and use the axle nut to tighten it so it will spin around a turn and 1/2 or so when still jacked up. Then tighten to the next place where you can put the big cotter pin in.

    Take the calipers apart and mount the big side over the 2 big pins it slides on. Next take the other side of the brake disc that mounts to this and I make a sharpie mark on the top of the pieces where each hole is and slide it in place from the top and hold it there until you can get one of the 4 bolts started. It helps to hold the caliper as far to the inside as you can to give you more room. Torque to 90 in lbs only and safety wire.



    AEF7F747-6ECD-4670-893C-F427A29B39D6.jpg

    Route the lines along the tabs in the gear and connect using the 567 Thread sealer.


    IMG_0596.jpg

    Use a rubber mallet to bend the tabs over as shown in the manual. A block of wood and metal hammer works too. The tabs are pretty soft and bend easily.


    IMG_0597.jpg

    Finally, follow the FINISH MANUAL at the end of the section on the LANDING GEAR for filling the lines with the brake fluid. The manualís way of doing it works great and Iíve never had air in the lines using this method and by reversing the fitting like I do with the lines at the top, there is no way for air to get it and if it does, it will go up to the master cylinders and come out as you fill.


    IMG_0598.jpg

    WING PREP

    Before the wings are installed there are several things we need to do. The manual is pretty good on this so I will only touch on a few things that maybe need clarifying.

    NOTE THAT THE CURRENT KIT WAS MISSING SOME OF THE PARTS NEEDED. MISSING FOR THE FUEL LINES WERE THE 8 SMALL CLAMPS HDW100-200; 4 ELBOW FITTINGS AN915-2D ; 4 NIPPLE FITTING FOR THE SIGHT GAUGES AN840-4D.
    Note that as Iíve stated before several times, substitute the Loctite 567 Thread Sealer for the Fuel Lube as stated in the manual. Mitch says they had problems with fuel lube and are using this now exclusively.

    The elbow fittings will face the fuel lines and the manual is referring to only 1 side in the direction of them so think about where the fuel lines are coming in to the wings from. ....... the rear one from the rear so they should face towards the rear and down and the front ones face towards the front and downward. After we install the wings, we will connect the lines so donít get them too far down so that the fuel line and nut on the fitting will be below the level of the bottom of the wing.


    P1060568.jpg


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    We will put the black material pieces in the nose and tail sections per the manual using the Weatherstrip Adhesive. Here it is on Amazon. We will need this later also installing the front wing pieces. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    STALL WARNING

    Just note where the wires hook up as its a little unclear because of the locations of the terminals on the stall warning switch. The WIRING CHART of mine explains how to connect it. MB05B20O will plug into the TOP male spade on the stall warning switch and the MB05C20OO plugs into the MIDDLE male spade connector on the switch.

    The switch will slide upward and downward a bit due to the slot the screws go through. Moving the switch upward on the wing will increase the airspeed that it will sound and lowering it will lower the airspeed so when you fly it if itís going off way too soon, just raise it upwards. With the AOA Pitot on the Executive Glass and G3X, I rely on the audio of that and not the stall warning horn. Seems the circuit breaker on it is always OUT.

    VORTEX GENERATORS

    I showed on the last post how to paint them. After painting I take a razor blade and scrape the bottom and outside edges of each one to clear away the paint as well as the greenish substance they are coated with from the factory. Then clean with denatured alcohol.

    The manual is good on the layout using the vinyl pattern they ship with them. When you install each one, put a small dab of the glue on the back and I use a Popsicle stick to spread it out evenly and thinly and then give it a little spray with the activator and press into place. Use a Qtip to clean the excess that squishes out. Be sure to get the generator exactly INSIDE the space allocated in the vinyl and clean all that excess off because when you peel the vinyl back away from the wing, any excess left on the edges will stick to the vinyl and the vinyl will tear off and stick to the wing and itís a real pain to remove. I put 4 on and then go back and double check all the rest of them on the wing that I already set to be sure they havenít moved. Its takes several minutes for the glue to set so they can slide downward a little until they set......so check them and keep them in the open areas.

    The activator is a brownish color so go back and use a rag with the denatured alcohol to clean the glue and activator from around them after you finish.

    RIVNUTS IN TURTLE DECK AREA

    The manual is good on this. Note you will need that LETTER G drill bit. When you drill out using this bit, be careful and donít oversize the hole or the rivnut will come out. Also, I get some Superglue Gel and just before installing the rivnut, I put a drop or 2 of the gel under the head of it. After you install it, it will give it a bit more hold and prevent it from spinning out when you put the screw in. I first started doing this when installing the windshield and had a couple of the spin out when installing the screws. Just clean the excess glue off when it squishes out.

    i have the Marson No.39200. It comes with 3 mandrel sizes but you will need to order a separate one in the 6-32 size.


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    I think the cheapest place I found was Zoro at $53. Amazon cheapest is about $89 https://www.zoro.com/marson-rivet-nu...00/i/G1742212/ and then get the 6-32 mandrel https://www.zoro.com/marson-mandrel-...54/i/G2214073/ which is $6.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-08-2019 at 05:36 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  5. #105
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    ELEVATOR & RUDDER TRIM TABS

    You can put them on the elevators. First put a layer of RM1072-001tape between the trim tab and the fabric on the elevator at the trailer edge elevator tube. They go on with the CR3213-4-2 rivets (which I only had 1 left in the kit so had to call Mitch to get 7 more). After installing them put a bead of silicone along the leading edge of the trim tab where it meets the fabric.


    P1060570.jpg


    The rudder trim tab goes on with 3 of the AN530-4R4 screws.
    I had to tap out the holes to get the screws to go in.P1060569.jpg


    WING & RUDDER LIGHTS

    I like to install the landing and navigation lights first per the LIGHTING MANUAL. The latest wing tip bow I got already had a nut plate installed for the 10-32 screw that goes into it BUT IT WAS THE WRONG SIZE. It is suppose to be an L3 plate that takes a 10-32 screw that came with the light and/or is an AN507C1032R28 called for so it wonít fit. Check yours and if itís the same youíll have to remove their riveted nutplate and replace it with one Mitch will send one. It was a nice thought though!!!!


    P1060562.jpg
    (Rudder Light)

    On the rudder I install the light now but not the 4 pin housing connector onto the wires coming up of the rudder that connects to the harness inside the harness in the back of the fuse, until after installing the rudder and burning the fuse hole and pushing this wire group though the hole and into the fuse.

    The kit was MISSING the connector VP6009-005 (it had a photo of it on the Lighting Tote but wasnít there or on the Packing List). ALSO MISSING is a female spade connector you will need for the ground wire in that rudder connection. There is a 4 pin connector needed for the 4 wires in the bundle and there is a separate blue ground wire in the fuse with that harness that has a spade connectors on it. Check yours and CALL MITCH.


    P1060564.jpg


    P1060563.jpg
    (These are the 5 wires coming out of the rudder. 4 with the pins go to the plastic connector housing and the other gets a female spade connector)

    The main landing lights have the white/blue wire going to the ground connector on the lights. Itís hard to find but the GND and POSITIVE terminals are written on the label above the terminals.

    FLYING WIRES

    I think the manual is good on this. I use a vice grip to hold the wire and then another vice grip (since I can't seem to find any size wrench that will fit the ends of the wire attach fittings). A black sharpie mark on the wire by the vice grip on it can help to let you know the wire isn't spinning when you adjust the connectors on the ends.


    P1060572.jpg


    Essentially, level the plane left to right (I just put a jack under 1 side of the landing gear and jack it up until level side to side) and then put the plumb bob on the top hinge of the rudder attach and let it hang down so it's close to the bottom hinge. A small ladder is usually about right height for the tail wheel.

    Adjust the bottom wires only on each side until each stabilizer is level then adjust the top wires only to get the plumb bob to hit dead center on the bottom rudder hinge. Then adjust the tension to 10 lbs at .44" deflection of the wire per the manual.

    NOTE: LOOK IN THE NEXT POST FOR MORE PHOTOS AND INFO ON THIS. THE FORUM ONLY LETS 12 PHOTOS PER POST SO I RAN OUT OF SPACE ON THIS ONE.

    RUDDER CABLE HOLES IN FUSELAGE

    Oh....how this makes you shudder! This is the 3rd time I've done it and it works great so just pay attention to the figure in the manual and here are some hints.

    First cut out the rectangular inspection panel in the bottom of the fuse and cut the tie wraps used to hold them in place during construction and bring them all out that bottom hole (both elevator and rudder cables).


    P1060574.jpg

    Measure from the far, back side of the fuse just under the bottom rudder hinge and place a mark 26" forward. I use a sharpie (it removes easily as you know with denatured alcohol). Measure UP from the bottom of the fuse tube 3.80" and put a mark across your 26" mark. You will noticed this should be within the oval shaped patch you put on the fabric.


    P1060575.jpg


    P1060576.jpg

    This cross mark (26" forward and 3.8" up) is the top, forward point of the area we are going to open.....BUT.....we aren't going to do it all right off the bat!

    The figure calls for the total front to aft cut/burn area to be opened as 1.75" but we will only open 1" to start with. The connector on the aft end of the rudder cables are just under 1" in width, so we need to cut an initial hole about 1" wide.

    So, from that front cross mark, measure aft 1.75" and place another mark and then again, measure 3.8" up from the bottom of the fuse tube there and this gives you a 2nd X mark. Draw a line from the front cross to the rear mark. This represents the top of the 1.75" opening.

    Now, mark the center of this line which will be about 0.875" (or just "eyeball" the mid-point). Then mark a 1/2" either side of this center mark. This will now give us a 1" cut/burn line in the center of the 1.75" area we will eventually open up if needed.


    P1060578.jpg

    Now take your hot soldering iron and using only the small TIP, burn a small width hole BELOW and along this 1" line. The line is the top.


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    Go inside your inspection opening at the bottom and take a flashlight and be sure your rudder cables are not tangled and are straight out of that back fairlead and then push the metal connector ends through this 1" hole.


    P1060580.jpg

    We will later attach this to the rudder and only then will we see which side of the hole we burned the cable hits and then we will just gradually open that slit up in whichever direction we need to until the cable is straight through and not hitting.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-10-2019 at 05:44 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  6. #106
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    FLYING WIRES (Cont.)

    Only 1 of the top wires needs to be tensioned because they are all tensioned together. ........ get 2 of the top wires right and they will all 4 be the same. I took a long level and used it as a straight edge and taped it to the connectors where it bolted into the stabilizers. I shimmed 1 end to make it equal distance from the wire on both ends.


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    Then I clamped on a little ruler (It could be anything straight) perpendicular to the level going out under the CENTER of the flying wire and marked the wire location on it with it in its current (untensioned) position and then put a mark .44" out from that mark.


    P1060583.jpg


    You can then take your scale and, just like we did with the drag wires in the wing, pull at the center mark of the wire and we want 10 lbs pull when the wire gets to that .44" mark. You can take the other wire and adjust it to increase or decrease the tension until it's right. You will need to adjust each wire the same amount to keep the level you have already set. Remember to hold the wire from turning while you adjust BOTH ENDS of each wire. Hold the wire still while you turn 1 end in one direction and the other end the same amount so that you aren't changing the level but only the tension. So if you turn the ends connectors say 1/2 turn on each end on the left wire, do the same on the right wire.


    P1060585.jpg

    ELEVATORS


    Well, this is probably my least favorite thing to do. Iíve got it worked out I think about the best I can but still a bit difficult due to the tight working conditions. If anyone elseís finds or knows of a better way......Iím all ears. Thanks to Pete, see a couple of posts after this and see his idea of using allen wrenches and/or dental type "picks". I've updated the thread here to reflect that.

    First I vary from the manual here a bit. You do need to use a long 1/4Ē drill bit (very long) and ream out the paint, etc. from the elevator and rudder hinges on them and on the hinge points on the stabilizers to be sure the pins will g through. Harbor Freight sells a 3 pack of these long bits for almost free.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-...-pc-68822.html

    A couple sets of long hemostats also come in very handy here. I really donít know how you could do it without them. This is a curved one and they have straight ones too that are also almost free.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/10-1-2...amp-65711.html



    P1060594.jpg

    The 2 attach cables you should have hanging down the bottom fuse inspection opening. Attach the barrel connectors and fork ends onto the cables per the drawing noting that the long one goes on the bottom attach fitting on the elevators and the short one on top. If you followed the fuse build, I already had these attached and labeled UP and DOWN when I built the fuse so i donít have to track which cable is which now. Note I drew on the figure that the bottom cable is connected to the FRONT STICK and the top one to the BACK STICK. Later, when we are adjusting them, this will help you tighten or loosen the correct ones to move the stick positions to clear the seats and torque tubes, etc.


    P1060573.jpg

    One thing to do now while you can see these fitting good is to mark which side of the fork ends have the v-notch in them. Look at each end of the fork end attachments that go into each barrel connector and you will see that 1 side has a notch cut down into it and if you also notice.....the barrel connectors also have a notch cut into them and a ĎVĒ notch cut in the edge where it goes into the connector. After we get them installed and tensioned to the proper tension, we have to install some clip wires into these fittings and no room to look and see which side of the fork screws have the notch, so take a sharpie now and mark the end of the fork end on the side that has the notch cut into the screw side so you can line it up with the v notch in the barrel connector.


    P1060590.jpg

    Ream out any paint in the 3 holes in the elevators where they join in the center and also the edges of the 2 holes where the fork ends of the cables will have to slide over the elevators to get over the holes.

    Pull the parts (hinge pins, washers, bolt/nut through elevators where they meet; screw/nut/washer to attached cables to elevators) and grease the pins with 1 416 washer on. Take the elevators and get the center part into the fuse area and then just slide 1 pin into the outer hinge point and only far enough to just hold it in place. If you have a small table or sawhorse or something the right height, you could just set it on that instead and it would be even easier. You DO NOT want to install the hinge pins like shown in the manual now. Donít do that until the spring and cables have been connected.


    P1060588.jpg

    Joint the elevators together in the center by putting the short bolt through them and loosely put on the nut. Donít tighten it yet. Find the cable with the big spring on the end that we taped somewhere there at the aft end of the fuse. The round, side inspection hole under the left stabilizer is a good place to reach up and find it and to try and get it up to the very top where you can grab it with some long hemostats. It will attach to the very top hole in the elevators where they join.


    P1060587.jpg

    The hemostats are good to just lock onto the end of the spring and hold it until you can get all situated. Take a piece of safety wire or string and attach to the end of the spring somewhere to hang onto when it slips out of your pliers and falls back down into the fuse.

    Be sure ad take a flashlight and shine it up into the use and be sure the cable is not wrapped around anything and in coming straight back from the very top of the trim motor area. Then you can now move the elevators up, down, back and forth to have better access to try and get the end of the spring into that top hole. A good pair of straight pliers works best. You can see here that if you had attached the hinge pins into the elevators that it would be pretty much impossible.


    P1060593.jpg

    After the spring is installed then we will do the same thing with the cables. Be sure the ends of the fork ends that thread into the barrel connectors are just a thread or 2 into the connectors so they are as long as possible. Get those fork ends up to right areas in the back using the bottom and side inspection holes. Take a flashlight and look good and be sure the cables are not tangled and run straight back. Also be sure the end of the cable where it joins the connectors screw is not kinked up. The cable going to the bottom of the elevator should have the long barrel connector and should be coming from the bottom of the fuse and the one going to the top has the shorter barrel connector and is coming through the fuse by the vertical, slanted fuse tube that is just under the trim motor.

    Do the same as you did with the spring and grab the ends of the connector and BE SURE THE FORK END THAT YOU ATTACH TO THE ELEVATORS HAS THE NOTCH UP. Tie your piece of safety wire or string to the ends once you get them into place so you can pull them back up if they fall. Work it into position and then use an awl to first line up the holes in the fork end and through both elevators and loosely install the washer and nut. Do this for both cable ends.

    Once you have them installed, you can tighten the nuts, install cotter pins and the 4 hinge pins, etc.

    Next is a little tough. Looking forward from the aft end (as you are sitting behind the plane and looking towards the fittings) you need to reach in and grab the back fork end where it goes into the barrel connector and clamp a hemostats on it just to keep it from spinning as we turn the barrel connector.


    P1060604.jpg
    (These hemostats are going up to the top, forward end of the barrel connector screw that is attached to the end of the cable. It holds it there in place so it can't turn while you adjust the tension on the barrel connector.)

    Then take an allen wrench of one of these dental pick tools (at Harbor Freight for almost free) and put it into the center hole of the barrel connector and then turn the connector TO THE LEFT, or counterclockwise.....to tighten the barrel connectors as much as you can to take up the slack. Hopefully you can see the mark on your forks on the cable end to show you which side has the v notch and keep it upwards. Not a big deal now but when done, we need that side to be up so might as well as clamp it correctly now.


    P1060600.jpg
    (In this photo, the hemostats are coming up from below and clamped onto the front/forward screw in connector to keep it from turning while the barrel is adjusted. The dental pick shown here with the curved or hooked end is in the center hole of the barrel connector and used to turn it)

    Once they get hard to turn, you can take a pair of vice grips and grap the allen wrench or pick to hold tight while continue to adjust the connector. As we tighten it weíll start to check the tension in the belly pan area under the seat. Take a look in the cockpit as well and with your front and rear sticks installed, check to be sure your rear stick isnít hitting the rear seat in the full at position and that the front stick cable connections arenít hitting either the front or rear areas by the torque tube and cable cover or the instrument panel.

    The manual explains that tightening the top connector and loosening the bottom will move the stick forward. You check the tension with your gauge under the seat to 60 lbs. +/- 2 lbs.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-10-2019 at 03:59 PM.
    Dave Embry
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    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  7. #107
    Senior Member Pete D's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Quote Originally Posted by Daveembry View Post




    Well, this is probably my least favorite thing to do. Iíve got it worked out I think about the best I can but still a bit difficult due to the tight working conditions. If anyone elseís finds or knows of a better way......Iím all ears.

    A couple of extra tips you might try next time.

    I like to put a piece of safety wire or rib stitch cord through the loop in the spring then loosely back and around the tail post. That way if you drop it while working on it you don't have to go fishing, just lift it back out. Same thing works for the cables, you can tie something around the narrow part of the fork between the threaded portion and the bottom of the fork. One for each cable and the spring, cut it loose as each one is secured.

    Once things are hooked up, instead of trying to grab onto the turnbuckle barrels I use a couple of Allen wrenches, sized to fit in the hole in the middle of the turn buckle barrel. Clamp one into a pair of vice grips, making it longer and giving more leaverage. One can be used to hook into the loop of the cable on the forward end, the other can be used in the hole in the turnbuckle barrel to turn the barrel.

    Then, when it comes time to insert the turnbuckle safeties, I use the Allen wrench in the center hole again to very slightly turn the barrel back and forth while sliding the wire into the notches in the threads. It is pretty easy to feel right where it needs to be if you are rocking the barrel back and forth while gently pressing the safety clip in with a pair of needle nose pliers or hemostats.
    Pete Dougherty
    R & D Shop Manager
    Cub Crafters Inc

  8. #108
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    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    Hey Pete.....thanks for jumping in!!

    Great idea with the string on the ends of the parts. Several times the spring fell this time while trying to get the right angle on it with the pliers.

    I used your idea today of the allen wrench but didn't have any the right size at the hangar today so I used my dental pick thing with a hook on the end and it made it SUPER EASY! Thanks!


    P1060599.jpg


    P1060600.jpg


    Here is a photo of using the hemostats to grab the back cable end to hold it still so it can't turn. The allen wrench or "pick" works good too but with the hemostats, you don't have to use any hands.....just clamp it and leave it.

    P1060604.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete D View Post
    A couple of extra tips you might try next time.

    I like to put a piece of safety wire or rib stitch cord through the loop in the spring then loosely back and around the tail post. That way if you drop it while working on it you don't have to go fishing, just lift it back out. Same thing works for the cables, you can tie something around the narrow part of the fork between the threaded portion and the bottom of the fork. One for each cable and the spring, cut it loose as each one is secured.

    Once things are hooked up, instead of trying to grab onto the turnbuckle barrels I use a couple of Allen wrenches, sized to fit in the hole in the middle of the turn buckle barrel. Clamp one into a pair of vice grips, making it longer and giving more leaverage. One can be used to hook into the loop of the cable on the forward end, the other can be used in the hole in the turnbuckle barrel to turn the barrel.

    Then, when it comes time to insert the turnbuckle safeties, I use the Allen wrench in the center hole again to very slightly turn the barrel back and forth while sliding the wire into the notches in the threads. It is pretty easy to feel right where it needs to be if you are rocking the barrel back and forth while gently pressing the safety clip in with a pair of needle nose pliers or hemostats.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  9. #109
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broken Arrow, OK
    Posts
    505

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    ELEVATORS (Cont.)

    AFTER YOU HAVE ADJUSTED THE ELEVATOR MAXIMUM TRAVEL ANGLES........check the forward and rear sticks for clearances in the cockpit. The rear shouldn't touch the seat front.....


    P1060595.jpg


    The front should not touch the instrument panel....


    P1060596.jpg


    ....and should not have any of the cable connectors on the front cable touch the torque tube or the front cable housing.


    P1060598.jpg


    P1060597.jpg


    Here is the gauge I use to test the cable tension.


    P1060603.jpg

    To adjust the max travel on the elevators using the stop bolts we installed on the fuse back during the fuse build, put a straightedge (level in this case) across the elevator and stabilizer with the front stabilizer tube about 3-5/16" below the top of the fabric opening. (the manual is wrong....it says to measure this on the "elevator" tube and it should be the front of the "stabilizer" tube that goes moves with the trim motor). Put the straight edge so it goes across the stabilizer and then with your hand, just move the elevator back and forth until it's flush with the straight edge.


    P1060605.jpg

    I use the digital level and when the elevator is flush with the stabilizer, I just note the angle (I don't "zero" it) and then move the elevator up or down and see what the max travel is. You want a movement of 25 degrees up and 15 degrees down +/- 2 degrees. Just screw the adjustment bolt in or out until you get the stops at the right angles.


    RUDDER AND RUDDER CABLES

    The rudder can be installed after the elevator cable adjustments are all made.
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-12-2019 at 07:04 AM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

  10. #110
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broken Arrow, OK
    Posts
    505

    Default Re: Building the EX3 - Tips & Hints

    WINGS

    ahhhh. 2 friends made the mistake of showing up at my hangar today so I put them to work helping me install the wings.

    Following the manual with the "bullets" you made up......you will need 8 total of the 5/16" ones for the wings and struts; 4 for the 2 wing spar attachments on each side and 2 wing strut attachments on each side.

    You should have already reamed all the wing spar and strut attach fittings during the wing build and you sure BETTER HAVE REAMED THE STRUT ATTACH FITTING AT THE FUSE. If you didn't, good luck! There is no room to ream it now with the gear on below and the fabric above. Where the fork end of the struts will go onto the attach fitting at the fuse, you should not have had fabric over that but if you did, it will have to come off now as well as any paint. The fork end will be a very tight fit even then. I take a big punch and run it through the fork end (not the hole but the space itself) to pry the fork ends apart a little as they won't go on if you don't do that or sand/grind the metal at the attach fitting. It's just too thick. On my next build, I'm going to grind that down a bit before cover and paint to make it easier.

    A note here while we are talking about it, the manual calls for the hardware for this fitting but disregard the call for the washers because the nut will not tighten up enough to get the cotter pin in if you use ANY washers........If you put a washer under the head of the bolt as called for, you will be taking it back out. Washers are not needed on this fitting on top or bottom. The manual also doesn't have a callout for the cotter pin and they should be the AN380-3-3 ones which are installed after torquing the nut to 95 in lbs and then tightened to the next opening in the castle nut to get the cotter key in.

    On the EX3 struts, the strut to fuse attach fork ends are already installed as is the nut. Take a long screwdriver that will fit into the hole of fork and turn it out a good ways and screw the nut all the way down to where it touches the fork end then place a sharpie mark on one of the flats (side) of the nut so you can count the turns easily. Turn the nut 6 full turns inwards towards the strut for the forward struts and 12 turns for the rear ones, then use your long screwdriver and turn the fork end back in until the nut just touches the strut. This gives you 6 full turns front and 12 rear, which is what should get you to a good starting point to set the dihedral correct.

    When you stretch the string line along the spar on the wing you should have 3Ē from the spar top to the string at the inboard end of each wing spar.


    P1060609.jpg
    (This is the right wing where it attaches to the fuse. The ruler is resting on the top of the spar and the stringline is stretching from wingtip to wingtop, right over the spar (just a 1/2" or so aft of the line of rivets).

    I think each plane is different so you may have to adjust each spar until you have the 3Ē at that point and you get the 3/8Ē drop for the washout on each wingtip. You can have a maximum of 15 threads exposed on each strut (not counting the nut).


    P1060607.jpg
    (This is the right wing so there are 6 threads exposed on the front and 11 on the rear. Note the paint I had to scrape off and also note there is no washer under the bolt head or on the bottom.)

    On this plane I ended up with 6 turns on both front struts and 11 on the right and 13 on the left rear struts. This is different from my last one and different from the ones Mitch just checked on the factory floor......so apparently for whatever reason.....it varies from plane to plane.

    I just used a long level and marked 30Ē on it and then taped on one of the 3/8Ē ďbulletsĒ I had and that works fine for measuring. No need to make a special attachment that I can see.


    P1060606.jpg

    JURY STRUT I-BOLTS


    The manual is still for the EX2 so has some changes and doesn't tell you some of the part numbers.

    - SC37303-003 are the REAR strut I-bolts
    - SK37303-001 are the FRONT ones
    - SK37104-001 Are the "wedge" washers. There are installed on the TOP and BOTTOM of the front strut I-bolts with the thick side of the washer facing AFT. These are used because you will notice there is no flat spot on the spar (it's rounded) so this levels the surface contact area.

    BOLTS & NUTS FOR WINGS & STRUTS

    The manual is a little jumbled here in regards to the right bolts and nuts, etc as there are no Figures so I like to get it all together at 1 time. Here it is:

    Strut Attach at Fuse:
    - TC1909-001
    - AN320-6 Castle Nut
    - AN380-3-3 Cotter Pin
    - NO WASHERS USED AS THE MANUAL SAYS!
    TORQUE TO 95 IN LBS AND THEN TURN TO NEXT OPENING FOR THE COTTER PIN

    Forward Strut at Wing
    - Slide AN960-516L between strut and wing attach
    - Use SC30300-001 Tie Down Fitting
    - AN5-36A Bolt with AN960-516L washer under the head
    - AN365-524A with washer as required under nut.
    TORQUE TO 160 In lbs

    Rear Strut at Wing
    - AN960-516 or 516L between strut and wing attach if needed.
    - AN5-20A Bolt with AN960-516 washer under the head.
    - AN365-524A with AN960-516 washer under the nut.
    TORQUE TO 160 In lbs

    Front Spar Attach at Fuse
    - SC10210-001 Lift Ring
    - Use AN960-516 or 516L between
    - AN5-15A bolt with no washer under head
    - AN364-524A (no washer used if using the lifting loop)
    TORQUE TO 145 In Lbs

    Rear Spar Attach at Fuse
    - AN5-15A Bolt with AN960-516 Washer under head
    - AN960-516 between spar hinge block (this is between the actual spar attach fitting coming out of the wing)
    - Use 1 each of AN960-516 and a 516L between the back hinge block on the spar and the aft wing mount.
    - AN365-524A with AN960-516 washer under the nut.
    TORQUE TO 160 In Lbs
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-16-2019 at 02:35 PM.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.....
    ..but if you do it right.....
    ....once is enough."..

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