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Thread: Fuel fitting nut torque?

  1. #11
    Senior Member Dan L's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel fitting nut torque?

    I made a tool to change to O-rings in the fuel selector that I thought other owners might be interested in. It made sliding the rotating part of the valve that holds the O-rings and springs and balls a simple job without parts flinging around the inside of the CC. 😀

    35958649-2F5C-4539-AD91-33CE5C4131F1.jpg

    23969DED-9664-4C05-B590-B6A07B7FAFAD.jpg

    F00BB1B2-E344-4B6D-A2FD-EC7B3B6DEC3D.jpg


    I still loaded the balls and springs inside of the plastic bag just in case. The back side of the tool is opened to 1” diameter to slide over the OD of the housing on the valve and keep things aligned. The ID of the part holding the cartridge is .812”. The long #8 screw is used as a handle. A little EZ Turn on the O-rings and it is leak-free again.

    i think I’ll change these out every two years regardless of condition.
    Flying Carbon Cub EX #11 since 2011

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Fuel fitting nut torque?

    Dan. I guess I have the same problem. Saw a little “blue” on the outside by the bottom left stringer under the fuel valve. Just a dot. Checked it out and sure enough, a little blue fuel on the fabric spacer behind the fuel valve. It’s not leaking much at all. Just a few drops and not all the time. Maybe only a few drops just when I move the valve to switch tanks??

    Mitch is sending me some new ORings so guess I’ll be doing this as well. Doesn’t sound too difficult and can do it without removing the valve I guess.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan L View Post
    I made a tool to change to O-rings in the fuel selector that I thought other owners might be interested in. It made sliding the rotating part of the valve that holds the O-rings and springs and balls a simple job without parts flinging around the inside of the CC. 😀

    35958649-2F5C-4539-AD91-33CE5C4131F1.jpg

    23969DED-9664-4C05-B590-B6A07B7FAFAD.jpg

    F00BB1B2-E344-4B6D-A2FD-EC7B3B6DEC3D.jpg


    I still loaded the balls and springs inside of the plastic bag just in case. The back side of the tool is opened to 1” diameter to slide over the OD of the housing on the valve and keep things aligned. The ID of the part holding the cartridge is .812”. The long #8 screw is used as a handle. A little EZ Turn on the O-rings and it is leak-free again.

    i think I’ll change these out every two years regardless of condition.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Fuel fitting nut torque?

    Exact same thing here but Mitch said it can be done without removing?? No??

    Quote Originally Posted by ceslaw View Post
    Had the same issue with the selector valve leak. Mitch sent me a new one. It leaked too. Next he sent a set of replacement O rings. When I swapped them out noticed something odd. The new factory valves had slightly thinner O rings. Put the thicker replacement ones in and that leak stopped.

    I often wondered if anyone else would have the same problem, since it seemed like there must have been a batch sent out with the wrong O rings. You have answered that question.

    the leak was slight and the fuel typically evaporated but enough found its way down to cause a slight thin blue tint on the fabric near the forward gear fastening point, barely visible

    The good news is that changing the O rings is an easy task. The bad news is you have to remove the valve to do it.

    Chuck
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

  4. #14
    Senior Member Dan L's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel fitting nut torque?

    That’s correct; you do not remove the valve from the plane. Just remove the cover over the valve and it is accessible. The guts of the valve pull out towards you and the valve body stays in place with the fuel lines attached.

    You do do need to drain the tanks first. Be careful of static buildup. Minimal drop into your container is best and bond it to the airframe if possible.
    Flying Carbon Cub EX #11 since 2011

  5. #15
    Senior Member Dan L's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel fitting nut torque?

    Looking back at my pictures I see that I had the entire side panel removed at that time but it was not necessary for this particular job.
    Flying Carbon Cub EX #11 since 2011

  6. #16
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    Default Re: Fuel fitting nut torque?

    Dan, Did you mean to say here that you do “NOT” need to drain the fuel from the tanks or you DO DO need to?

    Mitch said to turn the handle so that it isn’t in any of the detention positions and that keeps everything from flying it when you pull it out. I guess the fuel still won’t flow if you do it like this?

    So do you just take the snap ring off and then pull the center out and then what....balls and springs fly everywhere? Haha?

    I think I can see your drawing there pretty good. Where did that come from?

    Thanks.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dan L View Post
    That’s correct; you do not remove the valve from the plane. Just remove the cover over the valve and it is accessible. The guts of the valve pull out towards you and the valve body stays in place with the fuel lines attached.

    You do do need to drain the tanks first. Be careful of static buildup. Minimal drop into your container is best and bond it to the airframe if possible.
    Dave Embry
    "You only live once.......but if you do it right.........once is enough."..

  7. #17
    Senior Member Dan L's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fuel fitting nut torque?

    Silly iPad likes to throw in extra words. I meant to say you DO need to drain the tanks.

    The tool I made keeps balls and springs from going everywhere. Without it, a clear plastic bag will help contain them. But they’re going to launch themselves when released from the valve body. And some residual fuel will now flow. If the tanks aren’t drained you’ll have a real disaster at this point. All the fuel in the tanks will now fill your cabin.

    I got the drawing from the parts department when I ordered the o-rings. They may have emailed it to me. I don’t remember now.

    Yes, pop off the snap ring and then pull the center section straight out. The long screw helps with this.
    Last edited by Dan L; 06-30-2018 at 04:47 AM. Reason: Used an ipad
    Flying Carbon Cub EX #11 since 2011

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