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Thread: Ignition Sensor Installation

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Broken Arrow, OK

    Default Ignition Sensor Installation

    Today I was working on installing my engine ignition sensors behind the flywheel. When I spoke with Mitch, he said I was going to hate him today as this next step was hard. So I went out and found a $7.99 tool that made it pretty easy because I like Mitch and didn't want to be cussing him all day.

    I'm installing the G3X so some of the info needed isn't in the FWF manual.

    1. There are 2 sensors to be installed behind the flywheel on brackets that are already installed on the engine block. Each ignition box has 1 sensor coming out (a square, metal box about 1" square). The RIGHT one goes on the BOTTOM of the engine and the LEFT goes on the TOP. Be sure and label each one before pushing through the firewall.

    2. These sensors mount in the brackets with 2 small allen head screws that take a 7/64" wrench. You can see from the photo on page 46 (Photo 044) how they are positioned in the brackets. They need to be adjusted so they are between .030 and .060 from the magnet plate which you can see is already mounted on the inside of the flywheel. Getting it to those tolerances is where the cussing starts.

    Ignition Sensors 9.jpg

    3. To install them you need to remove the flywheel from the engine. Hopefully you saved the 2 bolts, washers and piece of PVC that came on it when you removed the engine from the crate it shipped it. When reinstalling the flywheel, you have to line it up correctly on the correct hole. The way you tell is that there is a "0" stamped on the outside above one of the holes. That hole has to go on the LARGER stud/bolt hole in the engine. If you look at the engine plate where the bolts go into, you will see that one of them is larger at the rear (closest to the engine). THAT is the hole you place the "0" hole onto. See photos.

    Ignition Sensors 2.jpgIgnition Sensors 3.jpgIgnition Sensors.jpg

    4. After loosely installing the 2 screws into each sensor/bracket, install the flywheel correctly and snug up the 2 bolts/pvc onto the outside of the flywheel to be sure it up tight against the engine. Now we need to set the correct distance between that magnetic plate inside the flywheel and the sensor.

    5. I removed the .032 gauge from the kit of feeler gauges since this is where Mitch recommended setting it at on the new engine. I then bent the gauge at about a 45 degree angle and got a pair of hemostats to hold it with.

    Ignition Sensors 6.jpgIgnition Sensors 10.jpg

    On the top sensor you don't need the hemostat pliers, you can just hold it with your hand. Slip the .032 feeler gauge in behind the sensor and the magnetic plate and then just slide the sensor over until it touches it. Then while holding it in place against the feeler gauge, you need to snug up the screws to hold it in place. You don't have to get it really tight at this point, you can do that easier after you remove the flywheel. The problem is getting an allen wrench into that screw head! This is where I went and got a flexible extension shaft kit with the 7/64" tool in it. I just happen to find one from Pittsburgh tools for $7.99! With the flexible shaft, you can work it around and into the sensor and snug up the 2 screws.

    Ignition Sensors 4.jpgIgnition Sensors 5.jpgIgnition Sensors 7.jpg

    For the bottom sensor, you will need the hemostat pliers to hold onto the feeler gauge to slip it behind the sensor and then snug up those screws.

    6. Double or triple check the gap using the feeler gauges for both sensors and if all is good, remove the flywheel and then just use a regular allen wrench to tighten up the 4 screws.

    Ignition Sensors 8.jpg

    Also, just today Mitch made a new video and posted it in Dropbox and it's how to rig the cable from the ignition boxes to the coils. The link is here
    Last edited by Daveembry; 01-13-2017 at 02:43 PM. Reason: Added photo

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