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Thread: Stewarts Systems

  1. #11
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    Quote Originally Posted by fancypants View Post
    Any chance you can weigh the finished wing? A complete Super Cub covered with Stewarts is purported to save 20-30 lbs. over other common processes, but I've not seen any data to back it up. There are probably too many variables involved to fairly compare one person's painted wing to another's.
    That is a great idea. I will plan to do so. Maybe I can even weigh a wing before I start the process to see how much weight it added. Think I will take this wing right through to colour before starting the other.

  2. #12
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems



    Shot the prime coat on. It is just enough to cover the grey...no more. Did a light tack coat then a tight overlap coat minutes after the tack coat.

    The booth is working really well too.


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  3. #13
    Senior Member Dan L's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    Quote Originally Posted by TroyBranch View Post
    That is a great idea. I will plan to do so. Maybe I can even weigh a wing before I start the process to see how much weight it added. Think I will take this wing right through to colour before starting the other.
    I weighed my right wing after covering and spraying with Poly Tone. And this is with the long-range fuel tanks. from my notes when I weighed it:

    weighed right wing at 66 pounds, unpainted flap at 4.6, unpainted aileron at 6.2, flap lever rod at 1.0 = 76.8 will gain a little with paint on flap & aileron
    Flying Carbon Cub EX #11 since 2011

  4. #14
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    Should be a pretty good comparison. Not sure what the EX2 wing weight difference is but I will plan to weigh it before cover too.


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  5. #15
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems




    This is the white primer. All powder coated parts get taped off. Once you spray all the eco-fill, you remove the tapes for this primer. Scuff powder with scotch brite like any other primer.


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  6. #16
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems



    3 of the 5 emp parts are ready for colour. They should be all ready for colour mid week, after that it is the same steps for everything else. These just need a light sanding, tack rag cleaned and then alcohol wipe with a follow up tack rag.


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  7. #17
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Stewarts Systems




    Shot the top coat on tonight. The first pic is the tack coat. You shoot a fog coat until full colour saturation. The paint should look like a fine sand paper. No worry about runs. Easy to get all the nooks and crannies. About 15 min later you shoot the final coat. About a half turn more open in the paint flow. Easy to spray and good results. Oh....and next to no smell!


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    Last edited by TroyBranch; 11-17-2015 at 09:06 PM.

  8. #18
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    Do you have any idea of the cost difference using Stewart's vs what CC recommends using?

    Brad Keener

  9. #19
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    I figure $1000 will get you the glue right through to the white primer I did. Paint is 250 to 320 per gallon. CC did not give me a credit on the poly fiber as they forgot. I was told it would be $1000. So no difference. Less if you don't use the white primer.


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  10. #20
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    Figured I would give an update on the paint as I was asked to talk about the good and the bad if any. One of the things I noticed on the few Emp parts I shot had some fish eyes and craters. It was a 2ft paint job and I was not happy with it. I had zero trouble before and I needed to get to the bottom of it. I still had one wing to cover and prep to top coat and the fuse to cover so I was not in a rush. I talked to the factory for suggestions and all questions was answered with the right answers. We were stumped. I upgraded my air supply just to make sure it was not that even though it was no trouble before. Same issue with the cub yellow. I shot some black and it was fine. I sent the yellow back to the factory and they had the same issue. I decided to get a pint of red sent to me and try it. It shot perfect so the decision was made to change the color to red. I love red, every plane I owned has had red. I tried to change but it was not meant to be.

    So new gallons of red got sent and I shot the flaps in red. The problem came back. We learned that the manufacturer of the pint cans was different than the quart and gallons. That was really hard to believe that a water borne compatible can could create this issue. The factory tried the red and it was fine there but they hadn't put it in a gallon can. I then when to an automotive spray booth with my red to rule out all my system....same issue there. It had to be the can. The factory placed the paint in the can for a couple of days and sure enough, the cans was contaminating the paint. I was so glad to know it was not my system and we could move forward. I was dreading spraying a top coat with "stinky stuff" and totally stinking up my garage. My wife and I love the no smell from this paint.

    So I had great communication with SS the entire time even though it was very frustrating trying to get to the bottom of it. I am leaving the flaps as they are for now. They are a 2ft paint job and I know some people are happy with a 6ft paint job but I am not. I want to do the best I can even though it will not be perfect. They will be something to talk about around the campfire in the back country! I could have just accepted what I had, but I stuck to my guns and took nothing less than perfect. Glad I did.

    One good thing about it is that I got lots of gun time on scrap parts, I have real confidence every time I spray.

    A few tips to make sure you get the best results.

    Cool dry air- I have a 50ft coil of copper line going through a barrel of water after the pump before going into the tank
    Clean air- Water trap, particle and desiccant. I also have a charcoal that I do not think is needed.
    Always sand the parts a good as possible with 320 paper. Red scotch needs to be used over the rivets and such but the paper will get you the best finish.
    Wipe and blow all the dust off before tack ragging.
    Use 91% alcohol on a low lint towel lightly sprayed on from a spray bottle and wipe down prior to tack raging.
    Tack rag 3 times. You can never tack rag enough and you should do the last one right before you shoot with the fan running and you are ready to spray.

    I have found that it is best to just pull the tapes after it is dry. They say while wet but it is almost impossible to not get a string free line. The wet gives a smoother edge but the dry pull ensures better results even though there is an edge.

    Every thing is covered, boot cowl is done, panel was fitted and drilled. Only paint left and I am rolling on that now with many parts done.......but in red
    side.jpgIMG_8686.jpgIMG_8689.jpgIMG_8700.jpgtop.jpg
    Last edited by TroyBranch; 03-03-2016 at 08:25 AM.

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