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Thread: Stewarts Systems

  1. #21
    Senior Member stede52's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    Great update Troy, can't wait to see that paint job.
    Steve Dentz
    N419LD
    Carnation, WA

  2. #22
    Senior Member Cubrath's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    Looks Awesome Troy! You are convincing me, might have to try Stewarts!

    I would like to see pictures of your spray setup. You run the copper loop before the tank? Do you have a separate pressure tank? I'm always learning!!

    Mike

  3. #23
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    Here is a shot of my set up. 1/2 copper line through the water, from pump to the tank. Then 1/2 hose about 50ft to the filters. Then 3/8 line after that to the gun. I am using the Sata 4000b with digital pressure gauge and 1.3 tip. Cool air filters better than warm air and cool air will not condense at the tip of the paint gun which could lead to issues. It is amazing how hot the air out of the pump gets. My compressor is just enough. I should have gotten a higher cfm. Live and learn. 15cfm plus at 90PSI would be my new minimum. This one is 12.

    IMG_7959.jpgIMG_8436.jpg

  4. #24
    Senior Member Cubrath's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    Nice! Never thought about colling the air right out of the pump. Do you have a way to drain the condensed water out of the copper coil?

    I have about 30' of copper from my compressor to my booth. Not water cooled but I thinking it takes a lot of heat and water out of the system before it gets to my filters. I do get moisture in my filter but it has never affected my paint. Probably would have to improve that if I switched to Stewart's. Sounds like it would not tolerate much moisture in the system.

  5. #25
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    The water blows out and into the tank. It seems to only have moisture when you first start the compressor and I just drain it out of the compressor tank. No more water than normal. I ran the pump with the copper line disconnected from the tank to see what comes out using a mirror. Only for the first 30 sec was there moisture and then dry clean air on the mirror. My water trap has hardly any water now since doing this. It is 50 ft from the compressor.

  6. #26
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    If you want to get the water out of your compressed air, Harbor Freight sells a refrigeration unit for about $150 (don't quote me on that, but i was amazed how inexpensive it was for what i got). I bought one for a prior project and it worked great.

  7. #27
    Member GreggG's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    Quote Originally Posted by TroyBranch View Post
    Figured I would give an update on the paint as I was asked to talk about the good and the bad if any. One of the things I noticed on the few Emp parts I shot had some fish eyes and craters. It was a 2ft paint job and I was not happy with it. I had zero trouble before and I needed to get to the bottom of it. I still had one wing to cover and prep to top coat and the fuse to cover so I was not in a rush. I talked to the factory for suggestions and all questions was answered with the right answers. We were stumped. I upgraded my air supply just to make sure it was not that even though it was no trouble before. Same issue with the cub yellow. I shot some black and it was fine. I sent the yellow back to the factory and they had the same issue. I decided to get a pint of red sent to me and try it. It shot perfect so the decision was made to change the color to red. I love red, every plane I owned has had red. I tried to change but it was not meant to be.

    So new gallons of red got sent and I shot the flaps in red. The problem came back. We learned that the manufacturer of the pint cans was different than the quart and gallons. That was really hard to believe that a water borne compatible can could create this issue. The factory tried the red and it was fine there but they hadn't put it in a gallon can. I then when to an automotive spray booth with my red to rule out all my system....same issue there. It had to be the can. The factory placed the paint in the can for a couple of days and sure enough, the cans was contaminating the paint. I was so glad to know it was not my system and we could move forward. I was dreading spraying a top coat with "stinky stuff" and totally stinking up my garage. My wife and I love the no smell from this paint.

    So I had great communication with SS the entire time even though it was very frustrating trying to get to the bottom of it. I am leaving the flaps as they are for now. They are a 2ft paint job and I know some people are happy with a 6ft paint job but I am not. I want to do the best I can even though it will not be perfect. They will be something to talk about around the campfire in the back country! I could have just accepted what I had, but I stuck to my guns and took nothing less than perfect. Glad I did.

    One good thing about it is that I got lots of gun time on scrap parts, I have real confidence every time I spray.

    A few tips to make sure you get the best results.

    Cool dry air- I have a 50ft coil of copper line going through a barrel of water after the pump before going into the tank
    Clean air- Water trap, particle and desiccant. I also have a charcoal that I do not think is needed.
    Always sand the parts a good as possible with 320 paper. Red scotch needs to be used over the rivets and such but the paper will get you the best finish.
    Wipe and blow all the dust off before tack ragging.
    Use 91% alcohol on a low lint towel lightly sprayed on from a spray bottle and wipe down prior to tack raging.
    Tack rag 3 times. You can never tack rag enough and you should do the last one right before you shoot with the fan running and you are ready to spray.

    I have found that it is best to just pull the tapes after it is dry. They say while wet but it is almost impossible to not get a string free line. The wet gives a smoother edge but the dry pull ensures better results even though there is an edge.

    Every thing is covered, boot cowl is done, panel was fitted and drilled. Only paint left and I am rolling on that now with many parts done.......but in red
    Attachment 4969Attachment 4970Attachment 4971Attachment 4972Attachment 4973
    Looks great Troy. I think I might be doing Stewart's too as I have young kids in the house. Where did you get your scheme done?

    Gregg
    Carbon Cub EX CCK-1865-0092

  8. #28
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Stewarts Systems

    I did it myself. Used AutoCAD and ms paint.

    Tack coat is down. Shooting the top coat in 15m.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by TroyBranch; 03-07-2016 at 07:33 PM.

  9. #29
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Stewarts Systems

    Quote Originally Posted by GreggG View Post
    Looks great Troy. I think I might be doing Stewart's too as I have young kids in the house. Where did you get your scheme done?

    Gregg
    Yes I have young kids too. You never know when they will just run out into the garage. Within an hour of spraying there is hardly any paint smell. The paint filters collect all the over spray and I even spray with my wife's car in the garage. The primer dust gets through a bit, but it is dry and wipes off. During the covering there is not much of any smell from the glue and works so well.

    I have a friend that has only used poly fiber, worked with it for years. He walked into the shop where he use to work and could not believe the wall of "stink". You just don't notice it when you use it all the time. He is happily changing to Stewarts.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #30
    Senior Member TroyBranch's Avatar
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    Default Re: Stewarts Systems

    Last nights results. Rest of the paint is in shipping, should be able to continue by weeks end.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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