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Thread: Guidelines For Window Position In Flight, When To Latch When Not To

  1. #21
    Senior Member JohnM's Avatar
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    Default Re: Guidelines For Window Position In Flight, When To Latch When Not To

    Quote Originally Posted by randylervold View Post
    Yes, the newer windows are removable with a few screws, we were working on a pin system to make it easier but I don't know if we have that complete yet. There should be no limitations with them removed however you might consider removing just one first.
    Is CubCrafters then using a different method of attaching the rear windows? With both front windows opened/removed, the internal pressures on the rear windows change tremendously.

    JM
    John Moreland
    SWT Aviation
    CubCrafters Southeast Sales Center
    Central Florida

  2. #22
    Senior Member Clay Hammond's Avatar
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    Default Re: Guidelines For Window Position In Flight, When To Latch When Not To

    The nuts are not attached to the airframe. You will want to drop the wing root fairing and reach up around the window to put a wrench on the nut. Not difficult.

    Quote Originally Posted by BarryP View Post
    I have a 2009 Sport Cub. I assume that the nuts for the three fasteners on each window hinge are captured in the window frame (i.e. they will still be there when I want to put the window back on)?
    Thanks

  3. #23
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    Default Re: Guidelines For Window Position In Flight, When To Latch When Not To

    Quote Originally Posted by Clay Hammond View Post
    The nuts are not attached to the airframe. You will want to drop the wing root fairing and reach up around the window to put a wrench on the nut. Not difficult.
    Thanks Clay
    Sounds like too much trouble.
    I'll try it and see.
    Probably easier to leave window attached and stay in the flap arc.
    Bill

  4. #24
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    Default Re: Guidelines For Window Position In Flight, When To Latch When Not To

    The beauty of a Cub type airplane is the open door. I have over 3300 hrs of Cub time and I'll bet that 2800 is with the door open. 120 mph loops door open, rudder to the floor right slips door open. Even 50+ hours on skis with door open. My Pa11 had the latch where Piper put it in the center area of the door when open. I put 1800hr on it and never had a upper window problem. Then when it got restored I saw a CC latch and bought one and moved the latch to the front spar leading edge skin location like CC does. The old location and the door was happy at any speed and power setting. In the new location the upper window had an oscilation while flying and about 50hrs later the rear hinge broke over the bonnies of northern New Hampshire one day going to Maine. I had to fly holding on to the back of the bucking window for 20 min till I could land, couldn't get it closed till on the ground. Fixed it with some zip ties and flew with it closed till I got home a few days later.
    I studied and played around with different latches. It's the new forward location that makes the door jump around when under power. A simple fix to stabilize the door flex while flying is to add a bumper under the wing for the rear of the upper window to rest on while flying. it puts a slight pressure on the open window and stops the movement from the prop blast.
    The bumpers were from Lowes/Homedepot? They are a bumper you stick on the wall in your house where the door knob bangs into you sheetrock wall. About 1 oz. They are a soft plastic air filled dome, about 3" in diameter. Peal and stick bottom and I painted it to match with the Krylon plastic paint.

    This is the closest pix I could find on the web.



    Glenn

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